The Promise | E8/7B+ Trad climb at Burbage

UKClimbing.com
Highball.

Originally climbed with no pads and a single ball nut for protection. James gave it E10, believing any fall would involve hitting the ground. Subsequent ascents tested the ball nut (above pads) and found it to be better than expected with the ball nut holding around 20 falls. Based on this, grades around E7 to E8 were suggested.

Due to the falls the quality of the placement deteriorated, with Jordan Buys ripping the gear in a fall from high on the route. It is not clear how reliable the placement currently is. [1]

Now usually climbed as a highball above a big pile of pads.

References

[1] https://johnroberts.me/outdoors/2011/11/the-promise-is-it-finally-the-end-of-the-affair/

Contributors: remus

Pics + Vids

James Pearson
Added at 12:12 on 08 December 2023
Pete Robins
Added at 17:11 on 17 November 2022
Ned Feehally
Added at 19:12 on 12 December 2023

Ascents

7 recorded ascents.

Climber Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
James Pearson Lead | worked Mar 2007 E10
First ascent.

Climbed with a single slider for protection and no pads.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pbNm_qB016c
Kevin Jorgeson Lead | worked 28th Oct 2008 E8
Second ascent.

Kevin found an easier sequence and used a couple of pads to improve the landing.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2008/10/kevin_jorgeson_repeats_the_promise-45410

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2008/10/the_promise__-_kevins_account-45411
Alex Honnold Lead | worked 1st Nov 2008 E8
Third ascent.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/the_promise_-_e10_or_e8-1466
Pete Robins Lead | ground up 7th Dec 2008 E7
Fourth ascent. Second go.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/the_promise_-_e10_or_e8-1466

[2] https://vimeo.com/2458024

[3] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/the_promise_-ground_up-_video-1499
Ben Bransby Lead | worked 7th Dec 2008

After our extensive testing of the slider this turned into a pretty safe thing although I think Pete [Robins] saying E7 is possibly a little low (although it is Pete so what you would expect) Comparing to other E7 7as such as Little Women and Groove is in the Heart (fell off the last move on wed) it felt very slightly easier, Fb7b+ rather than Fb7c?, but a fair bit bolder - both the above are very safe, lots of runners and short falls, the Promise has one ok runner and a ground sweeping (although quite short!) fall. We only felt happy taking the fall on the Promise after a few 'practice' falls from right by it and with 5 pads and a ladder below (I would have been happy with no or one pad on the sunday).

I think for James' ascent (not trusting the runner, no pads) you could probably add an E grade or two (I am sure with UKB grade SCIENCE we could work out how many exactly). [1]

References

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg176038.html#msg176038

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/the_promise_-ground_up-_video-1499
John Roberts Lead | worked 7th Dec 2008 E8 (hard)

The ballnut placement looked very scarred and possibly damaged in comparison to the week before when I had previously top-roped the route but on the assumption that it was now “bomber” I jumped on and then kicked the gear out as I moved past the crux. [2]

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/dbpage.php?id=103387

[2] https://johnroberts.me/outdoors/2011/11/the-promise-is-it-finally-the-end-of-the-affair/

[3] https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/ukc/the_promise_-_ground_up-332252?v=1#x4901091
Ned Feehally Boulder | ground up 2012

https://youtu.be/6Pd6vNv0etg?t=2413