Sean Myles

Quick Info

From: United Kingdom 🇬🇧
Hardest Sport (Worked): 8b+
Hardest Trad (Worked): E9

Features in The Real Thing.

Contributors
16 contributions since 13th January 2021.

Quick Info

From: United Kingdom 🇬🇧
Hardest Sport (Worked): 8b+
Hardest Trad (Worked): E9

Features in The Real Thing.

Contributors
16 contributions since 13th January 2021.

Lists

Pics + Vids

Added at 17:01 on 13 January 2021
Rodney Mullen (E8, FA)
Added at 17:08 on 30 August 2024
© Darren Stevenson
Punks in the Gym (8b+)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 14:06 on 28 June 2021

Ascents

8 recorded ascents.

This timeline is missing some ascents where the date of the ascent is unknown. Use the other tabs to view these ascents.
Year Climb Grade Style Date
1988 Scarface 8b+ Lead | worked Apr 1988

The Power of Climbing (1991) by David Jones, page 192
1989 Monumental Armblaster 8a+ Lead | worked 1989
First ascent.
1990 Screaming Dream E7 Lead | worked 1990
Second ascent.
Bungles Arete 8b Lead | worked 11th Dec 1990
First ascent.

References

[1] Slate Historical Section
1991 Rodney Mullen E8 Lead | worked Mar 1991
First ascent. Pre-placed gear.

Sean pre-placed a peg by hand to protect the first ascent. [1] This led to some controversy and the route was not recorded in the subsequent guide. Sean re-climbed it in 1999 hand-placing the peg on lead.

Sean summarises a double page spread of ranting in On The Edge Issue 98:

I can't believe you didn't put Rodney in the bloody guide! [1]

Dave Thomas, who belayed Sean when he re-climbed it:

...no shenanigans, and peg placed on lead. He did hammer it in though - with the palm of his hand ;D

Bit of a nasty rope burn on his calf when he fell off, but peg stayed. Taken out, and then re-placed on lead IIRC. [2]

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 98, page 88

[2] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10464.msg638259.html#msg638259
Captain Invincible E9 Lead | worked 8th May 1991
First ascent.

A seriously impressive ascent at a time when 8b+ sport routes were still big news.

Led on pre-placed gear and a grade of E8 proposed.

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.117978419659044/117978762992343
1992 Punks in the Gym 8b+ Lead | worked 1992

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/B_MCK4AlQav/
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Scarface 8b+ Lead | worked Apr 1988

The Power of Climbing (1991) by David Jones, page 192
Punks in the Gym 8b+ Lead | worked 1992

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/B_MCK4AlQav/
Bungles Arete 8b Lead | worked 11th Dec 1990
First ascent.

References

[1] Slate Historical Section
Monumental Armblaster 8a+ Lead | worked 1989
First ascent.
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Captain Invincible E9 Lead | worked 8th May 1991 E8
First ascent.

A seriously impressive ascent at a time when 8b+ sport routes were still big news.

Led on pre-placed gear and a grade of E8 proposed.

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.117978419659044/117978762992343
Rodney Mullen E8 Lead | worked Mar 1991 8a
First ascent. Pre-placed gear.

Sean pre-placed a peg by hand to protect the first ascent. [1] This led to some controversy and the route was not recorded in the subsequent guide. Sean re-climbed it in 1999 hand-placing the peg on lead.

Sean summarises a double page spread of ranting in On The Edge Issue 98:

I can't believe you didn't put Rodney in the bloody guide! [1]

Dave Thomas, who belayed Sean when he re-climbed it:

...no shenanigans, and peg placed on lead. He did hammer it in though - with the palm of his hand ;D

Bit of a nasty rope burn on his calf when he fell off, but peg stayed. Taken out, and then re-placed on lead IIRC. [2]

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 98, page 88

[2] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10464.msg638259.html#msg638259
Ogwen Crack E7 Lead | worked
First ascent.

Sean climbed a slightly more direct (and possibly eliminate) finish which is probably worth E8. [1]

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/craig_braich_ty_du_pen_yr_ole_wen-525/ogwen_crack-263074#overview:~:text=Pokey%20welsh%20puppies-,feedback,-Always%20Hide%20%CE%B2eta
Screaming Dream E7 Lead | worked 1990
Second ascent.
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade