The New Statesman | E8 Trad climb at Ilkley

UKClimbing.com

John Dunne:

It is undoubtedly one of the best routes on grit, in terms of the line, the position and of course climbing. [1]

References

[1] Yorkshire Gritstone Volume 2, 2014. Page 63.

Contributors
TdG
26 contributions since 9th October 2025.
remus
16 contributions since 6th January 2021.

Library

Pics + Vids

No pics or vids yet.

Ascents

9 recorded ascents.

Climber Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
John Dunne Lead | worked Oct 1987
First ascent.

References

[1] https://youtu.be/3D0Mp0RrQRA?si=ctJ66ts-BZoeifUs&t=832

[2] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/933538446712331
Seb Grieve Lead | worked 10th May 1995
Second ascent.

Seb could span around arete to a good hold, so suggested E8 6c.

Neil Bentley Lead | worked 1997
Third ascent.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PqORzWevG_k

[2] Hard Grit (1998)
Pete Hurley Lead | worked 2003
Fourth ascent.

First non-lanky repeat.
Kevin Jorgeson Lead | worked Oct 2008

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2008/10/new_statesman_and_ulysses_-_visiting_americans-45389
Alex Honnold Lead | worked 15th Nov 2008

Awesome line. Much, much harder than the EOTA [End of the Affair] or Gaia. Thank to the random folk nearby for lending a few pads.
Michele Caminati Lead | worked Mar 2012

After taking a ground fall from high on the route when the gear ripped!

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=3321728554967&set=t.1020908861&type=1&theater

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2012/03/screaming_dream_e7_7a-67008
Will Atkinson Lead | worked

References

[1] https://vimeo.com/115389857
Gordon Lennox Lead | worked