Robin Barker

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References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.117978419659044/117979096325643

Top roped and then led on the same day.

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.117978419659044/117980099658876

References

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg439184.html#msg439184

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.117978419659044/117981222992097

Robin had a finger injury at the time!

References

In terms of the grade, I suspect I was a bit over-zealous with suggesting 6c and 7a is likely the correct grade. In previous discussions with Malcolm I think we agreed something like E8 / 7a / 8b / 7C+. Regardless of the grade, Transcendence is a very fine line with superb climbing and a might good effort from Malcolm at the time. [1]

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg581608.html#msg581608

I held Robin’s ropes when he repeated it. I’ll always remember because he was mid crux and then slapping for the break when a RAF Tornado roared past the crag a few meters away with a body shaking, terrifying, ear splitting boom just as he grabbed the break with one hand just as I clamped both of mine over my ears with the ropes held lightly in one hand. I was mightily relieved that he didn’t fall off. Great days 😳 [2]

[2] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg581588.html#msg581588

First climbed by Robin Barker in 1994, the direct start up the arete had been obvious for some time, and was even mentioned in the last guidebook. Robin named the route Slackers and graded it top-end E6 6b. Since then a couple of repeats occured, Neil Bentley fell off it and persuaded Robin to grade it E7, and Sam Whittaker beta-flashed it in 1998, where-upon the route gained the dubious honour of featuring on the front cover of On The Edge magazine.

Now the floodgates have opened, and the route has seen at least another four ascents by April 1999. The grade will probably settle out now at E6 6b. But it's the route that counts not the grade, afterall!

References

[1] https://mail.oocities.org/yosemite/4755/climbing/slackers/index.html

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.115413049915581/115414339915452

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.117978419659044/117981336325419

On his first attempt Robin soloed the scary start, placed the cams in the break and then down climbed to the ground. The cams were then left pre-clipped for subsequent attempts.

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 73, page 9