Climbing History

A selected history of climbing and mountaineering through the climbers, climbs and media.


4032 Climbers

7826 Climbs

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Requiem | E8 Trad climb at Dumbarton Rock

© Nadir Khan | Source

A groundbreaking route, taking on the impressive central crack line up the centre of Dumbarton Rock.

Originally graded E7 when first climbed by Dave 'Cubby' Cuthbertson in 1983, it was upgraded to E8 by Dave MacLeod in 2000.

The route features traditionally protected 8a/+ climbing, making it not just the first E8 in the UK, but the first 8a or harder too. The route was established mostly ground-up, with Cubby just having a peek at the final moves from a top rope after an epic siege.

The route seems to have been consistently cited as having 8a+ climbing until the mid 2010s. Cubby's thoughts on the grade:

Well, I never gave it 8a+… I think sometimes the grades get a little bit inflated on traditionally protected routes, personally speaking. I'm still of that opinion... So, I've done Statement of Youth (8a) on Lower Pen Trwyn. It's actually quite a solid route, really. So, it's a very hard route to compare, to begin with. Requiem is obviously not a sport route, and it wasn't done in sport style either. So, it's got a slightly confused style of ascent, really. So, it's certainly no less than 8a, I wouldn't think, whether it's 8a or 8a+ or not, I guess it's neither here nor there. [1]

References

[1] https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000581932346

© Nadir Khan | Source

A groundbreaking route, taking on the impressive central crack line up the centre of Dumbarton Rock.

Originally graded E7 when first climbed by Dave 'Cubby' Cuthbertson in 1983, it was upgraded to E8 by Dave MacLeod in 2000.

The route features traditionally protected 8a/+ climbing, making it not just the first E8 in the UK, but the first 8a or harder too. The route was established mostly ground-up, with Cubby just having a peek at the final moves from a top rope after an epic siege.

The route seems to have been consistently cited as having 8a+ climbing until the mid 2010s. Cubby's thoughts on the grade:

Well, I never gave it 8a+… I think sometimes the grades get a little bit inflated on traditionally protected routes, personally speaking. I'm still of that opinion... So, I've done Statement of Youth (8a) on Lower Pen Trwyn. It's actually quite a solid route, really. So, it's a very hard route to compare, to begin with. Requiem is obviously not a sport route, and it wasn't done in sport style either. So, it's got a slightly confused style of ascent, really. So, it's certainly no less than 8a, I wouldn't think, whether it's 8a or 8a+ or not, I guess it's neither here nor there. [1]

References

[1] https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000581932346

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