Nick Dixon


Quick Info

From: United Kingdom 🇬🇧
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8A
Hardest Sport (Worked): 7a
Hardest Trad (Worked): E9

References

[1] Interview with Niall Grimes.

Contributors
35 contributions since 19th January 2021.

Quick Info

From: United Kingdom 🇬🇧
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8A
Hardest Sport (Worked): 7a
Hardest Trad (Worked): E9

References

[1] Interview with Niall Grimes.

Contributors
35 contributions since 19th January 2021.

Lists


Podcasts


Pics + Vids

No media.


Ascents

32 recorded ascents.

This timeline is missing some ascents where the date of the ascent is unknown. Use the other tabs to view these ascents.
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Clarion Call 7a Lead | worked 1983

Climbed without the bolts at E6 6a, he used a piece of rock to hammer in a peg mid way through the ascent.

Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Lupino Lane 8A Boulder | worked
First ascent.
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
GreatNess Wall E10 Top Rope | did not finish 2018
Face Mecca E9 Lead | worked Jun 1989
First ascent.

I'd practiced the crux on absel many times, and after leaving the belay with just one krab on my belt, it flowed as in a dream until I was on the upper wall after committing through a 6b sequence (15ft above the poor lower-only RURPs and 70ft above the belay). I found moves to finish that I hadn't practiced; why?, why? In desperation, now fully here and awake, I slapped and groped with a pylon's span of rope between me and a grinning Darril [belayer]. [1]

References

[1] Dixon, N. (2004). Clogwyn Dur Arddu: Climbers' Club Guide to Wales, page 187. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club.

Gribin Wall Climb E9 Lead | worked 24th May 1997
First ascent.
A Thousand Setting Suns E9 Lead | worked Jul 2009
Indian Face E9 Lead | worked 1994
Second ascent.

There's one move where I got a left hand sidepull and my right hand was on some nobbles and I came out of my head space because I realised that I couldn't move from that position as freely as planned and pre-practiced as I hadn't accounted for the rope drag. I had to snatch for the next hold, some pebbles. There were about three seconds where I lost my calm a little bit and I had to collect myself. I think Neil had far more of a worry on it. [1]

-

It's like an HVS, only with smaller holds. [2]

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/nick_dixon_-_indian_face_the_first_repeat-5756

[2] Colin Wells. Who's who in British Climbing: Bite-sized Biographies of Dead Climbers - and Some that are Still Alive. United Kingdom: Climbing Company, 2008.

Rare Lichen E9 Lead | worked 2000
Second ascent. Pre-placed gear. Easier than Gribin Wall Climb.

References

[1] OnThe Edge Issue 101, page 64

Once Upon a Time in the Southwest E9 Lead | worked 2024
Doug E8 Solo | worked Apr 1986
First ascent.

Doug had a couple of helpers stretch a blanket out underneath him while he attempted to make the first ascent, hoping they would be able to use it to catch him in case of a fall. [1]

References

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,33960.msg690840.html#msg690840

Berlin Wall E8 Lead | worked Apr 1989
First ascent.
My Piano E8 Lead | worked 1994
First ascent.

Footage of a later ascent https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bvnY_x5wYFo.

Off the Rocks E8 Lead | worked 1995
First ascent.
Cassini E8 Lead | worked 13th Sep 2017
First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r0PlKeLaMjc

Spirit of the Moors E8 Lead | worked Apr 2021
Une Jeune Fille Quatre Vingt Dix Ans E8 Lead | worked
First ascent.
End of the Affair E8 Lead | worked Sep 1986
Second ascent.

References

[1] Westlake, D. (2010). Froggatt to Black Rocks, page 178.

The Hollow Man E8 Lead | worked 29th Jul 2023
Time Regained E8 Lead | worked
One Chromosome's Missing E7 Lead | worked 1984
First ascent.
Teenage Menopause E7 Lead | worked May 1984
Polyp Piece E7 Lead | worked 30th Mar 1986
First ascent.
Gathering Sun E7 Lead | worked 1987
First ascent.
My Halo E7 Lead | worked May 1987
First ascent.
Dinas in the Oven E7 Lead | worked 1988
First ascent.
10 O'Clock Saturday Morning E7 Lead | worked 2000
First ascent.
Shropshire Gold E7 Lead | worked 2012
First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VHCBeb_zedQ

Margins of the Mind E7 Lead | worked 2003
Second ascent.

Nick put in a big effort trying to onsight the route, getting through the lower crux section only to fall higher up after an extremely protracted attempt. He then went back to finish the route with his ropes clipped in at the previous high point.

Mick Johnston:

In his own mind Nick doesn't feel his ascent was particularly good having pre-placed the gear and returned the next day with his ropes clipped to his high point. I can't see a particularly big queue forming to better his attempt but who knows.

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 131, page 68

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zQzdrpFm_Pg

The Master's Edge E7 Lead | worked 26th Feb 2024
A Fist Full of Crystals E6 Solo | worked 25th Sep 1983
First ascent.
Turd Burglar E6 Lead | worked May 1987
First ascent.
A Fist Full of Crystals E6 Solo | repeat 2000s
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade