Doug | E8 Trad climb at The Roaches

United Kingdom / England / Staffordshire / Leek
UKClimbing.com
Contributors
remus
21 contributions since 23rd September 2021.
TdG
2 contributions since 3rd October 2025.

Pics + Vids

No pics or vids yet.

Ascents

8 successful ascents and 1 unsuccessful attempt recorded.

Climber Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade

Dixon had a couple of helpers stretch a blanket out underneath him while he attempted to make the first ascent, hoping they would be able to use it to catch him in case of a fall. [1]

References

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,33960.msg690840.html#msg690840

Aged just 16! [1]

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/roaches_lower_tier-105/doug-15982
Julian Lines Third ascent. Solo | worked Between 13th Feb 1994 and 1st Jan 1998

Dave snapped a pebble and broke his ankle while going for a headpoint ascent.

I was headpointing an E8, which would have been my first E8. I'd just top roped it cleanly and then I went for the lead, which in this case was actually a solo, and I was just standing up through the crux move and I was thinking "I'm gonna do this, I feel really solid" and the crux pebble that I was pushing down on snapped off and I decked out, broke my ankle quite badly... [1]

References

[1] https://youtu.be/MDEJEOjA4IE?si=1tSGg_K6PDU8idM7&t=302

Climbed on impulse after watching a friend top rope it, and having previously headpointed A Fist Full of Crystals, up which the route starts.

References

[1] On The Edge 127, page 71
Chris Hudgins Solo | worked 2nd Apr 2004

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/reel/DHbirA8NGq_/

References

[1] https://web.archive.org/web/20061022044555/http://www.planetfear.com/article_detail.asp?a_id=393

[2] On The Edge Issue 84, page 37