Climbing History

A selected history of climbing and mountaineering through the climbers, climbs and media.


4192 Climbers

8109 Climbs

21593 Ascents


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L’Ombre du Voyageur | 8B+ Boulder problem at Le Salève

© Grimper | Source

L’Ombre du Voyageur is a 15m roof crack boulder problem in a cave in Le Salève, near Geneva. The first half of the problem is the hardest section before you reach a slight rest hanging from a single handjam, and then the easier end section.

The line was first spotted by Elie Chevieux, but it had to wait until Charles Albert started working the line around 2019 until it would then see a first ascent in 2023.

Speculating on the grade, Charles acknowledged it would likely feel significantly easier with shoes and knee pads but suggested 9A would likely be appropriate for an ascent in this 'normal' style. Pietro Vidi then made the second ascent using all the tricks in the book (2 shoes, 4 kneepads (!) and 2 crack gloves) and suggested 8B+ was more appropriate. Given Pietro's ascent is closer to the 'normal' style it seems 8B+ is probably closer to the grade others will experience on this problem.

References

[1] https://maps.app.goo.gl/Eij35BemenXwim5e8

© Grimper | Source

L’Ombre du Voyageur is a 15m roof crack boulder problem in a cave in Le Salève, near Geneva. The first half of the problem is the hardest section before you reach a slight rest hanging from a single handjam, and then the easier end section.

The line was first spotted by Elie Chevieux, but it had to wait until Charles Albert started working the line around 2019 until it would then see a first ascent in 2023.

Speculating on the grade, Charles acknowledged it would likely feel significantly easier with shoes and knee pads but suggested 9A would likely be appropriate for an ascent in this 'normal' style. Pietro Vidi then made the second ascent using all the tricks in the book (2 shoes, 4 kneepads (!) and 2 crack gloves) and suggested 8B+ was more appropriate. Given Pietro's ascent is closer to the 'normal' style it seems 8B+ is probably closer to the grade others will experience on this problem.

References

[1] https://maps.app.goo.gl/Eij35BemenXwim5e8

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Laura Rogora's ascent of Ixeia
Leo Cea's ascent of Ixeia
Media

A founding member of the Climbers' Club and a member of it's first committee.

A founding member of the Climbers' Club and a member of it's first committee.

References

[1] http://www.theslingsbys.co.uk/willcecilarticle.htm

[2] https://footlesscrow.blogspot.com/2021/01/remembering-slingsby.html by Tony Howard (2021)

A founding member of the Climbers' Club and a member of it's first committee.

Often referred to as the Father of Rock Climbing, he was one of the earliest climbers to pursue rock climbing for it's own sake. He was a founding member of the Climbers' Club and a member of it's first committee.