Nationality: | GB |
Date of birth: | 15th December 1985 |
Hardest Boulder (Worked): | 8C |
Hardest Boulder (Flash): | 8B |
Hardest Sport (Worked): | 9a |
Hardest Trad (Worked): | E12 |
Hardest Trad (Onsight): | E8 |
Hardest Trad (Flash): | E9 |
Notable Partnerships | |
Caroline Ciavaldini | |
Social Media |
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James pearson is an all round climber from the peak district in the UK.
Growing up, James established himself with fast repeats of many hard and scary gritstone routes such as Equilibrium, at the time one of the hardest gritstone routes around, as well as putting up hard routes of his own such as The Promise at Burbage North.
As well as climbing hard trad James also repeated many hard boulder problems. Most notably in 2007 he flashed three problems in the 8A+/B range Ganymede Takeover, The Great Shark Hunt and Schule des Lebens. At the time each of these was considered 8B which would make these ascents some of the hardest flashes in the world at the time though these problems have subsequently been downgraded.
In 2008 James courted controversy when he established The Walk of Life at Dyers Lookout and gave it the unprecedented grade of E12, suggesting it was harder than any other route in the UK at the time. The route is now considered E9, and on reflection James has admitted the route was not in his style which is why it felt as hard as it did for him.
After the controversy around The Walk of Life James moved to Europe and spent a lot of time becoming a more well rounded climber. Around the same time he met his now-wife Caroline Ciavaldini. Putting his training to good use James has now repeated and established a slew of hard sport and trad routes around the world. Notable ascents include many hard onsight and flashes in Pembroke in South Wales, a repeat of Dave MacLeod's Rhapsody at Dumbarton Rock, Jacopo Larcher's Tribe and the first ascent of Le Voyage.
56 recorded ascents.
Year | Climb | Grade | FA | Ascent Date |
---|---|---|---|---|
2003 | Knockin' on Heaven's Door | E9 (Lead) | 2003 | |
The Zone | E9 (Lead) | 9th November 2003 | ||
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A2bdROeVsH4?t=20 https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.143839010406318/143839727072913 |
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2004 | The Power of the Dark Side | E7 (Lead) | ✓ | 27th December 2004 |
https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.143839010406318/143840107072875 |
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2005 | Equilibrium | E10 (Lead) | 7th March 2005 | |
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A2bdROeVsH4?t=458 https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2005/03/equilibrium_gets_its_third_ascent-16083 https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.143839010406318/143840160406203 |
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2006 | Keen Roof | 8B (Boulder) | ✓ | 5th September 2006 |
2007 | Ganymede Takeover | 8A+ (Boulder Flash) | 16th February 2007 | |
At the time the problem was considered to be 8B which would have made this one of the first ever flashes of an 8B boulder problem. |
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The Promise | E8 (Lead) | ✓ | March 2007 | |
Climbed with a single slider for protection and no pads. https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.143839010406318/143840467072839 |
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Trauma | E9 (Lead) | April 2007 | ||
Second ascent. |
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The Great Shark Hunt | 8B (Boulder Flash) | 5th April 2007 | ||
http://www.climbing.de/news/james-pearson-flashes-another-font-8b-36938.html |
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Schule des Lebens | 8A+ (Boulder Flash) | 25th November 2007 | ||
https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2007/12/james_pearson_third_font_8b_flash-41442 |
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2008 | The Groove | E9 (Lead) | ✓ | 2008 |
Off the Wagon | 8B+ (Boulder Did not finish) | 2008 | ||
James came very close to making the first ascent, dropping the last move with his hand on the jug. |
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The Walk of Life | E9 (Lead) | ✓ | 29th September 2008 | |
End of the Affair | E8 (Lead Onsight) | 28th November 2008 | ||
https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg175969.html#msg175969 |
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2009 | Gerty Berwick | E9 (Lead) | February 2009 | |
https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2009/02/gerty_berwick_repeated_by_james_pearson-46075 |
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2010 | Return of the Jedi | E8 (Lead) | ✓ | 24th December 2010 |
2011 | Le blond, la brute et le manouche | 8c+ (Lead) | ✓ | 2011 |
Quello Che Non c’è | 8c+ (Lead) | 2011 | ||
Airdrawn Dagger | E8 (Lead Onsight) | 2011 | ||
Muy Caliente! | E9 (Lead Ground up) | 2011 | ||
Second go. James came very close to flashing the route, dropping the easier moves after the crux. |
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Dusk Till Dawn | E8 (Lead Flash) | 2011 | ||
Point Blank | E8 (Lead Onsight) | 2011 | ||
Lover 2.1 | 8c+ (Lead) | 15th March 2011 | ||
Daddy Cool | E8 (Lead Flash) | April 2011 | ||
https://jamespearsonclimbing.blogspot.com/2011/04/daddy-cool-e8-flash.html |
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2012 | Excalibur | 8c+ (Lead) | 2012 | |
Mind Control | 8c (Lead) | March 2012 | ||
Escalatamàsters | 9a (Lead) | 14th March 2012 | ||
James' first of the grade. |
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2013 | Hydrophobie | 8c+ (Lead) | 2013 | |
A Denti Stretti | E10 (Lead) | May 2013 | ||
First trad ascent. https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/05/a_denti_stretti_-_trad_8b+_for_james_pearson-68043 |
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Is Not Always Pasqua? | E9 (Lead Ground up) | December 2013 | ||
Third ascent. https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/12/italian_e9_ground-up_for_pearson-68605 |
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2014 | Deverse Royale | 8c+ (Lead) | 2014 | |
https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/02/8c+_action_in_turkey_for_james_pearson-67836 |
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Reverrence | 8c+ (Lead) | ✓ | 2014 | |
https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/02/8c+_action_in_turkey_for_james_pearson-67836 |
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Something's Burning | E9 (Lead Flash) | September 2014 | ||
https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2014/09/james_pearson_flashes_pembroke_e9-69151 |
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Rhapsody | E11 (Lead) | 24th September 2014 | ||
2015 | Bonanno Pisano | E9 (Lead) | ✓ | 2015 |
2016 | ||||
2017 | Power Ranger | E11 (Lead) | ✓ | 2017 |
Le Voyage | E10 (Lead) | ✓ | 2017 | |
2018 | ||||
2019 | ||||
2020 | Mr Tom | 8B (Boulder) | 2020 | |
Queen of Heart | 8B (Boulder) | 2020 | ||
La Ligne Claire | 8c+ (Lead) | 2020 | ||
I Shot Sarkonasy SDS | 8B (Boulder) | 2020 | ||
Ba-Boom | 8B+ (Boulder) | ✓ | 2020 | |
Master and Cifuentes | 8B+ (Boulder) | 2020 | ||
Les Mollahs du Mur | 8c+ (Lead) | 2020 | ||
Condé de Choc | 9a (Lead) | 29th July 2020 | ||
https://www.instagram.com/p/CDOywd4FyEY/ https://www.lasportiva.com/en/blog/post/james-pearson-talks-about-conde-de-choc-his-second-9a |
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Tribe | E11 (Lead) | October 2020 | ||
Harder Faster | E9 (Lead) | 24th December 2020 | ||
Fourth ascent.
References[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/CJVkwj-FiUr/ |
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2021 | Ça Chauffe | 9a (Lead) | 2021 | |
Le Corridor Direct assis | 8B (Boulder) | ✓ | 2021 | |
The Ace | 8B (Boulder) | 15th December 2021 | ||
James' first 8B on grit. |
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2022 | Juneru | 8C (Boulder) | 1st March 2022 | |
Lexicon | E11 (Lead) | 11th June 2022 | ||
Prior to making the successful ascent James made a very impressive attempt after an abseil inspection, getting established on the headwall but taking the lob after getting tired from misreading the lower moves out of the break. https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2022/06/james_pearson_climbs_lexicon_e11_7a-73070 |
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2023 | Bon Voyage | E12 (approx) (Lead) | ✓ | Between 1st Jan. 2023 and 9th Feb. 2023 |
References[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CocodAqofQ5/ [2] Interview on the Lattice Training Podcast https://open.spotify.com/episode/3rLiVqJKDnQbxY9fGeoGxK?si=226fe029a4e54c46 |
Climb | Grade | FA | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
---|---|---|---|---|
Escalatamàsters | 9a (Lead) | 14th March 2012 | ||
James' first of the grade. |
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Condé de Choc | 9a (Lead) | 29th July 2020 | ||
https://www.instagram.com/p/CDOywd4FyEY/ https://www.lasportiva.com/en/blog/post/james-pearson-talks-about-conde-de-choc-his-second-9a |
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Ça Chauffe | 9a (Lead) | 2021 | ||
Le blond, la brute et le manouche | 8c+ (Lead) | ✓ | 2011 | |
Reverrence | 8c+ (Lead) | ✓ | 2014 | |
https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/02/8c+_action_in_turkey_for_james_pearson-67836 |
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Quello Che Non c’è | 8c+ (Lead) | 2011 | ||
Lover 2.1 | 8c+ (Lead) | 15th March 2011 | ||
Excalibur | 8c+ (Lead) | 2012 | ||
Hydrophobie | 8c+ (Lead) | 2013 | ||
Deverse Royale | 8c+ (Lead) | 2014 | ||
https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/02/8c+_action_in_turkey_for_james_pearson-67836 |
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La Ligne Claire | 8c+ (Lead) | 2020 | ||
Les Mollahs du Mur | 8c+ (Lead) | 2020 | ||
Mind Control | 8c (Lead) | March 2012 | ||
Inuit | 8b+ (Lead) | |||
Climb | Grade | FA | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
---|---|---|---|---|
Juneru | 8C (Boulder) | 1st March 2022 | ||
Ba-Boom | 8B+ (Boulder) | ✓ | 2020 | |
Off the Wagon | 8B+ (Boulder Did not finish) | 2008 | ||
James came very close to making the first ascent, dropping the last move with his hand on the jug. |
||||
Master and Cifuentes | 8B+ (Boulder) | 2020 | ||
Keen Roof | 8B (Boulder) | ✓ | 5th September 2006 | |
Le Corridor Direct assis | 8B (Boulder) | ✓ | 2021 | |
The Great Shark Hunt | 8B (Boulder Flash) | 5th April 2007 | ||
http://www.climbing.de/news/james-pearson-flashes-another-font-8b-36938.html |
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Queen of Heart | 8B (Boulder) | 2020 | ||
Mr Tom | 8B (Boulder) | 2020 | ||
I Shot Sarkonasy SDS | 8B (Boulder) | 2020 | ||
The Ace | 8B (Boulder) | 15th December 2021 | ||
James' first 8B on grit. |
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Ganymede Takeover | 8A+ (Boulder Flash) | 16th February 2007 | ||
At the time the problem was considered to be 8B which would have made this one of the first ever flashes of an 8B boulder problem. |
||||
Schule des Lebens | 8A+ (Boulder Flash) | 25th November 2007 | ||
https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2007/12/james_pearson_third_font_8b_flash-41442 |
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Monoblock | 8A (Boulder) |
Climb | Grade | FA | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
---|---|---|---|---|
Bon Voyage | E12 (approx) (Lead) | ✓ | Between 1st Jan. 2023 and 9th Feb. 2023 | |
References[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CocodAqofQ5/ [2] Interview on the Lattice Training Podcast https://open.spotify.com/episode/3rLiVqJKDnQbxY9fGeoGxK?si=226fe029a4e54c46 |
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Power Ranger | E11 (Lead) | ✓ | 2017 | |
Rhapsody | E11 (Lead) | 24th September 2014 | ||
Tribe | E11 (Lead) | October 2020 | ||
Lexicon | E11 (Lead) | 11th June 2022 | ||
Prior to making the successful ascent James made a very impressive attempt after an abseil inspection, getting established on the headwall but taking the lob after getting tired from misreading the lower moves out of the break. https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2022/06/james_pearson_climbs_lexicon_e11_7a-73070 |
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Le Voyage | E10 (Lead) | ✓ | 2017 | |
Equilibrium | E10 (Lead) | 7th March 2005 | ||
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A2bdROeVsH4?t=458 https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2005/03/equilibrium_gets_its_third_ascent-16083 https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.143839010406318/143840160406203 |
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A Denti Stretti | E10 (Lead) | May 2013 | ||
First trad ascent. https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/05/a_denti_stretti_-_trad_8b+_for_james_pearson-68043 |
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The Groove | E9 (Lead) | ✓ | 2008 | |
The Walk of Life | E9 (Lead) | ✓ | 29th September 2008 | |
Bonanno Pisano | E9 (Lead) | ✓ | 2015 | |
Knockin' on Heaven's Door | E9 (Lead) | 2003 | ||
The Zone | E9 (Lead) | 9th November 2003 | ||
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A2bdROeVsH4?t=20 https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.143839010406318/143839727072913 |
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Trauma | E9 (Lead) | April 2007 | E9 | |
Second ascent. |
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Gerty Berwick | E9 (Lead) | February 2009 | ||
https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2009/02/gerty_berwick_repeated_by_james_pearson-46075 |
||||
Muy Caliente! | E9 (Lead Ground up) | 2011 | ||
Second go. James came very close to flashing the route, dropping the easier moves after the crux. |
||||
Is Not Always Pasqua? | E9 (Lead Ground up) | December 2013 | ||
Third ascent. https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/12/italian_e9_ground-up_for_pearson-68605 |
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Something's Burning | E9 (Lead Flash) | September 2014 | ||
https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2014/09/james_pearson_flashes_pembroke_e9-69151 |
||||
Harder Faster | E9 (Lead) | 24th December 2020 | ||
Fourth ascent.
References[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/CJVkwj-FiUr/ |
||||
The Promise | E8 (Lead) | ✓ | March 2007 | E10 |
Climbed with a single slider for protection and no pads. https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.143839010406318/143840467072839 |
||||
Return of the Jedi | E8 (Lead) | ✓ | 24th December 2010 | |
End of the Affair | E8 (Lead Onsight) | 28th November 2008 | ||
https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg175969.html#msg175969 |
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Point Blank | E8 (Lead Onsight) | 2011 | ||
Dusk Till Dawn | E8 (Lead Flash) | 2011 | ||
Airdrawn Dagger | E8 (Lead Onsight) | 2011 | ||
Daddy Cool | E8 (Lead Flash) | April 2011 | ||
https://jamespearsonclimbing.blogspot.com/2011/04/daddy-cool-e8-flash.html |
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Elder Statesman | E8 (Lead) | |||
The Power of the Dark Side | E7 (Lead) | ✓ | 27th December 2004 | |
https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.143839010406318/143840107072875 |
Climb | Grade | FA | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
---|