Climbing History
A selected history of climbing and mountaineering through the climbers, climbs and media.
3608 Climbers
7162 Climbs
18665 Ascents
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Action Directe | 9a Sport route at Waldkopf
Action Directe is a sport route in the Waldkopf area of the Frankenjura in Germany. It was first climbed by Wolfgang Güllich in 1991 who suggested a grade UIAA grade of XI which equates to roughly 8c+/9a. It has since settled at 9a making it one of the first of the grade in the world.
The route is famous for its brutal, uncompromising climbing on one- and two-finger pockets. While training for the first ascent Wolfgang famously made use of the first campus board in the world (the board was erected in the Campus Centre gym in Nürnberg, hence the name).
After an easier initial section leading to a ledge and hands-off rest the route consists of around 20 hand moves, a pure power-endurance testpiece.
The route is named after the French far-left militant group.
References
[1] Written in Stone, Nov 2023 https://open.spotify.com/episode/3XjUWgzU7IMJgEWPzequbq?
[2] Written in Stone interview with Ben Cossey, Nov 2023 https://open.spotify.com/episode/0jLxfy5CRlOTykTmtG7MZe?
[3] Written in Stone interview with Alex Megos, Nov 2023 https://open.spotify.com/episode/5nhDlvoMlXj4jvCROnwSh6?
Action Directe is a sport route in the Waldkopf area of the Frankenjura in Germany. It was first climbed by Wolfgang Güllich in 1991 who suggested a grade UIAA grade of XI which equates to roughly 8c+/9a. It has since settled at 9a making it one of the first of the grade in the world.
The route is famous for its brutal, uncompromising climbing on one- and two-finger pockets. While training for the first ascent Wolfgang famously made use of the first campus board in the world (the board was erected in the Campus Centre gym in Nürnberg, hence the name).
After an easier initial section leading to a ledge and hands-off rest the route consists of around 20 hand moves, a pure power-endurance testpiece.
The route is named after the French far-left militant group.
References
[1] Written in Stone, Nov 2023 https://open.spotify.com/episode/3XjUWgzU7IMJgEWPzequbq?
[2] Written in Stone interview with Ben Cossey, Nov 2023 https://open.spotify.com/episode/0jLxfy5CRlOTykTmtG7MZe?
[3] Written in Stone interview with Alex Megos, Nov 2023 https://open.spotify.com/episode/5nhDlvoMlXj4jvCROnwSh6?
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Featuring 9057 pictures and videos. Try searching for a climber, climb or summit to see pics and videos.
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- All sport ascents of 9b or above
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Podcasts
Featuring 4007 podcasts. Try searching for a climber to see podcasts with them, or check out some of these podcasts:
- Carlo Traversi on TrainingBeta, February 2014
- Sébastien Berthe on The Careless Talk Climbing Podcast, May 2024
- Dave MacLeod on TrainingBeta, December 2015
- Stefano Ghisolfi on Lattice Training, February 2022
Library
Featuring 11023 items in the library. Try a search to see what you can find, or check out these library items:
- First Ascent (1982) Film
- Alpine Journal 2009 395-402 AC Notes (2009) Journal
- Almscliff Eliminates (2008) Guidebook
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References
References
Based on my own feeling, the 7th pitch is around 5.14a [8b+], and the 2nd pitch feels closer to 5.14c [8c+].
But when I first sent the 2nd pitch back in 2003, I was in top shape—physically, mentally, and technically—and even then it still took me five days to send. On top of that, the 2nd pitch was easily accessible and could be practiced almost like a single-pitch route from the ground. Now, with Sachi trying it this season, some holds have changed, and it seems to have become even harder. Taking all of that into account, I personally feel that the 2nd pitch could very well be 5.14d [9a].
References
[1] https://www.instagram.com/reel/DRIn7UikhbQ/
[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/DRhDMdkEtN2/
[3] https://www.instagram.com/p/DRDTfcdkoj5/
[4] https://www.threads.com/@yuji_hirayama_stonerider/post/DWgTfdmklyH?slof=1
Climbs into Dendrobium (8C) from the same start as Hydrangea (8C).
Originally 8B+, a contender for the first of the grade in the Forest. After a hold broke it became 8B.
Named after the book The Unbearable Lightness of Being by Milan Kundera [1].
References
[1] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Unbearable_Lightness_of_Being