Neil Kershaw


Quick Info

Nationality: GB
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8A
Hardest Trad (Worked): E9
Hardest Trad (Onsight): E7

Quick Info

Nationality: GB
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8A
Hardest Trad (Worked): E9
Hardest Trad (Onsight): E7

Pics + Vids

Duel (8A)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 11:10 on 21 October 2021
The Master's Edge (E7)
Added at 17:01 on 24 January 2021
MaDMAn (E8)
Added at 19:01 on 31 January 2021
Knockin' on Heaven's Door (E9)
Added at 22:01 on 10 January 2021

Ascents

7 recorded ascents.

This timeline is missing some ascents where the date of the ascent is unknown. Use the other tabs to view these ascents.
Year Climb Grade FA Ascent Date
2010 The Master's Edge E7 (Lead Onsight) 11 Apr 2010

https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg256035.html#msg256035

Knockin' on Heaven's Door E9 (Lead) 01 Oct 2010 (approx)

Just to clarify, as the situation with this route is not cut and dried as with most routes. We started up Knockin', made a short traverse left to the bomber gear in a hole just beneath the lip (which Born Slippy climbs a variant start to reach, not really required), then came back along the traverse and finished as per usual, hand-placing a peg on the way (on lead). I believe Alex Honnold headpointed the route a similar way although without the hand-placed pegs and reckoned E8 6c. Both myself and Ryan think that is about right. You could argue that should the hand-placed peg hold then its more like E7 6c, but its far from a certainty and its probably sensible to assume it will rip, hence the back-up plan of the Born Slippy gear, which would almost certainly prevent a groundfall with a decent belay.

2011
2012
2013
2014 Dynamics of Change E9 (Lead) 01 Mar 2014 (approx)

Second ascent.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2014/03/big_news_on_the_grit_dynamics_of_change_and_captain_invincible-68756

Meshuga E9 (Lead) 24 Mar 2014 (approx)
MaDMAn E8 (Lead) 01 Apr 2014 (approx)

Second ascent? Also added a direct finish.

Thanks chaps! In answer to some of the questions; to best of my knowledge this was the second ascent of MaDMAn, although you never know, it has been nearly twenty years since the FA! From the position Dave is in that picture his original line bridges out into Trident, the neighbouring HVS, and finishes up this. This manoeuvre is still tricky! On the day the very green sidewalls of Trident were pretty gopping too. I found that if instead you did another move up to stand higher (eeek!) on the "ledge" then you could reach round enough to get a bomber rock 12 in the base of the wedged block trident feature after which the HVS is named (although not enough to actually reach any holds / an HVS position!), then just carry straight on up the upper arête from the same spot. Its a balancey position and feels pretty spooky / falloffable to place but it is definitely en route and seemed like a good idea as the route was wet when we arrived and the upper section relies on quite a few pebble footholds and recently de-mossed handholds. Top section probably E6 6b on its own and you could actually do it as a separate route starting up Trident I suppose? Its really excellent climbing. As TB says once you get that gear in the top feels very enjoyable so I doubt it changes the original grade. I see it as an extension to MaDMAn rather than a new route, obviously if Dave Pegg had bothered to take a rope and harness he would have cruised up it I'm sure. [1]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D8oFJXVsyvU

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg442692.html#msg442692

2015
2016
2017
2018 Duel 8A (Boulder) 01 Apr 2018 (approx)

https://www.instagram.com/p/BhB-QypDy9lKHHMZ9UrhONWtFmQhAa4JdTM-AQ0/

Climb Grade FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Climb Grade FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Duel 8A (Boulder) 01 Apr 2018 (approx)

https://www.instagram.com/p/BhB-QypDy9lKHHMZ9UrhONWtFmQhAa4JdTM-AQ0/

Butternut Squash 7C+ (Boulder)
Climb Grade FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Knockin' on Heaven's Door E9 (Lead) 01 Oct 2010 (approx) E8

Just to clarify, as the situation with this route is not cut and dried as with most routes. We started up Knockin', made a short traverse left to the bomber gear in a hole just beneath the lip (which Born Slippy climbs a variant start to reach, not really required), then came back along the traverse and finished as per usual, hand-placing a peg on the way (on lead). I believe Alex Honnold headpointed the route a similar way although without the hand-placed pegs and reckoned E8 6c. Both myself and Ryan think that is about right. You could argue that should the hand-placed peg hold then its more like E7 6c, but its far from a certainty and its probably sensible to assume it will rip, hence the back-up plan of the Born Slippy gear, which would almost certainly prevent a groundfall with a decent belay.

Dynamics of Change E9 (Lead) 01 Mar 2014 (approx)

Second ascent.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2014/03/big_news_on_the_grit_dynamics_of_change_and_captain_invincible-68756

Meshuga E9 (Lead) 24 Mar 2014 (approx)
MaDMAn E8 (Lead) 01 Apr 2014 (approx)

Second ascent? Also added a direct finish.

Thanks chaps! In answer to some of the questions; to best of my knowledge this was the second ascent of MaDMAn, although you never know, it has been nearly twenty years since the FA! From the position Dave is in that picture his original line bridges out into Trident, the neighbouring HVS, and finishes up this. This manoeuvre is still tricky! On the day the very green sidewalls of Trident were pretty gopping too. I found that if instead you did another move up to stand higher (eeek!) on the "ledge" then you could reach round enough to get a bomber rock 12 in the base of the wedged block trident feature after which the HVS is named (although not enough to actually reach any holds / an HVS position!), then just carry straight on up the upper arête from the same spot. Its a balancey position and feels pretty spooky / falloffable to place but it is definitely en route and seemed like a good idea as the route was wet when we arrived and the upper section relies on quite a few pebble footholds and recently de-mossed handholds. Top section probably E6 6b on its own and you could actually do it as a separate route starting up Trident I suppose? Its really excellent climbing. As TB says once you get that gear in the top feels very enjoyable so I doubt it changes the original grade. I see it as an extension to MaDMAn rather than a new route, obviously if Dave Pegg had bothered to take a rope and harness he would have cruised up it I'm sure. [1]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D8oFJXVsyvU

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg442692.html#msg442692

The Master's Edge E7 (Lead Onsight) 11 Apr 2010

https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg256035.html#msg256035

Climb Grade FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade