Climbs

Keen Roof is one of the most popular hard boulder problems in the peak district, and in the UK as a whole, largely due to it's roadside location and high number of ascents meaning beta is easy to come by.

Alex Megos:

The holds are there, the holds are big, the moves are small, it's easy. Why is it so hard!? [1]

References

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg470882.html#msg470882

7b in to 7B with a kneebar rest, followed by an 8a+ headwall.

A classic boulder problem first ascended by Bernd Zangerl in 2002. The problem follows an overhanging rising crack with a challenging mix of crimps, slopers, and shoulder moves. Known for its technical demands and aesthetic line, it has become a popular test piece for climbers at the grade.

Action Directe is a sport route in the Waldkopf area of the Frankenjura in Germany. It was first climbed by Wolfgang Güllich in 1991 who suggested a grade UIAA grade of XI which equates to roughly 8c+/9a. It has since settled at 9a making it one of the first of the grade in the world.

The route is famous for it's brutal, uncompromising climbing on one- and two-finger pockets. While training for the first ascent Wolfgang famously made use of the first campus board in the world (the board was erected in the Campus Centre gym in Nürnberg hence the name).

After an easier initial section leading to a ledge and hands-off rest the route consists of around 20 hand moves, a pure power-endurance testpiece.

The route is named after the french terror group of the same name.

References

[1] Written in Stone, Nov 2023 https://open.spotify.com/episode/3XjUWgzU7IMJgEWPzequbq?

[2] Written in Stone interview with Ben Cossey, Nov 2023 https://open.spotify.com/episode/0jLxfy5CRlOTykTmtG7MZe?

[3] Written in Stone interview with Alex Megos, Nov 2023 https://open.spotify.com/episode/5nhDlvoMlXj4jvCROnwSh6?

Originally considered 8B+/C, the crux pinch broke off around November 2009 and it is now considered 8C.

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/dreamtime-a-dream-which-vanished-for-a-second-only.html

Among the most famous routes in the world, this wall of relentless edges played a seminal role in the consolidation of Sport Climbing being the first 5.14a in North America.

A long standing project of Mark Leach's. Unfortunately after working out the extension he was unable to repeat Mecca so the first ascent had to wait for Steve McClure.

Kilnsey's first 8c.

A classic Johnny Dawes test piece. A hard move gains entry to the groove where easier (but scarier!) climbing awaits before a terrifying finale.

References

[1] https://open.spotify.com/episode/2Ydq78HiAujHdEy0t4hp1R?