Climbs

Climb Name Type Grade # Ascents Recorded Notes Exclude Reason
Keen Roof Boulder problem 8B 28
Bat Route Sport route 8c 23

7b in to 7B with a kneebar rest, followed by an 8a+ headwall.

Mecca Extension Sport route 8c 18

A long standing project of Mark Leach's. Unfortunately after working out the extension he was unable to repeat Mecca.

The Ace Boulder problem 8B 16

The holds are there, the holds are big, the moves are small, it's easy. Why is it so hard!? [1]

Alex Megos

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg470882.html#msg470882

Ben's Roof Boulder problem 7C 14
Meshuga Trad climb E9 14
True North Sport route 8c 14

Kilnsey's first 8c.

Director's Cut Boulder problem 8B 13

Lou Ferrino in to Trigger Cut.

Fat Lip Boulder problem 8B 13
Make it Funky Sport route 8c 13
Voyager Boulder problem 8B 13
Divided Years Trad climb E9 12
Mecca - The Mid-life Crisis Sport route 8b+ 12
Rainshadow Sport route 9a 12
Cobra Crack Trad climb E9 11
Kaa'bah Sport route 8c+ 11
Cry Freedom Sport route 8c 10
Cypher Boulder problem 8B 10
Dandelion Mind Boulder problem 8B 10
Hubble Sport route 9a 10

Originally graded 8c+ but regarded to be 9a now. This would make it both the first 8c+ and first 9a in the world.

Approximately 8B/+ boulder problem in to a 7c upper section.

Knockin' on Heaven's Door Trad climb E9 10

The route was first climbed on the 2nd of March 1988 by Andy Pollit and graded E9. The pre-clipped 'hand-held' peg used on the first ascent was later discovered to have actually been placed with a 'hand-held' hammer. src

The grade of a given ascent depends quite a bit on the particular gear used.

Rare Lichen Trad climb E9 10
High Fidelity Boulder problem 8B 9
Indian Face Trad climb E9 9

The first E9 in the UK.

Memorably described in Paul Williams' 1989 guidebook:

It has been said that up the face to the right of A Midsummer Night's Dream, a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...

Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...

The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'.

Muy Caliente! Trad climb E9 9
Unjustified Sport route 8b+ 9

Originally climbed with a sika'd hold by Nic Sellars in 1992.

Creature from the Black Lagoon Boulder problem 8C+ 8

Previously called the Black 90 project.

Evolution Sport route 8c+ 8
Gaia Trad climb E8 8

A classic Johnny Dawes test piece. A hard move gains entry to the groover where easier (but scarier!) climbing awaits before a terrifying finale.

Monk Life Boulder problem 8B+ 8
Isla de Encanta Boulder problem 8B 7
Isles of Wonder Boulder problem 8B 7
Louis Armstrong Boulder problem 8B 7
Monkey Wedding Boulder problem 8C 7
New Base Line Boulder problem 8B+ 7
Serenity Boulder problem 8B 7
The Big Issue Trad climb E9 7
The Riverbed Boulder problem 8B 7
Belly of the Beast Boulder problem 8B 6

Originally climbed without knee bars and given 8C, now considered to be 8B.

Brad Pit Boulder problem 7C 6

Originally climbed with a desperate feet low sequence (~8B), this was subsequently improved slightly with a toe on the rail (abely demonstrated by Ben Moon in Hard Grit) before some heel hooking technique was applied which lowered the grade to 7C.

Caroline Boulder problem 7C+ 6
Chilam Balam Sport route 9b 6
Fight or Flight Sport route 9b 6
Kalea Borroka Sport route 8b+ 6
La Planta de Shiva Sport route 9b 6
Parthian Shot (Pre 2011 Break) Trad climb E9 6
Pedigree Chum Traverse 8c+ 6
Pilgrimage Boulder problem 8B+ 6

A very long boulder problem. Around 8c+ to 9a as a sport route depending on how many knee bars you find.

Chrish Doyle:

Pilgrimage (or The Big Link as it was always referred to) is a historic piece of Welsh climbing. In the early 90s long before the Cave was a popular and recognised bouldering destination an in-form Ben Moon got close to making the FA. The problem was written up in the first Northern Soul despite being a project and its legend grew in Cave circles. In 2004 legendary strong man Malcolm Smith invested considerable time and money (1000 pounds worth of fuel driving down from Scotland) and made the first ascent of the link at 8b+ or F9a.

Predator Sport route 8b 6
Progress Sport route 8c+ 6

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