Climbing History
A selected history of climbing and mountaineering through the climbers, climbs and media.
3532 Climbers
6974 Climbs
18079 Ascents
Featured
Joe Brown
Born in 1930, Joe Brown was one of the pivotal figures in post-war climbing in the UK. In the 1950s and 60s, and alongside contemporaries such as Don Whillans, he pushed the standard of rock climbing in the UK to new levels with the first ascents of classic routes such as Cemetry Gates (E1), Great Slab (E3) and Right Eliminate (E3). Joe's routes frequently ventured in to territory that was previously considered off limits, often tackling bold and uncompromising features with minimal protection.
It is sometimes suggested that he was one of the inventors of jamming. Though this seems unlikely it is certainly true that he employed the technique to great effect on many of his new routes.
With all the other greats of my time, I could understand how they climbed: fitness, physique, supple gymnasticism or sheer application. With Brown, there was something else at work. He was quite short, not heavily built, his muscles corded rather than developed, his movement smooth and deliberate. When I climbed with him, sometimes I would watch the way he made a move, copy it when I came to that point, and his way, that he had seen instantly, would be the least obvious and most immediately right. He was climbing's supreme craftsman, unerringly aware of the medium. [3]
References
[1] An extended biography written by Ollie Burrows is available here https://www.theclimbersshopjoebrownblog.co.uk/blog/joe-brown-biography including a list of many of Joe's first ascents.
Born in 1930, Joe Brown was one of the pivotal figures in post-war climbing in the UK. In the 1950s and 60s, and alongside contemporaries such as Don Whillans, he pushed the standard of rock climbing in the UK to new levels with the first ascents of classic routes such as Cemetry Gates (E1), Great Slab (E3) and Right Eliminate (E3). Joe's routes frequently ventured in to territory that was previously considered off limits, often tackling bold and uncompromising features with minimal protection.
It is sometimes suggested that he was one of the inventors of jamming. Though this seems unlikely it is certainly true that he employed the technique to great effect on many of his new routes.
With all the other greats of my time, I could understand how they climbed: fitness, physique, supple gymnasticism or sheer application. With Brown, there was something else at work. He was quite short, not heavily built, his muscles corded rather than developed, his movement smooth and deliberate. When I climbed with him, sometimes I would watch the way he made a move, copy it when I came to that point, and his way, that he had seen instantly, would be the least obvious and most immediately right. He was climbing's supreme craftsman, unerringly aware of the medium. [3]
References
[1] An extended biography written by Ollie Burrows is available here https://www.theclimbersshopjoebrownblog.co.uk/blog/joe-brown-biography including a list of many of Joe's first ascents.
Pics + Vids
Featuring 8742 pictures and videos. Try searching for a climber, climb or summit to see pics and videos.
Dylan Parks on A1 (8B+)
Support
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You may also be interested in the Mountain Heritage Trust, a charity dedicated to preserving the rich history of climbing and mountaineering. Their collection includes many unique and valuable items, from rare guidebooks through to the boots worn by Doug Scott on the 1977 Ogre expedition.
Explore
Fancy a look around? You can browse by climber or by climbs, or you can check out some lists. For example
- All sport ascents of 9b or above
- British women who have climbed 7C or above
- British men who have climbed 8c or above
Podcasts
Featuring 3924 podcasts. Try searching for a climber to see podcasts with them, or check out some of these podcasts:
- James Pearson on Jam Crack Podcast, August 2024
- Matt Samet on Ageless Athlete, July 2024
- Tyler Nelson on Sends and Suffers, September 2021
- Cesare Maestri on Climbing Gold, October 2023
Library
Featuring 11021 items in the library. Try a search to see what you can find, or check out these library items:
- Everest - The Hard Way (1975) Film
- Alpine Journal 1986 192-197 Russell 100YrsAgo (1986) Journal
- Leicestershire Climbs (1993) Guidebook
Recent updates
References
Sleepwalker is a boulder problem in Red Rocks in the USA. Nalle Hukkataival first cleaned and tried the line, and was then joined by Jimmy Webb and Daniel Woods in trying it. Jimmy Webb made the first ascent, shortly followed by Daniel Woods. After a prolonged battle with skin and conditions Nalle was able to make the third ascent.
It has become one of the most popular hard boulders in the world, in part due to relatively reliable conditions and ease of access, with 15 ascents at the time of writing.
I was at Wet Dream and Dave Graham was there, and he was walking around trying some stuff and I'd walked by Sleepwalker hundreds of times. He walks by, he looks at it a bit, some chalk real quick...e looks at it and he's like "This is the next 8C in America."...It's great that it came to fruition in a big way. [1]
Originally put up at 8C+, opinion is now moving closer to 8C. There is some speculation that holds, particularly the slot, may have improved over time due to erosion of the rock.
References
Sleepwalker is a boulder problem in Red Rocks in the USA. Nalle Hukkataival first cleaned and tried the line, and was then joined by Jimmy Webb and Daniel Woods in trying it. Jimmy Webb made the first ascent, shortly followed by Daniel Woods. After a prolonged battle with skin and conditions Nalle was able to make the third ascent.
It has become one of the most popular hard boulders in the world, in part due to relatively reliable conditions and ease of access, with 15 ascents at the time of writing.
I was at Wet Dream and Dave Graham was there, and he was walking around trying some stuff and I'd walked by Sleepwalker hundreds of times. He walks by, he looks at it a bit, some chalk real quick...e looks at it and he's like "This is the next 8C in America."...It's great that it came to fruition in a big way. [1]
Originally put up at 8C+, but consensus since 2024 has been around hard 8C. There is some speculation as to how holds may have gotten better overtime on this notoriously soft sandstone.