Climbing History

A selected history of climbing and mountaineering through the climbers, climbs and media.


4232 Climbers

8183 Climbs

21844 Ascents


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John Arran

John Arran is a very accomplished trad climber with adventurous first ascents across the UK, North and South America and beyond, often climbed onsight. Spending 3 years in the US in the 80s, John onsight soloed multipitch routes up to 5.12, a level that has not been surpassed today. In the late 90s he dabbled in gritstone headpointing, climbing The Zone and the unrepeated Doctor Dolittle E10.

On 20th June 2003 John and his partner for the day Shane Ohly soloed or descended 536 routes in a mammoth single day. [1] Following in the footsteps of Ron Fawcett's Arran climbed 100 extremes in a day in 2001, all at Stanage with 55 of them onsight. [2,3]

John helped pioneer big wall free climbing in Venezuela, culminating in Rainbow Jambaia (E7) on Angel Falls, one the most spectacular hard big walls in the world.

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 130, page 11

[2] On The Edge Issue 113, page 32

[3] http://www.thefreeclimber.com/johnHistory.htm

[4] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GgHRLSBiGvo

John Arran is a very accomplished trad climber with adventurous first ascents across the UK, North and South America and beyond, often climbed onsight. Spending 3 years in the US in the 80s, John onsight soloed multipitch routes up to 5.12, a level that has not been surpassed today. In the late 90s he dabbled in gritstone headpointing, climbing The Zone and the unrepeated Doctor Dolittle E10.

On 20th June 2003 John and his partner for the day Shane Ohly soloed or descended 536 routes in a mammoth single day. [1] Following in the footsteps of Ron Fawcett's Arran climbed 100 extremes in a day in 2001, all at Stanage with 55 of them onsight. [2,3]

John helped pioneer big wall free climbing in Venezuela, culminating in Rainbow Jambaia (E7) on Angel Falls, one the most spectacular hard big walls in the world.

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 130, page 11

[2] On The Edge Issue 113, page 32

[3] http://www.thefreeclimber.com/johnHistory.htm

[4] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GgHRLSBiGvo

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Library

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Recent updates

Bernardo Rivadossi:

Higher up, where you had to place a bit more of your own gear, I had some doubts about whether Adam had much experience with that. But he came up with a very clever way of getting around his lack of experience. He simply didn't place any cams and climbed from bolt to bolt, or from a bolt to a piton, sometimes with twenty meter runouts [laughs]. [1, translated]

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mpnS6VqrnLg&t=834s

Bernardo Rivadossi:

Higher up, where you had to place a bit more of your own gear, I had some doubts about whether Adam had much experience with that. But he came up with a very clever way of getting around his lack of experience. He simply didn't place any cams and climbed from bolt to bolt, or from a bolt to a piton, sometimes with twenty meter runouts. [1, translated]

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mpnS6VqrnLg&t=834s

Media

A leftward extension of Olympiad (8b).

Put up as the hardest DWS route in the UK.

A leftward extension of Olympiad (8b).

Put up as the hardest DWS in the UK.

Kazuma Ise's ascent of Decided
Media
Kazuma Ise's ascent of Agartha
Kazuma Ise's ascent of Minerva
Media
Kazuma Ise's ascent of Minerva