Jerry Moffatt


Quick Info

Nationality: GB
Date of birth: 18 March 1963
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8B
Hardest Boulder (Flash): 8B
Hardest Sport (Worked): 8c+
Hardest Sport (Onsight): 8a
Hardest Sport (Flash): 7c+
Hardest Trad (Worked): E8
Hardest Trad (Onsight): E6
Hardest Trad (Flash): E7
Notable Partnerships
Ben Moon
Malcolm Smith
Neil Molnar
Kurt Albert
Wolfgang Güllich

Jerry Moffatt was at the forefront of british climbing form the early eighties to mid-nineties. Along with Ben Moon Jerry established many hard firsts in the UK, Germany, France and USA including historic ascents such as The Face, Revelations and Liquid Ambar, all at the cutting edge of difficulty at the time they were established.

Jerry was an early proponent of bouldering in it's own right. From early ascents on The Bowderstone he went on to put up a host of hard classics such as The Ace at Stanage and Dominator in Yosemite.

References

[1] The Real Thing https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=brbxoKEgsw0

[2] Stone Love https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FguueX9jM78

[3] 80's Birth of Extreme https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jkj3Buhfi2k

[4] Statement of Youth https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zeqI9axxrco

[5] Portrait by Chris Gore https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/3456311291101688

[6] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/2732067140192777

[7] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/876401569092686

[8] https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.115405983249621/121210252669194

[9] One Summer by Ben Pritchard, 1994 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RnGf69g6Igc

[10] Interview with Wedge Climbing, 2022 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DBmqm3VTrn4

Quick Info

Nationality: GB
Date of birth: 18 March 1963
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8B
Hardest Boulder (Flash): 8B
Hardest Sport (Worked): 8c+
Hardest Sport (Onsight): 8a
Hardest Sport (Flash): 7c+
Hardest Trad (Worked): E8
Hardest Trad (Onsight): E6
Hardest Trad (Flash): E7
Notable Partnerships
Ben Moon
Malcolm Smith
Neil Molnar
Kurt Albert
Wolfgang Güllich

Jerry Moffatt was at the forefront of british climbing form the early eighties to mid-nineties. Along with Ben Moon Jerry established many hard firsts in the UK, Germany, France and USA including historic ascents such as The Face, Revelations and Liquid Ambar, all at the cutting edge of difficulty at the time they were established.

Jerry was an early proponent of bouldering in it's own right. From early ascents on The Bowderstone he went on to put up a host of hard classics such as The Ace at Stanage and Dominator in Yosemite.

References

[1] The Real Thing https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=brbxoKEgsw0

[2] Stone Love https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FguueX9jM78

[3] 80's Birth of Extreme https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jkj3Buhfi2k

[4] Statement of Youth https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zeqI9axxrco

[5] Portrait by Chris Gore https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/3456311291101688

[6] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/2732067140192777

[7] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/876401569092686

[8] https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.115405983249621/121210252669194

[9] One Summer by Ben Pritchard, 1994 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RnGf69g6Igc

[10] Interview with Wedge Climbing, 2022 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DBmqm3VTrn4


Podcasts


Pics + Vids

Added at 17:01 on 13 January 2021
Added at 17:01 on 13 January 2021
Added at 16:01 on 19 January 2021
Added at 09:02 on 07 February 2021
Added at 08:02 on 26 February 2021
Added at 09:02 on 26 February 2021
Added at 22:02 on 27 February 2021
Added at 19:11 on 22 November 2021
Liquid Ambar (8c+, FA)
Added at 18:12 on 18 December 2020
Liquid Ambar (8c+, FA)
Added at 09:01 on 14 January 2021
The Phoenix (E7)
Added at 19:02 on 28 February 2021
White Wall (E5)
Added at 18:03 on 01 March 2021
Evolution (8c+, FA)
Added at 18:03 on 01 March 2021
Liquid Ambar (8c+, FA)
Added at 18:03 on 01 March 2021
Le Minimum (8c)
Added at 18:03 on 01 March 2021
The Face (8a+, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 16:08 on 25 August 2021
Renegade Master (E8, FA)
Added at 07:11 on 01 November 2021
Ulysses' Bow (E6, FA)
Added at 09:02 on 27 February 2021
Papy on Sight (7c+)
Added at 09:02 on 27 February 2021
Chouca (8a+)
Added at 09:02 on 27 February 2021
Thriller (7C+)
Added at 09:02 on 27 February 2021
Kingdom Come (E5)
Added at 18:02 on 25 February 2021
Master's Wall (E7, FA)
Added at 08:02 on 26 February 2021
Super Imujin (E6)
Added at 17:02 on 26 February 2021
Liquid Ambar (8c+, FA)
Added at 22:02 on 27 February 2021
Master's Wall (E7, FA)
Added at 15:10 on 11 October 2021
La Bérézina (7C)
Added at 17:02 on 26 February 2021
Papy on Sight (7c+)
Added at 10:11 on 24 November 2021
White Wall (E5)
Added at 17:02 on 26 February 2021
Stone Love (8b+, FA)
Added at 17:02 on 26 February 2021
Chouca (8a+)
Added at 17:02 on 26 February 2021
Dominator (8A+, FA)
Added at 18:03 on 01 March 2021
To Bolt or Not to Be (8b+)
Added at 13:02 on 06 February 2022

Ascents

45 recorded ascents.

This timeline is missing some ascents where the date of the ascent is unknown. Use the other tabs to view these ascents.
Year Climb Grade FA Ascent Date
1980 White Wall E5 (Lead) 01 Jan 1980 (approx)

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/2656362574429901

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/430864846979696

1981
1982 Rooster Booster 7c+ (Lead) 01 Jan 1982 (approx)

First free ascent. In it's incarnation as an aid route it was known as The Cambridge Bolt Route.

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116578176465735/116578313132388

Little Plum 8a (Lead) 01 Jan 1982 (approx)

Jerry recounts that a will to impress a passing Dougie Hall and Kim Carrigan provided the extra motivation he needed to climb the route.

Jerry had previously climbed the first pitch in 1981. He then completed the second pitch in 1982.

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116578176465735/116578389799047

The Storm 7b+ (Lead) 01 Feb 1982 (approx)

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116578176465735/116578286465724

1983 Masterclass 8a (Lead) 01 Jan 1983 (approx)
The Face 8a+ (Lead) 01 Jan 1983 (approx)

https://www.instagram.com/p/CQq-cfXjVKB/

Right Wall E5 (Solo) 01 Jan 1983 (approx)
Linden E6 (Solo Onsight) 01 Jan 1983 (approx)
Master's Wall E7 (Lead) 01 Jan 1983 (approx)

In that photo [see [2]] I am absolutely climbing to save my life. I'm out of control, it's way harder than I thought, I didn't want to be there and I'm absolutely terrified.

...

You get to some footholds where you can stand and get some RPs behind these little flakes...all I was thinking was "I need to get rescued, I need to get rescued". The I got there, got the wires in, settled down...I just told myself "I never want to climb that bottom bit again, I'm here now and I've got these wires in". The crux was above here but I'd sussed those moves on abseil...so I stood there for a while and thought "let's just go for it".

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/3446194975446653

[2] https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116371059819780/116371949819691

[3] Interview with Niall Grimes on Jam Crack Podcast, March 2022 http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt

Sole Power 7C (Boulder) 01 Jan 1983 (approx)
Genocide E6 (Lead) 01 Jan 1983 (approx)

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116578176465735/116579986465554

Zero E7 (Lead Flash) 01 Jan 1983 (approx)

Third ascent shortly after Andy Pollitt's second ascent making use of the fact that the route was cleaned and chalked. Nonetheless a very impressive flash.

Ulysses' Bow E6 (Solo) 14 Apr 1983

Solo after top rope practice.

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116578176465735/116579829798903.

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/1557591667640336

1984 Polpot 7c (Lead Onsight) 01 Jan 1984 (approx)
The Phoenix E7 (Lead Flash) 01 Jan 1984 (approx)

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/462380993828081

Orange Sunshine 7c+ (Lead) 01 Jan 1984 (approx)
Chimpanzodrome 7c+ (Lead Flash) 18 Mar 1984

On his 21st birthday.

Revelations (Pre-1999) 8a+ (Lead) 01 Aug 1984 (approx)

The start has gotten harder over time. Originally 8a+.

1985
1986
1987
1988 La Rage de Vivre 8b+ (Lead) 01 Jan 1988 (approx)

Second ascent?

Le Minimum 8c (Lead) 01 Jan 1988 (approx)

Third ascent.

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/288817811184401

Stone Love 8b+ (Lead) 01 Jan 1988 (approx)

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/2482152265184267

Scarface 8b+ (Lead) 01 Mar 1988 (approx)

The Power of Climbing (1991) by David Jones, page 192

White Wedding 8b+ (Lead) 01 Apr 1988 (approx)

Completing the trilogy of 8b+'s at Smith within a 1 month trip. (Source: Revelations)

To Bolt or Not to Be 8b+ (Lead) 01 May 1988 (approx)

Believed 3rd ascent (after Scott Franklin's 2nd).

1989 Zoolook 8a (Lead Onsight) 01 Jun 1989 (approx)

https://open.spotify.com/episode/3kuxcMcqhNtNWWrfXXkGDL

1990 Liquid Ambar 8c+ (Lead) 30 Mar 1990

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jkj3Buhfi2k&t=3224s

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/641168632615982

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/402010799865101

1991
1992
1993 Dominator 8A+ (Boulder) 01 Jan 1993 (approx)

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/421353737930807

1994
1995 Progress (pre-hold break) 8c (Lead) 01 Jan 1995 (approx)
Renegade Master E8 (Lead) 01 Jan 1995 (approx)

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/4537003366365803/

Evolution 8c+ (Lead) 13 May 1995

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/411589388907242

1996 The Joker 8A (Boulder) 01 Jan 1996 (approx)
1997
1998
1999
2000
2001
2002 The Ace 8B (Boulder) 01 Jan 2002 (approx)
Climb Grade FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Liquid Ambar 8c+ (Lead) 30 Mar 1990

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jkj3Buhfi2k&t=3224s

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/641168632615982

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/402010799865101

Evolution 8c+ (Lead) 13 May 1995

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/411589388907242

Progress (pre-hold break) 8c (Lead) 01 Jan 1995 (approx)
Le Minimum 8c (Lead) 01 Jan 1988 (approx)

Third ascent.

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/288817811184401

Stone Love 8b+ (Lead) 01 Jan 1988 (approx)

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/2482152265184267

La Rage de Vivre 8b+ (Lead) 01 Jan 1988 (approx)

Second ascent?

Scarface 8b+ (Lead) 01 Mar 1988 (approx)

The Power of Climbing (1991) by David Jones, page 192

White Wedding 8b+ (Lead) 01 Apr 1988 (approx)

Completing the trilogy of 8b+'s at Smith within a 1 month trip. (Source: Revelations)

To Bolt or Not to Be 8b+ (Lead) 01 May 1988 (approx)

Believed 3rd ascent (after Scott Franklin's 2nd).

Punks in the Gym 8b+ (Lead)

Second ascent.

Zeke the Freak 8b (Lead)

Pre-1991. [1]

[1] The Power of Climbing (1991) by David Jones, page 192

Les Mains Sales 8b (Lead)

Pre-1991. [1]

[1] The Power of Climbing (1991) by David Jones, page 192

The Face 8a+ (Lead) 01 Jan 1983 (approx)

https://www.instagram.com/p/CQq-cfXjVKB/

Revelations (Pre-1999) 8a+ (Lead) 01 Aug 1984 (approx)

The start has gotten harder over time. Originally 8a+.

Chouca 8a+ (Lead)

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/2416302841769210

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/1444484248951079

Little Plum 8a (Lead) 01 Jan 1982 (approx)

Jerry recounts that a will to impress a passing Dougie Hall and Kim Carrigan provided the extra motivation he needed to climb the route.

Jerry had previously climbed the first pitch in 1981. He then completed the second pitch in 1982.

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116578176465735/116578389799047

Masterclass 8a (Lead) 01 Jan 1983 (approx)
Zoolook 8a (Lead Onsight) 01 Jun 1989 (approx)

https://open.spotify.com/episode/3kuxcMcqhNtNWWrfXXkGDL

Rooster Booster 7c+ (Lead) 01 Jan 1982 (approx)

First free ascent. In it's incarnation as an aid route it was known as The Cambridge Bolt Route.

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116578176465735/116578313132388

Orange Sunshine 7c+ (Lead) 01 Jan 1984 (approx)
Chimpanzodrome 7c+ (Lead Flash) 18 Mar 1984

On his 21st birthday.

Papy on Sight 7c+ (Lead)

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/1470798709652966

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/4612848935447912/

Polpot 7c (Lead Onsight) 01 Jan 1984 (approx)
The Storm 7b+ (Lead) 01 Feb 1982 (approx)

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116578176465735/116578286465724

Climb Grade FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade
The Ace 8B (Boulder) 01 Jan 2002 (approx)
Zero 8B (Lead Flash)

Third ascent.

Voyager 8B (Boulder)
Dominator 8A+ (Boulder) 01 Jan 1993 (approx)

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/421353737930807

The Joker 8A (Boulder) 01 Jan 1996 (approx)
Thriller 7C+ (Boulder)

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/964820103584165

Sole Power 7C (Boulder) 01 Jan 1983 (approx)
Powerband 7C (Boulder)
La Bérézina 7C (Boulder)

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/2691794597553365

Climb Grade FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Renegade Master E8 (Lead) 01 Jan 1995 (approx)

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/4537003366365803/

Master's Wall E7 (Lead) 01 Jan 1983 (approx)

In that photo [see [2]] I am absolutely climbing to save my life. I'm out of control, it's way harder than I thought, I didn't want to be there and I'm absolutely terrified.

...

You get to some footholds where you can stand and get some RPs behind these little flakes...all I was thinking was "I need to get rescued, I need to get rescued". The I got there, got the wires in, settled down...I just told myself "I never want to climb that bottom bit again, I'm here now and I've got these wires in". The crux was above here but I'd sussed those moves on abseil...so I stood there for a while and thought "let's just go for it".

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/3446194975446653

[2] https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116371059819780/116371949819691

[3] Interview with Niall Grimes on Jam Crack Podcast, March 2022 http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt

Zero E7 (Lead Flash) 01 Jan 1983 (approx)

Third ascent shortly after Andy Pollitt's second ascent making use of the fact that the route was cleaned and chalked. Nonetheless a very impressive flash.

The Phoenix E7 (Lead Flash) 01 Jan 1984 (approx)

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/462380993828081

Genocide E6 (Lead) 01 Jan 1983 (approx)

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116578176465735/116579986465554

Ulysses' Bow E6 (Solo) 14 Apr 1983

Solo after top rope practice.

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116578176465735/116579829798903.

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/1557591667640336

Psyche 'n' Burn E6 (Lead)

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.115298749927011/115300749926811

Linden E6 (Solo Onsight) 01 Jan 1983 (approx)
Super Imujin E6 (Lead)

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/2679994322066726

White Wall E5 (Lead) 01 Jan 1980 (approx)

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/2656362574429901

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/430864846979696

Right Wall E5 (Solo) 01 Jan 1983 (approx)
Kingdom Come E5 (Lead)

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/278657725533743

Climb Grade FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade