Climbing History
A selected history of climbing and mountaineering through the climbers, climbs and media.
3738 Climbers
7409 Climbs
19320 Ascents
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Yvon Chouinard
Yvon Chouinard is an American climber who was extremely influential in the 1960s and 1970s. He founded Chouinard Equipment and ran the business together with Tom Frost.
Yvon is credited with kick-starting the move to clean climbing (i.e. without the use of pitons which damage the rock) in the US in the early 70s, most notably through the publication of the following essay in the Chouinard 1972 catalogue. This is particularly notable as pitons were one of their best selling items at the time. Chouinard's clean ascent of The Nose (A2) with Bruce Carson demonstrated the validity of this approach.
The 1960s marked an awakening in American climbing characterized by a vast increase in climbing activity, closely paralleled by a corresponding improvement in technique and equipment. Significant climbing advances have resulted. On the other hand, this combination is producing a serious problem—deterioration of the climbing environment. The deterioration is twofold, involving the physical aspect of the mountains and the moral integrity of the climbers.
No longer can we assume the earth’s resources are limitless; that there are ranges of unclimbed peaks extending endlessly beyond the horizon. Mountains are finite, and despite their massive appearance, they are fragile.
Although alpine tundra, meadows, trees, lakes and streams are all endangered, our primary concern here is with deterioration of the rock itself. Granite is delicate and soft—much softer than the alloy steel pitons being hammered into it. On popular routes in Yosemite and elsewhere the cracks are degenerating into series of piton holes. Flakes and slabs are being pried loose and broken off as a result of repeated placement and removal of hard pitons.
We can offer a few immediate solutions. Stay off climbs you do not intend to finish. Don’t climb up to Sickle Ledge unless you plan to do the entire Nose. Do not use artificial aid on free climbs. But most of all, start using chocks. Chocks and runners are not damaging to the rock and provide a pleasurable and practical alternative to pitons on most free, and many artificial climbs. Do not use pitons on established clean routes. Where a piton is necessary a fixed piton should be considered and documented in local guide books. Routes of 5.7 difficulty were climbed 60 years ago in England. Today the footholds on these routes are well polished, but because pitons have not been used the protection cracks are still in mint condition. We urge to your attention Doug Robinson's excellent treatise on the joys and ways of pitonless climbing. It was written especially for this catalog.
Equally serious is a moral deterioration. Armed with ever more advanced gadgetry and techniques the style of technical climbing is gradually becoming so degraded that elements vital to the climbing experience—adventure and appreciation of the mountain environment itself—are being submerged. Siege tactics, bolt ladders, bat hooks, bash chocks, detailed topos and equipment lists, plus a guaranteed rescue diminish rather than enhance a climb. Even now existing techniques and technology are so powerful that almost any climb imaginable can be realized, and the fear of the unknown reduced to rote exercise.
Mad bolters are among the worst offenders of the alpine environment. Young climbers must learn that bolting is done as a substitute for climbing. Guides, climbing schools and established climbers have a heavy responsibility here.
We believe the only way to ensure the climbing experience for ourselves and future generations is to preserve (1) the vertical wilderness, and (2) the adventure inherent in the experience. Really, the only insurance to guarantee this adventure and the safest insurance to maintain it is exercise of moral restraint and individual responsibility.
Thus, it is the style of the climb, not attainment of the summit, which is the measure of personal success. Traditionally stated, each of us must consider whether the end is more important than the means. Given the vital importance of style we suggest that the keynote is simplicity. The fewer gadgets between the climber and the climb, the greater is the chance to attain the desired communication with oneself—and nature.
The equipment offered in this catalog attempts to support this ethic. Basically multi-purpose, the articles are carefully designed to serve the overall needs of the climber. More than mere aids, they are conceived to be used in meaningful combination with accepted technique to elevate the individual to a rewarding alpine experience.
As we enter this new era of mountaineering, re-examine your motives for climbing. Employ restraint and good judgment in the use of Chouinard equipment. Remember the rock, the other climber—climb clean. [2]
Chouinard started the clothing brand Patagonia in 1973 and gradually started spending more of his energy there. In 1989 Chouinard equipment ran in to trouble when several lawsuits were filed against the firm due to improper use of their equipment [3]. The firm filed for bankruptcy before the assets were purchased by a group of former employees under the newly formed company Black Diamond.
References
[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CTuyHV6IcCc/
[2] A Word..., Tom Frost and Yvon Chouinard, 1972 https://www.patagonia.com/stories/a-word/story-116598.html
[3] https://www.latimes.com/archives/la-xpm-1989-05-11-we-3605-story.html
Yvon Chouinard is an American climber who was extremely influential in the 1960s and 1970s. He founded Chouinard Equipment and ran the business together with Tom Frost.
Yvon is credited with kick-starting the move to clean climbing (i.e. without the use of pitons which damage the rock) in the US in the early 70s, most notably through the publication of the following essay in the Chouinard 1972 catalogue. This is particularly notable as pitons were one of their best selling items at the time. Chouinard's clean ascent of The Nose (A2) with Bruce Carson demonstrated the validity of this approach.
The 1960s marked an awakening in American climbing characterized by a vast increase in climbing activity, closely paralleled by a corresponding improvement in technique and equipment. Significant climbing advances have resulted. On the other hand, this combination is producing a serious problem—deterioration of the climbing environment. The deterioration is twofold, involving the physical aspect of the mountains and the moral integrity of the climbers.
No longer can we assume the earth’s resources are limitless; that there are ranges of unclimbed peaks extending endlessly beyond the horizon. Mountains are finite, and despite their massive appearance, they are fragile.
Although alpine tundra, meadows, trees, lakes and streams are all endangered, our primary concern here is with deterioration of the rock itself. Granite is delicate and soft—much softer than the alloy steel pitons being hammered into it. On popular routes in Yosemite and elsewhere the cracks are degenerating into series of piton holes. Flakes and slabs are being pried loose and broken off as a result of repeated placement and removal of hard pitons.
We can offer a few immediate solutions. Stay off climbs you do not intend to finish. Don’t climb up to Sickle Ledge unless you plan to do the entire Nose. Do not use artificial aid on free climbs. But most of all, start using chocks. Chocks and runners are not damaging to the rock and provide a pleasurable and practical alternative to pitons on most free, and many artificial climbs. Do not use pitons on established clean routes. Where a piton is necessary a fixed piton should be considered and documented in local guide books. Routes of 5.7 difficulty were climbed 60 years ago in England. Today the footholds on these routes are well polished, but because pitons have not been used the protection cracks are still in mint condition. We urge to your attention Doug Robinson's excellent treatise on the joys and ways of pitonless climbing. It was written especially for this catalog.
Equally serious is a moral deterioration. Armed with ever more advanced gadgetry and techniques the style of technical climbing is gradually becoming so degraded that elements vital to the climbing experience—adventure and appreciation of the mountain environment itself—are being submerged. Siege tactics, bolt ladders, bat hooks, bash chocks, detailed topos and equipment lists, plus a guaranteed rescue diminish rather than enhance a climb. Even now existing techniques and technology are so powerful that almost any climb imaginable can be realized, and the fear of the unknown reduced to rote exercise.
Mad bolters are among the worst offenders of the alpine environment. Young climbers must learn that bolting is done as a substitute for climbing. Guides, climbing schools and established climbers have a heavy responsibility here.
We believe the only way to ensure the climbing experience for ourselves and future generations is to preserve (1) the vertical wilderness, and (2) the adventure inherent in the experience. Really, the only insurance to guarantee this adventure and the safest insurance to maintain it is exercise of moral restraint and individual responsibility.
Thus, it is the style of the climb, not attainment of the summit, which is the measure of personal success. Traditionally stated, each of us must consider whether the end is more important than the means. Given the vital importance of style we suggest that the keynote is simplicity. The fewer gadgets between the climber and the climb, the greater is the chance to attain the desired communication with oneself—and nature.
The equipment offered in this catalog attempts to support this ethic. Basically multi-purpose, the articles are carefully designed to serve the overall needs of the climber. More than mere aids, they are conceived to be used in meaningful combination with accepted technique to elevate the individual to a rewarding alpine experience.
As we enter this new era of mountaineering, re-examine your motives for climbing. Employ restraint and good judgment in the use of Chouinard equipment. Remember the rock, the other climber—climb clean. [2]
Chouinard started the clothing brand Patagonia in 1973 and gradually started spending more of his energy there. In 1989 Chouinard equipment ran in to trouble when several lawsuits were filed against the firm due to improper use of their equipment [3]. The firm filed for bankruptcy before the assets were purchased by a group of former employees under the newly formed company Black Diamond.
References
[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CTuyHV6IcCc/
[2] A Word..., Tom Frost and Yvon Chouinard, 1972 https://www.patagonia.com/stories/a-word/story-116598.html
[3] https://www.latimes.com/archives/la-xpm-1989-05-11-we-3605-story.html
Pics + Vids
Featuring 9372 pictures and videos. Try searching for a climber, climb or summit to see pics and videos.
Steve McClure on Olympiad E10
Nicolai Užnik on Brain Rot 8C
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Explore
Fancy a look around? You can browse by climber or by climbs, or you can check out some lists. For example
- All sport ascents of 9b or above
- British women who have climbed 7C or above
- British men who have climbed 8c or above
Podcasts
Featuring 4077 podcasts. Try searching for a climber to see podcasts with them, or check out some of these podcasts:
- Aidan Roberts on The Careless Talk Climbing Podcast, November 2023
- Colin Duffy on CIA - Climbing Intelligence Agency, April 2022
- John Sherman on The Enormocast, July 2021
- Aidan Roberts on The Nugget, February 2023
Library
Featuring 11033 items in the library. Try a search to see what you can find, or check out these library items:
- Raspers Only (2024) Film
- Alpine Journal 1962 355-360 Henderson NAmerica Notes (1962) Journal
- Black Rocks & Cratcliffe (1949) Guidebook
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References
References
[1] Portrait by Dean Fidelman https://www.instagram.com/p/CpN7MQAJom7/
[2] Free Soloing with a Parachute, from Reel Rock https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-DWu4HygkBU
[3] Portrait by Jim Hurst https://www.instagram.com/p/DXcaJD9EYr0/
The long awaited second ascent.
The day before I did it I told myself that this Friday will be the last day I will try it this season, due to work and summer getting so close, I wasn't going to have the chance to come back. When I got to the crag I knew I was going to do it, something in the back of my mind was really aware of that. [3]
Eder was able to milk the knee bar rest after the Rainshadow crux, after extensive training he was able to stay there for 2 mins at a time. Steve McClure was using the knee but was unable to get much out of it.
When I first tried the kneebar I couldn’t get no hands, took me 3-4 sessions to get 5 seconds no hands, and months training my legs so I could stay longer, last November managed for the first time 1 min on the kneebar and after a winter of training I got 3 min for the first time last month. The kneebar is hard very painful and super intense, what you see on the video is the outcome of loads of really hard work, loads of pain and loads off pinning off the kneebar buttering your knees… My mate Josh Ibbertson is also trying the route with the same knee pads and he struggles to get 30 seconds no hands… he is been trying the route for as long as I have.
So the training, I did loads of strength training like weighted squad deadlifting. Also some pain tolerance training for my right toes, because the kneebar is so intense that my right toe will really hurt due to the pressure you inevitably apply on the heel. All that pressure transfers through the shoe getting really tight on the toes. [4]
References
[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tAeVbsv0mgc
[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/CdnEuVmD5Ec/
[3] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2022/05/eder_lomba_makes_second_ascent_of_rainman_9b-73054
[4] https://www.8a.nu/news/lombas-9b-knee-pad-technique-and-leg-strength-story-nio3r
[5] https://www.climber.co.uk/news/eder-lomba-talks-about-his-climbing-and-rainman-ascent/
[6] https://gearjunkie.com/climbing/ibbertson-lomba-repeat-rainman-englands-hardest-climb
Known as 'The Easy Easy' project before it was done. 127 sessions spanning 10 seasons.
Steve's diary of his attempts on the route is available here http://www.steve-mcclure.com/articles/131-rainman-saga.
16/5/2013 - session 40, on a training link of Bat Route in to the top of Rainman.
Great conditions. I knew I would do it. But I didn’t! Foiled by the snagging krab, Rich Heap had left it open when filming. Gutted! 2nd go fell on heartbreaker slap, 3rd go actually almost held the sloper. All over it today, it just would not give in!
20/4/2014 - Session 53
Waste of time today, and very frustrating. Whats the point of spending all season building back up to a level that is nowhere near. Basically I already know its too hard, the curve doesn’t come close to the target. I’m out of time already. Mentally its over, probably forever, with motivation to reach high points only. Managed floor to undercut clip. And yes, that’s high, but its nowhere, again!
6/11/2014
Evolution at Ravenstor lapped 3 times with short rest. Puts perspective on Malham project!
5/6/2015 - Session 74
Twice to stab from belay! Bah, just can’t nail that move! And I can’t get this link [from Raindogs belay to top]. I think this link is harder than Batman. It must be 9a+ as a link. So font 8a into 8c+ = 9a+? sounds about right. Or maybe this link is even harder? I’ve spent 75 days now and still not done this link. But a bit wet, crag starting to seep – what, its june!
15/6/2015 - Session 76
managed from floor to stab! Definite high point! Some beta changes mean I am flying through! Feels awesome. But battered later and failed to get through bulge twice. Very good though. And a good point to finish the season. Still feels like a long way, but enough to keep me motivated to get back on it.
29/9/2015 - Session 79
Good efforts today from floor, once to stab, once to razor. That’s awesome. BUT spotted a major sequence change, getting LH into pocket instead of R, much easier, then use the tooth as a side pull for RH to move LH to the micro block, then RH into pocket. Absolutely can’t believe I didn’t spot this. All that messing around years ago trying to find a way to get RH into pocket!! And then years of trying the section with the poor undercut. What an idiot! Very exciting!
5/10/2015 - Session 80
Condensed crag, even failed on RD! But went on upper bit excited about new sequence. But straight away ripped the tooth off, totally lost, no chance of repair. Gutted. How about that for a teaser? Not happy.
19/4/2016 - Session 91
Floor to Stab move!! Very exciting. A real high-point. So just maybe it could be possible? If I hold the pocket well I should get a move higher, then it’s the heartbreaker… that’s really close… wow, it could go!!
23/5/2016 - Session 99
Last day, and I knew it. Heart not in it, I figure I am burnt out now, I’ve been going backwards a while. However, that pressure-off thing helped, and from floor I got fingers in pocket, soo close to holding, but not quite. But I was blown really. I need to have a bit left there and I didn’t. But good place to leave it, I’m pretty psyched!
7/11/2016 - Session 108
The end!!! Good conditions, wanted progress, but fell off bulge 3 times! Gutted really. Mentally gave up. Will I even come back?? I’m now so many years in. Its been great, and to be fair there isn’t much else to do at Malham, but that’s not my reason for being on it. I love the process, the journey. But now it really looks like the journey has no end, and I don’t think I can just carry on forever!
28/4/2017 - Session 117
2 x floor to stab. So back on high points. Feel pretty good this year. Not sure if it’s the micro beta? Bulge I’m getting most times, Kneebar I’m really milking though its so intense on the body, then I’m so fast on the next section.
12/5/2017 - Session 121
Progress. Beta worked. So marginal! But twice held the pocket. Once just for a second, then next go managed to move feet. So a breakthrough. Now it actually feels possible. For the first time ever its ON!! Need more progress though. Its still a bunch more after that.
21/5/2017 - Session 124
Good conditions, though warm at first. But ominous, as forecast truly boiling. Everyone talking of sacking off Malham. No one coming after today. I had 2 goes, 1st held stab, but not well, 2nd just slapped stab. That’s it, its over again. But last move. Then I had a last go ‘to get the draws out’ but conditions amazing, just kept going, no pressure. Then I’d held the heartbreaker, and the RH crimp, foot on edge, reached for final undercut… but somehow just short. 5mm further and I was in. But NO. so gutted. Suddenly I was devastated. First time ever on this route I have been truly gutted
4/6/2017 - Session 127
YES!! Was it always on? I don’t think so. Was this my last chance? Maybe, forecast is truly awful!! Pressure was on! First go was great weather, but rock a tad warm from sun. Almost held heartbreaker. Then tired. Felt drained, disappointed, felt that was it! Rested 3 hr, then nailed it. BUT so close, like ridiculous, closest ever, almost dropped very last move to good holds, and then even in BR I absolutely struggled. Panicked at BR rest and stayed for ages. But then the last 8a wall was easy, and just SOO much fun. Every move I knew it was gonna happen, the moves just flowed, and then at last, it was over.
References
[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2017/06/steve_mcclure_on_rainman_9b-71135