Climbing History

A selected history of climbing and mountaineering through the climbers, climbs and media.


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Biographie | 9a+ Sport route at Céüse

Arnaud Petit climbed the pitch to a half height anchor in 1996 at a grade of 8c+. The full pitch was given the name Biographie but was later renamed Realization by the first ascenionist Chris Sharma. In line with French custom of routes being named by their equipper, it is now known as Biographie.

The route became famous as one of Chris Sharma's first big new routes and one of the earliest routes given 9a+, though notably not the first (several routes previously given 9a have subsequently been upgraded). His extended efforts on the route were documented in the film Dosage Volume 1.

Josh Lowell:

At one point Chris wanted to call it Get a Life, thankfully he changed his mind! [3]

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suVH2BuFEh0

[3] https://open.spotify.com/episode/14eXBiZUrV7LetCF132iNS?

Arnaud Petit climbed the pitch to a half height anchor in 1996 at a grade of 8c+. The full pitch was given the name Biographie but was later renamed Realization by the first ascenionist Chris Sharma. In line with French custom of routes being named by their equipper, it is now known as Biographie.

The route became famous as one of Chris Sharma's first big new routes and one of the earliest routes given 9a+, though notably not the first (several routes previously given 9a have subsequently been upgraded). His extended efforts on the route were documented in the film Dosage Volume 1.

Josh Lowell:

At one point Chris wanted to call it Get a Life, thankfully he changed his mind! [3]

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suVH2BuFEh0

[3] https://open.spotify.com/episode/14eXBiZUrV7LetCF132iNS?

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v13/14 FA. Links goldfish into a direct throw to the jug lip. Felt harder than Goldfish to me due to the necessary match and left hand throw (normal beta is to throw right hand to the next pinch). Sick power sustaining route regardless of the intricacies.

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When I did Flashing Lights in 2021 I immediately started trying this the next day. Ive likely spent around 30 days on it, coming back to it a few times every year since. Was always very certain it was 8C but now I’m not as certain ha, classic. Maybe a slash grade fits it better? For me it feels pretty similar to Monkey Wedding difficulty wise. Every hold is basically just a incut full crimp so your fingers get pretty tired by the 20th move… named after my dog since she’s the goodest girl.