A selected history of climbing and mountaineering through the climbers, climbs and media.
The third route to be free climbed on El Capitan, after Salathé Wall and The Nose.
The first ascent by Alexander and Thomas Huber followed meticulous preparation, with every hold ticked and every gear placement labelled.
Just a few days after the first ascent, British teenagers Leo Houlding and Patch Hammond made an extraordinary almost-onsight ascent of the route for their first big wall.
The route incorporates parts of Continental Drift (a mixed free and aid route) then largely follows the North America Wall climbed free in its upper half. Until discovery of the Pineapple Express Variation all ascents used a short pendulum to overcome a 10m blank section.
[1] https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199901800
The third route to be free climbed on El Capitan, after Salathé Wall and The Nose.
The first ascent by Alexander and Thomas Huber followed meticulous preparation, with every hold ticked and every gear placement labelled.
Just a few days after the first ascent, British teenagers Leo Houlding and Patch Hammond made an extraordinary almost-onsight ascent of the route for their first big wall.
The route incorporates parts of Continental Drift (a mixed free and aid route) then largely follows the North America Wall climbed free in its upper half. Until discovery of the Pineapple Express Variation all ascents used a short pendulum to overcome a 10m blank section.
[1] https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199901800
Props to Huffy for putting up this beast! Second ascent? After doing all the moves on the first session I thought it was going to go down quickly but stacking hard move after hard move again and again resulted in 5 sessions of sitting under this boulder!
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All-round American climber most notable to date for hard offwidth ascents. MacIlwaine is a journalist, currently [2026] the Associate Editor at Climbing and a former Yosemite Climber Steward.
All-round American climber most notable to date for hard offwidth ascents. MacIlwaine is a journalist, currently [2026] the Associate Editor at /Climbing/ and a former Yosemite Climber Steward.
All-round American climber most notable to date for hard offwidth ascents. MacIlwaine is a journalist, currently [2026] the Associate Editor at _Climbing_and a former Yosemite Climber Steward.
Nalle invested a huge amount of time and effort in to the problem before finally making the first ascent, spending 3 years and 4000+ attempts on the problem.
[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2016/10/nalle_hukkataival_puts_up_burden_of_dreams_-_font_9a-70761
[2] Send footy:
https://www.instagram.com/p/DNIgOzIs8zE/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jX2exjenOqE
[3] While working the problem Nalle posted about in a series of Instagram posts:
[4] The Lappnor Project (2017 film)
100+ sessions over 6 years. Giuliano worked out some new beta using some tiny crimps under the roof, he got close with this method but ultimately went back to a sequence that was pretty similar to the normal method.
Giuliano moved the wagon making the sit start in to a stand (thought at no change in grade).
The third route to be free climbed on El Capitan after Salathé Wall and The Nose.
The first ascent by Alexander and Thomas Huber followed meticulous preparation, with every hold ticked and every gear placement labelled. Just a few days after the first ascent, British teenagers Leo Houlding and Patch Hammond made an extraordinary almost-onsight ascent of the route for their first big wall.
The route incorporates parts of Continental Drift (a mixed free and aid route) then largely follows the North America Wall climbed free in its upper half. Until discovery of the Pineapple Express Variation all ascents used a short pendulum to overcome a 10m blank section.
[1] https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199901800