Climbing History

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Rainbow Jambaia | E7 Trad climb at Angel Falls

First free ascent of the main angel falls amphitheatre wall by a substantially new line. Its 31 pitches included nine E7s and took the seven-person team nineteen days to climb. The route overhangs some 60m in its 1,000m length, making it a contender for the most overhanging big wall in the world.

The route was approached from the ground with the hardest pitches headpointed. No bolts were placed for lead protection, five were placed as portaledge anchors. The team took three weeks to ascend the wall, living off portaledges for most of it. Miles Gibson did pitch 27, E7 6b, after 16 days on the wall.

Route: Rainbow Jambaia (31 pitches, E7 6b): All-free ascent of the Angel Falls wall, following the general line of Ruta Directa (1,150m, VI 6b A4, Gálvez-Medinabeitía, 1990), with many variations and an independent finish for the final eight pitches; Anne Arran, John Arran (U.K.), Ivan Calderón (Ven.), Miles Gibson (U.K.), Ben Heason (U.K.), Alex Klenov (Rus.), and Alfredo Rangel (Ven.), March 18-April 5, 2005.

References

[1] https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200613400/Rainbow-Jambaia

First free ascent of the main angel falls amphitheatre wall by a substantially new line. Its 31 pitches included nine E7s and took the seven-person team nineteen days to climb. The route overhangs some 60m in its 1,000m length, making it a contender for the most overhanging big wall in the world.

The route was approached from the ground with the hardest pitches headpointed. No bolts were placed for lead protection, five were placed as portaledge anchors. The team took three weeks to ascend the wall, living off portaledges for most of it. Miles Gibson did pitch 27, E7 6b, after 16 days on the wall.

Route: Rainbow Jambaia (31 pitches, E7 6b): All-free ascent of the Angel Falls wall, following the general line of Ruta Directa (1,150m, VI 6b A4, Gálvez-Medinabeitía, 1990), with many variations and an independent finish for the final eight pitches; Anne Arran, John Arran (U.K.), Ivan Calderón (Ven.), Miles Gibson (U.K.), Ben Heason (U.K.), Alex Klenov (Rus.), and Alfredo Rangel (Ven.), March 18-April 5, 2005.

References

[1] https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200613400/Rainbow-Jambaia

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Miles came close but was not able to seal the deal.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/the_last_great_problems_on_grit-8068

A belay was taken on the girdle ledge and high runner placed in Cemetery Gates to protect the upper crux.

I led on sight with some difficulty up to the ledge and as there was no chalk couldn't see where the route went. There was a line pretty close to the Gates but I didn't think that was it as it was too close. I brought my brother up and he belayed.

In order to provide a bit of safety I put a runner just above him as I did not want to fall directly onto him. I went looking for the line and ended off setting up what is now the top section of lord of the flies, but was then unclimbed. Without any extra gear I pumped out and took a massive pendulum and even went around the arete.

After a rest on the ledge I led up what I then knew was the line quite close to the Gates. I was a bit disappointed that the holds even went a bit right at the top even closer to the Gates. I was also annoyed as I had missed the line first time.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/what_happened_to_graded_lists-792440

Dom Rowe's ascent of The Arch

A belay was taken on the girdle ledge and high runner placed in Cemetery Gates to protect the upper crux.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/what_happened_to_graded_lists-792440