Dave Thomas


Quick Info

Nationality: GB
Hardest Sport (Worked): 7b+
Hardest Trad (Worked): E6
Hardest Trad (Onsight): E6
Hardest Trad (Flash): E6

Interview with Wil Treasure on the Factor Two podcast https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yri_x9Z9KG4.

Contributors: remus

Quick Info

Nationality: GB
Hardest Sport (Worked): 7b+
Hardest Trad (Worked): E6
Hardest Trad (Onsight): E6
Hardest Trad (Flash): E6

Interview with Wil Treasure on the Factor Two podcast https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yri_x9Z9KG4.

Contributors: remus

Podcasts


Pics + Vids

Added at 07:12 on 02 December 2021
Lord of the Flies (E6)
Added at 10:12 on 02 December 2021
Terra Cotta (E6, FA)
Added at 10:12 on 02 December 2021
Terra Cotta (E6, FA)
Added at 11:12 on 02 December 2021
Lazarus (E6)
Added at 08:02 on 04 February 2022

Ascents

7 recorded ascents.

This timeline is missing some ascents where the date of the ascent is unknown. Use the other tabs to view these ascents.
Year Climb Grade Style Ascent Date
1986 Lord of the Flies E6 Lead | onsight 1986
1987
1988
1989 Terra Cotta E6 Solo | flash Aug 1989
First ascent.

An outrageously bold piece of climbing.

Dave briefly checked a loose block on an ab rope, as well as a few moves around the block. [1]

There was a moment when I had to drop down on to this rail that goes through this iconic, what I call the railway tunnel part of the route, and I had to hold this hold together. It was shifting, like a pack of cards balanced on top of this rail in lots of little bits, but it was the hold I had to use and I basically had to just grip it together and hope it didn't disintegrate. Thankfully it didn't and I dropped on to the rail, aped along it and stuck a foot in the break at the end and hung out backwards laughing...absolutely amazing! [1]

On the style of the ascent:

I'd been looking up from the cave with a view to just doing it as a lead anyway, but could tell from the ground that the large block on the lip could well be loose, so thought I'd better give it a look. I'd done Caveman a couple of times...and just thought the direct would be cool as a single pitch blast from Moonraker.

Abbed it, and knocked the block off, so wanted to see if it would still go, but just tried that one move - a completely stupid way, with weight on the rope, and thinking "That'll do". No aspirations of soloing it at that point, so wasn't sure where the large block beneath was.

Arrived with Frank Ramsey, and had already "joked" about soloing it. Got to the move on the lip, and realised it didn't climb as I thought. It may not be too bad - edit. It's probably easy, but just one of those "Oh flip" moments; biggish move - but I was just in commitment mode, and in a bit of a rush! 😁 [2]

[1] https://youtu.be/yri_x9Z9KG4?t=1453

[2] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,31629.msg650019.html#msg650019

1990 Lord of the Flies E6 Solo | repeat Aug 1990

When I got there Lord was wet, there was a big wet streak running down it...and it was a case of waiting for it to dry out, hoping it would dry out in time to do the route...I left it as long as I could and when I set out I wasn't sure whether it was in sufficiently good condition.

1991
1992
1993
1994
1995
1996
1997
1998 Art Brut E7 Solo 1998
First ascent.
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Sardine 7b+ Solo | worked

References

[1] Peak Limestone North, First Ascents Supplement /file/bc3fd0e4-a3ee-a736-1cbf-d68af9f0910e/peak_lime_north_first_ascents.pdf

Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Art Brut E7 Solo 1998
First ascent.
Terra Cotta E6 Solo | flash Aug 1989
First ascent.

An outrageously bold piece of climbing.

Dave briefly checked a loose block on an ab rope, as well as a few moves around the block. [1]

There was a moment when I had to drop down on to this rail that goes through this iconic, what I call the railway tunnel part of the route, and I had to hold this hold together. It was shifting, like a pack of cards balanced on top of this rail in lots of little bits, but it was the hold I had to use and I basically had to just grip it together and hope it didn't disintegrate. Thankfully it didn't and I dropped on to the rail, aped along it and stuck a foot in the break at the end and hung out backwards laughing...absolutely amazing! [1]

On the style of the ascent:

I'd been looking up from the cave with a view to just doing it as a lead anyway, but could tell from the ground that the large block on the lip could well be loose, so thought I'd better give it a look. I'd done Caveman a couple of times...and just thought the direct would be cool as a single pitch blast from Moonraker.

Abbed it, and knocked the block off, so wanted to see if it would still go, but just tried that one move - a completely stupid way, with weight on the rope, and thinking "That'll do". No aspirations of soloing it at that point, so wasn't sure where the large block beneath was.

Arrived with Frank Ramsey, and had already "joked" about soloing it. Got to the move on the lip, and realised it didn't climb as I thought. It may not be too bad - edit. It's probably easy, but just one of those "Oh flip" moments; biggish move - but I was just in commitment mode, and in a bit of a rush! 😁 [2]

[1] https://youtu.be/yri_x9Z9KG4?t=1453

[2] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,31629.msg650019.html#msg650019

Lord of the Flies E6 Lead | onsight 1986
Lord of the Flies E6 Solo | repeat Aug 1990

When I got there Lord was wet, there was a big wet streak running down it...and it was a case of waiting for it to dry out, hoping it would dry out in time to do the route...I left it as long as I could and when I set out I wasn't sure whether it was in sufficiently good condition.

Lazarus E6 Lead | onsight
The Flaming Drambuie E6 Solo | worked
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade