Nick Dixon


Quick Info

Nationality: GB
Hardest Sport (Worked): 7a
Hardest Trad (Worked): E9
Social Media

Interview with Niall Grimes.

Quick Info

Nationality: GB
Hardest Sport (Worked): 7a
Hardest Trad (Worked): E9
Social Media

Podcasts


Pics + Vids

Added at 17:01 on 19 January 2021
Time Regained (E8)
Added at 21:08 on 07 August 2021
GreatNess Wall (E10)
Added at 21:08 on 07 August 2021
Cassini (E8, FA)
Added at 22:08 on 07 August 2021
A Thousand Setting Suns (E9, FA)
Added at 21:08 on 07 August 2021
My Piano (E8, FA)
Added at 21:08 on 07 August 2021
Shropshire Gold (E7, FA)
Added at 08:08 on 08 August 2021

Ascents

23 recorded ascents.

This timeline is missing some ascents where the date of the ascent is unknown. Use the other tabs to view these ascents.
Year Climb Grade FA Ascent Date
1983 Clarion Call 7a (Lead) 1983

Climbed without the bolts at E6 6a, he used a piece of rock to hammer in a peg mid way through the ascent.

A Fist Full of Crystals E6 (Solo) 25th September 1983
1984 Teenage Menopause E7 (Lead) May 1984

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116371059819780/116373369819549

1985
1986 Polyp Piece E7 (Lead) 30th March 1986

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.150043076452578/150043346452551

Doug E8 (Solo) April 1986
End of the Affair E8 (Lead) September 1986

References

[1] Westlake, D. (2010). Froggatt to Black Rocks, page 178.

1987 Gathering Sun E7 (Lead) 1987
Turd Burglar E6 (Lead) May 1987

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.150043076452578/150043673119185

1988 Dinas in the Oven E7 (Lead) 1988
1989 Face Mecca E9 (Lead) June 1989

I'd practiced the crux on absel many times, and after leaving the belay with just one krab on my belt, it flowed as in a dream until I was on the upper wall after committing through a 6b sequence (15ft above the poor lower-only RURPs and 70ft above the belay). I found moves to finish that I hadn't practiced; why?, why? In desperation, now fully here and awake, I slapped and groped with a pylon's span of rope between me and a grinning Darril [belayer]. [1]

References

[1] Dixon, N. (2004). Clogwyn Dur Arddu: Climbers' Club Guide to Wales, page 187. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club.

1990
1991
1992
1993
1994 Indian Face E9 (Lead) 1994

Second ascent.

There's one move where I got a left hand sidepull and my right hand was on some nobbles and I came out of my head space because I realised that I couldn't move from that position as freely as planned and pre-practiced as I hadn't accounted for the rope drag. I had to snatch for the next hold, some pebbles. There were about three seconds where I lost my calm a little bit and I had to collect myself. I think Neil had far more of a worry on it. [1]

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/nick_dixon_-_indian_face_the_first_repeat-5756

My Piano E8 (Lead) 1994

Footage of a later ascent https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bvnY_x5wYFo.

1995
1996
1997 Gribin Wall Climb E9 (Lead) 24th May 1997
1998
1999
2000 10 O'Clock Saturday Morning E7 (Lead) 2000
2001
2002
2003 Margins of the Mind E7 (Lead) 2003

Second ascent.

Mick Johnston:

In his own mind Nick doesn't feel his ascent was particularly good having pre-placed the gear and returned the next day with his ropes clipped to his high point. I can't see a particularly big queue forming to better his attempt but who knows.

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 131, page 68

2004
2005
2006
2007
2008
2009 A Thousand Setting Suns E9 (Lead) July 2009

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2009/07/nick_dixon_new_nesscliffe_e9-48533

https://youtu.be/Eu7uf6Q-R-Q?t=213

2010
2011
2012 Shropshire Gold E7 (Lead) 2012

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VHCBeb_zedQ

2013
2014
2015
2016
2017 Cassini E8 (Lead) 13th September 2017

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r0PlKeLaMjc

2018 GreatNess Wall E10 (Top Rope Did not finish) 2018

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0NLFikB0J2o

2019
2020
2021 Spirit of the Moors E8 (Lead) April 2021

https://www.facebook.com/501818648/videos/10158509137748649/

Climb Grade FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Clarion Call 7a (Lead) 1983

Climbed without the bolts at E6 6a, he used a piece of rock to hammer in a peg mid way through the ascent.

Climb Grade FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Climb Grade FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade
GreatNess Wall E10 (Top Rope Did not finish) 2018

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0NLFikB0J2o

Face Mecca E9 (Lead) June 1989

I'd practiced the crux on absel many times, and after leaving the belay with just one krab on my belt, it flowed as in a dream until I was on the upper wall after committing through a 6b sequence (15ft above the poor lower-only RURPs and 70ft above the belay). I found moves to finish that I hadn't practiced; why?, why? In desperation, now fully here and awake, I slapped and groped with a pylon's span of rope between me and a grinning Darril [belayer]. [1]

References

[1] Dixon, N. (2004). Clogwyn Dur Arddu: Climbers' Club Guide to Wales, page 187. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club.

Gribin Wall Climb E9 (Lead) 24th May 1997
A Thousand Setting Suns E9 (Lead) July 2009

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2009/07/nick_dixon_new_nesscliffe_e9-48533

https://youtu.be/Eu7uf6Q-R-Q?t=213

Indian Face E9 (Lead) 1994

Second ascent.

There's one move where I got a left hand sidepull and my right hand was on some nobbles and I came out of my head space because I realised that I couldn't move from that position as freely as planned and pre-practiced as I hadn't accounted for the rope drag. I had to snatch for the next hold, some pebbles. There were about three seconds where I lost my calm a little bit and I had to collect myself. I think Neil had far more of a worry on it. [1]

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/nick_dixon_-_indian_face_the_first_repeat-5756

Doug E8 (Solo) April 1986
My Piano E8 (Lead) 1994

Footage of a later ascent https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bvnY_x5wYFo.

Cassini E8 (Lead) 13th September 2017

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r0PlKeLaMjc

Spirit of the Moors E8 (Lead) April 2021

https://www.facebook.com/501818648/videos/10158509137748649/

Une Jeune Fille Quatre Vingt Dix Ans E8 (Lead)
End of the Affair E8 (Lead) September 1986

References

[1] Westlake, D. (2010). Froggatt to Black Rocks, page 178.

Time Regained E8 (Lead)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FlzXA4PMqVc

End of the Affair E8 (Lead)

Second ascent.

Teenage Menopause E7 (Lead) May 1984

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116371059819780/116373369819549

Polyp Piece E7 (Lead) 30th March 1986

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.150043076452578/150043346452551

Gathering Sun E7 (Lead) 1987
Dinas in the Oven E7 (Lead) 1988
10 O'Clock Saturday Morning E7 (Lead) 2000
Shropshire Gold E7 (Lead) 2012

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VHCBeb_zedQ

Margins of the Mind E7 (Lead) 2003

Second ascent.

Mick Johnston:

In his own mind Nick doesn't feel his ascent was particularly good having pre-placed the gear and returned the next day with his ropes clipped to his high point. I can't see a particularly big queue forming to better his attempt but who knows.

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 131, page 68

A Fist Full of Crystals E6 (Solo) 25th September 1983
Turd Burglar E6 (Lead) May 1987

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.150043076452578/150043673119185

Climb Grade FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade