Climbing History

A selected history of climbing and mountaineering through the climbers, climbs and media.


4208 Climbers

8134 Climbs

21666 Ascents


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Divided Years | E9 Trad climb at Buzzard's Roost

One of the most compelling single pitch lines out there, Divided Years tackles a 55m prow at Buzzard's Roost in the Mournes. It was the first route to be given E10 in the world in 1994, and was said to feature 8c climbing. It now rates E9, with climbing around 8a+.

James McHaffie and Ryan Pasquill made ground-up ascents with minimal beta and prep in 2015. Robbie Phillips made a well-prepared flash of the route in 2026.

Jack Geldard, UKC:

The route is one of the most inspirational lines in the UK, tackling a huge overhanging bastion of rock in a beautiful and remote setting.

Dave MacLeod describes it as: "This is one of the best single pitch routes I've ever seen or done"

The sport grade would weigh in at around F8a+ (possibly F8b) and the route is known to be well protected. Both John Dunne and Dave Birkett are thought to have had a few pre-placed runners on the most difficult section, whereas Dave MacLeod and Ricky Bell placed all gear on lead. Ricky took some 30ft falls on to hand-placed bird beak runners during his ascent.

One of the most compelling single pitch lines out there, Divided Years tackles a 55m prow at Buzzard's Roost in the Mournes. It was the first route to be given E10 in the world in 1994, and was said to feature 8c climbing. It now rates E9, with climbing around 8a+.

James McHaffie and Ryan Pasquill made ground-up ascents with minimal beta and prep in 2015. Robbie Phillips made a well-prepared flash of the route in 2026.

Jack Geldard, UKC:

The route is one of the most inspirational lines in the UK, tackling a huge overhanging bastion of rock in a beautiful and remote setting.

Dave MacLeod describes it as: "This is one of the best single pitch routes I've ever seen or done"

The sport grade would weigh in at around F8a+ (possibly F8b) and the route is known to be well protected. Both John Dunne and Dave Birkett are thought to have had a few pre-placed runners on the most difficult section, whereas Dave MacLeod and Ricky Bell placed all gear on lead. Ricky took some 30ft falls on to hand-placed bird beak runners during his ascent.

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Age 10 years and 9 months, making her the youngest British woman to climb 8a at the time of her ascent.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/Dc9RLUJvvAJ/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T76qSOK0yPw

Media

Zac Orme was one of New Zealand’s top youth competition climbers before transitioning his focus outdoors to high-end sport routes and bouldering. A key figure in the Basin scene, establishing several of Flock Hill's standout highballs including Liquidus Line and The Horsemen of the Apocalypse. In a feature for The Climber, Orme famously described his process, noting that he sees "every project as a monster he has to slay."[1]

References

[1] The Climber NZAC, Issue 99 Page 33