Ben Bransby


Quick Info

Nationality: GB
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8B
Hardest Sport (Worked): 8c
Hardest Trad (Worked): E10
Hardest Trad (Flash): E8
Social Media

Nearly ticked every route on stanage (only Mother of Pearl and Marbellous remain at the time of writing).

References

[1] https://vimeo.com/user6214329

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/showlog.php?id=16901

Contributors: remus

Quick Info

Nationality: GB
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8B
Hardest Sport (Worked): 8c
Hardest Trad (Worked): E10
Hardest Trad (Flash): E8
Social Media

Nearly ticked every route on stanage (only Mother of Pearl and Marbellous remain at the time of writing).

References

[1] https://vimeo.com/user6214329

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/showlog.php?id=16901

Contributors: remus

Lists


Podcasts


Pics + Vids

Parthian Shot (E10, FA)
Added at 16:01 on 03 January 2021
Superstition (E8)
Added at 12:01 on 30 January 2021
Superbloc (8A+)
Added at 22:01 on 27 January 2021
Screaming Dream (E7)
Added at 23:01 on 27 January 2021
Bon Atrocity (8B, FA)
Added at 10:02 on 07 February 2021
Gwyllgi (8B, FA)
Added at 17:01 on 11 January 2023
The Beast (8c, FA)
Added at 14:06 on 29 June 2021
Baron Greenback (E9)
Added at 11:03 on 09 March 2022
Gwyllgi (8B, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 11:07 on 29 July 2022

Ascents

28 recorded ascents.

Year Climb Grade Style Ascent Date
1998 Chupacabra E8 Lead | worked 16th May 1998
First ascent.
1999 Impact Day E8 Lead | did not finish 1999

An incredible onsight effort. Ben fell off with a hand on top of the crag!

Underworld E8 Lead | worked Aug 1999
First ascent.
Black Love E8 Lead | worked Aug 1999

Placing all gear on lead.

2000 Ray's Roof E7 Lead | ground up 2000
Carmen Picasso E8 Lead | flash 21st Oct 2000

Ben watched Dave MacLeod top rope the route before flashing it with the gear in place. He then repeated the route placing all the gear on lead.

He found some extra gear that was not used on the first ascent and suggested it brought the grade down to E7/8.

References

https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/ben-bransby-flashes-e9-in-britain.html

2001 Rodney Mullen E9 Lead | worked 10th Sep 2001
2002 Moon Madness E7 Lead | flash 2002
2003
2004
2005 Chip Shop Buddy 8A Boulder | worked 2005
First ascent.
2006
2007 Little Women E7 Lead | worked 16th Nov 2007
2008 The Promise E8 Lead | worked 7th Dec 2008

After our extensive testing of the slider this turned into a pretty safe thing although I think Pete [Robins] saying E7 is possibly a little low (although it is Pete so what you would expect) Comparing to other E7 7as such as Little Women and Groove is in the Heart (fell off the last move on wed) it felt very slightly easier, Fb7b+ rather than Fb7c?, but a fair bit bolder - both the above are very safe, lots of runners and short falls, the Promise has one ok runner and a ground sweeping (although quite short!) fall. We only felt happy taking the fall on the Promise after a few 'practice' falls from right by it and with 5 pads and a ladder below (I would have been happy with no or one pad on the sunday).

I think for James' ascent (not trusting the runner, no pads) you could probably add an E grade or two (I am sure with UKB grade SCIENCE we could work out how many exactly). [1]

References

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg176038.html#msg176038

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/the_promise_-ground_up-_video-1499

Groove is in the Heart E7 Lead | worked 10th Dec 2008
2009 Lanny Bassham 8A+ Boulder | worked Feb 2009
2010 Close of Business 8B Boulder | worked 2010
2011
2012 Superbloc 8A+ Boulder | worked 2012
Screaming Dream E7 Lead | worked 17th Jan 2012
Fourth go.

References

[1] https://vimeo.com/35875749

Bon Atrocity 8B Boulder | worked Mar 2012
2013 Superstition E8 Lead | worked Apr 2013

Snowballed. Second ascent.

https://vimeo.com/63314131

Longhope Route Direct E9 Alternate Leads | worked 25th May 2013
The Beast 8c Lead | worked Aug 2013
Parthian Shot E10 Lead | worked Nov 2013
First ascent.

The first time the route had been re-climbed since the flake broke.

References

[1] https://twitter.com/dmmclimbing/status/402829127793016832

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/11/ben_bransby_climbs_parthian_shot-68542

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N6r-McDgBc0

[4] Ben commenting on the style of his ascent, September 2023 https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/ukc/james_pearson_climbs_parthian_shot_e10_6c-763419?v=1#x9822066

When it came to reclimbing it after the first flake broke I did as James [Pearson] says - climbed the original line up Brooks crack, trav left and up. I placed a higher side runner in Brooks, I can't remember exactly where but I think it was a body length or so higher than where you trav out. My thinking was it would keep me off the ground if I fell off the crux and the flake broke, but from higher would be less help. My excuses where that from big trad/adventure routes you often wiggle 'off route' by a couple of meters to place gear, I was a bit more of a wimp (wife, kid, dogs etc), and I found the route hard (I'm not as good as James, Jacopo [Larcher] etc). I placed gear in the flake on lead but then did fall off the crux. The fall was less pleasant with the side runner as it did pull me right a little into the arete below rather than just into space/against the flat wall, but it was a lot better than hitting the deck. I left the gear in for the next go, when I did manage it, so although pre placed on the ascent it was only the 3 or 4 pieces that I had placed and equalised as best I could on lead...

2014 Baron Greenback E9 Lead | worked Mar 2014
2015 Full Empire 8c Lead | worked Aug 2015
First ascent.
2016
2017
2018
2019
2020 Mr. Lambtastic 8B Boulder | worked Aug 2020
2021
2022 Gwyllgi 8B Boulder | worked 26th Jul 2022
Superman 8B Boulder | worked 19th Oct 2022
2023 Cool Water 8b+ Lead | worked 29th Aug 2023
First ascent.
Selladore E8 Lead | worked 18th Oct 2023
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
The Beast 8c Lead | worked Aug 2013
Full Empire 8c Lead | worked Aug 2015
First ascent.
Cool Water 8b+ Lead | worked 29th Aug 2023
First ascent.
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Bon Atrocity 8B Boulder | worked Mar 2012
Gwyllgi 8B Boulder | worked 26th Jul 2022
Close of Business 8B Boulder | worked 2010
Mr. Lambtastic 8B Boulder | worked Aug 2020
Superman 8B Boulder | worked 19th Oct 2022
Lanny Bassham 8A+ Boulder | worked Feb 2009
Superbloc 8A+ Boulder | worked 2012
Chip Shop Buddy 8A Boulder | worked 2005
First ascent.
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Parthian Shot E10 Lead | worked Nov 2013
First ascent.

The first time the route had been re-climbed since the flake broke.

References

[1] https://twitter.com/dmmclimbing/status/402829127793016832

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/11/ben_bransby_climbs_parthian_shot-68542

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N6r-McDgBc0

[4] Ben commenting on the style of his ascent, September 2023 https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/ukc/james_pearson_climbs_parthian_shot_e10_6c-763419?v=1#x9822066

When it came to reclimbing it after the first flake broke I did as James [Pearson] says - climbed the original line up Brooks crack, trav left and up. I placed a higher side runner in Brooks, I can't remember exactly where but I think it was a body length or so higher than where you trav out. My thinking was it would keep me off the ground if I fell off the crux and the flake broke, but from higher would be less help. My excuses where that from big trad/adventure routes you often wiggle 'off route' by a couple of meters to place gear, I was a bit more of a wimp (wife, kid, dogs etc), and I found the route hard (I'm not as good as James, Jacopo [Larcher] etc). I placed gear in the flake on lead but then did fall off the crux. The fall was less pleasant with the side runner as it did pull me right a little into the arete below rather than just into space/against the flat wall, but it was a lot better than hitting the deck. I left the gear in for the next go, when I did manage it, so although pre placed on the ascent it was only the 3 or 4 pieces that I had placed and equalised as best I could on lead...

Rodney Mullen E9 Lead | worked 10th Sep 2001
Longhope Route Direct E9 Alternate Leads | worked 25th May 2013
Baron Greenback E9 Lead | worked Mar 2014
Chupacabra E8 Lead | worked 16th May 1998
First ascent.
Underworld E8 Lead | worked Aug 1999
First ascent.
Impact Day E8 Lead | did not finish 1999

An incredible onsight effort. Ben fell off with a hand on top of the crag!

Black Love E8 Lead | worked Aug 1999

Placing all gear on lead.

Carmen Picasso E8 Lead | flash 21st Oct 2000 E8

Ben watched Dave MacLeod top rope the route before flashing it with the gear in place. He then repeated the route placing all the gear on lead.

He found some extra gear that was not used on the first ascent and suggested it brought the grade down to E7/8.

References

https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/ben-bransby-flashes-e9-in-britain.html

The Promise E8 Lead | worked 7th Dec 2008

After our extensive testing of the slider this turned into a pretty safe thing although I think Pete [Robins] saying E7 is possibly a little low (although it is Pete so what you would expect) Comparing to other E7 7as such as Little Women and Groove is in the Heart (fell off the last move on wed) it felt very slightly easier, Fb7b+ rather than Fb7c?, but a fair bit bolder - both the above are very safe, lots of runners and short falls, the Promise has one ok runner and a ground sweeping (although quite short!) fall. We only felt happy taking the fall on the Promise after a few 'practice' falls from right by it and with 5 pads and a ladder below (I would have been happy with no or one pad on the sunday).

I think for James' ascent (not trusting the runner, no pads) you could probably add an E grade or two (I am sure with UKB grade SCIENCE we could work out how many exactly). [1]

References

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg176038.html#msg176038

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/the_promise_-ground_up-_video-1499

Superstition E8 Lead | worked Apr 2013

Snowballed. Second ascent.

https://vimeo.com/63314131

Selladore E8 Lead | worked 18th Oct 2023
Ray's Roof E7 Lead | ground up 2000
Moon Madness E7 Lead | flash 2002
Little Women E7 Lead | worked 16th Nov 2007
Groove is in the Heart E7 Lead | worked 10th Dec 2008
Screaming Dream E7 Lead | worked 17th Jan 2012
Fourth go.

References

[1] https://vimeo.com/35875749

Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade