The Promise | E8/7B+ Trad climb at Burbage

First ascent.

Climbed with a single slider for protection and no pads.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pbNm_qB016c

Second ascent.

Kevin found an easier sequence and used a couple of pads to improve the landing.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2008/10/kevin_jorgeson_repeats_the_promise-45410

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2008/10/the_promise__-_kevins_account-45411

Third ascent.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/the_promise_-_e10_or_e8-1466

Fourth ascent. Second go.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/the_promise_-_e10_or_e8-1466

[2] https://vimeo.com/2458024

[3] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/the_promise_-ground_up-_video-1499

After our extensive testing of the slider this turned into a pretty safe thing although I think Pete [Robins] saying E7 is possibly a little low (although it is Pete so what you would expect) Comparing to other E7 7as such as Little Women and Groove is in the Heart (fell off the last move on wed) it felt very slightly easier, Fb7b+ rather than Fb7c?, but a fair bit bolder - both the above are very safe, lots of runners and short falls, the Promise has one ok runner and a ground sweeping (although quite short!) fall. We only felt happy taking the fall on the Promise after a few 'practice' falls from right by it and with 5 pads and a ladder below (I would have been happy with no or one pad on the sunday).

I think for James' ascent (not trusting the runner, no pads) you could probably add an E grade or two (I am sure with UKB grade SCIENCE we could work out how many exactly). [1]

References

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg176038.html#msg176038

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/the_promise_-ground_up-_video-1499

The ballnut placement looked very scarred and possibly damaged in comparison to the week before when I had previously top-roped the route but on the assumption that it was now “bomber” I jumped on and then kicked the gear out as I moved past the crux. [2]

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/dbpage.php?id=103387

[2] https://johnroberts.me/outdoors/2011/11/the-promise-is-it-finally-the-end-of-the-affair/

[3] https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/ukc/the_promise_-_ground_up-332252?v=1#x4901091

https://youtu.be/6Pd6vNv0etg?t=2413

Mike used a side runner on the right hand wall which hadn't been used by previous ascentionists. He climbed up to place the runner before down climbing and then climbing the line.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/reel/DDIKgtlNfCj/