Pete Whittaker

First ascent.

First ascent.

First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U7dPa2MGqhE

Pete's ascent was partially aided by a gardening glove taped to his under-sized fist.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2008/06/rays_roof__-_dispatched_by_tom_randall_and_pete_whittaker-44807

First ascent.

First ascent.

First ascent.

First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oRQDAQlbsAw

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nkn_nLKA0aE

First ascent. With Tom Randall.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2011/11/wideboyz_climb_century_crack_placing_gear-64870

First ascent.

First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e2es_JX_Hcw

First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x-ACI7nnd5g

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/CXOwn9-oqwC/

By some definitions Pete flashed the entire route. However it is not clear cut:

• After completing the first 7 pitches Pete rappelled to the ground for logisitical reasons
• Pete fell on the boulder problem pitch, lowered to the belay and then climbed the teflon corner first go

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2014/10/freerider_flashed_by_pete_whittaker-69244

First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CCqItM7gmoZ/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2ZpprpkFh9I

In a day!

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CikzYN0z4zU

First ascent. With Tom Randall.

I was pleased with our successes on this one. When one person gets it it's great, but it always feels like a job half-done, so it was good that we both did it one after the other on the same day. It felt like a little inner personal achievement to me. [1]

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2019/04/roof_crack_repeat_by_randall_and_whittaker_-_necronomicon_513d14a-71912

First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/B1iqA2KFpE9/?hl=en-gb

Third ascent.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2019/08/third_ascent_of_recovery_drink_by_pete_whittaker-72032

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/B1Of9IDo5OG/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/B1Vqvg7FBYY/

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2019/08/pete_whittaker_flashes_ronny_medelsvensson_trad_8b-72038

First ascent.

Pete had a little play on the crack section to see if he could work out a sequence.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fQWHvDvtMFs

First ascent.

Will it see repeats?

Pete: No. I would absolutely love it if someone did. Honestly I would love it! But it's a fairly short list of candidates, and even then, they'd still need to put some training time in, and they'd need a partner of a same standard. And then to go through the whole recce, access, police thing again.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CWojJDwMRPG/

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uUh5pAcEtGc

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/tv/CfJWkIMjBSQ/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xc-kEPWFQGU

First ascent.

On trying to find a partner for the line:

He [George Smith] kept giving me phone numbers of other climbers. Calum [Muskett] managed to bring in the excuse that he was becoming a Dad. However, I eventually managed to rope Zippy [Mark Pretty] into a trip down there. Fortunately for him, the swell was way too big and we couldn't even make it to the base of the first pitch.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/Ci8JBrcMzVt/

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2022/09/massive_new_gogarth_e8_roof_crack_by_pete_whittaker_-_bar_wars-73154

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bFDrzUL8srU

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2022/10/8b_trad_roof_crack_flash_in_spain_by_pete_whittaker-73178

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZvPiB8AzWkE

First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CwQX1kfMn8d/?img_index=1

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2023/08/pete_whittaker_makes_first_free_ascent_of_eigerdosis_8c-73433

[3] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/pete-whittaker-frees-eigerdosis-8c-trad-crack-jossingfjord-norway.html

First ascent.

The hardest, or up their with the hardest things I've done.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/Cxvn7caMmLO/=

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vN_3i6axfao

[3] https://www.instagram.com/p/CyAugoKMhdi/

[4] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2023/10/pete_whittaker_on_crown_royale_9a-73481

[5] https://open.spotify.com/episode/1XrRTecaRKy9JOqPFXoKhI?

[6] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HodiG0G9knM

Second ascent.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/petewhittaker01/?img_index=1

First ascent.

Climbing The Cleaver a few weeks back i went wayyyy over maximum. After I passed the crux lip turn I was hazing in and out vision and could barely do the few simple moves to the anchor. Proper over the red line and beyond moment! 😅 I enjoyed it. [1]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C1BeVVpOF_7/?img_index=1

12 sessions.

As it's not had many ascents I'll give my thoughts on the grade to add to the general consensus over time. For me it felt tough 8c, harder than Cobra [Crack], easier than Recovery [Drink]. With pure cracks like this hand and finger size does always play a part though. This crack does take in a range of bad sizes so the cruxes are likely to be slightly different for everyone.

However, what can be said is it's such a classic for the hard global crack circuit, and you really need to know your pure jamming techniques for this one. Thanks Mason Earle for the vision and the fight right to the anchor. [1]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/reel/C0Cl6HrvwK-/

[2] https://open.spotify.com/episode/19Qi2hObiFY843FSwzN0vp?4v-Ppg

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGQfQpjpq8I

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o3MltLV3bV8

Second ascent. Belayed by Ben Heason.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C2kYg1LMnKB/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wufMU4o46-k

First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C2W73x0MFuW/

[2] https://youtu.be/G7DWi8E0S-8?t=752

Third ascent. 1 session.

Pete fell of high on the onsight,. spent a little time working it and then did it next go. [2]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C6eHLCttTxv/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KIh4pBvnzu0