Dave Thomas

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References

[1] Mountain Issue 137 (1991), page 17 /library/11318/mountain-137

References

[1] Peak Limestone North, First Ascents Supplement /file/bc3fd0e4-a3ee-a736-1cbf-d68af9f0910e/peak_lime_north_first_ascents.pdf

An outrageously bold piece of climbing.

Dave briefly checked a loose block on an ab rope, as well as a few moves around the block. [1]

There was a moment when I had to drop down on to this rail that goes through this iconic, what I call the railway tunnel part of the route, and I had to hold this hold together. It was shifting, like a pack of cards balanced on top of this rail in lots of little bits, but it was the hold I had to use and I basically had to just grip it together and hope it didn't disintegrate. Thankfully it didn't and I dropped on to the rail, aped along it and stuck a foot in the break at the end and hung out backwards laughing...absolutely amazing! [1]

On the style of the ascent:

I'd been looking up from the cave with a view to just doing it as a lead anyway, but could tell from the ground that the large block on the lip could well be loose, so thought I'd better give it a look. I'd done Caveman a couple of times...and just thought the direct would be cool as a single pitch blast from Moonraker.

Abbed it, and knocked the block off, so wanted to see if it would still go, but just tried that one move - a completely stupid way, with weight on the rope, and thinking "That'll do". No aspirations of soloing it at that point, so wasn't sure where the large block beneath was.

Arrived with Frank Ramsey, and had already "joked" about soloing it. Got to the move on the lip, and realised it didn't climb as I thought. It may not be too bad - edit. It's probably easy, but just one of those "Oh flip" moments; biggish move - but I was just in commitment mode, and in a bit of a rush! 😁 [2]

[1] https://youtu.be/yri_x9Z9KG4?t=1453

[2] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,31629.msg650019.html#msg650019

Dave soloed a slightly easier version at around E5. [2]

References

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,347.msg2810.html#msg2810

[2] Mountain Issue 137 (1991), page 17 /library/11318/mountain-137

References

[1] Mountain Issue 137 (1991), page 17 /library/11318/mountain-137

First bolt-free ascent.

References

[1] Mountain 127, page 44 /library/11116/mountain-127

References

[1] Mountain 127, page 44 /library/11116/mountain-127

When I got there Lord was wet, there was a big wet streak running down it...and it was a case of waiting for it to dry out, hoping it would dry out in time to do the route...I left it as long as I could and when I set out I wasn't sure whether it was in sufficiently good condition.

With Martin Perry. Memorably captured in the film Hard XS. [2]

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/nine_moments_in_the_making_of_hardxs-757

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sCbw0lsMxKE

Dave was very close to the flash, falling after a hold broke at the end of the crux. [1]

References

[1] Mountain 127, page 45 /library/11116/mountain-127

Nick White:

Time was when things were peaceful in Devon and a sleepy quietude pervaded the wooded dells, high moors and pungent grottoes of the sea cliffs. Until, that is, Dave Thomas let out the most spine chilling and blood curdling scream for a top rope ever heard in creation!!!! Visibly shaken and hanging onto life by the thinnest of threads (a sling that has been in situ for nigh on a decade and a half) our crazed hero had reached what can only be described as an terminal impasse. What had started out s a light hearted (!?!) photo­ session of Dave soloing Call to Arms (E4 5c), on the Sanctuary Wall, became an epic fight for life. Even Glenn Robbins had to put away his sharp-pointy-stick - for prodding cowering subjects into ever more fearsome surroundings - and go to the aid of Dave's now tortuously pain- wracked body. Twenty minutes of negotiating loose, steep and thorn ridden slopes saw Glenn manage to get the required lifeline into position, only to find that it hung fifteen feet out from the stricken soloist!!! The ensuing moan from below, like the song of a dying whale, heralded a comeback bout that even Rocky Balboa would have deemed impossible. Out of sheer desperation Dave launched his now rigored frame into what must surely have seemed like its final tumultuous death throe. By dint of sheer willpower alone he clawed his way to the belay, the hummingbird of "The Only Blasphemy" fame hovering just in front of his nose. Alas for poor Dave the story didn't end there, as he could not remember the way off, and spent a further hour trying to reverse the maze­ like first pitch of the ironically name Incubus. [1]

References

[1] Mountain Issue 140 (1991), page 16