Climbs

Climb Name Type Grade # Ascents Recorded Notes Exclude Reason
Keen Roof Boulder problem 8A+ 36

Keen Roof is one of the most popular hard boulder problems in the peak district, and in the UK as a whole, largely due to it's roadside location and high number of ascents meaning beta is easy to come by.

Bat Route Sport route 8c 32

7b in to 7B with a kneebar rest, followed by an 8a+ headwall.

The Ace Boulder problem 8B 32

Alex Megos:

The holds are there, the holds are big, the moves are small, it's easy. Why is it so hard!? [1]

References

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg470882.html#msg470882

To Bolt or Not to Be Sport route 8b+ 30
Action Directe Sport route 9a 27

Action Directe is a sport route in the Waldkopf area of the Frankenjura in Germany. It was first climbed by Wolfgang Güllich in 1991 who suggested a grade UIAA grade of XI which equates to roughly 8c+/9a. It has since settled at 9a making it one of the first of the grade in the world.

The route is named after the french terror group.

References

[1] Written in Stone, Nov 2023 https://open.spotify.com/episode/3XjUWgzU7IMJgEWPzequbq?

[2] Written in Stone interview with Ben Cossey, Nov 2023 https://open.spotify.com/episode/0jLxfy5CRlOTykTmtG7MZe?

[3] Written in Stone interview with Alex Megos, Nov 2023 https://open.spotify.com/episode/5nhDlvoMlXj4jvCROnwSh6?

Mecca Extension Sport route 8c 27

A long standing project of Mark Leach's. Unfortunately after working out the extension he was unable to repeat Mecca so the first ascent had to wait for Steve McClure.

The Nose Sport route 8b+ 25
True North Sport route 8c 24

Kilnsey's first 8c.

Cobra Crack Trad climb E9 21

References

[1] https://open.spotify.com/episode/2Ydq78HiAujHdEy0t4hp1R?

New Base Line Boulder problem 8B+ 21
Dreamtime Boulder problem 8C 20

Originally considered 8B+/C, the crux pinch broke off around November 2009 and it is now considered 8C.

https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/dreamtime-a-dream-which-vanished-for-a-second-only.html

Ben's Roof Boulder problem 7C 19
The Big Island Boulder problem 8C 19
Meshuga Trad climb E9 18
Monkey Wedding Boulder problem 8C 18
Austrian Oak Sport route 8b 17
Just Do It Sport route 8c+ 17

The first 8c+ in the USA. Bolted by Alan Watts in 1989.

References

[1] https://open.spotify.com/episode/30qPube60E0HHtsSacKlHF?

Mecca - The Mid-life Crisis Sport route 8b+ 17

Originally given E8.

Practice of the Wild Boulder problem 8B+ 17
Fat Lip Boulder problem 8B 16

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