Nick Dixon


Quick Info

Nationality: GB
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8A
Hardest Sport (Worked): 7a
Hardest Trad (Worked): E9
Social Media

References

[1] Interview with Niall Grimes.

Contributors: remus

Quick Info

Nationality: GB
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8A
Hardest Sport (Worked): 7a
Hardest Trad (Worked): E9
Social Media

References

[1] Interview with Niall Grimes.

Contributors: remus

Lists


Podcasts


Pics + Vids

Added at 17:01 on 19 January 2021
Added at 17:01 on 19 January 2021
Face Mecca (E9, FA)
Added at 22:02 on 25 February 2024
Face Mecca (E9, FA)
Added at 22:02 on 25 February 2024
A Fist Full of Crystals (E6)
Added at 23:02 on 09 February 2024
The Master's Edge (E7)
Added at 07:02 on 28 February 2024
A Thousand Setting Suns (E9, FA)
Added at 21:08 on 07 August 2021
Time Regained (E8)
Added at 21:08 on 07 August 2021
My Piano (E8, FA)
Added at 21:08 on 07 August 2021
GreatNess Wall (E10)
Added at 21:08 on 07 August 2021
Cassini (E8, FA)
Added at 22:08 on 07 August 2021
Shropshire Gold (E7, FA)
Added at 08:08 on 08 August 2021

Ascents

27 recorded ascents.

This timeline is missing some ascents where the date of the ascent is unknown. Use the other tabs to view these ascents.
Year Climb Grade Style Ascent Date
1983 Clarion Call 7a Lead | worked 1983

Climbed without the bolts at E6 6a, he used a piece of rock to hammer in a peg mid way through the ascent.

A Fist Full of Crystals E6 Solo | worked 25th Sep 1983
First ascent.
1984 Teenage Menopause E7 Lead | worked May 1984
1985
1986 Polyp Piece E7 Lead | worked 30th Mar 1986
Doug E8 Solo | worked Apr 1986
First ascent.
End of the Affair E8 Lead | worked Sep 1986
Second ascent.

References

[1] Westlake, D. (2010). Froggatt to Black Rocks, page 178.

1987 Gathering Sun E7 Lead | worked 1987
First ascent.
Turd Burglar E6 Lead | worked May 1987
1988 Dinas in the Oven E7 Lead | worked 1988
First ascent.
1989 Face Mecca E9 Lead | worked Jun 1989
First ascent.

I'd practiced the crux on absel many times, and after leaving the belay with just one krab on my belt, it flowed as in a dream until I was on the upper wall after committing through a 6b sequence (15ft above the poor lower-only RURPs and 70ft above the belay). I found moves to finish that I hadn't practiced; why?, why? In desperation, now fully here and awake, I slapped and groped with a pylon's span of rope between me and a grinning Darril [belayer]. [1]

References

[1] Dixon, N. (2004). Clogwyn Dur Arddu: Climbers' Club Guide to Wales, page 187. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club.

1990
1991
1992
1993
1994 Indian Face E9 Lead | worked 1994
Second ascent.

There's one move where I got a left hand sidepull and my right hand was on some nobbles and I came out of my head space because I realised that I couldn't move from that position as freely as planned and pre-practiced as I hadn't accounted for the rope drag. I had to snatch for the next hold, some pebbles. There were about three seconds where I lost my calm a little bit and I had to collect myself. I think Neil had far more of a worry on it. [1]

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/nick_dixon_-_indian_face_the_first_repeat-5756

My Piano E8 Lead | worked 1994
First ascent.

Footage of a later ascent https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bvnY_x5wYFo.

1995 Off the Rocks E8 Lead | worked 1995
First ascent.
1996
1997 Gribin Wall Climb E9 Lead | worked 24th May 1997
First ascent.
1998
1999
2000 10 O'Clock Saturday Morning E7 Lead | worked 2000
First ascent.
A Fist Full of Crystals E6 Solo | repeat 2000s
2001
2002
2003 Margins of the Mind E7 Lead | worked 2003
Second ascent.

Mick Johnston:

In his own mind Nick doesn't feel his ascent was particularly good having pre-placed the gear and returned the next day with his ropes clipped to his high point. I can't see a particularly big queue forming to better his attempt but who knows.

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 131, page 68

2004
2005
2006
2007
2008
2009 A Thousand Setting Suns E9 Lead | worked Jul 2009
2010
2011
2012 Shropshire Gold E7 Lead | worked 2012
2013
2014
2015
2016
2017 Cassini E8 Lead | worked 13th Sep 2017
First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r0PlKeLaMjc

2018 GreatNess Wall E10 Top Rope | did not finish 2018
2019
2020
2021 Spirit of the Moors E8 Lead | worked Apr 2021
2022
2023 The Hollow Man E8 Lead | worked 29th Jul 2023
2024 The Master's Edge E7 Lead | worked 26th Feb 2024
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Clarion Call 7a Lead | worked 1983

Climbed without the bolts at E6 6a, he used a piece of rock to hammer in a peg mid way through the ascent.

Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Lupino Lane 8A Boulder | worked
First ascent.
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
GreatNess Wall E10 Top Rope | did not finish 2018
Face Mecca E9 Lead | worked Jun 1989
First ascent.

I'd practiced the crux on absel many times, and after leaving the belay with just one krab on my belt, it flowed as in a dream until I was on the upper wall after committing through a 6b sequence (15ft above the poor lower-only RURPs and 70ft above the belay). I found moves to finish that I hadn't practiced; why?, why? In desperation, now fully here and awake, I slapped and groped with a pylon's span of rope between me and a grinning Darril [belayer]. [1]

References

[1] Dixon, N. (2004). Clogwyn Dur Arddu: Climbers' Club Guide to Wales, page 187. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club.

Gribin Wall Climb E9 Lead | worked 24th May 1997
First ascent.
A Thousand Setting Suns E9 Lead | worked Jul 2009
Indian Face E9 Lead | worked 1994
Second ascent.

There's one move where I got a left hand sidepull and my right hand was on some nobbles and I came out of my head space because I realised that I couldn't move from that position as freely as planned and pre-practiced as I hadn't accounted for the rope drag. I had to snatch for the next hold, some pebbles. There were about three seconds where I lost my calm a little bit and I had to collect myself. I think Neil had far more of a worry on it. [1]

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/nick_dixon_-_indian_face_the_first_repeat-5756

Doug E8 Solo | worked Apr 1986
First ascent.
My Piano E8 Lead | worked 1994
First ascent.

Footage of a later ascent https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bvnY_x5wYFo.

Off the Rocks E8 Lead | worked 1995
First ascent.
Cassini E8 Lead | worked 13th Sep 2017
First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r0PlKeLaMjc

Spirit of the Moors E8 Lead | worked Apr 2021
Une Jeune Fille Quatre Vingt Dix Ans E8 Lead | worked
First ascent.
End of the Affair E8 Lead | worked Sep 1986
Second ascent.

References

[1] Westlake, D. (2010). Froggatt to Black Rocks, page 178.

The Hollow Man E8 Lead | worked 29th Jul 2023
Time Regained E8 Lead | worked
Teenage Menopause E7 Lead | worked May 1984
Polyp Piece E7 Lead | worked 30th Mar 1986
Gathering Sun E7 Lead | worked 1987
First ascent.
Dinas in the Oven E7 Lead | worked 1988
First ascent.
10 O'Clock Saturday Morning E7 Lead | worked 2000
First ascent.
Shropshire Gold E7 Lead | worked 2012
Margins of the Mind E7 Lead | worked 2003
Second ascent.

Mick Johnston:

In his own mind Nick doesn't feel his ascent was particularly good having pre-placed the gear and returned the next day with his ropes clipped to his high point. I can't see a particularly big queue forming to better his attempt but who knows.

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 131, page 68

The Master's Edge E7 Lead | worked 26th Feb 2024
A Fist Full of Crystals E6 Solo | worked 25th Sep 1983
First ascent.
Turd Burglar E6 Lead | worked May 1987
A Fist Full of Crystals E6 Solo | repeat 2000s
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade