Pete Whittaker


Quick Info

Nationality: GB
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8B
Hardest Sport (Worked): 8c+
Hardest Trad (Worked): E11
Hardest Trad (Onsight): E8
Hardest Trad (Flash): E9
Notable Partnerships
Tom Randall
Social Media

One half of the WideBoyz.

Features in Without a Partner: Rope Solo of El Cap in Under 24rhs

Contributors: remus

Quick Info

Nationality: GB
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8B
Hardest Sport (Worked): 8c+
Hardest Trad (Worked): E11
Hardest Trad (Onsight): E8
Hardest Trad (Flash): E9
Notable Partnerships
Tom Randall
Social Media

One half of the WideBoyz.

Features in Without a Partner: Rope Solo of El Cap in Under 24rhs

Contributors: remus

Lists


Podcasts


Pics + Vids

Added at 17:01 on 13 January 2021
Crown Royale (E11, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 17:09 on 28 September 2023
Stranger Than Fiction (E10)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 20:11 on 24 November 2023
Stranger Than Fiction (E10)
Added at 08:11 on 28 November 2023
Stranger Than Fiction (E10)
Added at 19:12 on 04 December 2023
Crown Royale (E11, FA)
Added at 17:12 on 10 December 2023
Eigerdosis (E10, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 06:08 on 25 August 2023
Crown Duel (E10, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 07:08 on 25 August 2023
Pure Now (E9)
Added at 16:02 on 08 February 2024
The Bigger Baron (E10, FA)
Added at 06:08 on 11 August 2023
The Cleaver (E8, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 05:12 on 19 December 2023
Crown Royale (E11, FA)
Added at 16:09 on 29 September 2023
Zone Out (E8, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 11:01 on 21 January 2024
Pure Now (E9)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 17:01 on 26 January 2024
Sleepy Hollow (E10, FA)
Added at 10:12 on 19 December 2020
Crown Royale (E11, FA)
Added at 16:10 on 15 October 2023
Crown Royale (E11, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 15:10 on 05 October 2023
Sleepy Hollow (E10, FA)
Added at 11:12 on 19 December 2020
Dynamics of Change (E9, FA)
Added at 10:01 on 14 January 2021
French Duke (E9)
Added at 17:01 on 24 January 2021
Silence (9c)
Added at 19:07 on 08 July 2021
The Great Rift (E10, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 19:12 on 08 December 2021
Sleepy Hollow (E10, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 19:12 on 08 December 2021
Baron Greenback (E9, FA)
Added at 10:07 on 19 July 2021
La Fuerza de la Gravedad (E9)
Added at 16:12 on 04 December 2022
The Recovery Drink (E11)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 14:07 on 13 July 2022
The Bigger Baron (E10, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 07:07 on 21 July 2022
The Kraken (8B)
Added at 17:07 on 24 July 2022
Bar Wars (E8, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 13:09 on 26 September 2022
Bar Wars (E8, FA)
Added at 13:09 on 26 September 2022
The Master's Edge (E7)
Added at 06:10 on 27 October 2022
Ronny Medelsvensson (E9)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 16:10 on 27 October 2022

Ascents

40 recorded ascents.

This timeline is missing some ascents where the date of the ascent is unknown. Use the other tabs to view these ascents.
Year Climb Grade Style Ascent Date
2008 Grandad's Slab E7 Lead | worked 5th Jan 2008
Captain Calamity E7 Lead | worked 1st Mar 2008
Dynamics of Change E9 Lead | worked 14th Mar 2008
First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U7dPa2MGqhE

Ray's Roof E7 Lead | ground up 17th Jun 2008

Pete's ascent was partially aided by a gardening glove taped to his under-sized fist.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2008/06/rays_roof__-_dispatched_by_tom_randall_and_pete_whittaker-44807

2009 Silent Scream E7 Lead | worked 7th Mar 2009
Gobbler's Roof E7 Lead | worked 22nd Apr 2009
Inspiration Dedication E8 Lead | worked 13th Sep 2009
First ascent.
2010 French Duke E9 Lead | worked Mar 2010
Greenspit E9 Lead | worked Aug 2010
Ray's Roof E7 Solo | repeat Nov 2010
2011 The Master's Edge E7 Lead | flash 2011
Belly Full of Bad Berries E8 Lead | flash Oct 2011
Century Crack E10 Lead | worked Nov 2011
2012 Selladore E8 Lead | worked 15th Jun 2012
First ascent.
2013 Baron Greenback E9 Lead | worked 4th Mar 2013
Cobra Crack E9 Lead | worked Sep 2013
Sleepy Hollow E10 Lead | worked 8th Dec 2013
2014 The Bigger Baron E10 Lead | worked 31st Mar 2014
2015 The Complete Scream E8 Lead | onsight Jun 2015
Kaa'bah 8c+ Lead | worked 2nd Jun 2015
2016
2017
2018
2019 Black Mamba E9 Lead | worked Apr 2019
First ascent. With Tom Randall.
Necronomicon E9 Lead | worked Apr 2019

I was pleased with our successes on this one. When one person gets it it's great, but it always feels like a job half-done, so it was good that we both did it one after the other on the same day. It felt like a little inner personal achievement to me. [1]

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2019/04/roof_crack_repeat_by_randall_and_whittaker_-_necronomicon_513d14a-71912

The Recovery Drink E11 Lead | worked Aug 2019
Crown Duel E10 Lead | worked Aug 2019
Ronny Medelsvensson E9 Lead | flash Aug 2019
Jon Bønner E8 Lead | worked 16th Sep 2019
First ascent.
2020 Silence 9c Lead | did not finish 2020

Pete had a little play on the crack section to see if he could work out a sequence.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fQWHvDvtMFs

2021 The Great Rift E10 Alternate Leads | worked Nov 2021
First ascent.

Will it see repeats?

Pete: No. I would absolutely love it if someone did. Honestly I would love it! But it's a fairly short list of candidates, and even then, they'd still need to put some training time in, and they'd need a partner of a same standard. And then to go through the whole recce, access, police thing again.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CWojJDwMRPG/

2022 The Kraken 8B Boulder | worked 20th Jun 2022
Bar Wars E8 Lead | worked Sep 2022
First ascent.

On trying to find a partner for the line:

He [George Smith] kept giving me phone numbers of other climbers. Calum [Muskett] managed to bring in the excuse that he was becoming a Dad. However, I eventually managed to rope Zippy [Mark Pretty] into a trip down there. Fortunately for him, the swell was way too big and we couldn't even make it to the base of the first pitch.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/Ci8JBrcMzVt/

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2022/09/massive_new_gogarth_e8_roof_crack_by_pete_whittaker_-_bar_wars-73154

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bFDrzUL8srU

La Fuerza de la Gravedad E9 Lead | flash Oct 2022
2023 Eigerdosis E10 Lead | worked Aug 2023
Crown Royale E11 Lead | worked Between 23rd Sep 2023 and 28th Sep 2023
The Pura Pura E10 Lead | worked Oct 2023
The Cleaver E8 Lead | flash Nov 2023
First ascent.

Climbing The Cleaver a few weeks back i went wayyyy over maximum. After I passed the crux lip turn I was hazing in and out vision and could barely do the few simple moves to the anchor. Proper over the red line and beyond moment! 😅 I enjoyed it. [1]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C1BeVVpOF_7/?img_index=1

Stranger Than Fiction E10 Lead | worked Between 20th Nov 2023 and 24th Nov 2023
12 sessions.

As it's not had many ascents I'll give my thoughts on the grade to add to the general consensus over time. For me it felt tough 8c, harder than Cobra [Crack], easier than Recovery [Drink]. With pure cracks like this hand and finger size does always play a part though. This crack does take in a range of bad sizes so the cruxes are likely to be slightly different for everyone.

However, what can be said is it's such a classic for the hard global crack circuit, and you really need to know your pure jamming techniques for this one. Thanks Mason Earle for the vision and the fight right to the anchor. [1]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/reel/C0Cl6HrvwK-/

[2] https://open.spotify.com/episode/19Qi2hObiFY843FSwzN0vp?4v-Ppg

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGQfQpjpq8I

2024 Pure Now E9 Lead | worked 19th Jan 2024
Zone Out E8 Lead | worked 19th Jan 2024
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Silence 9c Lead | did not finish 2020

Pete had a little play on the crack section to see if he could work out a sequence.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fQWHvDvtMFs

Kaa'bah 8c+ Lead | worked 2nd Jun 2015
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
The Kraken 8B Boulder | worked 20th Jun 2022
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Crown Royale E11 Lead | worked Between 23rd Sep 2023 and 28th Sep 2023
The Recovery Drink E11 Lead | worked Aug 2019
Century Crack E10 Lead | worked Nov 2011
Sleepy Hollow E10 Lead | worked 8th Dec 2013
The Bigger Baron E10 Lead | worked 31st Mar 2014
Crown Duel E10 Lead | worked Aug 2019
The Great Rift E10 Alternate Leads | worked Nov 2021
First ascent.

Will it see repeats?

Pete: No. I would absolutely love it if someone did. Honestly I would love it! But it's a fairly short list of candidates, and even then, they'd still need to put some training time in, and they'd need a partner of a same standard. And then to go through the whole recce, access, police thing again.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CWojJDwMRPG/

Eigerdosis E10 Lead | worked Aug 2023
The Pura Pura E10 Lead | worked Oct 2023
Stranger Than Fiction E10 Lead | worked Between 20th Nov 2023 and 24th Nov 2023 8c (hard)
12 sessions.

As it's not had many ascents I'll give my thoughts on the grade to add to the general consensus over time. For me it felt tough 8c, harder than Cobra [Crack], easier than Recovery [Drink]. With pure cracks like this hand and finger size does always play a part though. This crack does take in a range of bad sizes so the cruxes are likely to be slightly different for everyone.

However, what can be said is it's such a classic for the hard global crack circuit, and you really need to know your pure jamming techniques for this one. Thanks Mason Earle for the vision and the fight right to the anchor. [1]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/reel/C0Cl6HrvwK-/

[2] https://open.spotify.com/episode/19Qi2hObiFY843FSwzN0vp?4v-Ppg

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGQfQpjpq8I

Dynamics of Change E9 Lead | worked 14th Mar 2008
First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U7dPa2MGqhE

Baron Greenback E9 Lead | worked 4th Mar 2013
Black Mamba E9 Lead | worked Apr 2019
First ascent. With Tom Randall.
French Duke E9 Lead | worked Mar 2010
Greenspit E9 Lead | worked Aug 2010
Cobra Crack E9 Lead | worked Sep 2013
Necronomicon E9 Lead | worked Apr 2019

I was pleased with our successes on this one. When one person gets it it's great, but it always feels like a job half-done, so it was good that we both did it one after the other on the same day. It felt like a little inner personal achievement to me. [1]

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2019/04/roof_crack_repeat_by_randall_and_whittaker_-_necronomicon_513d14a-71912

Ronny Medelsvensson E9 Lead | flash Aug 2019
La Fuerza de la Gravedad E9 Lead | flash Oct 2022 8b (soft)
Pure Now E9 Lead | worked 19th Jan 2024
Inspiration Dedication E8 Lead | worked 13th Sep 2009
First ascent.
Selladore E8 Lead | worked 15th Jun 2012
First ascent.
Jon Bønner E8 Lead | worked 16th Sep 2019
First ascent.
Bar Wars E8 Lead | worked Sep 2022
First ascent.

On trying to find a partner for the line:

He [George Smith] kept giving me phone numbers of other climbers. Calum [Muskett] managed to bring in the excuse that he was becoming a Dad. However, I eventually managed to rope Zippy [Mark Pretty] into a trip down there. Fortunately for him, the swell was way too big and we couldn't even make it to the base of the first pitch.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/Ci8JBrcMzVt/

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2022/09/massive_new_gogarth_e8_roof_crack_by_pete_whittaker_-_bar_wars-73154

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bFDrzUL8srU

The Cleaver E8 Lead | flash Nov 2023
First ascent.

Climbing The Cleaver a few weeks back i went wayyyy over maximum. After I passed the crux lip turn I was hazing in and out vision and could barely do the few simple moves to the anchor. Proper over the red line and beyond moment! 😅 I enjoyed it. [1]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C1BeVVpOF_7/?img_index=1

Zone Out E8 Lead | worked 19th Jan 2024
Belly Full of Bad Berries E8 Lead | flash Oct 2011
The Complete Scream E8 Lead | onsight Jun 2015
The Price of Evil E8 Lead | worked
Grandad's Slab E7 Lead | worked 5th Jan 2008
Captain Calamity E7 Lead | worked 1st Mar 2008
Silent Scream E7 Lead | worked 7th Mar 2009
Gobbler's Roof E7 Lead | worked 22nd Apr 2009
Norwegian Crown E7 Lead | worked
First ascent.
Ray's Roof E7 Lead | ground up 17th Jun 2008

Pete's ascent was partially aided by a gardening glove taped to his under-sized fist.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2008/06/rays_roof__-_dispatched_by_tom_randall_and_pete_whittaker-44807

Ray's Roof E7 Solo | repeat Nov 2010
The Master's Edge E7 Lead | flash 2011
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade