Climbing History
A selected history of climbing and mountaineering through the climbers, climbs and media.
4271 Climbers
8276 Climbs
22108 Ascents
Featured
Fred Rouhling
Fred Rouhling was a controversial figure during the late '90s and early 2000s. With a string of hard ascents in a relatively off-the-beaten track location there were many people who doubted his ascents, not helped by the fact that some of his key routes were unashamedly chipped (for example De L'Autre Côté du Ciel). He is notable for a particularly dynamic style of climbing which would be familiar in a comp today, but was unusual at the time; routes such as Hugh (9a) were manufactured to create this style.
His route Akira was particularly contentious. When he made the first ascent he gave it the then unheard of grade of 9b at a time when 9a+ didn't exist.
A 2005 profile by Pete Ward [2] helped to dispel some of the more outlandish myths, and many of his routes have now received repeats which confirm their quality and difficulty. However, his route Akira did receive a notable downgrade to 9a after being repeated by Sébastien Bouin and Lucien Martinez.
References
[1] Interview with Relais Vertical Part 1 https://youtu.be/xqk0nQCNtpY
[2] Interview with Relais Vertical Part 2 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=enFSnkF25eI
[3] The Other Side of Fred Rouhling by Pete Ward, 15th June 2012 https://www.climbing.com/people/fred-rouhling/
[4] Interview with camptocamp.org, October 2008 https://www.camptocamp.org/articles/143240/fr/interview-de-fred-rouhling-21-10-2008-
[5] https://open.spotify.com/episode/4T8j5taHKyu11HnWMKvxWT?
[6] Interview for On The Edge Issue 102, page 40
Fred Rouhling was a controversial figure during the late '90s and early 2000s. With a string of hard ascents in a relatively off-the-beaten track location there were many people who doubted his ascents, not helped by the fact that some of his key routes were unashamedly chipped (for example De L'Autre Côté du Ciel). He is notable for a particularly dynamic style of climbing which would be familiar in a comp today, but was unusual at the time; routes such as Hugh (9a) were manufactured to create this style.
His route Akira was particularly contentious. When he made the first ascent he gave it the then unheard of grade of 9b at a time when 9a+ didn't exist.
A 2005 profile by Pete Ward [2] helped to dispel some of the more outlandish myths, and many of his routes have now received repeats which confirm their quality and difficulty. However, his route Akira did receive a notable downgrade to 9a after being repeated by Sébastien Bouin and Lucien Martinez.
References
[1] Interview with Relais Vertical Part 1 https://youtu.be/xqk0nQCNtpY
[2] Interview with Relais Vertical Part 2 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=enFSnkF25eI
[3] The Other Side of Fred Rouhling by Pete Ward, 15th June 2012 https://www.climbing.com/people/fred-rouhling/
[4] Interview with camptocamp.org, October 2008 https://www.camptocamp.org/articles/143240/fr/interview-de-fred-rouhling-21-10-2008-
[5] https://open.spotify.com/episode/4T8j5taHKyu11HnWMKvxWT?
[6] Interview for On The Edge Issue 102, page 40
Pics + Vids
Featuring 10785 pictures and videos. Try searching for a climber, climb or summit to see pics and videos.
Fumiya Nakamura on Century Crack E10
Tom Randall on Orange Piranha 8A+
Steve McClure on GreatNess Wall E10
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You may also be interested in the Mountain Heritage Trust, a charity dedicated to preserving the rich history of climbing and mountaineering. Their collection includes many unique and valuable items, from rare guidebooks through to the boots worn by Doug Scott on the 1977 Ogre expedition.
Explore
Fancy a look around? You can browse by climber or by climbs, or you can check out some lists. For example
- All sport ascents of 9b or above
- British women who have climbed 7C or above
- British men who have climbed 8c or above
Podcasts
Featuring 4332 podcasts. Try searching for a climber to see podcasts with them, or check out some of these podcasts:
- Tom Livingstone on The Enormocast (2020)
- Leo Houlding on Jam Crack Podcast (2023)
- Allison Vest on The Testpiece Podcast (2024)
- Brett Lowell on Climbing Gold (2025)
Library
Featuring 16178 items in the library. Try a search to see what you can find, or check out these library items:
- Cutting Edge - The Human Spider Film
- Alpine Journal 2019 Vol 123 297-303 Greenland (2019) Journal
- Buckland Hill Climbs Guidebook
Recent updates
Slovenian mountaineer specialising in hard technical solo ascents. Some of his most notable claimed ascents, such as the south face of Lhotse in 1990, are now treated with some scepticism.
References
[1] https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/47/3/south-face-of-lhotse-1990/
[4] https://www.pioletsdor.net/presse/2017/forum/Reasonable-doubt-Child-Climbing.pdf
References
Slovenian mountaineer specialising in hard technical solo ascents.
British Southern Sandstone enthusiast and promoter. Cafe owner 'Terry's Festerhaunt'. For many year voluntary guardian of Harrison's Rocks becoming official warden after it was acquired by the British Mountaineering Council.
References
[1] https://www.thebmc.co.uk/en/southern-sandstone-climbing-the-life-and-work-of-terry-tullis
For many year voluntary guardian of Harrison's Rocks becoming official warden after it was acquired by the British Mountaineering Council.
References
[1] https://www.thebmc.co.uk/en/southern-sandstone-climbing-the-life-and-work-of-terry-tullis
One of the leading climbers of his time [1]
Austrian guide, rock climber and Alpinist noted for his fast and lightly-protected ascents, sometimes solo, and his skill on both rock and ice.
He died, apparently from an ice avalanche, whilst on Cerro Torre. His partner Cesare Maestri claimed this was descending after a successful ascent. Building on work by Ken Wilson, Rolando Garibotti and Kelly Cordes have removed any lingering doubt that they did not summit.
Torre Egger is named after him on Maestri's suggestion after Egger's death.
References
[2] https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200413800
[3] Cordes, K (2014) The Tower. US Patagonia Books.
One of the leading climbers of his time [1]
Austrian guide, rock climber and Alpinist noted for his fast and lightly-protected ascents, sometimes solo, and his skill on both rock and ice.
He died, apparently from an ice avalanche, whilst on Cerro Torre. His partner Cesare Maestri claimed this was descending after a successful ascent. Building on work by [Ken Wilson],(/climber/1012/ken-wilson), Rolando Garibotti and Kelly Cordes have removed any lingering doubt that they did not summit.
Torre Egger is named after him on Maestri's suggestion after Egger's death.
References
[2] https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200413800
[3] Cordes, K (2014) The Tower. US Patagonia Books.
All-star team makes the first British ascent. MacInnes sustained a head injury from rock-fall but completed the route cementing his hard-man reputation and Whillans' for keeping calm and carrying on.