Climbing History
A selected history of climbing and mountaineering through the climbers, climbs and media.
4033 Climbers
7839 Climbs
20673 Ascents
Featured
Fred Rouhling
Fred Rouhling was a controversial figure during the late 90s and early 2000s. With a string of hard ascents in a relatively off the beaten track location there were many people who doubted his ascents, not helped by the fact that many of his routes were unashamedly chipped (for example De L'Autre Côté du Ciel).
His route Akira was particularly contentious. When he made the first ascent he gave it the then unheard of grade of 9b at a time when 9a+ didn't exist.
A 2005 profile by Pete Ward [2] helped to dispel some of the more outlandish myths, and many of his routes have now received repeats which confirm their quality and difficulty. However, his route Akira did receive a notable downgrade to 9a after being repeated by Sébastien Bouin and Lucien Martinez.
References
[1] Interview with Relais Vertical Part 1 https://youtu.be/xqk0nQCNtpY
[2] Interview with Relais Vertical Part 2 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=enFSnkF25eI
[3] The Other Side of Fred Rouhling by Pete Ward, 15th June 2012 https://www.climbing.com/people/fred-rouhling/
[4] Interview with camptocamp.org, October 2008 https://www.camptocamp.org/articles/143240/fr/interview-de-fred-rouhling-21-10-2008-
[5] https://open.spotify.com/episode/4T8j5taHKyu11HnWMKvxWT?
[6] Interview for On The Edge Issue 102, page 40
Fred Rouhling was a controversial figure during the late 90s and early 2000s. With a string of hard ascents in a relatively off the beaten track location there were many people who doubted his ascents, not helped by the fact that many of his routes were unashamedly chipped (for example De L'Autre Côté du Ciel).
His route Akira was particularly contentious. When he made the first ascent he gave it the then unheard of grade of 9b at a time when 9a+ didn't exist.
A 2005 profile by Pete Ward [2] helped to dispel some of the more outlandish myths, and many of his routes have now received repeats which confirm their quality and difficulty. However, his route Akira did receive a notable downgrade to 9a after being repeated by Sébastien Bouin and Lucien Martinez.
References
[1] Interview with Relais Vertical Part 1 https://youtu.be/xqk0nQCNtpY
[2] Interview with Relais Vertical Part 2 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=enFSnkF25eI
[3] The Other Side of Fred Rouhling by Pete Ward, 15th June 2012 https://www.climbing.com/people/fred-rouhling/
[4] Interview with camptocamp.org, October 2008 https://www.camptocamp.org/articles/143240/fr/interview-de-fred-rouhling-21-10-2008-
[5] https://open.spotify.com/episode/4T8j5taHKyu11HnWMKvxWT?
[6] Interview for On The Edge Issue 102, page 40
Pics + Vids
Featuring 10018 pictures and videos. Try searching for a climber, climb or summit to see pics and videos.
Neil Gresham on San Simian E8
Aidan Roberts on Spots of Time 9A
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Fancy a look around? You can browse by climber or by climbs, or you can check out some lists. For example
- All sport ascents of 9b or above
- British women who have climbed 7C or above
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Podcasts
Featuring 3914 podcasts. Try searching for a climber to see podcasts with them, or check out some of these podcasts:
- Mercedes Pollmeier on TrainingBeta (2017)
- Robbie Phillips on Lattice Training (2021)
- Jesse Guthrie on Written in Stone (2025)
- Alain Robert on Climbing Gold (2026)
Library
Featuring 14948 items in the library. Try a search to see what you can find, or check out these library items:
- Free at Last (1988) Film
- Alpine Journal 1924 Vol 36 79-83 Dauphine Brook (1924) Journal
- Cornwall-West Penwith (1984) Guidebook
Recent updates
Raven Tor is a crag in the UK's Peak District that is known for its concentration of hard, crimpy sport climbs. Initially a venue for aid climbers, it was part of the sport climbing boom in the UK during the 1980s and 1990s, where the aid routes were freed, initially on the remnants of fixed gear from the aid climbers, and then increasingly on bolts placed specifically to create sport routes.
The crag is home to many historically significant lines:
- In 1982 Ron Fawcett free climbed The Prow (8a), producing one of the hardest routes in the UK at the time.
- Revelations (Pre-1999) (8a+) was a Jerry Moffatt addition, notable for his use of redpoint tactics, a style that was new to the UK at the time.
- Mecca - The Mid-life Crisis (8b+) was the scene of a historic siege by Martin Atkinson, who achieved success after a prolonged effort to establish the hardest route in the UK at the time.
- Hubble (9a) is Ben Moon's big addition to the crag and one of the hardest routes in the world when it was first climbed.
- Evolution (8c+) was Jerry Moffatt's last big addition to the crag and has stood the test of time as a stern test of crimping.
In 1998, Steve McClure established Mutation, adding the hardest route at the crag. At the time, Steve suggested a grade of 9a, but it has proven very tricky to repeat, with Will Bosi suggesting the upgrade after taking many sessions to repeat it. At 9a+ it would be one of the earliest routes at the grade.
While the difficulty of sport routes has stagnated at the crag the potential for hard boulder problems has been increasingly realised. While the quality of the lines leaves something to be desired, there is no shortage of small holds. Most notably, Will Bosi added The Wild South (8C+) in 2023 and Realm of Tor’ment (9A) in 2025.
References
[1] Pinches Wall topo from Bouldering in the Peak District Vol II (1995), page 91 /file/1e8a925b-d717-ca3c-8248-1167ca874601/pinches wall topo.png
[2] Pinches Wall problems from Bouldering in the Peak District Vol II (1995), page 90 /file/9e5b3135-e575-784c-ec59-714e27490b2d/pinches wall problems.png
Raven Tor is a crag in the UK's Peak District that is known for its concentration of hard, crimpy sport climbs. Initially a venue for the aid climbers, it was part of the sport climbing boom in the UK during the 80s and 90s, where the aid routes were freed, initially on the remnants of fixed gear from the aid climbers, and then increasingly on bolts placed specifically to create sport routes.
The crag is home to many historically significant lines:
- In 1982 Ron Fawcett free climbed The Prow (8a) to produce one of the hardest routes in the UK at the time.
- Revelations (Pre-1999) (8a+) was a Jerry Moffatt addition notable for his use of redpoint tactics, at the time a style that was new to the UK.
- Mecca - The Mid-life Crisis (8b+) was the scene of a historic siege by Martin Atkinson, who grasped success from the jaws of defeat to establish the hardest route in the UK at the time.
- Hubble (9a) is Ben Moon's big addition to the crag and one of the hardest routes in the world when it was first climbed.
- Evolution (8c+) was Jerry Moffatt's last big addition to the crag and has stood the test of time as a stern test of crimping.
In 1998 Steve McClure established Mutation adding the hardest route at the crag. At the time Steve suggested a grade of 9a but it has proven very tricky to repeat with Will Bosi suggesting the upgrade after taking many sessions to repeat it. At 9a+ it would be one of the earliest routes at the grade.
While the difficulty of sport routes has stagnated at the crag the potential for hard boulder problems has been increasingly realised. While the quality of the lines leaves something to be desired, there is no shortage of small holds. Most notably, Will Bosi added The Wild South (8C+) in 2023 and Realm of Tor’ment (9A) in 2025.
References
[1] Pinches Wall topo from Bouldering in the Peak District Vol II (1995), page 91 /file/1e8a925b-d717-ca3c-8248-1167ca874601/pinches wall topo.png
[2] Pinches Wall problems from Bouldering in the Peak District Vol II (1995), page 90 /file/9e5b3135-e575-784c-ec59-714e27490b2d/pinches wall problems.png
Jerry Moffatt's hardest and final route at Raven Tor, blasting up a line of punishing crimps. Ben Moon, who repeated the route aged 52:
A classic Ravens Tor [sic] route, only 10m long but basically sustained bouldering all the way. Probably hard Font 8a into hard route 8b with no rests and a heartbreak dyno to finish. [1]
Fellow steel-fingered Tor veteran Steve McClure:
Another great name from Jerry; he grabbed most of the best names, in part because he was first in the queue. This one was named after the progression of climbing at the crag, as it evolved from Sardine (7b+) and Body Machine (7c+) into the cutting edge of world standards. […] [2]
References
[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/steve_mcclure_the_evolution_of_man-16947
Jerry Moffatt's hardest and final route at Raven Tor, blasting up a line of punishing crimps.
Ben Moon, who repeated the route aged 52:
A classic Ravens Tor [sic] route, only 10m long but basically sustained bouldering all the way. Probably hard Font 8a into hard route 8b with no rests and a heartbreak dyno to finish. [1]
Fellow steel-fingered Tor veteran Steve McClure:
Another great name from Jerry; he grabbed most of the best names, in part because he was first in the queue. This one was named after the progression of climbing at the crag, as it evolved from Sardine (7b+) and Body Machine (7c+) into the cutting edge of world standards. […] [2]
References
[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/steve_mcclure_the_evolution_of_man-16947
Jerry Moffatt's hardest and final route at Raven Tor, blasting up a line of punishing crimps.
Ben Moon, who repeated the route aged 52:
A classic Ravens Tor [sic] route, only 10m long but basically sustained bouldering all the way. Probably hard Font 8a into hard route 8b with no rests and a heartbreak dyno to finish. [1]
Fellow Tor veteran Steve McClure:
Another great name from Jerry; he grabbed most of the best names, in part because he was first in the queue. This one was named after the progression of climbing at the crag, as it evolved from Sardine (7b+) and Body Machine (7c+) into the cutting edge of world standards. […] [2]
References
[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/steve_mcclure_the_evolution_of_man-16947
Jerry Moffatt's hardest and final route at Raven Tor, blasting up a line of punishing crimps.
Ben Moon, who repeated the route aged 52:
A classic Ravens Tor [sic] route, only 10m long but basically sustained bouldering all the way. Probably hard Font 8a into hard route 8b with no rests and a heartbreak dyno to finish. [1]
Fellow Tor veteran Steve McClure:
Another great name from Jerry; he grabbed most of the best names, in part because he was first in the queue. This one was named after the progression of climbing at the crag, as it evolved from Sardine (7b+) and Body Machine (7c+) into the cutting edge of world standards. […]
The hardest moves are in the lower section with a Font 8A boulder problem taking you directly into the upper wall. The upper wall is 8b at least, and in the most typical of Raven Tor styles, with fiercely crimpy and powerful moves that lead relentlessly into the final lunge leftwards for the finishing jug. [2]
References
[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/steve_mcclure_the_evolution_of_man-16947
Jerry's hardest and final route at Raven Tor, blasting up a line of punishing crimps.
Ben Moon, who repeated the route aged 52:
A classic Ravens Tor [sic] route, only 10m long but basically sustained bouldering all the way. Probably hard Font 8a into hard route 8b with no rests and a heartbreak dyno to finish. [1]
Fellow Tor veteran Steve McClure:
Another great name from Jerry; he grabbed most of the best names, in part because he was first in the queue. This one was named after the progression of climbing at the crag, as it evolved from Sardine (7b+) and Body Machine (7c+) into the cutting edge of world standards. […]
The hardest moves are in the lower section with a Font 8A boulder problem taking you directly into the upper wall. The upper wall is 8b at least, and in the most typical of Raven Tor styles, with fiercely crimpy and powerful moves that lead relentlessly into the final lunge leftwards for the finishing jug. [2]
References
[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/steve_mcclure_the_evolution_of_man-16947
The first 7a route in France.