End of the Affair | E8 Trad climb at Curbar Edge

More

• Change Log
• Threads

First ascent. Belayed by Nick Dixon.

Johnny attempted the route ground up in 1984 taking two sketchy falls from high on the route – saved from injury by one of his two belayers jumping off a small cliff below the route to take in slack. After a restorative beer, he set off for another go.

In 1986, sensing that someone else might do it first, he top roped the line before leading it on a sweaty late summer evening.

Second ascent. Belayed by Andy Popp.

Nick had belayed Johnny on his ascent; Andy Popp belayed Nick, and later made the third ascent – thus beginning the curse of The End of the Affair…

References

[1] Westlake, D. (2010). Froggatt to Black Rocks, page 178.

Third ascent.

Both feet cut loose on the crux so just put 'em back on again and carried on. Glad my belayer did not jump off the block and pull me off.

Belayed by Tom de Gay.

Tom de Gay, after belaying Tetler:

It was the scariest moment of my life!

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 97, page 28

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1UvLH_8imrQ

References

[1] High Mountain Issue 253, page 12

First female ascent.

First female Ascent of a grit E8

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/lisa-rands-climbs-gritstone-e8.html

References

[1] https://web.archive.org/web/20061022044725/http://www.planetfear.com/article_detail.asp?a_id=454

References

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg175969.html#msg175969

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/dbpage.php?id=107569

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2010/11/lucinda_whittaker_-_gritstone_e8-58675

References

[1] https://vimeo.com/32634708

[2] https://johnroberts.me/outdoors/2011/11/the-promise-is-it-finally-the-end-of-the-affair/

References

[1] https://www.scarpa.co.uk/blogs/blog/matt-cousins-top-5-gritstone-routes?srsltid=AfmBOoq5EPu_0BJ_so1fjZAVUXyY98cRm7aan7aQCNWM-y1BCUSS957v