James Pearson


Quick Info

Nationality: GB
Date of birth: 15th December 1985
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8C
Hardest Boulder (Flash): 8B
Hardest Sport (Worked): 9a
Hardest Trad (Worked): E12
Hardest Trad (Onsight): E8
Hardest Trad (Flash): E9
Notable Partnerships
Caroline Ciavaldini
Social Media

James pearson is an all round climber from the peak district in the UK.

Growing up, James established himself with fast repeats of many hard and scary gritstone routes such as Equilibrium, at the time one of the hardest gritstone routes around, as well as putting up hard routes of his own such as The Promise at Burbage North.

As well as climbing hard trad James also repeated many hard boulder problems. Most notably in 2007 he flashed three problems in the 8A+/B range Ganymede Takeover, The Great Shark Hunt and Schule des Lebens. At the time each of these was considered 8B which would make these ascents some of the hardest flashes in the world at the time though these problems have subsequently been downgraded.

In 2008 James courted controversy when he established The Walk of Life at Dyers Lookout and gave it the unprecedented grade of E12, suggesting it was harder than any other route in the UK at the time. The route is now considered E9, and on reflection James has admitted the route was not in his style which is why it felt as hard as it did for him.

After the controversy around The Walk of Life James moved to Europe and spent a lot of time becoming a more well rounded climber. Around the same time he met his now-wife Caroline Ciavaldini. Putting his training to good use James has now repeated and established a slew of hard sport and trad routes around the world. Notable ascents include many hard onsight and flashes in Pembroke in South Wales, a repeat of Dave MacLeod's Rhapsody at Dumbarton Rock, Jacopo Larcher's Tribe and the first ascent of Le Voyage.

References

[1] Interview with Tom Randall

[2] Interview with PlanetMountain, 2008 https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/james-pearson-climbing-interview.html

Contributors: remus, LeodF

Quick Info

Nationality: GB
Date of birth: 15th December 1985
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8C
Hardest Boulder (Flash): 8B
Hardest Sport (Worked): 9a
Hardest Trad (Worked): E12
Hardest Trad (Onsight): E8
Hardest Trad (Flash): E9
Notable Partnerships
Caroline Ciavaldini
Social Media

James pearson is an all round climber from the peak district in the UK.

Growing up, James established himself with fast repeats of many hard and scary gritstone routes such as Equilibrium, at the time one of the hardest gritstone routes around, as well as putting up hard routes of his own such as The Promise at Burbage North.

As well as climbing hard trad James also repeated many hard boulder problems. Most notably in 2007 he flashed three problems in the 8A+/B range Ganymede Takeover, The Great Shark Hunt and Schule des Lebens. At the time each of these was considered 8B which would make these ascents some of the hardest flashes in the world at the time though these problems have subsequently been downgraded.

In 2008 James courted controversy when he established The Walk of Life at Dyers Lookout and gave it the unprecedented grade of E12, suggesting it was harder than any other route in the UK at the time. The route is now considered E9, and on reflection James has admitted the route was not in his style which is why it felt as hard as it did for him.

After the controversy around The Walk of Life James moved to Europe and spent a lot of time becoming a more well rounded climber. Around the same time he met his now-wife Caroline Ciavaldini. Putting his training to good use James has now repeated and established a slew of hard sport and trad routes around the world. Notable ascents include many hard onsight and flashes in Pembroke in South Wales, a repeat of Dave MacLeod's Rhapsody at Dumbarton Rock, Jacopo Larcher's Tribe and the first ascent of Le Voyage.

References

[1] Interview with Tom Randall

[2] Interview with PlanetMountain, 2008 https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/james-pearson-climbing-interview.html

Contributors: remus, LeodF

Lists


Podcasts


Pics + Vids

Added at 16:01 on 13 January 2021
Harder Faster (E9)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 12:02 on 10 February 2021
Keen Roof (8A+, FA)
Added at 13:01 on 24 January 2021
Parthian Shot (E10)
Added at 11:09 on 01 September 2023
Trauma (E9)
Added at 09:10 on 26 October 2023
Bronx (8c+)
Added at 13:10 on 27 October 2023
Couilles de Mammouth (E9)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 18:12 on 04 December 2023
Bon Voyage (E12, FA)
Added at 14:12 on 06 December 2023
The Promise (E8, FA)
Added at 12:12 on 08 December 2023
Parthian Shot (E10)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 07:08 on 28 August 2023
Point Blank (E8)
Added at 07:12 on 18 December 2023
Dusk Till Dawn (E8)
Added at 07:12 on 18 December 2023
Devon Sent (7C+)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 18:01 on 15 January 2024
Immortal (E11)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 22:01 on 21 January 2024
Immortal (E11)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 18:01 on 22 January 2024
Immortal (E11)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 17:01 on 23 January 2024
The Zone (E9)
Added at 22:02 on 22 February 2021
Juneru (8C)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 15:01 on 08 January 2024
Infamous (8B)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 18:01 on 15 January 2024
Rocket Science (8B+)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 18:01 on 15 January 2024
Knockin' on Heaven's Door (E9)
Added at 23:02 on 23 February 2024
The Walk of Life (E9, FA)
Added at 22:12 on 27 December 2020
Gerty Berwick (E9)
Added at 22:12 on 27 December 2020
Airdrawn Dagger (E8)
Added at 10:01 on 09 January 2021
The Groove (E9, FA)
Added at 10:01 on 14 January 2021
The Zone (E9)
Added at 10:01 on 18 January 2021
Knockin' on Heaven's Door (E9)
Added at 10:01 on 18 January 2021
Equilibrium (E10)
Added at 10:01 on 18 January 2021
Is Not Always Pasqua? (E9)
Added at 10:01 on 19 January 2021
Rhapsody (E11)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 12:02 on 10 February 2021
Condé de Choc (9a)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 12:02 on 10 February 2021
Le Voyage (E10, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 12:02 on 10 February 2021
Le blond, la brute et le manouche (8c+, FA)
Added at 15:02 on 22 February 2021
Bon Voyage (E12, FA)
Added at 08:02 on 20 February 2023
The Ace (8B)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 09:12 on 22 December 2021
Bon Voyage (E12, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 18:02 on 09 February 2023
Return of the Jedi (E8, FA)
Added at 06:07 on 05 July 2021
Harder Faster (E9)
Added at 18:12 on 02 December 2021
Power Ranger (E11, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 07:12 on 07 December 2021
Ça Chauffe (9a)
Added at 20:10 on 01 October 2021
The Ace (8B)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 22:12 on 23 December 2021
Harder Faster (E9)
Added at 08:01 on 10 January 2022
Monoblock (8A)
Added at 21:01 on 24 January 2022
Juneru (8C)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 20:03 on 01 March 2022
Equilibrium (E10)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 05:07 on 14 July 2022
Off the Wagon (8B+)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 06:03 on 21 March 2023
Inuit (8b+)
Added at 17:01 on 20 January 2023
Something's Burning (E9)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 22:12 on 07 December 2022
Le Voyage (E10, FA)
Added at 08:08 on 15 August 2022
Tribe (E11)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 05:10 on 04 October 2022

Ascents

68 recorded ascents.

This timeline is missing some ascents where the date of the ascent is unknown. Use the other tabs to view these ascents.
Year Climb Grade Style Ascent Date
2003 Knockin' on Heaven's Door E9 Lead | worked 2003
The Zone E9 Lead | worked 9th Nov 2003
2004 The Power of the Dark Side E7 Lead | worked 27th Dec 2004
2005 Equilibrium E10 Lead | worked 7th Mar 2005
2006 Keen Roof 8A+ Boulder | worked 5th Sep 2006
2007 Ganymede Takeover 8A+ Boulder | flash 16th Feb 2007

At the time the problem was considered to be 8B which would have made this one of the first ever flashes of an 8B boulder problem.

https://www.8a.nu/news/8b-flash-by-james-pearson

The Promise E8 Lead | worked Mar 2007
First ascent.

Climbed with a single slider for protection and no pads.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pbNm_qB016c

Trauma E9 Lead | worked Apr 2007
The Great Shark Hunt 8B Boulder | flash 5th Apr 2007
Schule des Lebens 8A+ Boulder | flash 25th Nov 2007

Schule des Lebens is a short, crimpy 8b on the Deliverance boulder. Due to the basic nature of the holds and most of the moves I decided that it might be possible to flash. I watched some friends trying the moves and planned out a potential sequence. The first move definitely looked like the hardest and I was incredibly nervous about pulling on knowing that the following seconds could mean success or failure. The starting holds felt really small and the necessary body position didn't appear obvious. I focused on what I thought would work, making sure that my feet were placed precisely before firing upwards for the edge. I stuck it and tightened up my core so I could move my feet. The next few moves went well and after a little bit of a fight with the last two moves I had made it to the top. My third 8b flash, fantastic.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2007/12/james_pearson_third_font_8b_flash-41442

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/letter_from_james_pearson_two_week_trip_to_ticino_in_switzerlan-676

Trice 8A+ Boulder | worked 13th Dec 2007
2008 The Groove E9 Lead | worked 2008
Off the Wagon 8B+ Boulder | did not finish 2008

James came very close to making the first ascent, dropping the last move with his hand on the jug.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CqBOSgaorpc/

The Walk of Life E9 Lead | worked 29th Sep 2008
End of the Affair E8 Lead | onsight 28th Nov 2008
2009 Gerty Berwick E9 Lead | worked Feb 2009
2010 Return of the Jedi E8 Lead | worked 24th Dec 2010
2011 Muy Caliente! E9 Lead | ground up 2011
Second go.

James came very close to flashing the route, dropping the easier moves after the crux.

References

[1] https://jamespearsonclimbing.blogspot.com/2011/05/muy-caliente-e10-flash-so-close.html

Airdrawn Dagger E8 Lead | onsight 2011
Point Blank E8 Lead | onsight 2011
Le blond, la brute et le manouche 8c+ Lead | worked 2011
Quello Che Non c’è 8c+ Lead | worked 2011
Lover 2.1 8c+ Lead | worked 15th Mar 2011
Daddy Cool E8 Lead | flash Apr 2011
Dusk Till Dawn E8 Lead | flash Apr 2011
From a Distance E7 Lead | onsight Apr 2011
2012 Strawberries E7 Lead | ground up 2012
Excalibur 8c+ Lead | worked 2012
Mind Control 8c Lead | worked Mar 2012
Esclatamàsters 9a Lead | worked 14th Mar 2012

James' first of the grade.

2013 Hydrophobie 8c+ Lead | worked 2013
A Denti Stretti E10 Lead | worked May 2013
Is Not Always Pasqua? E9 Lead | ground up Dec 2013
2014 Reverrence 8c+ Lead | worked 2014
Deverse Royale 8c+ Lead | worked 2014
Something's Burning E9 Lead | flash Sep 2014

And yesterday, Something's Burning Flash for James. Ok, that was a very precise flash, I showed him every beta, every gear. I wouldn't have let him try the route without preparation otherwise, as the gear is super precise, and not wonderfull at all. Anyway, He didn't fall, flashing is first E9 ever!!!! Thanks Charlie for having had the vision for such a great route!

Caroline Ciavaldini

James Pearson's ascent of Something's Burning E9 surely represents the next level in trad climbing. Having been on this route, I'm just blown away that anyone could possess the strength, skill and nerve to flash it. Truly landmark.

Neil Gresham

It's a very very impressive ascent. But I've gotta say that with font 8b strength I'm not really that surprised. Bold trad climbing has been crying out for someone to combine that level of strength with savvy tactics and serious ambition for a long time. I think its awesome that James has actually stepped up to do the honours. Respect.

Charlie Woodburn

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2014/09/james_pearson_flashes_pembroke_e9-69151

https://www.instagram.com/reel/Cl3_AgMo-RW/

Rhapsody E11 Lead | worked 24th Sep 2014
2015 Bonanno Pisano E9 Lead | worked 2015
First ascent.
Bronx 8c+ Lead | worked 2015
2016
2017 Power Ranger E11 Lead | worked 2017
Le Voyage E10 Lead | worked 2017
2018
2019
2020 Ba-Boom 8B+ Boulder | worked 2020
First ascent.
Master and Cifuentes 8B+ Boulder | worked 2020
Mr Tom 8B Boulder | worked 2020
I Shot Sarkonasy SDS 8B Boulder | worked 2020
Queen of Heart 8B Boulder | worked 2020
La Ligne Claire 8c+ Lead | worked 2020
Les Mollahs du Mur 8c+ Lead | worked 2020
Condé de Choc 9a Lead | worked 29th Jul 2020
Tribe E11 Lead | worked Oct 2020
Harder Faster E9 Lead | worked 24th Dec 2020
Fourth ascent.

Harder Faster always represented the epitome of what a hard grit route is. The climbing isn't too bad, but it's hard enough that you never feel in control and especially the style of the climbing, just being on those open slopers at the top. If something goes wrong you can't just pull harder to get out of the situation, you just hope it doesn't go wrong! [4]

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2020/12/hard_grit_repeats_by_james_pearson_and_caroline_ciavaldini-72675

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/CJVkwj-FiUr/

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gygJgiXGxOk

[4] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BYA6r86JALU

2021 Le Corridor Direct assis 8B Boulder | worked 2021
First ascent.
Ça Chauffe 9a Lead | worked 2021
The Ace 8B Boulder | worked 15th Dec 2021
2022 Juneru 8C Boulder | worked 1st Mar 2022
Lexicon E11 Lead | worked 11th Jun 2022

Prior to making the successful ascent James made a very impressive attempt after an abseil inspection, getting established on the headwall but taking the lob after getting tired from misreading the lower moves out of the break.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2022/06/james_pearson_climbs_lexicon_e11_7a-73070

2023 Bon Voyage E12 Lead | worked Between 1st Jan 2023 and 9th Feb 2023
First ascent.

I loved the process, unlocking the puzzle, & I also feel grateful to have found such a wonderful hard line. I've spent years searching for really hard trad routes & I know how rare they are. Rarer than hard sport lines because you need not only the holds, but also protection. And where there's gear, there are often big holds, making them easier. Bon Voyage feels like a miracle in that it has an 'only-just-there' improbable line of tiny bullet hard sandstone holds, with only just enough gear to make it safe and justifiable.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CocodAqofQ5/

[2] Interview on the Lattice Training Podcast https://open.spotify.com/episode/3rLiVqJKDnQbxY9fGeoGxK

[3] Careless Talk Climbing - Episode 75: https://open.spotify.com/episode/2HAuDaq2kSHM6L7vdDu6uu

[4] https://gripped.com/news/why-james-pearson-says-bon-voyage-is-e12/

Parthian Shot E10 Lead | worked Aug 2023

Notably James did not place a side runner in Brook's Crack and placed all the gear in the flake on lead. This is potentially the first ascent in this style since the flake broke. To facilitate this style, James started up the first few moves of Dynamics of Change so it would not be possible to place the runners in Brooks Crack. [2]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CwdIroBtUpX/=

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2023/08/james_pearson_climbs_parthian_shot_e10_6c-73439

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_jmQsLive7E

Prisoners of the Sun E10 Lead | worked Aug 2023
Olwen E9 Lead | ground up Between 15th Aug 2023 and 1st Sep 2023
Second go.

James gave the route a good flash go after watching Caroline Ciavaldini working the line, falling off the last hard move (though still with some tricky climbing to go).

I almost backed off from the middle of the lower (potentially dangerous) runout, but eventually made it through to the underthings and good gear that mark the beginning of the upper wall and crux of the route. I had a really good fight, using mostly Caroline’s beta, but having to freestyle a couple of moves that just didn’t quite fit me. I stuck the final hard move with a giant scream, but I was so boxed I fell trying to sort my feet out. It might technically be the last really hard move on the route, but the route is definitely not over at this point. There are still two moves to go before you get to the really good holds, and I think I would’ve surely fallen here, even if I had gotten my feet into position. Actually, on my next attempt, I was about as close as I could get to falling on these very moves. [1]

References

[1] https://www.climber.co.uk/news/james-pearson-repeats-prisoners-of-the-sun-e10-and-olwen-e9/

Couilles de Mammouth E9 (approx) Lead | worked Dec 2023
2024 Rocket Science 8B+ Boulder | worked 14th Jan 2024
Infamous 8B Boulder | worked 14th Jan 2024
Devon Sent 7C+ Boulder | worked 14th Jan 2024
Immortal E11 Lead | worked 19th Jan 2024
2 sessions.

Despite the difficult weather conditions, I had a wonderful day up there. The situation of Maidens Bluff, high up on the bank overlooking the North Sea is pretty spectacular, but what made the day really special was everybody rallying together and having a good time. As a teenager, I had a poster of Neil Gresham, climbing Equilibrium in my bedroom, and Steve McClure is, well, he is Steve McClure. It’s obviously pretty cool to get to climb with some of your childhood heroes, but more importantly than that just like Chris Hudgins, they are simply really great people. That makes all the difference on the day. [1]

James suggested it was easier than E11 without proposing a specific grade. [3]

References

[1] https://www.climber.co.uk/news/james-pearson-makes-second-ascent-of-immortal-north-york-moors/

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/C2XjOK-NPCS/

[3] https://www.instagram.com/p/C2abcTWtoJz/?img_index=1

[4] https://www.instagram.com/p/C2cvx-lNEqZ/

Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Esclatamàsters 9a Lead | worked 14th Mar 2012

James' first of the grade.

Condé de Choc 9a Lead | worked 29th Jul 2020
Ça Chauffe 9a Lead | worked 2021
Le blond, la brute et le manouche 8c+ Lead | worked 2011
Reverrence 8c+ Lead | worked 2014
Quello Che Non c’è 8c+ Lead | worked 2011
Lover 2.1 8c+ Lead | worked 15th Mar 2011
Excalibur 8c+ Lead | worked 2012
Hydrophobie 8c+ Lead | worked 2013
Deverse Royale 8c+ Lead | worked 2014
Bronx 8c+ Lead | worked 2015
La Ligne Claire 8c+ Lead | worked 2020
Les Mollahs du Mur 8c+ Lead | worked 2020
Mind Control 8c Lead | worked Mar 2012
Inuit 8b+ Lead | worked
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Juneru 8C Boulder | worked 1st Mar 2022
Ba-Boom 8B+ Boulder | worked 2020
First ascent.
Off the Wagon 8B+ Boulder | did not finish 2008

James came very close to making the first ascent, dropping the last move with his hand on the jug.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CqBOSgaorpc/

Master and Cifuentes 8B+ Boulder | worked 2020
Rocket Science 8B+ Boulder | worked 14th Jan 2024
Le Corridor Direct assis 8B Boulder | worked 2021
First ascent.
The Great Shark Hunt 8B Boulder | flash 5th Apr 2007
Mr Tom 8B Boulder | worked 2020
I Shot Sarkonasy SDS 8B Boulder | worked 2020
Queen of Heart 8B Boulder | worked 2020
The Ace 8B Boulder | worked 15th Dec 2021
Infamous 8B Boulder | worked 14th Jan 2024
Keen Roof 8A+ Boulder | worked 5th Sep 2006
Ganymede Takeover 8A+ Boulder | flash 16th Feb 2007

At the time the problem was considered to be 8B which would have made this one of the first ever flashes of an 8B boulder problem.

https://www.8a.nu/news/8b-flash-by-james-pearson

Schule des Lebens 8A+ Boulder | flash 25th Nov 2007

Schule des Lebens is a short, crimpy 8b on the Deliverance boulder. Due to the basic nature of the holds and most of the moves I decided that it might be possible to flash. I watched some friends trying the moves and planned out a potential sequence. The first move definitely looked like the hardest and I was incredibly nervous about pulling on knowing that the following seconds could mean success or failure. The starting holds felt really small and the necessary body position didn't appear obvious. I focused on what I thought would work, making sure that my feet were placed precisely before firing upwards for the edge. I stuck it and tightened up my core so I could move my feet. The next few moves went well and after a little bit of a fight with the last two moves I had made it to the top. My third 8b flash, fantastic.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2007/12/james_pearson_third_font_8b_flash-41442

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/letter_from_james_pearson_two_week_trip_to_ticino_in_switzerlan-676

Trice 8A+ Boulder | worked 13th Dec 2007
Monoblock 8A Boulder | worked
Devon Sent 7C+ Boulder | worked 14th Jan 2024
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Bon Voyage E12 Lead | worked Between 1st Jan 2023 and 9th Feb 2023 E12
First ascent.

I loved the process, unlocking the puzzle, & I also feel grateful to have found such a wonderful hard line. I've spent years searching for really hard trad routes & I know how rare they are. Rarer than hard sport lines because you need not only the holds, but also protection. And where there's gear, there are often big holds, making them easier. Bon Voyage feels like a miracle in that it has an 'only-just-there' improbable line of tiny bullet hard sandstone holds, with only just enough gear to make it safe and justifiable.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CocodAqofQ5/

[2] Interview on the Lattice Training Podcast https://open.spotify.com/episode/3rLiVqJKDnQbxY9fGeoGxK

[3] Careless Talk Climbing - Episode 75: https://open.spotify.com/episode/2HAuDaq2kSHM6L7vdDu6uu

[4] https://gripped.com/news/why-james-pearson-says-bon-voyage-is-e12/

Power Ranger E11 Lead | worked 2017
Rhapsody E11 Lead | worked 24th Sep 2014
Tribe E11 Lead | worked Oct 2020
Lexicon E11 Lead | worked 11th Jun 2022

Prior to making the successful ascent James made a very impressive attempt after an abseil inspection, getting established on the headwall but taking the lob after getting tired from misreading the lower moves out of the break.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2022/06/james_pearson_climbs_lexicon_e11_7a-73070

Immortal E11 Lead | worked 19th Jan 2024
2 sessions.

Despite the difficult weather conditions, I had a wonderful day up there. The situation of Maidens Bluff, high up on the bank overlooking the North Sea is pretty spectacular, but what made the day really special was everybody rallying together and having a good time. As a teenager, I had a poster of Neil Gresham, climbing Equilibrium in my bedroom, and Steve McClure is, well, he is Steve McClure. It’s obviously pretty cool to get to climb with some of your childhood heroes, but more importantly than that just like Chris Hudgins, they are simply really great people. That makes all the difference on the day. [1]

James suggested it was easier than E11 without proposing a specific grade. [3]

References

[1] https://www.climber.co.uk/news/james-pearson-makes-second-ascent-of-immortal-north-york-moors/

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/C2XjOK-NPCS/

[3] https://www.instagram.com/p/C2abcTWtoJz/?img_index=1

[4] https://www.instagram.com/p/C2cvx-lNEqZ/

Le Voyage E10 Lead | worked 2017
Equilibrium E10 Lead | worked 7th Mar 2005
A Denti Stretti E10 Lead | worked May 2013
Parthian Shot E10 Lead | worked Aug 2023

Notably James did not place a side runner in Brook's Crack and placed all the gear in the flake on lead. This is potentially the first ascent in this style since the flake broke. To facilitate this style, James started up the first few moves of Dynamics of Change so it would not be possible to place the runners in Brooks Crack. [2]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CwdIroBtUpX/=

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2023/08/james_pearson_climbs_parthian_shot_e10_6c-73439

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_jmQsLive7E

Prisoners of the Sun E10 Lead | worked Aug 2023
The Groove E9 Lead | worked 2008
The Walk of Life E9 Lead | worked 29th Sep 2008 E12
Bonanno Pisano E9 Lead | worked 2015
First ascent.
Knockin' on Heaven's Door E9 Lead | worked 2003
The Zone E9 Lead | worked 9th Nov 2003
Trauma E9 Lead | worked Apr 2007 E9
Gerty Berwick E9 Lead | worked Feb 2009
Muy Caliente! E9 Lead | ground up 2011
Second go.

James came very close to flashing the route, dropping the easier moves after the crux.

References

[1] https://jamespearsonclimbing.blogspot.com/2011/05/muy-caliente-e10-flash-so-close.html

Is Not Always Pasqua? E9 Lead | ground up Dec 2013
Something's Burning E9 Lead | flash Sep 2014

And yesterday, Something's Burning Flash for James. Ok, that was a very precise flash, I showed him every beta, every gear. I wouldn't have let him try the route without preparation otherwise, as the gear is super precise, and not wonderfull at all. Anyway, He didn't fall, flashing is first E9 ever!!!! Thanks Charlie for having had the vision for such a great route!

Caroline Ciavaldini

James Pearson's ascent of Something's Burning E9 surely represents the next level in trad climbing. Having been on this route, I'm just blown away that anyone could possess the strength, skill and nerve to flash it. Truly landmark.

Neil Gresham

It's a very very impressive ascent. But I've gotta say that with font 8b strength I'm not really that surprised. Bold trad climbing has been crying out for someone to combine that level of strength with savvy tactics and serious ambition for a long time. I think its awesome that James has actually stepped up to do the honours. Respect.

Charlie Woodburn

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2014/09/james_pearson_flashes_pembroke_e9-69151

https://www.instagram.com/reel/Cl3_AgMo-RW/

Harder Faster E9 Lead | worked 24th Dec 2020
Fourth ascent.

Harder Faster always represented the epitome of what a hard grit route is. The climbing isn't too bad, but it's hard enough that you never feel in control and especially the style of the climbing, just being on those open slopers at the top. If something goes wrong you can't just pull harder to get out of the situation, you just hope it doesn't go wrong! [4]

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2020/12/hard_grit_repeats_by_james_pearson_and_caroline_ciavaldini-72675

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/CJVkwj-FiUr/

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gygJgiXGxOk

[4] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BYA6r86JALU

Olwen E9 Lead | ground up Between 15th Aug 2023 and 1st Sep 2023
Second go.

James gave the route a good flash go after watching Caroline Ciavaldini working the line, falling off the last hard move (though still with some tricky climbing to go).

I almost backed off from the middle of the lower (potentially dangerous) runout, but eventually made it through to the underthings and good gear that mark the beginning of the upper wall and crux of the route. I had a really good fight, using mostly Caroline’s beta, but having to freestyle a couple of moves that just didn’t quite fit me. I stuck the final hard move with a giant scream, but I was so boxed I fell trying to sort my feet out. It might technically be the last really hard move on the route, but the route is definitely not over at this point. There are still two moves to go before you get to the really good holds, and I think I would’ve surely fallen here, even if I had gotten my feet into position. Actually, on my next attempt, I was about as close as I could get to falling on these very moves. [1]

References

[1] https://www.climber.co.uk/news/james-pearson-repeats-prisoners-of-the-sun-e10-and-olwen-e9/

Couilles de Mammouth E9 (approx) Lead | worked Dec 2023
The Promise E8 Lead | worked Mar 2007 E10
First ascent.

Climbed with a single slider for protection and no pads.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pbNm_qB016c

Return of the Jedi E8 Lead | worked 24th Dec 2010
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Airdrawn Dagger E8 Lead | onsight 2011
Point Blank E8 Lead | onsight 2011
Daddy Cool E8 Lead | flash Apr 2011
Dusk Till Dawn E8 Lead | flash Apr 2011
Elder Statesman E8 Lead | worked
The Power of the Dark Side E7 Lead | worked 27th Dec 2004
From a Distance E7 Lead | onsight Apr 2011
Strawberries E7 Lead | ground up 2012
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade