Climbing History

A selected history of climbing and mountaineering through the climbers, climbs and media.


4755 Climbers

8456 Climbs

22799 Ascents


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El Niño | E8 Trad climb on El Capitan

© On The Edge

The third route to be free climbed on El Capitan, after Salathé Wall and The Nose.

The first ascent by Alexander and Thomas Huber followed meticulous preparation, with every hold ticked and every gear placement labelled.

Just a few days after the first ascent, British teenagers Leo Houlding and Patch Hammond made an extraordinary almost-onsight ascent of the route for their first big wall.

The route incorporates parts of Continental Drift (a mixed free and aid route) then largely follows the North America Wall climbed free in its upper half. Until discovery of the Pineapple Express Variation all ascents used a short pendulum to overcome a 10m blank section.

References

[1] https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199901800

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On this day 12th November

2017 Jonny Kydd climbed You Can Go Now 8B at The Cuttings Boulderfield

Props to Huffy for putting up this beast! Second ascent? After doing all the moves on the first session I thought it was going to go down quickly but stacking hard move after hard move again and again resulted in 5 sessions of sitting under this boulder!

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Featuring 11166 pictures and videos. Try searching for a climber, climb or summit to see pics and videos.


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All-round American climber most notable to date for hard offwidth ascents. MacIlwaine is a journalist, currently [2026] the Associate Editor at Climbing and a former Yosemite Climber Steward.

References

[1] https://www.climbing.com/byline/sam-macilwaine

All-round American climber most notable to date for hard offwidth ascents. MacIlwaine is a journalist, currently [2026] the Associate Editor at /Climbing/ and a former Yosemite Climber Steward.

References

[1] https://www.climbing.com/byline/sam-macilwaine

All-round American climber most notable to date for hard offwidth ascents. MacIlwaine is a journalist, currently [2026] the Associate Editor at _Climbing_and a former Yosemite Climber Steward.

Media

The original beta.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/BN4wCPLBGnO

Nalle invested a huge amount of time and effort in to the problem before finally making the first ascent, spending 3 years and 4000+ attempts on the problem.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2016/10/nalle_hukkataival_puts_up_burden_of_dreams_-_font_9a-70761

[2] Send footy:

https://www.instagram.com/p/DNIgOzIs8zE/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jX2exjenOqE

[3] While working the problem Nalle posted about in a series of Instagram posts:

[4] The Lappnor Project (2017 film)

[5] The Lappnor Project Original Film on Youtube

Media

100+ sessions over 6 years. Giuliano worked out some new beta using some tiny crimps under the roof, he got close with this method but ultimately went back to a sequence that was pretty similar to the normal method.

Giuliano moved the wagon making the sit start in to a stand (thought at no change in grade).

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CPV-rUjj3tJ/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=edxHp45ECuE

Media

The third route to be free climbed on El Capitan after Salathé Wall and The Nose.

The first ascent by Alexander and Thomas Huber followed meticulous preparation, with every hold ticked and every gear placement labelled. Just a few days after the first ascent, British teenagers Leo Houlding and Patch Hammond made an extraordinary almost-onsight ascent of the route for their first big wall.

The route incorporates parts of Continental Drift (a mixed free and aid route) then largely follows the North America Wall climbed free in its upper half. Until discovery of the Pineapple Express Variation all ascents used a short pendulum to overcome a 10m blank section.

References

[1] https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199901800

[2] https://www.mountainproject.com/route/122243044/el-nino

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