Climbing History

Johnny Dawes is a very influential climber in the British climbing scene, with many of his routesfrom the 1980s helping to define the era. Alongside contemporaries such as Jerry Moffatt and Ben Moon he helped take over the mantel from the likes of Ron Fawcett and pushed the standards in trad climbing to new levels, culminating in his ascent of Indian Face on Clogwyn Du'r Arddu (Cloggy).

Whilst Johnny's trad climbing was cutting edge he did not embrace sport climbing in the way that many did in the early 90s, though he did still climb up to 8b+, a very respectable level for the time.

Jon Barton: Do you think you ever shocked anybody Johnny?

Well I'd been at this mad party over in Wales. I left in the early hours to drive over to Sheffield, I like driving at night when the roads are quiet. I could tell you about the Snake Pass first thing at dawn, but that's boring hippy stuff. I got to Sheffield, and broke into the back of Al Rouse's house. I was in the kitchen making coffee, admiring Al's new decorating efforts, I went up stairs and jumped into his room and onto the bed, to be faced by two worried looking strangers hiding under the duvet. Al had moved out some weeks earlier.

JB: No Johnny, did you ever shock anybody with your climbing?

References

[1] Interview with Niall Grimes and Nick Dixon https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5gfAxYENlmU

[2] Features in 80's Birth of Extreme

[3] Interview for the film Stone Monkey, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QdeaV_vfp5Q

[4] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D88mEgfHJ-I

[5] Interview with Jon Barton, On The Edge 63 (1996) /library/11066/on-the-edge-63

[6] What Climbing Has Taught Me (2025) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5L_uSJH7-30