Climbing History

A selected history of climbing and mountaineering through the climbers, climbs and media.


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Biographie | 9a+ Sport route at Céüse

Arnaud Petit climbed the pitch to a half height anchor in 1996 at a grade of 8c+. The full pitch was given the name Biographie but was later renamed Realization by the first ascenionist Chris Sharma. In line with French custom of routes being named by their equipper, it is now known as Biographie.

The route became famous as one of Chris Sharma's first big new routes and one of the earliest routes given 9a+, though notably not the first (several routes previously given 9a have subsequently been upgraded). His extended efforts on the route were documented in the film Dosage Volume 1.

Josh Lowell:

At one point Chris wanted to call it Get a Life, thankfully he changed his mind! [3]

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suVH2BuFEh0

[3] https://open.spotify.com/episode/14eXBiZUrV7LetCF132iNS?

Arnaud Petit climbed the pitch to a half height anchor in 1996 at a grade of 8c+. The full pitch was given the name Biographie but was later renamed Realization by the first ascenionist Chris Sharma. In line with French custom of routes being named by their equipper, it is now known as Biographie.

The route became famous as one of Chris Sharma's first big new routes and one of the earliest routes given 9a+, though notably not the first (several routes previously given 9a have subsequently been upgraded). His extended efforts on the route were documented in the film Dosage Volume 1.

Josh Lowell:

At one point Chris wanted to call it Get a Life, thankfully he changed his mind! [3]

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suVH2BuFEh0

[3] https://open.spotify.com/episode/14eXBiZUrV7LetCF132iNS?

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Media
Media

Tyler Landman is considered by many as one of the greatest British boulderers of all time, and at one point one of the world’s best. Ty has displayed excellent ability from a young age with him impressively repeating Voyager (8B), The Ace (8B) and Dreamtime (pre break) (8B+) at 15!

The following year he repeated the legendary Jade (8B+) and Ode to the Modern Man (8B+). Over the next year he would repeat serval hard boulders including Practice of the Wild (8B+), New Base Line (8B+) and Radja (8B+).

In February of 2009 Ty went to Fontainebleau where his exploits were captured in Between The Trees by Keith Bradbury, in which he ascended multiple hard boulders, but most notably Satan i Helvete Assis (Pre December 2013) (8C). He was also the 2017 British Bouldering Champion.

Interestingly with Ty despite being at the top of the global bouldering world his focus switched to that of a career as a doctor. In 2024 Ty achieved this goal graduating as a doctor in America.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/outspoken_-_tyler_landman-13258

[2] https://soundcloud.com/user-569917310/outspoken-tyler-landman

Media

Aged 15 with partner Kurt Reider 16 making them probably the youngest team to climb the route.

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/kurt.rieder.77

[2] https://www.instagram.com/bill.climbingadventures/

References

[1] Instagram Story

Originally given 8A but very morpho, with the name referring to Dan Varian who found and tried the line before the FA.

Media

Yet another close flash attempt, falling 3 moves before the lip.

References

[1] https://www.adamondra.com/emotional-landscapes-8c-flash/

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/DWHG1kXjEMO/

Media
Media