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The left-hand leaning arete above Simpering Savage. From halfway up the corner bridge onto the arete and follow this to the top, taking in as many ridiculously thin moves as possible along the way. [1]

References

[1] https://www.geocities.ws/readza1/climbing/gritlist/grit_lgp.html

References

[1] https://www.geocities.ws/readza1/climbing/gritlist/grit_e9.html

References

[1] https://www.geocities.ws/readza1/climbing/gritlist/grit_e9.html

A route with history. Originally climbed by John Dunne who thought the gear behind the flake wouldn't hold a fall. Seb Grieve eventually broke the spell 8 years after the first ascent by making the second ascent and taking some memorable falls in the process, with the route slowly gaining a reputation for being relatively safe. Seb's ascent was caught on film for Hard Grit with Niall Grimes memorably commenting

It held, that shipwreck of a flake actually held!

The route rapidly regained it's dangerous reputation when visiting Canadian Will Stanhope snapped the flake off while attempting the route ground up. Fortunately he escaped with just a broken ankle.

Plans to bolt the flake back on thankfully came to nothing.

The route was re-climbed by Ben Bransby at the very chunky grade of E10, featuring sport 8b climbing and significantly worse gear, though also with a side runner in the adjacent Brooks Crack which was placed higher than pre-break ascents. Repeats followed in the same style. James Pearson then improved further on the style by starting up Dynamics of Change, thus avoiding the use of side runners in Brooks Crack, and placing all gear on lead. By this point, a hold had broken on the lower part of the route, further increasing the physical difficulty.

Originally the route was written up with the name 'Partheon Shot' but this was a mis-spelling and the current spelling is correct. The name is based on an old cavalry tactic where a horse archer would turn and fire a shot while retreating, a reference by John to some in the Sheffield scene at the time who were critical of him. See wikipedia for details.

Unusually for grit the route is protected by 3 bolts...though the bolts are tiny, old aid bolts circa 1969. Pete Whittaker tested them in a fall, but probably best to avoid falling off if you can.

A route with a somewhat chequered history. Originally an aid route, persons unknown are reported to have climbed the line repeatedly with pegs with a view to enlarging the crack to the point it was free climbable. [1] Paul Mitchell then filled the scars with mortar to repeair the damage before John Allen removed the mortar in the hopes of free climbing it, though he was unsuccessful.

Sean Myles suggested E8 but after a repeat from Robin Barker around 1994 it then waited 20 years for another repeat from Tom Randall who suggested it was around 8b/+ protected by some RPs and dodgy pegs, with a bold start which suggests E9 is likely closer to the mark.

References

[1] Mountain Issue 141 (1991), page 10 https://climbing-history.org/library/11320/mountain-141

References

[1] https://www.geocities.ws/readza1/climbing/gritlist/grit_e9.html

References

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,23996.msg443082.html#msg443082

A hard direct start to Braille Trail which lands you on the 'rest' with no gear, meaning the precarious upper slab is unprotected. The name is from a geography module Pete Whittaker was studying in school at the time he made the first ascent.

Harder Faster is the harder, scarier direct finish to Gaia.

Seb Grieve:

Very wild climbing. After the 'easy' Gaia start, paste right foot high and layback. Repeat twice and arrive at ledge. Graunchy mantle that could easily go wrong. Top roped clean several times but could not bring myself to lead.

Climbed the week before leaving for a year long trip to Australia.

The prow at Black Rocks is one of the most impressive and uncompromising features on gritstone and for decades was regarded as a Last Great Problem. Attention in the late ‘80s and early ‘90s focused on the prow’s left arête, with climbing said to be around 8b.

Whilst top-roping Seb Grieve on the line, Quentin Fisher suggested trying to link to a line of better holds on the right arête. With a bit of beta refinement from Dave Jones, the line of Meshuga was unlocked and Seb made his ascent in 1997. It was perhaps the boldest route on gritstone at the time, comprising unpredictable 7c climbing, a long way above a terrible landing. The name comes from the Yiddish word for Insane. [1]

Despite its boldness, it has become one of the most repeated E9s.

The left arête remains unclimbed.

Not much gear until all the hard climbing is completed (though initial pocket may take a F1.5). Instead, protection would appear to take the form of several futon mattresses and a wandering clutch of Frenchmen lashed down to prevent them from running off. The landing is possibly the worst on gritstone although Neil Gresham miraculously only got concussion when he fell off the crux slap. One other thing to think about to savour the full atmosphere is that The Promontory is a historically popular suicide spot. [2]

References

[1] ‘Peak Rock’, Vertebrate Publishing, 2013.

[2] https://www.geocities.ws/readza1/climbing/gritlist/grit_e9.html

The line between Appointment with Fear and Appointment with Death.

Kinder's first E9.

One of the eight ‘last great problem’ projects listed in the Derwent Grit guide. [1]

Jerry Moffatt did all the moves, Johnny Dawes top roped it in a oner, Ron Fawcett was hovering, but it was Andy Pollitt who tied into the sharp end, jumped through the crux and wobbled through to the top – narrowly avoiding a disastrous fall when he slipped on the final sloping ledges.

The route was first climbed on the 2nd of March 1988 by Andy Pollitt and graded E9. The pre-clipped 'hand-held' peg used on the first ascent was later discovered to have actually been placed with a 'hand-held' hammer. [2]

The grade of a given ascent depends on the particular gear placements used. The first ascent and early repeats used a peg in a slot high on the left. Later repeats used a cam in a good slot at half height, that requires a traverse to access. Some people have combined the cam and the pegs, some people have used neither!

References

[1] The others were Dharma, Gaia, End of the Affair, Kaluza Klein, Soul Doubt, The Screaming Dream and The Groove.

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2010/10/ryan_pasquill_flashes_knockin_on_heavens_door-58563

Generally considered to be a little too close Knockin' on Heaven's Door to be an independent line but recorded here for posterity.

The intent was to climb Knockin' on Heaven's Door without the peg, instead doing a little traverse and placing a small cam.

The breakdown is approximately a morpho 7B+ jump to a crimp followed by a 7A/+ and then a spicy section to the top (including a cheeky english 6a rockover). [1]

References

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,31675.msg651828.html#msg651828

Originally climbed with no pads and a single ball nut for protection. James gave it E10, believing any fall would involve hitting the ground. Subsequent ascents tested the ball nut (above pads) and found it to be better than expected with the ball nut holding around 20 falls. Based on this, grades around E7 to E8 were suggested.

Due to the falls the quality of the placement deteriorated, with Jordan Buys ripping the gear in a fall from high on the route. It is not clear how reliable the placement currently is. [1]

Now usually climbed as a highball above a big pile of pads.

References

[1] https://johnroberts.me/outdoors/2011/11/the-promise-is-it-finally-the-end-of-the-affair/

Originally led but now typically done above a big pile of mats at about 7C+. On the first ascent Jerry Moffatt took a fairly direct line at the top, whereas people typically traverse round to the right before topping out when climbing the line above pads.

First ascent placed a large hex runner in the crak of Lean Man's Climb, up which the route started, at E7 7a. Subsequently soloed by Ben Heason with a slightly more direct start, eliminating the crack at E8.

Unlikely to have been repeated since the loss of pebbles around 2002/3.

John Dunne:

It is undoubtedly one of the best routes on grit, in terms of the line, the position and of course climbing. [1]

References

[1] Yorkshire Gritstone Volume 2, 2014. Page 63.

A left start to Marvellous, via a highball 'Welford 7C' dyno.

As for Cool Fool but eliminating the side-runners.

The route had previously been climbed in two parts: the bottom half as One Step Beyond Direct by Ron Fawcett, and the top as Homeward Bound by Peter Beal. Johnny combined the two to complete the natural line up the middle of the wall.

It masqueraded as an E7 for a decade or two, but the combination of sustained hard climbing and hard-to-place small gear led to an upgrade.

Relatively straightforward climbing to a 7C+ boulder problem with a wiggy fall.

The route lost a 'crucial' pebble in the late '90s and didn't see further ascents until 2008.

Direct start to Gecko Blaster. Seb Grieve subsequently stated that Gecko Blaster did start direct.

A classic Johnny Dawes test piece. A hard move gains entry to the groove where easier (but scarier!) climbing awaits before a terrifying finale.

Originally given E7, but in the words of the second ascenionist Neil Kershaw:

I'm no good with grades but lets just say its more E8 than E7. In fact its more E8 than most E8's. [1]

References

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg442742.html#msg442742

A longstanding enigma

Named after the American professional skateboarder Rodney Mullen.

Don't expect any favours on this baby! The sharp arete slopes in more dimensions than physicists have ever dreamed of. With gear in the very low slot , power up the arete with great determination, skill, power, technique and all those other things you have not got. [1]

References

[1] Burbage, Millstone and Beyond by The BMC 2005

So called because, while working the line, Jerry Moffatt proclaimed

only a true master could solo it onsight. [1]

Jerry was preparing for a solo ascent. Ron Fawcett found that an Edelrid Amigo [2,3] sliding nut fitted the shotholes and promptly led the route after minimal inspection.

In c.2010s a marginal slider placement was discovered in the first part of the route, taking some of the sting out of the solo to the shot holes. Around 2024/2025 someone took a fall onto the slider and blew the placement out in the process.

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 107, page 48

[2] https://www.ukhillwalking.com/photos/dbpage.php?id=416863

[3] https://needs-needlesports-gob2b.b-cdn.net/imagecache/8dae6b69-d110-410b-890c-aaf700cdd554/NutsStory510_300x198.jpg

Climbed in the midst of the foot-and-mouth epidemic of 2001, in which most non-urban crags were banned and 6 million cows and sheep were slaughtered and incinerated.

The route climbs the wall of a wide chimney, with bridging not allowed – hence the name.

A historic gritstone king line, which was solved well ahead of its time by Jonny Woodward in 1982, in non-sticky boots.

The route relies on a crucial pebble to leave the half height break and enter the seam above. In the early 2000s half the pebble shattered and fell off, making the crux harder but still possible.

John Allen:

It seemed to me that it's ascent was a moment of inspiration fired by desire. A classic natural sculpture made to be climbed, but only by the best. [1]

References

[1] Extreme Rock (1987) Rear Cover /library/collection/1/extreme-rock

Originally an E5 with runners in an adjacent and tree, no longer present.

Superseded by Detachment Theory (E8)

Named in memory of Rod Hull, who had recently fallen off his roof.

BLG stands for 'Big Long Grandad', in honour of Pete Hurley's grandfather.

The left hand side of Curving Arete.

The route originally had a thin peg runner at the top of the groove, providing some protection for the crux reach around the overhang. By the early 2000s it was in a poor state and by 2008 it was gone, leaving ascentionists to run it out to top a long way above the single remaining peg (replaced around 2008).

Frequently climbed above a snow drift and a pile of pads at 7A+.

E7 7a. A desperate bouldery route which went unrepeated for many years.

So named because the first ascent was protected with a chisel placed in a pocket. [1]

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 88, page 10

Initially climbed with side runners at E5 and called Against All Odds. Gareth Parry was the first to solo it and restored the route's working name.

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 90, page 70

Gritstone sport climbing

~7C

A Johnny Dawes project which he was trying ground up before Robin Barker applied his considerable talents to the problem. 7C highballing to some gear in the break and a still-tricky finish.

The route originally had a thin peg runner at the top of the groove, providing some protection for the crux reach around the overhang. By the early 2000s it was in a poor state and by 2008 it was gone, leaving ascentionists to run it out to top a long way above the single remaining peg (replaced around 2008).