Jerry Moffatt
Quick Info ˅
| Nationality: | GB |
| Date of birth: | 18th March 1963 |
| Hardest Boulder (Worked): | 8B |
| Hardest Sport (Worked): | 8c+ |
| Hardest Sport (Onsight): | 8a |
| Hardest Sport (Flash): | 7c+ |
| Hardest Trad (Worked): | E8 |
| Hardest Trad (Onsight): | E6 |
| Hardest Trad (Flash): | E7 |
| Notable Partnerships | |
| Ben Moon | |
| Malcolm Smith | |
| Neil Molnar | |
| Kurt Albert | |
| Wolfgang Güllich | |
Jerry Moffatt was at the forefront of british climbing form the early eighties to mid-nineties. Along with Ben Moon Jerry established many hard firsts in the UK, Germany, France and USA including historic ascents such as The Face, Revelations and Liquid Ambar, all at the cutting edge of difficulty at the time they were established.
Jerry was an early proponent of bouldering in it's own right. From early ascents on The Bowderstone he went on to put up a host of hard classics such as The Ace at Stanage and Dominator in Yosemite.
References
[1] The Real Thing https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=brbxoKEgsw0
[2] Stone Love https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FguueX9jM78
[3] 80's Birth of Extreme https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jkj3Buhfi2k
[4] Statement of Youth https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zeqI9axxrco
[5] Portrait by Chris Gore https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/3456311291101688
[6] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/2732067140192777
[7] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/876401569092686
[8] https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.115405983249621/121210252669194
[9] One Summer by Ben Pritchard, 1994 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RnGf69g6Igc
[10] Interview with Wedge Climbing, 2022 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DBmqm3VTrn4
Podcasts
Pics + Vids
To Bolt or Not to Be (8b+)
Thriller (7C+)
La Bérézina (7C)
Kingdom Come (E5)
Chouca (8a+)
Dominator (8A+, FA)
The Ace (8B, FA)
Ulysses' Bow (E6, FA)
Stone Love (8b+, FA)
White Wall (E5)
White Wall (E5)
Evolution (8c+, FA)
The Phoenix (E7)
Le Minimum (8c)
Master's Wall (E7, FA)
Master's Wall (E7, FA)
Papy on Sight (7c+, FA)
Papy on Sight (7c+, FA)
Super Imujin (E6)
Renegade Master (E8, FA)
Liquid Ambar (8c+, FA)
Liquid Ambar (8c+, FA)
Liquid Ambar (8c+, FA)
Liquid Ambar (8c+, FA)
Ascents
71 recorded ascents.
| Year | Climb | Grade | FA | Ascent Date |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1980 | White Wall | E5 (Lead) | 1980 | |
|
https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/2656362574429901 https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/430864846979696 |
||||
| 1981 | Psyche 'n' Burn | E6 (Lead) | ✓ | 1981 |
|
https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.115298749927011/115300749926811 |
||||
| 1982 | Tequila Mockingbird | 7c+ (Lead) | 1982 | |
|
Second ascent. |
||||
| Indecent Exposure | 7c (Lead) | 1982 | ||
|
Second ascent. |
||||
| Little Plum | 8a (Lead) | ✓ | 1982 | |
|
Jerry recounts that a will to impress a passing Dougie Hall and Kim Carrigan provided the extra motivation he needed to climb the route. Jerry had previously climbed the first pitch in 1981. He then completed the second pitch in 1982. https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116578176465735/116578389799047 |
||||
| Rooster Booster | 7c+ (Lead) | ✓ | 1982 | |
|
First free ascent. In it's incarnation as an aid route it was known as The Cambridge Bolt Route. https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116578176465735/116578313132388 |
||||
| The Prow | 8a (Lead) | 1982 | ||
|
Second ascent. |
||||
| The Storm | 7b+ (Lead) | ✓ | February 1982 | |
|
https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116578176465735/116578286465724 |
||||
| 1983 | Zero | E7 (Lead Flash) | 1983 | |
|
Third ascent shortly after Andy Pollitt's second ascent making use of the fact that the route was cleaned and chalked. Nonetheless a very impressive flash. |
||||
| Ekel | 7c+ (Lead) | 1st January 1983 | ||
| Chasin' the Train | 7c (Lead) | 1983 | ||
| Slapstick | 7C (Boulder) | ✓ | 1983 | |
| Inaudible Vaudeville | 7B+ (Boulder) | ✓ | 1983 | |
| Impropa Opera | 7C (Boulder) | ✓ | 1983 | |
| Picnic Sarcastic | 7A+ (Boulder) | 1983 | ||
| Genocide | E6 (Lead) | ✓ | 1983 | |
|
https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116578176465735/116579986465554 |
||||
| Masterclass | 8a (Lead) | ✓ | 1983 | |
| The Face | 8a+ (Lead) | ✓ | 1983 | |
| Linden | E6 (Solo Onsight) | 1983 | ||
| Ulysses' Bow | E6 (Solo) | ✓ | 14th April 1983 | |
|
Solo after top rope practice. https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116578176465735/116579829798903. https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/1557591667640336 |
||||
| Sole Power | 7C (Boulder) | ✓ | 2nd June 1983 | |
| Master's Wall | E7 (Lead) | ✓ | 14th July 1983 | |
References[1] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/3446194975446653 [2] https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116371059819780/116371949819691 [3] Interview with Niall Grimes on Jam Crack Podcast, March 2022 http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt |
||||
| Cenotaph Corner | E1 (Solo Repeat) | 15th July 1983 | ||
| Left Wall | E2 (Solo Repeat) | 15th July 1983 | ||
| Cemetry Gates | E1 (Solo Repeat) | 15th July 1983 | ||
| Right Wall | E5 (Solo) | 15th July 1983 | ||
| Foil | E3 (Solo Repeat) | 15th July 1983 | ||
| Memory Lane | E3 (Solo Repeat) | 15th July 1983 | ||
| Oyster | 8a (Lead) | ✓ | August 1983 | |
| 1984 | The Phoenix | E7 (Lead Flash) | 1984 | |
|
https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/462380993828081 |
||||
| Midnight Lightning | 7B (Boulder) | 1984 | ||
|
The first ascent in a day. |
||||
| Super Imujin | E6 (Lead Flash) | 1984 | ||
|
Japan's hardest route at the time. https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/2679994322066726 |
||||
| Verbal Abuse | E7 (Lead) | ✓ | 1984 | |
| Papy on Sight | 7c+ (Lead) | ✓ | 1984 | |
|
https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/1470798709652966 https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/4612848935447912/ |
||||
| Le Bidule | 8a+ (Lead) | 1984 | ||
| Orange Sunshine | 7c+ (Lead) | ✓ | 1984 | |
| Messiah | E7 (Lead) | ✓ | 1984 | |
| Polpot | 7c (Lead Onsight) | 1984 | ||
| Chimpanzodrome | 7c+ (Lead Flash) | 18th March 1984 | ||
|
On his 21st birthday. |
||||
| Revelations (Pre-1999) | 8a+ (Lead) | ✓ | August 1984 | |
|
The start has gotten harder over time. Originally 8a+. |
||||
| 1985 | ||||
| 1986 | ||||
| 1987 | Ghettoblaster | 8b (Lead) | 1987 | |
| Le Minimum | 8c (Lead) | 1987 | ||
|
Third ascent. https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/288817811184401 |
||||
| La Rage de Vivre | 8b+ (Lead) | 1987 | ||
|
Second ascent? |
||||
| 1988 | Le Spectre du Sur-Mutant | 8b+ (Lead) | 1988 | |
| Stone Love | 8b+ (Lead) | ✓ | 1988 | |
|
https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/2482152265184267 |
||||
| Scarface | 8b+ (Lead) | March 1988 | ||
|
The Power of Climbing (1991) by David Jones, page 192 |
||||
| White Wedding | 8b+ (Lead) | April 1988 | ||
|
Completing the trilogy of 8b+'s at Smith within a 1 month trip. (Source: Revelations) |
||||
| To Bolt or Not to Be | 8b+ (Lead) | May 1988 | ||
|
Believed 3rd ascent (after Scott Franklin's 2nd). |
||||
| Slingshot | 7C+ (Top Rope) | ✓ | December 1988 | |
|
Climbed on top rope as pads were yet to be invented. |
||||
| 1989 | Zoolook | 8a (Lead Onsight) | June 1989 | |
| 1990 | Liquid Ambar | 8c+ (Lead) | ✓ | 30th March 1990 |
|
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jkj3Buhfi2k&t=3224s https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/641168632615982 https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/402010799865101 |
||||
| 1991 | Zeke the Freak | 8b (Lead) | Before 1st January 1991 | |
|
Pre-1991. [1] References[1] The Power of Climbing (1991) by David Jones, page 192 |
||||
| Les Mains Sales | 8b (Lead) | Before 1st January 1991 | ||
|
Pre-1991. [1] [1] The Power of Climbing (1991) by David Jones, page 192 |
||||
| 1992 | Punks in the Gym | 8b+ (Lead) | 1992 | |
|
Second ascent. |
||||
| Serpentine | 8a (Lead Onsight) | 1992 | ||
| 1993 | Dominator | 8A+ (Boulder) | ✓ | 1993 |
|
https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/421353737930807 |
||||
| 1994 | ||||
| 1995 | Progress (pre-hold break) | 8c (Lead) | ✓ | 1995 |
| Renegade Master | E8 (Lead) | ✓ | 1995 | |
|
With pre-placed gear so that it could be clipped more easily on the lead. https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/4537003366365803/ |
||||
| Evolution | 8c+ (Lead) | ✓ | 13th May 1995 | |
|
https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/411589388907242 |
||||
| Sean's Roof | 8A+ (Lead) | ✓ | August 1995 | |
| 1996 | The Joker | 8A (Boulder) | ✓ | 1996 |
| 1997 | Samson | 8A (Lead) | ✓ | 1997 |
| 1998 | ||||
| 1999 | ||||
| 2000 | ||||
| 2001 | The Ace | 8B (Boulder) | ✓ | 2001 |
|
Various dates between 2000 and 2002 have been reported for the first ascent. It was reported in On The Edge #105 (March 2001 edition) which suggests it was done around January 2001 [4].
References[1] Revelations by Jerry Moffatt and Niall Grimes, 2009. Page 225. [2] Peak Rock by Phil Kelly, Graham Hoey and Giles Barker, 2013. Page 310. [3] https://www.climber.co.uk/news/dave-mason-repeats-the-ace/ [4] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,33255.msg666546.html#msg666546 [5] Climber magazine |
||||
| 2002 | ||||
| Climb | Grade | FA | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Liquid Ambar | 8c+ (Lead) | ✓ | 30th March 1990 | 8c |
|
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jkj3Buhfi2k&t=3224s https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/641168632615982 https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/402010799865101 |
||||
| Evolution | 8c+ (Lead) | ✓ | 13th May 1995 | |
|
https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/411589388907242 |
||||
| Progress (pre-hold break) | 8c (Lead) | ✓ | 1995 | |
| Le Minimum | 8c (Lead) | 1987 | ||
|
Third ascent. https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/288817811184401 |
||||
| Stone Love | 8b+ (Lead) | ✓ | 1988 | |
|
https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/2482152265184267 |
||||
| La Rage de Vivre | 8b+ (Lead) | 1987 | ||
|
Second ascent? |
||||
| Le Spectre du Sur-Mutant | 8b+ (Lead) | 1988 | ||
| Scarface | 8b+ (Lead) | March 1988 | ||
|
The Power of Climbing (1991) by David Jones, page 192 |
||||
| White Wedding | 8b+ (Lead) | April 1988 | ||
|
Completing the trilogy of 8b+'s at Smith within a 1 month trip. (Source: Revelations) |
||||
| To Bolt or Not to Be | 8b+ (Lead) | May 1988 | ||
|
Believed 3rd ascent (after Scott Franklin's 2nd). |
||||
| Punks in the Gym | 8b+ (Lead) | 1992 | ||
|
Second ascent. |
||||
| Ghettoblaster | 8b (Lead) | 1987 | ||
| Zeke the Freak | 8b (Lead) | Before 1st January 1991 | ||
|
Pre-1991. [1] References[1] The Power of Climbing (1991) by David Jones, page 192 |
||||
| Les Mains Sales | 8b (Lead) | Before 1st January 1991 | ||
|
Pre-1991. [1] [1] The Power of Climbing (1991) by David Jones, page 192 |
||||
| The Face | 8a+ (Lead) | ✓ | 1983 | |
| Revelations (Pre-1999) | 8a+ (Lead) | ✓ | August 1984 | |
|
The start has gotten harder over time. Originally 8a+. |
||||
| Le Bidule | 8a+ (Lead) | 1984 | ||
| Chouca | 8a+ (Lead) | |||
|
https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/2416302841769210 https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/1444484248951079 |
||||
| Little Plum | 8a (Lead) | ✓ | 1982 | |
|
Jerry recounts that a will to impress a passing Dougie Hall and Kim Carrigan provided the extra motivation he needed to climb the route. Jerry had previously climbed the first pitch in 1981. He then completed the second pitch in 1982. https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116578176465735/116578389799047 |
||||
| Masterclass | 8a (Lead) | ✓ | 1983 | |
| Oyster | 8a (Lead) | ✓ | August 1983 | |
| The Prow | 8a (Lead) | 1982 | ||
|
Second ascent. |
||||
| Zoolook | 8a (Lead Onsight) | June 1989 | ||
| Serpentine | 8a (Lead Onsight) | 1992 | ||
| Rooster Booster | 7c+ (Lead) | ✓ | 1982 | |
|
First free ascent. In it's incarnation as an aid route it was known as The Cambridge Bolt Route. https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116578176465735/116578313132388 |
||||
| Orange Sunshine | 7c+ (Lead) | ✓ | 1984 | |
| Papy on Sight | 7c+ (Lead) | ✓ | 1984 | |
|
https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/1470798709652966 https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/4612848935447912/ |
||||
| Tequila Mockingbird | 7c+ (Lead) | 1982 | ||
|
Second ascent. |
||||
| Ekel | 7c+ (Lead) | 1st January 1983 | ||
| Chimpanzodrome | 7c+ (Lead Flash) | 18th March 1984 | ||
|
On his 21st birthday. |
||||
| Indecent Exposure | 7c (Lead) | 1982 | ||
|
Second ascent. |
||||
| Chasin' the Train | 7c (Lead) | 1983 | ||
| Polpot | 7c (Lead Onsight) | 1984 | ||
| The Storm | 7b+ (Lead) | ✓ | February 1982 | |
|
https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116578176465735/116578286465724 |
||||
| Climb | Grade | FA | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| The Ace | 8B (Boulder) | ✓ | 2001 | |
|
Various dates between 2000 and 2002 have been reported for the first ascent. It was reported in On The Edge #105 (March 2001 edition) which suggests it was done around January 2001 [4].
References[1] Revelations by Jerry Moffatt and Niall Grimes, 2009. Page 225. [2] Peak Rock by Phil Kelly, Graham Hoey and Giles Barker, 2013. Page 310. [3] https://www.climber.co.uk/news/dave-mason-repeats-the-ace/ [4] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,33255.msg666546.html#msg666546 [5] Climber magazine |
||||
| Superman | 8B (Boulder) | ✓ | ||
| Voyager | 8B (Boulder) | |||
| Dominator | 8A+ (Boulder) | ✓ | 1993 | |
|
https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/421353737930807 |
||||
| Sean's Roof | 8A+ (Lead) | ✓ | August 1995 | |
| The Joker | 8A (Boulder) | ✓ | 1996 | |
| Samson | 8A (Lead) | ✓ | 1997 | |
| Slingshot | 7C+ (Top Rope) | ✓ | December 1988 | |
|
Climbed on top rope as pads were yet to be invented. |
||||
| Thriller | 7C+ (Boulder) | |||
|
https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/964820103584165 |
||||
| Slapstick | 7C (Boulder) | ✓ | 1983 | |
| Impropa Opera | 7C (Boulder) | ✓ | 1983 | |
| Sole Power | 7C (Boulder) | ✓ | 2nd June 1983 | |
| Powerband | 7C (Boulder) | ✓ | ||
| La Bérézina | 7C (Boulder) | |||
|
https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/2691794597553365 |
||||
| Inaudible Vaudeville | 7B+ (Boulder) | ✓ | 1983 | |
| Midnight Lightning | 7B (Boulder) | 1984 | ||
|
The first ascent in a day. |
||||
| Picnic Sarcastic | 7A+ (Boulder) | 1983 | ||
| Climb | Grade | FA | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Renegade Master | E8 (Lead) | ✓ | 1995 | |
|
With pre-placed gear so that it could be clipped more easily on the lead. https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/4537003366365803/ |
||||
| Master's Wall | E7 (Lead) | ✓ | 14th July 1983 | |
References[1] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/3446194975446653 [2] https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116371059819780/116371949819691 [3] Interview with Niall Grimes on Jam Crack Podcast, March 2022 http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt |
||||
| Messiah | E7 (Lead) | ✓ | 1984 | |
| Verbal Abuse | E7 (Lead) | ✓ | 1984 | |
| Zero | E7 (Lead Flash) | 1983 | ||
|
Third ascent shortly after Andy Pollitt's second ascent making use of the fact that the route was cleaned and chalked. Nonetheless a very impressive flash. |
||||
| The Phoenix | E7 (Lead Flash) | 1984 | ||
|
https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/462380993828081 |
||||
| Zero | E7 (Lead Flash) | |||
|
Third ascent. |
||||
| Psyche 'n' Burn | E6 (Lead) | ✓ | 1981 | |
|
https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.115298749927011/115300749926811 |
||||
| Genocide | E6 (Lead) | ✓ | 1983 | |
|
https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116578176465735/116579986465554 |
||||
| Ulysses' Bow | E6 (Solo) | ✓ | 14th April 1983 | |
|
Solo after top rope practice. https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116578176465735/116579829798903. https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/1557591667640336 |
||||
| Linden | E6 (Solo Onsight) | 1983 | ||
| Super Imujin | E6 (Lead Flash) | 1984 | ||
|
Japan's hardest route at the time. https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/2679994322066726 |
||||
| White Wall | E5 (Lead) | 1980 | ||
|
https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/2656362574429901 https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/430864846979696 |
||||
| Right Wall | E5 (Solo) | 15th July 1983 | ||
| Kingdom Come | E5 (Lead) | |||
|
https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/278657725533743 |
||||
| Foil | E3 (Solo Repeat) | 15th July 1983 | ||
| Memory Lane | E3 (Solo Repeat) | 15th July 1983 | ||
| Left Wall | E2 (Solo Repeat) | 15th July 1983 | ||
| Cemetry Gates | E1 (Solo Repeat) | 15th July 1983 | ||
| Cenotaph Corner | E1 (Solo Repeat) | 15th July 1983 | ||
| Climb | Grade | FA | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
|---|