Climbs

7b in to 7B with a kneebar rest, followed by an 8a+ headwall.

A long standing project of Mark Leach's. Unfortunately after working out the extension he was unable to repeat Mecca.

The holds are there, the holds are big, the moves are small, it's easy. Why is it so hard!? [1]

Alex Megos

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg470882.html#msg470882

Kilnsey's first 8c.

Lou Ferrino in to Trigger Cut.

Originally graded 8c+ but regarded to be 9a now. This would make it both the first 8c+ and first 9a in the world.

Approximately 8B/+ boulder problem in to a 7c upper section.

The route was first climbed on the 2nd of March 1988 by Andy Pollit and graded E9. The pre-clipped 'hand-held' peg used on the first ascent was later discovered to have actually been placed with a 'hand-held' hammer. src

The grade of a given ascent depends quite a bit on the particular gear used.

Previously called the Black 90 project.

The first E9 in the UK.

Memorably described in Paul Williams' 1989 guidebook:

It has been said that up the face to the right of A Midsummer Night's Dream, a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...

Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...

The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'.

Originally climbed with a sika'd hold by Nic Sellars in 1992.

A classic Johnny Dawes test piece. A hard move gains entry to the groove where easier (but scarier!) climbing awaits before a terrifying finale.

Bolted by Milan Sykora in the 80s and named after the french terror group.

Bolted in 1998 by Jean-Cristophe Lafaille and given the name Biographie it was later renamed Realization by the first ascenionist Chris Sharma. In line with French tradition the line is now known by the original name, Biographie.

Originally climbed without knee bars and given 8C, now considered to be 8B.

Originally climbed with a desperate feet low sequence (~8B), this was subsequently improved slightly with a toe on the rail (abely demonstrated by Ben Moon in Hard Grit) before some heel hooking technique was applied which lowered the grade to 7C.