Climbs

Climb Name Type Grade # Ascents Recorded Notes Exclude Reason
Keen Roof Boulder problem 8B 28
Bat Route Sport route 8c 23

7b in to 7B with a kneebar rest, followed by an 8a+ headwall.

Mecca Extension Sport route 8c 18

A long standing project of Mark Leach's. Unfortunately after working out the extension he was unable to repeat Mecca.

The Ace Boulder problem 8B 16

The holds are there, the holds are big, the moves are small, it's easy. Why is it so hard!? [1]

Alex Megos

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg470882.html#msg470882

True North Sport route 8c 15

Kilnsey's first 8c.

Ben's Roof Boulder problem 7C 14
Meshuga Trad climb E9 14
Director's Cut Boulder problem 8B 13

Lou Ferrino in to Trigger Cut.

Fat Lip Boulder problem 8B 13
Make it Funky Sport route 8c 13
Voyager Boulder problem 8B 13
Cobra Crack Trad climb E9 12
Divided Years Trad climb E9 12
Mecca - The Mid-life Crisis Sport route 8b+ 12
Muy Caliente! Trad climb E9 12
Rainshadow Sport route 9a 12
Kaa'bah Sport route 8c+ 11
Rare Lichen Trad climb E9 11
Cry Freedom Sport route 8c 10
Cypher Boulder problem 8B 10
Dandelion Mind Boulder problem 8B 10
Hubble Sport route 9a 10

Originally graded 8c+ but regarded to be 9a now. This would make it both the first 8c+ and first 9a in the world.

Approximately 8B/+ boulder problem in to a 7c upper section.

Knockin' on Heaven's Door Trad climb E9 10

The route was first climbed on the 2nd of March 1988 by Andy Pollit and graded E9. The pre-clipped 'hand-held' peg used on the first ascent was later discovered to have actually been placed with a 'hand-held' hammer. src

The grade of a given ascent depends quite a bit on the particular gear used.

Creature from the Black Lagoon Boulder problem 8C+ 9

Previously called the Black 90 project.

High Fidelity Boulder problem 8B 9
Indian Face Trad climb E9 9

The first E9 in the UK.

Memorably described in Paul Williams' 1989 guidebook:

It has been said that up the face to the right of A Midsummer Night's Dream, a pitch of such appalling difficulty as to be almost beyond the realms of human comprehension has been ascended without mechanical machinations or other insidious practices normally associated with a route of this calibre...

Protection is at best illusory; the whole sweep of rock affords not so much as a single nubbin on which the thinnest line may be secured, nor a single crack in which the most vestigal of chockstones could hope to gain lodgement. Should the leader fail to negotiate the crux, or be seized by a palsy high on the pitch, disaster must be imminent...

The successful leader, even though he be of a modest disposition, may relax, and justifiably award himself a 'pat on the back'.

Progress Sport route 8c+ 9
Unjustified Sport route 8b+ 9

Originally climbed with a sika'd hold by Nic Sellars in 1992.

Evolution Sport route 8c+ 8
Gaia Trad climb E8 8

A classic Johnny Dawes test piece. A hard move gains entry to the groove where easier (but scarier!) climbing awaits before a terrifying finale.

Isles of Wonder Boulder problem 8B 8
Louis Armstrong Boulder problem 8B 8
Monk Life Boulder problem 8B+ 8
Supercool Sport route 8a+ 8
Action Directe Sport route 9a 7

Bolted by Milan Sykora in the 80s and named after the french terror group.

Austrian Oak Sport route 8b 7
Biographie Sport route 9a+ 7

Bolted in 1998 by Jean-Cristophe Lafaille and given the name Biographie it was later renamed Realization by the first ascenionist Chris Sharma. In line with French tradition the line is now known by the original name, Biographie.

Isla de Encanta Boulder problem 8B 7
Monkey Wedding Boulder problem 8C 7
New Base Line Boulder problem 8B+ 7
Raindogs Sport route 8a 7
San Simian Trad climb E8 7
Serenity Boulder problem 8B 7
The Big Issue Trad climb E9 7
The Nose Sport route 8b+ 7
The Riverbed Boulder problem 8B 7
Aberration Sport route 8a 6
Accelerator Sport route 8b+ 6
Belly of the Beast Boulder problem 8B 6

Originally climbed without knee bars and given 8C, now considered to be 8B.

Brad Pit Boulder problem 7C 6

Originally climbed with a desperate feet low sequence (~8B), this was subsequently improved slightly with a toe on the rail (abely demonstrated by Ben Moon in Hard Grit) before some heel hooking technique was applied which lowered the grade to 7C.

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