A selected history of climbing and mountaineering through the climbers, climbs and media.
Arnaud Petit climbed the pitch to a half height anchor in 1996 at a grade of 8c+. The full pitch was given the name Biographie but was later renamed Realization by the first ascenionist Chris Sharma. In line with French custom of routes being named by their equipper, it is now known as Biographie.
The route became famous as one of Chris Sharma's first big new routes and one of the earliest routes given 9a+, though notably not the first (several routes previously given 9a have subsequently been upgraded). His extended efforts on the route were documented in the film Dosage Volume 1.
At one point Chris wanted to call it Get a Life, thankfully he changed his mind! [3]
[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suVH2BuFEh0
[3] https://open.spotify.com/episode/14eXBiZUrV7LetCF132iNS?
Arnaud Petit climbed the pitch to a half height anchor in 1996 at a grade of 8c+. The full pitch was given the name Biographie but was later renamed Realization by the first ascenionist Chris Sharma. In line with French custom of routes being named by their equipper, it is now known as Biographie.
The route became famous as one of Chris Sharma's first big new routes and one of the earliest routes given 9a+, though notably not the first (several routes previously given 9a have subsequently been upgraded). His extended efforts on the route were documented in the film Dosage Volume 1.
At one point Chris wanted to call it Get a Life, thankfully he changed his mind! [3]
[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suVH2BuFEh0
[3] https://open.spotify.com/episode/14eXBiZUrV7LetCF132iNS?
Featuring 9024 pictures and videos. Try searching for a climber, climb or summit to see pics and videos.
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[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/DT-zNfBibXI/
[2] https://www.climbing.com/news/how-sean-bailey-sent-duality-of-man-and-why-he-kept-quiet/
[3] Discussion with Alex Honnold on Climbing Gold https://open.spotify.com/episode/2jVBxaXUZcGLPOytwu6uPt
Alpinist and Bleausard. At times controversial and somewhat mysterious, in 1965 Trivellini created the bold Black Circuit (ED-) at Bas Cuvier [1]. He disappeared in March 1967 during an attempt at a direct winter solo on the Eiger North Face.
His body was never found. Two years earlier, solo, he is said to have completed the first ascent of the Linceul [The Shroud] with a direct finish to the summit of the Grandes Jorasses via the left side of the Walker Spur (3–4–5–6 July 1965). This extraordinary feat was questioned and never officially recognised. Francis Bocianowski, of the R.S.C.M. (Red Star Club Montreuillois), a friend of Trivellini, saw no reason to doubt it and compiled a dossier on the matter. A journalist of Polish origin, Piotr Packowski, has more recently argued Trivellini’s case with the support of Claude Deck, former president of the G.H.M., in the journal of the F.F.C.A.M. (formerly the Club Alpin Français). Two false rumours long circulated about Trivellini: that he was deeply in debt, and that he had fled to Argentina for that reason. The mystery remains, with his body never recovered despite searches. [2]
[2] Fontainebleau: 100 ans d'escalade, Gilles Modica, Jacky Godoffe, Editions Mont Blanc, 2017, p.227. Translation by Chat GPT.