Nick Dixon

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Climbed without the bolts at E6 6a, he used a piece of rock to hammer in a peg mid way through the ascent.

Climbed in mistake for Crystal Grazer (E5).

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116371059819780/116373369819549

References

[1] Mountain Issue 109, page 19 /library/11131/mountain-109

First ascent without the bolts. Bolts removed.

Dixon had a couple of helpers stretch a blanket out underneath him while he attempted to make the first ascent, hoping they would be able to use it to catch him in case of a fall. [1]

References

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,33960.msg690840.html#msg690840

Nick had belayed Johnny on his ascent; Andy Popp belayed Nick, and later made the third ascent – thus beginning the curse of The End of the Affair…

References

[1] Westlake, D. (2010). Froggatt to Black Rocks, page 178.

References

[1] Mountain Issue 112, page 18 /library/11111/mountain-112

An earlier version climbed with Andy Popp in 1985 avoided the main pitch.

I'd practiced the crux on abseil many times, and after leaving the belay with just one krab on my belt, it flowed as in a dream until I was on the upper wall after committing through a 6b sequence (15ft above the poor lower-only RURPs and 70ft above the belay). I found moves to finish that I hadn't practiced; why?, why? In desperation, now fully here and awake, I slapped and groped with a pylon's span of rope between me and a grinning Darril [belayer]. [1]

References

[1] Dixon, N. (2004). Clogwyn Dur Arddu: Climbers' Club Guide to Wales, page 187. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club.

References

[1] Mountain Issue 135 (1990), page 15 /library/11120/mountain-135

References

[1] Mountain Issue 135 (1990), page 15 /library/11120/mountain-135

References

[1] Mountain Issue 135 (1990), page 15 /library/11120/mountain-135

Prior knowledge of Indian Face but otherwise onsight.

References

[1] Clogwyn Du’r Arddu Climber’s Club guidebook by Nick Dixon.

There's one move where I got a left hand sidepull and my right hand was on some nobbles and I came out of my head space because I realised that I couldn't move from that position as freely as planned and pre-practiced as I hadn't accounted for the rope drag. I had to snatch for the next hold, some pebbles. There were about three seconds where I lost my calm a little bit and I had to collect myself. I think Neil had far more of a worry on it. [1]

-

It's like an HVS, only with smaller holds. [2]

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/nick_dixon_-_indian_face_the_first_repeat-5756

[2] Colin Wells. Who's who in British Climbing: Bite-sized Biographies of Dead Climbers - and Some that are Still Alive. United Kingdom: Climbing Company, 2008.

Footage of a later ascent https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bvnY_x5wYFo.

References

[1] Blocheads (2016) /library/11088/blocheads

Variously reported as E8 or E9 at the time of the first ascent.

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 69, page 9

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 101, page 64

References

[1] https://youtu.be/M94V4uqmY1U?t=167

Over two days. After inspection and preplacing some wires with ropes re-clipped on the second day.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2009/07/nick_dixon_new_nesscliffe_e9-48533

[2] https://youtu.be/Eu7uf6Q-R-Q?t=213

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VHCBeb_zedQ

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r0PlKeLaMjc

A lead only in name. Nick attempted to place some marginal gear, then 30s later the gear all fell out so he had to carry on solo!

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2pJVRqBQiCA

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/501818648/videos/10158509137748649/

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FlzXA4PMqVc

FA without siderunners

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZbFc8wXzbyM

References

[1] https://m.facebook.com/story.php/?story_fbid=pfbid0iQqJuv1wJoXPuc5bazRDawByHPXhce1yh7PKMGjN3YjAmCc4PWPjUzBMt7C3Lyhzl&id=100016134670204

[2] https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=1440797563134719&set=pcb.1440798716467937

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=1668472757033864&set=pcb.1668473717033768

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/100016134670204/videos/pcb.1478266526054489/1756393474838999

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g56DwdoGzBo

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e3Kh8r3mx6c

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2025/05/nick_dixon_makes_first_ascent_of_the_real_cool_fool_e8_6b-73965

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/DJZJXzeN0Uo/?img_index=1

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iJ4dhc9LRl4