A selected history of climbing and mountaineering through the climbers, climbs and media.
A pioneer of hard bouldering in Fontainebleau, throughout the 1980s and '90s Godoffe established dozens of the forest's classic modern testpieces.
His ascent of C'Était Demain (8A) in 1984 set a new level for bouldering in Europe. Coming just a year after L'Abbé Résina (7C), the climb was a significant step up in difficulty. With its difficulty concentrated into just a couple of hard moves, it is still regarded as a hard 8A and may have only been flashed once (Dave Graham, 2000).
In 1993 he raised the bar again, establishing Fatman, a contender for the first 8B in the forest. His relentless pursuit of both quality and difficulty saw him projecting what would later become The Big Island (8C), though a successful ascent eluded him.
In the early '00s Godoffe pioneered the art of indoor routesetting. His books on the subject are essential reading for those in the trade.
Success in climbing is just the tip of the iceberg. The most important thing for me is how to deal with such an important passion and also the rest of life. I am lucky to have had 5 children, and none of them never ever climbed, so at home at least I'm just a human trying to surf on the waves of life. This is a way harder than the most difficult boulder I ever climbed. [1]
[1] Interview in The Project Magazine (2017) https://www.theprojectmagazine.com/features/2017/5/13/jacky-godoffe-interview
[2] Bleau https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HIreNKro7QU
[3] https://escaladepanorama.htm-fr.com/francais/bleau/itw/bl_jg-interview.htm
A pioneer of hard bouldering in Fontainebleau, throughout the 1980s and '90s Godoffe established dozens of the forest's classic modern testpieces.
His ascent of C'Était Demain (8A) in 1984 set a new level for bouldering in Europe. Coming just a year after L'Abbé Résina (7C), the climb was a significant step up in difficulty. With its difficulty concentrated into just a couple of hard moves, it is still regarded as a hard 8A and may have only been flashed once (Dave Graham, 2000).
In 1993 he raised the bar again, establishing Fatman, a contender for the first 8B in the forest. His relentless pursuit of both quality and difficulty saw him projecting what would later become The Big Island (8C), though a successful ascent eluded him.
In the early '00s Godoffe pioneered the art of indoor routesetting. His books on the subject are essential reading for those in the trade.
Success in climbing is just the tip of the iceberg. The most important thing for me is how to deal with such an important passion and also the rest of life. I am lucky to have had 5 children, and none of them never ever climbed, so at home at least I'm just a human trying to surf on the waves of life. This is a way harder than the most difficult boulder I ever climbed. [1]
[1] Interview in The Project Magazine (2017) https://www.theprojectmagazine.com/features/2017/5/13/jacky-godoffe-interview
[2] Bleau https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HIreNKro7QU
[3] https://escaladepanorama.htm-fr.com/francais/bleau/itw/bl_jg-interview.htm
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