Ben Bransby


Quick Info

Nationality: GB
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8B
Hardest Sport (Worked): 8c
Hardest Trad (Worked): E10
Hardest Trad (Flash): E8
Social Media

Nearly ticked every route on stanage (only Mother of Pearl and Marbellous remain at the time of writing).

References

[1] https://vimeo.com/user6214329

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/showlog.php?id=16901

Quick Info

Nationality: GB
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8B
Hardest Sport (Worked): 8c
Hardest Trad (Worked): E10
Hardest Trad (Flash): E8
Social Media

Nearly ticked every route on stanage (only Mother of Pearl and Marbellous remain at the time of writing).

References

[1] https://vimeo.com/user6214329

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/showlog.php?id=16901


Podcasts


Pics + Vids

Parthian Shot (E10, FA)
Added at 16:01 on 03 January 2021
Superstition (E8)
Added at 12:01 on 30 January 2021
Superbloc (8A+)
Added at 22:01 on 27 January 2021
Screaming Dream (E7)
Added at 23:01 on 27 January 2021
Bon Atrocity (8B, FA)
Added at 10:02 on 07 February 2021
Gwyllgi (8B, FA)
Added at 17:01 on 11 January 2023
The Beast (8c, FA)
Added at 14:06 on 29 June 2021
Baron Greenback (E9)
Added at 11:03 on 09 March 2022
Gwyllgi (8B, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 11:07 on 29 July 2022

Ascents

22 recorded ascents.

Year Climb Grade FA Ascent Date
1998 Chupacabra E8 (Lead) 16th May 1998
1999 Impact Day E8 (Lead Did not finish) 1999

An incredible onsight effort. Ben fell off with a hand on top of the crag!

Underworld E8 (Lead) August 1999
2000 Carmen Picasso E8 (Lead Flash) 21st October 2000

Ben watched Dave MacLeod top rope the route before flashing it with the gear in place. He then repeated the route placing all the gear on lead.

He found some extra gear that was not used on the first ascent and suggested it brought the grade down to E7/8.

https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/ben-bransby-flashes-e9-in-britain.html

2001 Rodney Mullen E9 (Lead) 10th September 2001
2002 Moon Madness E7 (Lead Flash) 2002

References

[1] A record of ground-up and on-sight climbing on Peak, Yorkshire and Lancashire gritstone https://www.thebmc.co.uk/Download.aspx?id=139

2003
2004
2005 Chip Shop Buddy 8A (Boulder) 2005
2006
2007
2008 The Promise E8 (Lead) December 2008

After our extensive testing of the slider this turned into a pretty safe thing although I think Pete [Robins] saying E7 is possibly a little low (although it is Pete so what you would expect) Comparing to other E7 7as such as Little Woman and Groove is in the Heart (fell off the last move on wed) it felt very slightly easier, Fb7b+ rather than Fb7c?, but a fair bit bolder - both the above are very safe, lots of runners and short falls, the Promise has one ok runner and a ground sweeping (although quite short!) fall. We only felt happy taking the fall on the Promise after a few 'practice' falls from right by it and with 5 pads and a ladder below (I would have been happy with no or one pad on the sunday).

I think for James' ascent (not trusting the runner, no pads) you could probably add an E grade or two (I am sure with UKB grade SCIENCE we could work out how many exactly). [1]

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg176038.html#msg176038

2009 Lanny Bassham 8A+ (Boulder) February 2009

https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,11096.0.html

2010 Close of Business 8B (Boulder) 2010
2011
2012 Superbloc 8A+ (Boulder) 2012

https://vimeo.com/35950595

Screaming Dream E7 (Lead) 17th January 2012

3rd or 4th go!

https://vimeo.com/35875749

Bon Atrocity 8B (Boulder) March 2012

https://vimeo.com/37721688

2013 Superstition E8 (Lead) April 2013

Snowballed. Second ascent.

https://vimeo.com/63314131

Longhope Route Direct E9 (Alternate Leads) 25th May 2013

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/05/long_hope_repeated_-_mchaffie_and_bransby-68088

The Beast 8c (Lead) August 2013

https://youtu.be/aBdbUUzdvjg?t=4100

Parthian Shot E10 (Lead) November 2013

The first time the route had been re-climbed since the flake broke.

https://twitter.com/dmmclimbing/status/402829127793016832

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/11/ben_bransby_climbs_parthian_shot-68542

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N6r-McDgBc0

2014 Baron Greenback E9 (Lead) March 2014

https://twitter.com/dmmclimbing/status/448116087448956930

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TvnGcCz2kDs

2015 Full Empire 8c (Lead) August 2015
2016
2017
2018
2019
2020 Mr. Lambtastic 8B (Boulder) August 2020
2021
2022 Gwyllgi 8B (Boulder) 26th July 2022

https://www.instagram.com/p/Cgl6owWD1F_/

https://vimeo.com/775048098

Superman 8B (Boulder) 19th October 2022
Climb Grade FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade
The Beast 8c (Lead) August 2013

https://youtu.be/aBdbUUzdvjg?t=4100

Full Empire 8c (Lead) August 2015
Climb Grade FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Bon Atrocity 8B (Boulder) March 2012

https://vimeo.com/37721688

Gwyllgi 8B (Boulder) 26th July 2022

https://www.instagram.com/p/Cgl6owWD1F_/

https://vimeo.com/775048098

Close of Business 8B (Boulder) 2010
Mr. Lambtastic 8B (Boulder) August 2020
Superman 8B (Boulder) 19th October 2022
Lanny Bassham 8A+ (Boulder) February 2009

https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,11096.0.html

Superbloc 8A+ (Boulder) 2012

https://vimeo.com/35950595

Chip Shop Buddy 8A (Boulder) 2005
Climb Grade FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Parthian Shot E10 (Lead) November 2013

The first time the route had been re-climbed since the flake broke.

https://twitter.com/dmmclimbing/status/402829127793016832

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/11/ben_bransby_climbs_parthian_shot-68542

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N6r-McDgBc0

Rodney Mullen E9 (Lead) 10th September 2001
Longhope Route Direct E9 (Alternate Leads) 25th May 2013

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/05/long_hope_repeated_-_mchaffie_and_bransby-68088

Baron Greenback E9 (Lead) March 2014

https://twitter.com/dmmclimbing/status/448116087448956930

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TvnGcCz2kDs

Chupacabra E8 (Lead) 16th May 1998
Underworld E8 (Lead) August 1999
Impact Day E8 (Lead Did not finish) 1999

An incredible onsight effort. Ben fell off with a hand on top of the crag!

Carmen Picasso E8 (Lead Flash) 21st October 2000 E8

Ben watched Dave MacLeod top rope the route before flashing it with the gear in place. He then repeated the route placing all the gear on lead.

He found some extra gear that was not used on the first ascent and suggested it brought the grade down to E7/8.

https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/ben-bransby-flashes-e9-in-britain.html

The Promise E8 (Lead) December 2008

After our extensive testing of the slider this turned into a pretty safe thing although I think Pete [Robins] saying E7 is possibly a little low (although it is Pete so what you would expect) Comparing to other E7 7as such as Little Woman and Groove is in the Heart (fell off the last move on wed) it felt very slightly easier, Fb7b+ rather than Fb7c?, but a fair bit bolder - both the above are very safe, lots of runners and short falls, the Promise has one ok runner and a ground sweeping (although quite short!) fall. We only felt happy taking the fall on the Promise after a few 'practice' falls from right by it and with 5 pads and a ladder below (I would have been happy with no or one pad on the sunday).

I think for James' ascent (not trusting the runner, no pads) you could probably add an E grade or two (I am sure with UKB grade SCIENCE we could work out how many exactly). [1]

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg176038.html#msg176038

Superstition E8 (Lead) April 2013

Snowballed. Second ascent.

https://vimeo.com/63314131

Moon Madness E7 (Lead Flash) 2002

References

[1] A record of ground-up and on-sight climbing on Peak, Yorkshire and Lancashire gritstone https://www.thebmc.co.uk/Download.aspx?id=139

Screaming Dream E7 (Lead) 17th January 2012

3rd or 4th go!

https://vimeo.com/35875749

Climb Grade FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade