Climbing History

A selected history of climbing and mountaineering through the climbers, climbs and media.


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Bellavista | E9 Trad climb on the Tre Cime

Bellavista pushed multi-pitch climbing in the Dolomites to new levels of difficulty via some wildly overhanging territory. The route tackles the enormous roofs of Cime Ovest overhanging some 60m over its 283m length. Lead protection comes primarily from pegs and some trad gear. Alexander Huber spent 5 weeks working the route prior to making the first ascent, describing it as “by far the wildest route on an alpine face”. [2]

In 2014 Huber suggested that holds on the crux pitch were better than when he made the first ascent:

... the crux pitch was heavily manipulated. There are many crystallized fossils in the dolomite rock of Tre Cime and if you work hard, you can break out many of these. Then remains a pocket or hole which looks basically natural. But for cleaning a toothbrush is definitely not enough: you need hammer and chisel. In the former crux traverse in the middle of the pitch you had to crimp thin edges where you find now big pockets, some of more than 10 centimeters in diameter. The character is heavily changed even though it remains to be a great and fantastic climb. The grading is somewhere in between 8b and 8b+. [1]

References

[1] https://www.8a.nu/news/bellavista-chipped-from-8c-to-8b-+

[2] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/bellavista-alexander-huber-climbs-8c-on-cima-ovest-di-lavaredo.html

Bellavista pushed multi-pitch climbing in the Dolomites to new levels of difficulty via some wildly overhanging territory. The route tackles the enormous roofs of Cime Ovest overhanging some 60m over its 283m length. Lead protection comes primarily from pegs and some trad gear. Alexander Huber spent 5 weeks working the route prior to making the first ascent, describing it as “by far the wildest route on an alpine face”. [2]

In 2014 Huber suggested that holds on the crux pitch were better than when he made the first ascent:

... the crux pitch was heavily manipulated. There are many crystallized fossils in the dolomite rock of Tre Cime and if you work hard, you can break out many of these. Then remains a pocket or hole which looks basically natural. But for cleaning a toothbrush is definitely not enough: you need hammer and chisel. In the former crux traverse in the middle of the pitch you had to crimp thin edges where you find now big pockets, some of more than 10 centimeters in diameter. The character is heavily changed even though it remains to be a great and fantastic climb. The grading is somewhere in between 8b and 8b+. [1]

References

[1] https://www.8a.nu/news/bellavista-chipped-from-8c-to-8b-+

[2] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/bellavista-alexander-huber-climbs-8c-on-cima-ovest-di-lavaredo.html

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Cathedral is a climbing area situated in the Canadian Rockies. Although it is in British Columbia, it is very near the provincial border and thus tends to see much more traffic from Albertan climbers due to its proximity to Canmore and Calgary.

Cathedral is a climbing area in British Columbia, Canada near the provincial border with Alberta. It tends to see much more traffic from Albertan climbers due to its relative closeness to Calgary.

Media

A hold broke between the FA and this ascent. Muller proposed V15 and invited further input on the grade.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C_-uRFfvbxZ/

Media
Media
Media

Nearly three decades elapsed between Muller's first encounter with the boulder and his send.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/DcCJtr7OiPL/