Nick Dixon

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Climbed without the bolts at E6 6a, he used a piece of rock to hammer in a peg mid way through the ascent.

First ascent.

First ascent.

First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116371059819780/116373369819549

First ascent.

First ascent.

Doug had a couple of helpers stretch a blanket out underneath him while he attempted to make the first ascent, hoping they would be able to use it to catch him in case of a fall. [1]

References

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,33960.msg690840.html#msg690840

Second ascent.

References

[1] Westlake, D. (2010). Froggatt to Black Rocks, page 178.

First ascent.

First ascent.

First ascent.

First ascent.

First ascent.

First ascent.

I'd practiced the crux on absel many times, and after leaving the belay with just one krab on my belt, it flowed as in a dream until I was on the upper wall after committing through a 6b sequence (15ft above the poor lower-only RURPs and 70ft above the belay). I found moves to finish that I hadn't practiced; why?, why? In desperation, now fully here and awake, I slapped and groped with a pylon's span of rope between me and a grinning Darril [belayer]. [1]

References

[1] Dixon, N. (2004). Clogwyn Dur Arddu: Climbers' Club Guide to Wales, page 187. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club.

Second ascent.

There's one move where I got a left hand sidepull and my right hand was on some nobbles and I came out of my head space because I realised that I couldn't move from that position as freely as planned and pre-practiced as I hadn't accounted for the rope drag. I had to snatch for the next hold, some pebbles. There were about three seconds where I lost my calm a little bit and I had to collect myself. I think Neil had far more of a worry on it. [1]

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It's like an HVS, only with smaller holds. [2]

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/nick_dixon_-_indian_face_the_first_repeat-5756

[2] Colin Wells. Who's who in British Climbing: Bite-sized Biographies of Dead Climbers - and Some that are Still Alive. United Kingdom: Climbing Company, 2008.

First ascent.

Footage of a later ascent https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bvnY_x5wYFo.

First ascent.

First ascent. Harder than Indian Face and West Indian Face.

Variously reported as E8 or E9 at the time of the first ascent.

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 69, page 9

Second ascent. Pre-placed gear. Easier than Gribin Wall Climb.

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 101, page 64

First ascent.

References

[1] https://youtu.be/M94V4uqmY1U?t=167

First ascent.

Second ascent.

Nick put in a big effort trying to onsight the route, getting through the lower crux section only to fall higher up after an extremely protracted attempt. He then went back to finish the route with his ropes clipped in at the previous high point.

Mick Johnston:

In his own mind Nick doesn't feel his ascent was particularly good having pre-placed the gear and returned the next day with his ropes clipped to his high point. I can't see a particularly big queue forming to better his attempt but who knows.

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 131, page 68

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zQzdrpFm_Pg

First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2009/07/nick_dixon_new_nesscliffe_e9-48533

[2] https://youtu.be/Eu7uf6Q-R-Q?t=213

First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VHCBeb_zedQ

First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r0PlKeLaMjc

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0NLFikB0J2o

A lead only in name. Nick attempted to place some marginal gear, then 30s later the gear all fell out so he had to carry on solo!

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2pJVRqBQiCA

First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/501818648/videos/10158509137748649/

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FlzXA4PMqVc

References

[1] https://m.facebook.com/story.php/?story_fbid=pfbid0iQqJuv1wJoXPuc5bazRDawByHPXhce1yh7PKMGjN3YjAmCc4PWPjUzBMt7C3Lyhzl&id=100016134670204

[2] https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=1440797563134719&set=pcb.1440798716467937

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=1668472757033864&set=pcb.1668473717033768

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/100016134670204/videos/pcb.1478266526054489/1756393474838999

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g56DwdoGzBo

First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e3Kh8r3mx6c