Wimberry Rocks

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First runner clipped and placed with a stick

Bolts on the prow date from a 1969 aid route. On Dougie's 1986 ascent, bolts on the underside of the prow were pre-clipped by abseil because the team couldn't remember where Nick Plishko had hidden the long sticks required to clip them from the ground. The line had been eyed by knowledgeable Peak activists and, just as Hardy finished seconding the climb, one of them (John Allen) arrived at the crag armed with 'fishing rods'.

Astonishingly, Dougie lead the line with no pre-practice, but perhaps some knowledge of the difficulties from Nick Plishko.

References

[1] Mountain Issue 141 (1991), page 10 https://climbing-history.org/library/11320/mountain-141

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 130, page 21

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=96p2lctm_TU

I’d been on the line once or twice years ago and knew it was quality and had very hard climbing. I went on it again maybe six weeks ago and figured out a demon sequence which I thought could work. After a few more days spent working the route, in various conditions, I managed to top-rope it cleanly. Then, after a couple more warm and wet visits, (why does Wimberry seem to have its own weather system?) I hiked up to Wimberry yet again, and found that it was coolish and my skin was good (which is pretty important). I’d borrowed a slider from Johnboy for the higher gear in the starting flake. I top-roped the route a couple more times and waited for the temperature to drop a bit (to make it feel more secure). I set off on the lead, pulled up to the first pebble, thenpinch, crimp, arête, go again, then set up for the crux… ‘NO!’ it just felt wrong! I slapped down a move and jumped off. Oh well, at least the higher gear held! I think the main problem was it was getting late and I hadn’t eaten anything since breakfast, so after half a muesli bar and a few minutes rest I set off again, last chance, since it was getting dark! Bang, bang, bang… I didn’t think too much, hit the crux easy, two more flicks autopilot, that’s the hardest bit done, but man I’m scared, I want to be blank right now but I’m scared. I don’t even want to be here anymore but there’s only one way out, so I rock up, sloper, weird high feet, pull up to big pebble thing and then decent pocket, good arête, breathe, top, happy now!! [2]

References

[1] https://vimeo.com/6824917

[2] https://www.climbing.com/news/gritstone-action-at-uks-wimberry-rocks/

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e2es_JX_Hcw

References

[1] https://vimeo.com/76675846

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CCqItM7gmoZ/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2ZpprpkFh9I