Jerry Moffatt


Quick Info

Nationality: GB
Date of birth: 18th March 1963
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8B
Hardest Sport (Worked): 8c+
Hardest Sport (Onsight): 8a
Hardest Sport (Flash): 7c+
Hardest Trad (Worked): E8
Hardest Trad (Onsight): E6
Hardest Trad (Flash): E7
Notable Partnerships
Ben Moon
Malcolm Smith
Neil Molnar
Kurt Albert
Wolfgang Güllich

Jerry Moffatt was at the forefront of british climbing form the early eighties to mid-nineties. Along with Ben Moon Jerry established many hard firsts in the UK, Germany, France and USA including historic ascents such as The Face, Revelations and Liquid Ambar, all at the cutting edge of difficulty at the time they were established.

Jerry was an early proponent of bouldering in it's own right. From early ascents on The Bowderstone he went on to put up a host of hard classics such as The Ace at Stanage and Dominator in Yosemite.

References

[1] The Real Thing https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=brbxoKEgsw0

[2] Stone Love https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FguueX9jM78

[3] 80's Birth of Extreme https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jkj3Buhfi2k

[4] Statement of Youth https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zeqI9axxrco

[5] Portrait by Chris Gore https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/3456311291101688

[6] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/2732067140192777

[7] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/876401569092686

[8] https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.115405983249621/121210252669194

[9] One Summer by Ben Pritchard, 1994 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RnGf69g6Igc

[10] Interview with Wedge Climbing, 2022 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DBmqm3VTrn4

Quick Info

Nationality: GB
Date of birth: 18th March 1963
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8B
Hardest Sport (Worked): 8c+
Hardest Sport (Onsight): 8a
Hardest Sport (Flash): 7c+
Hardest Trad (Worked): E8
Hardest Trad (Onsight): E6
Hardest Trad (Flash): E7
Notable Partnerships
Ben Moon
Malcolm Smith
Neil Molnar
Kurt Albert
Wolfgang Güllich

Jerry Moffatt was at the forefront of british climbing form the early eighties to mid-nineties. Along with Ben Moon Jerry established many hard firsts in the UK, Germany, France and USA including historic ascents such as The Face, Revelations and Liquid Ambar, all at the cutting edge of difficulty at the time they were established.

Jerry was an early proponent of bouldering in it's own right. From early ascents on The Bowderstone he went on to put up a host of hard classics such as The Ace at Stanage and Dominator in Yosemite.

References

[1] The Real Thing https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=brbxoKEgsw0

[2] Stone Love https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FguueX9jM78

[3] 80's Birth of Extreme https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jkj3Buhfi2k

[4] Statement of Youth https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zeqI9axxrco

[5] Portrait by Chris Gore https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/3456311291101688

[6] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/2732067140192777

[7] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/876401569092686

[8] https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.115405983249621/121210252669194

[9] One Summer by Ben Pritchard, 1994 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RnGf69g6Igc

[10] Interview with Wedge Climbing, 2022 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DBmqm3VTrn4


Podcasts


Pics + Vids

Added at 17:01 on 13 January 2021
Added at 17:01 on 13 January 2021
Added at 16:01 on 19 January 2021
Added at 09:02 on 07 February 2021
Added at 08:02 on 26 February 2021
Added at 09:02 on 26 February 2021
Added at 22:02 on 27 February 2021
Added at 09:05 on 15 May 2022
Added at 21:09 on 16 September 2022
Added at 19:11 on 22 November 2021
To Bolt or Not to Be (8b+)
Added at 13:02 on 06 February 2022
Thriller (7C+)
Added at 09:02 on 27 February 2021
La Bérézina (7C)
Added at 17:02 on 26 February 2021
Kingdom Come (E5)
Added at 18:02 on 25 February 2021
Chouca (8a+)
Added at 09:02 on 27 February 2021
Dominator (8A+, FA)
Added at 18:03 on 01 March 2021
The Ace (8B, FA)
Added at 13:09 on 26 September 2022
Ulysses' Bow (E6, FA)
Added at 09:02 on 27 February 2021
The Face (8a+, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 16:08 on 25 August 2021
Stone Love (8b+, FA)
Added at 17:02 on 26 February 2021
White Wall (E5)
Added at 17:02 on 26 February 2021
White Wall (E5)
Added at 18:03 on 01 March 2021
Evolution (8c+, FA)
Added at 18:03 on 01 March 2021
The Phoenix (E7)
Added at 19:02 on 28 February 2021
Le Minimum (8c)
Added at 18:03 on 01 March 2021
Master's Wall (E7, FA)
Added at 15:10 on 11 October 2021
Master's Wall (E7, FA)
Added at 08:02 on 26 February 2021
Papy on Sight (7c+, FA)
Added at 09:02 on 27 February 2021
Papy on Sight (7c+, FA)
Added at 10:11 on 24 November 2021
Super Imujin (E6)
Added at 17:02 on 26 February 2021
Renegade Master (E8, FA)
Added at 07:11 on 01 November 2021
Liquid Ambar (8c+, FA)
Added at 18:03 on 01 March 2021
Liquid Ambar (8c+, FA)
Added at 22:02 on 27 February 2021
Liquid Ambar (8c+, FA)
Added at 18:12 on 18 December 2020
Liquid Ambar (8c+, FA)
Added at 09:01 on 14 January 2021

Ascents

71 recorded ascents.

This timeline is missing some ascents where the date of the ascent is unknown. Use the other tabs to view these ascents.
Year Climb Grade FA Ascent Date
1980 White Wall E5 (Lead) 1980

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/2656362574429901

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/430864846979696

1981 Psyche 'n' Burn E6 (Lead) 1981

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.115298749927011/115300749926811

1982 Tequila Mockingbird 7c+ (Lead) 1982

Second ascent.

Indecent Exposure 7c (Lead) 1982

Second ascent.

Little Plum 8a (Lead) 1982

Jerry recounts that a will to impress a passing Dougie Hall and Kim Carrigan provided the extra motivation he needed to climb the route.

Jerry had previously climbed the first pitch in 1981. He then completed the second pitch in 1982.

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116578176465735/116578389799047

Rooster Booster 7c+ (Lead) 1982

First free ascent. In it's incarnation as an aid route it was known as The Cambridge Bolt Route.

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116578176465735/116578313132388

The Prow 8a (Lead) 1982

Second ascent.

The Storm 7b+ (Lead) February 1982

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116578176465735/116578286465724

1983 Zero E7 (Lead Flash) 1983

Third ascent shortly after Andy Pollitt's second ascent making use of the fact that the route was cleaned and chalked. Nonetheless a very impressive flash.

Ekel 7c+ (Lead) 1st January 1983
Chasin' the Train 7c (Lead) 1983
Slapstick 7C (Boulder) 1983
Inaudible Vaudeville 7B+ (Boulder) 1983
Impropa Opera 7C (Boulder) 1983
Picnic Sarcastic 7A+ (Boulder) 1983
Genocide E6 (Lead) 1983

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116578176465735/116579986465554

Masterclass 8a (Lead) 1983
The Face 8a+ (Lead) 1983

https://www.instagram.com/p/CQq-cfXjVKB/

Linden E6 (Solo Onsight) 1983
Ulysses' Bow E6 (Solo) 14th April 1983

Solo after top rope practice.

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116578176465735/116579829798903.

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/1557591667640336

Sole Power 7C (Boulder) 2nd June 1983
Master's Wall E7 (Lead) 14th July 1983

In that photo [see [2]] I am absolutely climbing to save my life. I'm out of control, it's way harder than I thought, I didn't want to be there and I'm absolutely terrified.

...

You get to some footholds where you can stand and get some RPs behind these little flakes...all I was thinking was "I need to get rescued, I need to get rescued". The I got there, got the wires in, settled down...I just told myself "I never want to climb that bottom bit again, I'm here now and I've got these wires in". The crux was above here but I'd sussed those moves on abseil...so I stood there for a while and thought "let's just go for it".

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/3446194975446653

[2] https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116371059819780/116371949819691

[3] Interview with Niall Grimes on Jam Crack Podcast, March 2022 http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt

Cenotaph Corner E1 (Solo Repeat) 15th July 1983
Left Wall E2 (Solo Repeat) 15th July 1983
Cemetry Gates E1 (Solo Repeat) 15th July 1983
Right Wall E5 (Solo) 15th July 1983
Foil E3 (Solo Repeat) 15th July 1983
Memory Lane E3 (Solo Repeat) 15th July 1983
Oyster 8a (Lead) August 1983
1984 The Phoenix E7 (Lead Flash) 1984

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/462380993828081

Midnight Lightning 7B (Boulder) 1984

The first ascent in a day.

Super Imujin E6 (Lead Flash) 1984

Japan's hardest route at the time.

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/2679994322066726

Verbal Abuse E7 (Lead) 1984
Papy on Sight 7c+ (Lead) 1984

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/1470798709652966

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/4612848935447912/

Le Bidule 8a+ (Lead) 1984
Orange Sunshine 7c+ (Lead) 1984
Messiah E7 (Lead) 1984
Polpot 7c (Lead Onsight) 1984
Chimpanzodrome 7c+ (Lead Flash) 18th March 1984

On his 21st birthday.

Revelations (Pre-1999) 8a+ (Lead) August 1984

The start has gotten harder over time. Originally 8a+.

1985
1986
1987 Ghettoblaster 8b (Lead) 1987
Le Minimum 8c (Lead) 1987

Third ascent.

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/288817811184401

La Rage de Vivre 8b+ (Lead) 1987

Second ascent?

1988 Le Spectre du Sur-Mutant 8b+ (Lead) 1988
Stone Love 8b+ (Lead) 1988

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/2482152265184267

Scarface 8b+ (Lead) March 1988

The Power of Climbing (1991) by David Jones, page 192

White Wedding 8b+ (Lead) April 1988

Completing the trilogy of 8b+'s at Smith within a 1 month trip. (Source: Revelations)

To Bolt or Not to Be 8b+ (Lead) May 1988

Believed 3rd ascent (after Scott Franklin's 2nd).

Slingshot 7C+ (Top Rope) December 1988

Climbed on top rope as pads were yet to be invented.

1989 Zoolook 8a (Lead Onsight) June 1989

https://open.spotify.com/episode/3kuxcMcqhNtNWWrfXXkGDL

1990 Liquid Ambar 8c+ (Lead) 30th March 1990

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jkj3Buhfi2k&t=3224s

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/641168632615982

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/402010799865101

1991 Zeke the Freak 8b (Lead) Before 1st January 1991

Pre-1991. [1]

References

[1] The Power of Climbing (1991) by David Jones, page 192

Les Mains Sales 8b (Lead) Before 1st January 1991

Pre-1991. [1]

[1] The Power of Climbing (1991) by David Jones, page 192

1992 Punks in the Gym 8b+ (Lead) 1992

Second ascent.

Serpentine 8a (Lead Onsight) 1992
1993 Dominator 8A+ (Boulder) 1993

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/421353737930807

1994
1995 Progress (pre-hold break) 8c (Lead) 1995
Renegade Master E8 (Lead) 1995

With pre-placed gear so that it could be clipped more easily on the lead.

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/4537003366365803/

Evolution 8c+ (Lead) 13th May 1995

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/411589388907242

Sean's Roof 8A+ (Lead) August 1995
1996 The Joker 8A (Boulder) 1996
1997 Samson 8A (Lead) 1997
1998
1999
2000
2001 The Ace 8B (Boulder) 2001

Various dates between 2000 and 2002 have been reported for the first ascent. It was reported in On The Edge #105 (March 2001 edition) which suggests it was done around January 2001 [4].

If the truth be known, it had been my goal for the last three years; either I'd just not been in good enough shape to try it, or the conditions were not right. As soon as I started trying The Ace everybody who had done The Joker was attempting it this way, which added to the pressure. My advantage was that I felt good on The Joker. If I could just get in to the top moves feeling strong, I knew i could do it. My sequence didn't feel right though and I was intrigued to find out about an alternative sequence Ben Moon had been trying. First chance I had I went straight back to the crag and tried his method. I hit the top second go but couldn't hold it. The friction wasn't good that day, but I returned in better conditions and for it done. [5]

References

[1] Revelations by Jerry Moffatt and Niall Grimes, 2009. Page 225.

[2] Peak Rock by Phil Kelly, Graham Hoey and Giles Barker, 2013. Page 310.

[3] https://www.climber.co.uk/news/dave-mason-repeats-the-ace/

[4] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,33255.msg666546.html#msg666546

[5] Climber magazine

2002
Climb Grade FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Liquid Ambar 8c+ (Lead) 30th March 1990 8c

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jkj3Buhfi2k&t=3224s

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/641168632615982

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/402010799865101

Evolution 8c+ (Lead) 13th May 1995

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/411589388907242

Progress (pre-hold break) 8c (Lead) 1995
Le Minimum 8c (Lead) 1987

Third ascent.

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/288817811184401

Stone Love 8b+ (Lead) 1988

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/2482152265184267

La Rage de Vivre 8b+ (Lead) 1987

Second ascent?

Le Spectre du Sur-Mutant 8b+ (Lead) 1988
Scarface 8b+ (Lead) March 1988

The Power of Climbing (1991) by David Jones, page 192

White Wedding 8b+ (Lead) April 1988

Completing the trilogy of 8b+'s at Smith within a 1 month trip. (Source: Revelations)

To Bolt or Not to Be 8b+ (Lead) May 1988

Believed 3rd ascent (after Scott Franklin's 2nd).

Punks in the Gym 8b+ (Lead) 1992

Second ascent.

Ghettoblaster 8b (Lead) 1987
Zeke the Freak 8b (Lead) Before 1st January 1991

Pre-1991. [1]

References

[1] The Power of Climbing (1991) by David Jones, page 192

Les Mains Sales 8b (Lead) Before 1st January 1991

Pre-1991. [1]

[1] The Power of Climbing (1991) by David Jones, page 192

The Face 8a+ (Lead) 1983

https://www.instagram.com/p/CQq-cfXjVKB/

Revelations (Pre-1999) 8a+ (Lead) August 1984

The start has gotten harder over time. Originally 8a+.

Le Bidule 8a+ (Lead) 1984
Chouca 8a+ (Lead)

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/2416302841769210

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/1444484248951079

Little Plum 8a (Lead) 1982

Jerry recounts that a will to impress a passing Dougie Hall and Kim Carrigan provided the extra motivation he needed to climb the route.

Jerry had previously climbed the first pitch in 1981. He then completed the second pitch in 1982.

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116578176465735/116578389799047

Masterclass 8a (Lead) 1983
Oyster 8a (Lead) August 1983
The Prow 8a (Lead) 1982

Second ascent.

Zoolook 8a (Lead Onsight) June 1989

https://open.spotify.com/episode/3kuxcMcqhNtNWWrfXXkGDL

Serpentine 8a (Lead Onsight) 1992
Rooster Booster 7c+ (Lead) 1982

First free ascent. In it's incarnation as an aid route it was known as The Cambridge Bolt Route.

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116578176465735/116578313132388

Orange Sunshine 7c+ (Lead) 1984
Papy on Sight 7c+ (Lead) 1984

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/1470798709652966

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/4612848935447912/

Tequila Mockingbird 7c+ (Lead) 1982

Second ascent.

Ekel 7c+ (Lead) 1st January 1983
Chimpanzodrome 7c+ (Lead Flash) 18th March 1984

On his 21st birthday.

Indecent Exposure 7c (Lead) 1982

Second ascent.

Chasin' the Train 7c (Lead) 1983
Polpot 7c (Lead Onsight) 1984
The Storm 7b+ (Lead) February 1982

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116578176465735/116578286465724

Climb Grade FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade
The Ace 8B (Boulder) 2001

Various dates between 2000 and 2002 have been reported for the first ascent. It was reported in On The Edge #105 (March 2001 edition) which suggests it was done around January 2001 [4].

If the truth be known, it had been my goal for the last three years; either I'd just not been in good enough shape to try it, or the conditions were not right. As soon as I started trying The Ace everybody who had done The Joker was attempting it this way, which added to the pressure. My advantage was that I felt good on The Joker. If I could just get in to the top moves feeling strong, I knew i could do it. My sequence didn't feel right though and I was intrigued to find out about an alternative sequence Ben Moon had been trying. First chance I had I went straight back to the crag and tried his method. I hit the top second go but couldn't hold it. The friction wasn't good that day, but I returned in better conditions and for it done. [5]

References

[1] Revelations by Jerry Moffatt and Niall Grimes, 2009. Page 225.

[2] Peak Rock by Phil Kelly, Graham Hoey and Giles Barker, 2013. Page 310.

[3] https://www.climber.co.uk/news/dave-mason-repeats-the-ace/

[4] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,33255.msg666546.html#msg666546

[5] Climber magazine

Superman 8B (Boulder)
Voyager 8B (Boulder)
Dominator 8A+ (Boulder) 1993

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/421353737930807

Sean's Roof 8A+ (Lead) August 1995
The Joker 8A (Boulder) 1996
Samson 8A (Lead) 1997
Slingshot 7C+ (Top Rope) December 1988

Climbed on top rope as pads were yet to be invented.

Thriller 7C+ (Boulder)

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/964820103584165

Slapstick 7C (Boulder) 1983
Impropa Opera 7C (Boulder) 1983
Sole Power 7C (Boulder) 2nd June 1983
Powerband 7C (Boulder)
La Bérézina 7C (Boulder)

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/2691794597553365

Inaudible Vaudeville 7B+ (Boulder) 1983
Midnight Lightning 7B (Boulder) 1984

The first ascent in a day.

Picnic Sarcastic 7A+ (Boulder) 1983
Climb Grade FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Renegade Master E8 (Lead) 1995

With pre-placed gear so that it could be clipped more easily on the lead.

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/4537003366365803/

Master's Wall E7 (Lead) 14th July 1983

In that photo [see [2]] I am absolutely climbing to save my life. I'm out of control, it's way harder than I thought, I didn't want to be there and I'm absolutely terrified.

...

You get to some footholds where you can stand and get some RPs behind these little flakes...all I was thinking was "I need to get rescued, I need to get rescued". The I got there, got the wires in, settled down...I just told myself "I never want to climb that bottom bit again, I'm here now and I've got these wires in". The crux was above here but I'd sussed those moves on abseil...so I stood there for a while and thought "let's just go for it".

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/3446194975446653

[2] https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116371059819780/116371949819691

[3] Interview with Niall Grimes on Jam Crack Podcast, March 2022 http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/3/17/jcpc-113-jerry-moffatt

Messiah E7 (Lead) 1984
Verbal Abuse E7 (Lead) 1984
Zero E7 (Lead Flash) 1983

Third ascent shortly after Andy Pollitt's second ascent making use of the fact that the route was cleaned and chalked. Nonetheless a very impressive flash.

The Phoenix E7 (Lead Flash) 1984

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/462380993828081

Zero E7 (Lead Flash)

Third ascent.

Psyche 'n' Burn E6 (Lead) 1981

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.115298749927011/115300749926811

Genocide E6 (Lead) 1983

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116578176465735/116579986465554

Ulysses' Bow E6 (Solo) 14th April 1983

Solo after top rope practice.

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116578176465735/116579829798903.

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/1557591667640336

Linden E6 (Solo Onsight) 1983
Super Imujin E6 (Lead Flash) 1984

Japan's hardest route at the time.

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/2679994322066726

White Wall E5 (Lead) 1980

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/2656362574429901

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/430864846979696

Right Wall E5 (Solo) 15th July 1983
Kingdom Come E5 (Lead)

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/278657725533743

Foil E3 (Solo Repeat) 15th July 1983
Memory Lane E3 (Solo Repeat) 15th July 1983
Left Wall E2 (Solo Repeat) 15th July 1983
Cemetry Gates E1 (Solo Repeat) 15th July 1983
Cenotaph Corner E1 (Solo Repeat) 15th July 1983
Climb Grade FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade