Climbing History
A selected history of climbing and mountaineering through the climbers, climbs and media.
4256 Climbers
8228 Climbs
21981 Ascents
Featured
Fred Rouhling
Fred Rouhling was a controversial figure during the late '90s and early 2000s. With a string of hard ascents in a relatively off-the-beaten track location there were many people who doubted his ascents, not helped by the fact that some of his key routes were unashamedly chipped (for example De L'Autre Côté du Ciel). He is notable for a particularly dynamic style of climbing which would be familiar in a comp today, but was unusual at the time; routes such as Hugh (9a) were manufactured to create this style.
His route Akira was particularly contentious. When he made the first ascent he gave it the then unheard of grade of 9b at a time when 9a+ didn't exist.
A 2005 profile by Pete Ward [2] helped to dispel some of the more outlandish myths, and many of his routes have now received repeats which confirm their quality and difficulty. However, his route Akira did receive a notable downgrade to 9a after being repeated by Sébastien Bouin and Lucien Martinez.
References
[1] Interview with Relais Vertical Part 1 https://youtu.be/xqk0nQCNtpY
[2] Interview with Relais Vertical Part 2 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=enFSnkF25eI
[3] The Other Side of Fred Rouhling by Pete Ward, 15th June 2012 https://www.climbing.com/people/fred-rouhling/
[4] Interview with camptocamp.org, October 2008 https://www.camptocamp.org/articles/143240/fr/interview-de-fred-rouhling-21-10-2008-
[5] https://open.spotify.com/episode/4T8j5taHKyu11HnWMKvxWT?
[6] Interview for On The Edge Issue 102, page 40
Fred Rouhling was a controversial figure during the late '90s and early 2000s. With a string of hard ascents in a relatively off-the-beaten track location there were many people who doubted his ascents, not helped by the fact that some of his key routes were unashamedly chipped (for example De L'Autre Côté du Ciel). He is notable for a particularly dynamic style of climbing which would be familiar in a comp today, but was unusual at the time; routes such as Hugh (9a) were manufactured to create this style.
His route Akira was particularly contentious. When he made the first ascent he gave it the then unheard of grade of 9b at a time when 9a+ didn't exist.
A 2005 profile by Pete Ward [2] helped to dispel some of the more outlandish myths, and many of his routes have now received repeats which confirm their quality and difficulty. However, his route Akira did receive a notable downgrade to 9a after being repeated by Sébastien Bouin and Lucien Martinez.
References
[1] Interview with Relais Vertical Part 1 https://youtu.be/xqk0nQCNtpY
[2] Interview with Relais Vertical Part 2 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=enFSnkF25eI
[3] The Other Side of Fred Rouhling by Pete Ward, 15th June 2012 https://www.climbing.com/people/fred-rouhling/
[4] Interview with camptocamp.org, October 2008 https://www.camptocamp.org/articles/143240/fr/interview-de-fred-rouhling-21-10-2008-
[5] https://open.spotify.com/episode/4T8j5taHKyu11HnWMKvxWT?
[6] Interview for On The Edge Issue 102, page 40
Pics + Vids
Featuring 10695 pictures and videos. Try searching for a climber, climb or summit to see pics and videos.
Patch Hammond on Small Things E6
David Firnenburg on Trainspotting 8B+
Charles Albert on Rainbow Rocket 8A
Franco Cookson on The Prow 8A
Support
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You may also be interested in the Mountain Heritage Trust, a charity dedicated to preserving the rich history of climbing and mountaineering. Their collection includes many unique and valuable items, from rare guidebooks through to the boots worn by Doug Scott on the 1977 Ogre expedition.
Explore
Fancy a look around? You can browse by climber or by climbs, or you can check out some lists. For example
- All sport ascents of 9b or above
- British women who have climbed 7C or above
- British men who have climbed 8c or above
Podcasts
Featuring 4313 podcasts. Try searching for a climber to see podcasts with them, or check out some of these podcasts:
- Aidan Roberts on The Careless Talk Climbing Podcast (2023)
- Dan Mirsky on TrainingBeta (2016)
- Chris Glastonbury on The Layback Podcast (2020)
- Drew Ruana on The RunOut Podcast (2024)
Library
Featuring 16158 items in the library. Try a search to see what you can find, or check out these library items:
- Eve Lancashire - Rare Lichen Pt1 (2016) Film
- Alpine Journal60 1955 25-30 Moseley Petit Dru (1955) Journal
- Llanberis (1987) Guidebook
Recent updates
British rock climber. Bristol area and wider south west activist and guidebook author.
British Peak District and south west England activist in the 1950s and 60s. Died climbing in the Avon Gorge.
But rock was his medium. On it he was superb. He was tall and slim with powerful arms and steel fingers and he moved over it with the ease and grace of an elongated leopard—never have I seen him awkward or harassed on even the most uncompromising climb. Whatever move he made it was photogenic. Bubbling with enthusiasm and assurance one could want no better companion on the rope and he was the safest climber with whom I have shared it. His death is such an ironic tragedy. [1]
References
[1] Obituary in the Alpine Journal 1977 by John Cleare. Alpine Journal 1977 265-273 In Memoriam
But rock was his medium. On it he was superb. He was tall and slim with powerful arms and steel fingers and he moved over it with the ease and grace of an elongated leopard—never have I seen him awkward or harassed on even the most uncompromising climb. Whatever move he made it was photogenic. Bubbling with enthusiasm and assurance one could want no better companion on the rope and he was the safest climber with whom I have shared it. His death is such an ironic tragedy. [1]
References
[1] Obituary in the Alpine Journal 1977 by John Cleare. Alpine Journal 1977 265-273 In Memoriam
British rock climber, introduced to climbing by Peter and Barrie Biven after giving them a lift hitch-hiking.
Peck had a background in manufacturing and developed and produced stainless steel pitons, early examples of wired nuts (Peck Crackers), and manufactured the MacInnes-Peck all metal ice axe.
References
[1] https://smhc.co.uk/collection/peck-crackers/
[2] https://smhc.co.uk/collection/macinnes-peck-all-metal-ice-axe/
British rock climber, introduced to climbing by Peter Biven after giving him a lift hitch-hiking.
British pioneer of adventurous rock climbs. COE of the British Mountaineering Council 2001-2020.
References
Gritstone enthusiast from the 1970s to present day, guidebook author and new router.
Gritstone enthusiast from the 1970s to present day.
British Rock Climber and Alpinist most active in the 1970s. A survivor from 'the generation (of British Mountaineers) that nearly climbed itself into extinction' [1]
References
[1] Hall, B (2022) High Risk: Climbing To Extinction. UK: Adventure Books
British rock climber, mountaineer, guide, rigging and film safety consultant. Boardman-Tasker prize winning author.
References
[1] Hall, B (2022) High Risk: Climbing To Extinction. UK: Adventure Books
British rock climber, mountaineer and author.
References
[1] Hall, B (2022) High Risk: Climbing To Extinction. UK: Adventure Books