Jerry Moffatt
Quick Info ˅
| Nationality: | GB |
| Date of birth: | 18 March 1963 |
| Hardest Boulder (Worked): | 8B |
| Hardest Boulder (Flash): | 8B |
| Hardest Sport (Worked): | 8c+ |
| Hardest Sport (Onsight): | 8a |
| Hardest Sport (Flash): | 7c+ |
| Hardest Trad (Worked): | E8 |
| Hardest Trad (Onsight): | E6 |
| Hardest Trad (Flash): | E7 |
| Notable Partnerships | |
| Ben Moon | |
| Malcolm Smith | |
| Neil Molnar | |
| Kurt Albert | |
| Wolfgang Güllich | |
Jerry Moffatt was at the forefront of british climbing form the early eighties to mid-nineties. Along with Ben Moon Jerry established many hard firsts in the UK, Germany, France and USA including historic ascents such as The Face, Revelations and Liquid Ambar, all at the cutting edge of difficulty at the time they were established.
Jerry was an early proponent of bouldering in it's own right. From early ascents on The Bowderstone he went on to put up a host of hard classics such as The Ace at Stanage and Dominator in Yosemite.
References
[1] The Real Thing https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=brbxoKEgsw0
[2] Stone Love https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FguueX9jM78
[3] 80's Birth of Extreme https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jkj3Buhfi2k
[4] Statement of Youth https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zeqI9axxrco
[5] Portrait by Chris Gore https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/3456311291101688
[6] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/2732067140192777
[7] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/876401569092686
[8] https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.115405983249621/121210252669194
[9] One Summer by Ben Pritchard, 1994 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RnGf69g6Igc
[10] Interview with Wedge Climbing, 2022 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DBmqm3VTrn4
Podcasts
Pics + Vids
Liquid Ambar (8c+, FA)
Liquid Ambar (8c+, FA)
The Phoenix (E7)
White Wall (E5)
Evolution (8c+, FA)
Liquid Ambar (8c+, FA)
Le Minimum (8c)
Renegade Master (E8, FA)
Ulysses' Bow (E6, FA)
Papy on Sight (7c+)
Chouca (8a+)
Thriller (7C+)
Kingdom Come (E5)
Master's Wall (E7, FA)
Super Imujin (E6)
Liquid Ambar (8c+, FA)
Master's Wall (E7, FA)
La Bérézina (7C)
Papy on Sight (7c+)
White Wall (E5)
Stone Love (8b+, FA)
Chouca (8a+)
Dominator (8A+, FA)
To Bolt or Not to Be (8b+)
Ascents
45 recorded ascents.
| Year | Climb | Grade | FA | Ascent Date |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1980 | White Wall | E5 (Lead) | 01 Jan 1980 (approx) | |
|
https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/2656362574429901 https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/430864846979696 |
||||
| 1981 | ||||
| 1982 | Rooster Booster | 7c+ (Lead) | ✓ | 01 Jan 1982 (approx) |
|
First free ascent. In it's incarnation as an aid route it was known as The Cambridge Bolt Route. https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116578176465735/116578313132388 |
||||
| Little Plum | 8a (Lead) | ✓ | 01 Jan 1982 (approx) | |
|
Jerry recounts that a will to impress a passing Dougie Hall and Kim Carrigan provided the extra motivation he needed to climb the route. Jerry had previously climbed the first pitch in 1981. He then completed the second pitch in 1982. https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116578176465735/116578389799047 |
||||
| The Storm | 7b+ (Lead) | ✓ | 01 Feb 1982 (approx) | |
|
https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116578176465735/116578286465724 |
||||
| 1983 | Masterclass | 8a (Lead) | ✓ | 01 Jan 1983 (approx) |
| The Face | 8a+ (Lead) | ✓ | 01 Jan 1983 (approx) | |
| Right Wall | E5 (Solo) | 01 Jan 1983 (approx) | ||
| Linden | E6 (Solo Onsight) | 01 Jan 1983 (approx) | ||
| Master's Wall | E7 (Lead) | ✓ | 01 Jan 1983 (approx) | |
References[1] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/3446194975446653 [2] https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116371059819780/116371949819691 [3] Interview with Niall Grimes on Jam Crack Podcast, March 2022 http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt |
||||
| Sole Power | 7C (Boulder) | ✓ | 01 Jan 1983 (approx) | |
| Genocide | E6 (Lead) | ✓ | 01 Jan 1983 (approx) | |
|
https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116578176465735/116579986465554 |
||||
| Zero | E7 (Lead Flash) | 01 Jan 1983 (approx) | ||
|
Third ascent shortly after Andy Pollitt's second ascent making use of the fact that the route was cleaned and chalked. Nonetheless a very impressive flash. |
||||
| Ulysses' Bow | E6 (Solo) | ✓ | 14 Apr 1983 | |
|
Solo after top rope practice. https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116578176465735/116579829798903. https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/1557591667640336 |
||||
| 1984 | Polpot | 7c (Lead Onsight) | 01 Jan 1984 (approx) | |
| The Phoenix | E7 (Lead Flash) | 01 Jan 1984 (approx) | ||
|
https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/462380993828081 |
||||
| Orange Sunshine | 7c+ (Lead) | ✓ | 01 Jan 1984 (approx) | |
| Chimpanzodrome | 7c+ (Lead Flash) | 18 Mar 1984 | ||
|
On his 21st birthday. |
||||
| Revelations (Pre-1999) | 8a+ (Lead) | ✓ | 01 Aug 1984 (approx) | |
|
The start has gotten harder over time. Originally 8a+. |
||||
| 1985 | ||||
| 1986 | ||||
| 1987 | ||||
| 1988 | La Rage de Vivre | 8b+ (Lead) | 01 Jan 1988 (approx) | |
|
Second ascent? |
||||
| Le Minimum | 8c (Lead) | 01 Jan 1988 (approx) | ||
|
Third ascent. https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/288817811184401 |
||||
| Stone Love | 8b+ (Lead) | ✓ | 01 Jan 1988 (approx) | |
|
https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/2482152265184267 |
||||
| Scarface | 8b+ (Lead) | 01 Mar 1988 (approx) | ||
|
The Power of Climbing (1991) by David Jones, page 192 |
||||
| White Wedding | 8b+ (Lead) | 01 Apr 1988 (approx) | ||
|
Completing the trilogy of 8b+'s at Smith within a 1 month trip. (Source: Revelations) |
||||
| To Bolt or Not to Be | 8b+ (Lead) | 01 May 1988 (approx) | ||
|
Believed 3rd ascent (after Scott Franklin's 2nd). |
||||
| 1989 | Zoolook | 8a (Lead Onsight) | 01 Jun 1989 (approx) | |
| 1990 | Liquid Ambar | 8c+ (Lead) | ✓ | 30 Mar 1990 |
|
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jkj3Buhfi2k&t=3224s https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/641168632615982 https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/402010799865101 |
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| 1991 | ||||
| 1992 | ||||
| 1993 | Dominator | 8A+ (Boulder) | ✓ | 01 Jan 1993 (approx) |
|
https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/421353737930807 |
||||
| 1994 | ||||
| 1995 | Progress (pre-hold break) | 8c (Lead) | ✓ | 01 Jan 1995 (approx) |
| Renegade Master | E8 (Lead) | ✓ | 01 Jan 1995 (approx) | |
|
https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/4537003366365803/ |
||||
| Evolution | 8c+ (Lead) | ✓ | 13 May 1995 | |
|
https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/411589388907242 |
||||
| 1996 | The Joker | 8A (Boulder) | ✓ | 01 Jan 1996 (approx) |
| 1997 | ||||
| 1998 | ||||
| 1999 | ||||
| 2000 | ||||
| 2001 | ||||
| 2002 | The Ace | 8B (Boulder) | ✓ | 01 Jan 2002 (approx) |
| Climb | Grade | FA | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Liquid Ambar | 8c+ (Lead) | ✓ | 30 Mar 1990 | |
|
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jkj3Buhfi2k&t=3224s https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/641168632615982 https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/402010799865101 |
||||
| Evolution | 8c+ (Lead) | ✓ | 13 May 1995 | |
|
https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/411589388907242 |
||||
| Progress (pre-hold break) | 8c (Lead) | ✓ | 01 Jan 1995 (approx) | |
| Le Minimum | 8c (Lead) | 01 Jan 1988 (approx) | ||
|
Third ascent. https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/288817811184401 |
||||
| Stone Love | 8b+ (Lead) | ✓ | 01 Jan 1988 (approx) | |
|
https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/2482152265184267 |
||||
| La Rage de Vivre | 8b+ (Lead) | 01 Jan 1988 (approx) | ||
|
Second ascent? |
||||
| Scarface | 8b+ (Lead) | 01 Mar 1988 (approx) | ||
|
The Power of Climbing (1991) by David Jones, page 192 |
||||
| White Wedding | 8b+ (Lead) | 01 Apr 1988 (approx) | ||
|
Completing the trilogy of 8b+'s at Smith within a 1 month trip. (Source: Revelations) |
||||
| To Bolt or Not to Be | 8b+ (Lead) | 01 May 1988 (approx) | ||
|
Believed 3rd ascent (after Scott Franklin's 2nd). |
||||
| Punks in the Gym | 8b+ (Lead) | |||
|
Second ascent. |
||||
| Zeke the Freak | 8b (Lead) | |||
|
Pre-1991. [1] [1] The Power of Climbing (1991) by David Jones, page 192 |
||||
| Les Mains Sales | 8b (Lead) | |||
|
Pre-1991. [1] [1] The Power of Climbing (1991) by David Jones, page 192 |
||||
| The Face | 8a+ (Lead) | ✓ | 01 Jan 1983 (approx) | |
| Revelations (Pre-1999) | 8a+ (Lead) | ✓ | 01 Aug 1984 (approx) | |
|
The start has gotten harder over time. Originally 8a+. |
||||
| Chouca | 8a+ (Lead) | |||
|
https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/2416302841769210 https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/1444484248951079 |
||||
| Little Plum | 8a (Lead) | ✓ | 01 Jan 1982 (approx) | |
|
Jerry recounts that a will to impress a passing Dougie Hall and Kim Carrigan provided the extra motivation he needed to climb the route. Jerry had previously climbed the first pitch in 1981. He then completed the second pitch in 1982. https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116578176465735/116578389799047 |
||||
| Masterclass | 8a (Lead) | ✓ | 01 Jan 1983 (approx) | |
| Zoolook | 8a (Lead Onsight) | 01 Jun 1989 (approx) | ||
| Rooster Booster | 7c+ (Lead) | ✓ | 01 Jan 1982 (approx) | |
|
First free ascent. In it's incarnation as an aid route it was known as The Cambridge Bolt Route. https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116578176465735/116578313132388 |
||||
| Orange Sunshine | 7c+ (Lead) | ✓ | 01 Jan 1984 (approx) | |
| Chimpanzodrome | 7c+ (Lead Flash) | 18 Mar 1984 | ||
|
On his 21st birthday. |
||||
| Papy on Sight | 7c+ (Lead) | |||
|
https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/1470798709652966 https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/4612848935447912/ |
||||
| Polpot | 7c (Lead Onsight) | 01 Jan 1984 (approx) | ||
| The Storm | 7b+ (Lead) | ✓ | 01 Feb 1982 (approx) | |
|
https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116578176465735/116578286465724 |
||||
| Climb | Grade | FA | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| The Ace | 8B (Boulder) | ✓ | 01 Jan 2002 (approx) | |
| Zero | 8B (Lead Flash) | |||
|
Third ascent. |
||||
| Voyager | 8B (Boulder) | |||
| Dominator | 8A+ (Boulder) | ✓ | 01 Jan 1993 (approx) | |
|
https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/421353737930807 |
||||
| The Joker | 8A (Boulder) | ✓ | 01 Jan 1996 (approx) | |
| Thriller | 7C+ (Boulder) | |||
|
https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/964820103584165 |
||||
| Sole Power | 7C (Boulder) | ✓ | 01 Jan 1983 (approx) | |
| Powerband | 7C (Boulder) | ✓ | ||
| La Bérézina | 7C (Boulder) | |||
|
https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/2691794597553365 |
||||
| Climb | Grade | FA | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Renegade Master | E8 (Lead) | ✓ | 01 Jan 1995 (approx) | |
|
https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/4537003366365803/ |
||||
| Master's Wall | E7 (Lead) | ✓ | 01 Jan 1983 (approx) | |
References[1] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/3446194975446653 [2] https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116371059819780/116371949819691 [3] Interview with Niall Grimes on Jam Crack Podcast, March 2022 http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt |
||||
| Zero | E7 (Lead Flash) | 01 Jan 1983 (approx) | ||
|
Third ascent shortly after Andy Pollitt's second ascent making use of the fact that the route was cleaned and chalked. Nonetheless a very impressive flash. |
||||
| The Phoenix | E7 (Lead Flash) | 01 Jan 1984 (approx) | ||
|
https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/462380993828081 |
||||
| Genocide | E6 (Lead) | ✓ | 01 Jan 1983 (approx) | |
|
https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116578176465735/116579986465554 |
||||
| Ulysses' Bow | E6 (Solo) | ✓ | 14 Apr 1983 | |
|
Solo after top rope practice. https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116578176465735/116579829798903. https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/1557591667640336 |
||||
| Psyche 'n' Burn | E6 (Lead) | ✓ | ||
|
https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.115298749927011/115300749926811 |
||||
| Linden | E6 (Solo Onsight) | 01 Jan 1983 (approx) | ||
| Super Imujin | E6 (Lead) | |||
|
https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/2679994322066726 |
||||
| White Wall | E5 (Lead) | 01 Jan 1980 (approx) | ||
|
https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/2656362574429901 https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/430864846979696 |
||||
| Right Wall | E5 (Solo) | 01 Jan 1983 (approx) | ||
| Kingdom Come | E5 (Lead) | |||
|
https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/278657725533743 |
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| Climb | Grade | FA | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
|---|