Steve McClure is a British sport climber and boulderer who was at the forefront of English and Welsh sport climbing from the late 1990s to until late 2010s and in more recent years has applied his considerable talents to establishing and repeating some of the hardest trad climbs in the UK.
In 1998 he established Mutation at Raven Tor, at the time he suggested 9a but it steadfastly stood the test of time with a repeat taking until 2021 to materialise and along with it an upgrade to 9a+ making it one of the first of the grade in the world. He then went on to further cement himself as Britain's leading sport climber of the time by climbing Ben Moon's Kilnsey project to produce Northern Lights.
Over the following decades Steve continued to almost single-handedly push hard sport climbing in the UK with routes like Rainshadow, Overshadow and Rainman as well as many other notable contributions to Malham Cove, Kilnsey and the peak district.
Steve is also a very capable trad climber and has repeated and established some of the UKs hardest trad climbs. For example his onsight of Nightmayer on Dinas Cromlech is one of the most impressive ascents in this style in the UK as of 2021.
The first time I came to Malham it looked like the easiest crag in the world...
60 recorded ascents.
Year | Climb | Grade | FA | Ascent Date |
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1996 | Evolution | 8c+ (Lead) | 1996 | |
Footage of a much later ascent https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DBxwQ--odXg. |
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1997 | ||||
1998 | The Very Big and the Very Small | 8b+ (Lead) | 1998 | |
Second ascent. |
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Mecca Extension | 8c (Lead) | ✓ | 1998 | |
Mutation | 9a+ (Lead) | ✓ | 14th October 1998 | |
A hugely impressive ascent. Steve suggested 9a but it is now considered 9a+ which makes it the first of the grade in the UK and the first of the brade by a British person. It took Steve 24 sessions over 4 years to make the first ascent.
Steve's diary [2]Below are some extracts from Steve's diary while he was attempting the route. 7th October 1998, day 22:
10th October 1998, day 23:
[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CVDi_UjDMGG/ [2] Extracts from Steve's diary in the days leading up to making the first ascent http://steve-mcclure.com/articles/155-mutation-a-bunch-of-happy-days-at-the-tor [3] Rupert Davies and Steve trying some moves and sequences on the route https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h8yl9bytOuo [4] https://www.instagram.com/p/CVx65_hIqBp/ [5] Steve on the route in 2001, photo by Simon Carter https://www.instagram.com/p/CWUR2kyMNMH/ |
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1999 | Dreadnaught | 8c (Lead) | ✓ | 1999 |
Monsterosity | 8b (Lead) | ✓ | 1999 | |
2000 | Top Loader | E7 (Lead Flash) | 2000 | |
References[1] A record of ground-up and on-sight climbing on Peak, Yorkshire and Lancashire gritstone https://www.thebmc.co.uk/Download.aspx?id=139 |
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Transform | 8c (Lead) | 2000 | ||
Second ascent. Steve and Malcolm Smith worked the route together then Steve made the second ascent a few days after Malc made the FA. |
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Northern Lights | 9a (Lead) | ✓ | 18th July 2000 | |
Steve cemented himself as the top sport climber in the UK, taking over from Moon and Moffatt and leading sport climbing in the UK in to a new era. Notably, Steve used a different sequence from what Ben Moon was trying with the original line. Steve's sequence loops out slightly where Ben was trying to go very direct. |
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To Bolt or Not to Be | 8b+ (Lead) | 22nd October 2000 | ||
2001 | ||||
2002 | Indian Summer | 8b+ (Lead Onsight) | 1st August 2002 | |
First 8b+ onsight by a brit? |
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2003 | Rainshadow | 9a (Lead) | ✓ | 20th June 2003 |
Extension to Raindogs. Breakdown is 8a in to 8A in to 8a+. |
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Close of Business | 8B (Boulder) | 1st September 2003 | ||
2004 | Hajj | 8c (Lead) | ✓ | 2004 |
Ring of Fire | 8b+ (Deep Water Solo Ground up) | ✓ | 2004 | |
Kaa'bah | 8c+ (Lead) | ✓ | 2004 | |
Elder Statesman | E8 (Lead) | ✓ | 2nd March 2004 | |
Steve used 3 ropes on the first ascent. This turned out to be a very wise choice! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QDTAKVUE_g4 https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.143839010406318/143839793739573 |
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2005 | Somehow Super | 8c (Lead) | June 2005 | |
2006 | Roofolution | 9a (Lead) | ✓ | June 2006 |
2007 | Overshadow | 9a+ (Lead) | ✓ | 23rd May 2007 |
Rooster Crossing | 8c (Lead) | ✓ | June 2007 | |
2008 | North Star | 9a (Lead) | ✓ | 15th May 2008 |
Rhapsody | E11 (Lead) | 15th June 2008 | ||
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4uWnE5_Ln5s https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2008/06/steve_mcclure_climbs_rhapsody_trotter_does_it_again-44777 |
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2009 | Stevolution | 9a (Lead) | ✓ | 2009 |
Kalea Borroka | 8b+ (Lead Onsight) | 20th May 2009 | ||
Hubble | 9a (Lead) | 30th July 2009 | ||
https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2009/08/steve_mcclure_-_hubble_f8c+-48867 |
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2010 | Pedigree Chum | 8c+ (Boulder) | 2010 | |
The Great Escape | 8b+ (Lead) | ✓ | 2010 | |
Finest Pedigree | 9a+ (Boulder) | ✓ | 8th July 2010 | |
Cruz Diablo | 8c+ (Lead) | ✓ | 5th November 2010 | |
2011 | The Quarryman | E8 (Lead) | 27th May 2011 | |
The first one-day ascent of the full line. |
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Dawes Rides a Shovelhead | E8 (Lead Onsight) | August 2011 | ||
2012 | ||||
2013 | Batman | 9a (Lead) | ✓ | 22nd May 2013 |
On a previous redpoint Steve had all but done the route when a quickdraw with a sticky gate got jammed in his knot as he climbed past, stopping him mere inches from the finishing jugs and robbing him of the ascent. |
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Tom et je Ris | 8b+ (Lead Onsight) | 12th July 2013 | ||
2014 | Strawberries | E7 (Lead Onsight) | June 2014 | |
https://twitter.com/stemac5a/status/478260353399545857 https://www.thebmc.co.uk/sweet-taste-of-strawberries-for-steve-mcclure |
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2015 | Muy Caliente! | E9 (Lead) | July 2015 | |
Choronzon | E10 (Lead) | 12th July 2015 | ||
~8b+. https://www.thebmc.co.uk/pembroke-demon-route-slain-by-strong-steve-mcclure |
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2016 | Taka Okame | 8b+ (Lead) | 2016 | |
2017 | Rainman | 9b (Lead) | ✓ | 4th June 2017 |
Known as 'The Easy Easy' project before it was done. 127 sessions spanning 10 seasons. Steve's diary of his attempts on the route is available here http://www.steve-mcclure.com/articles/131-rainman-saga. 16/5/2013 - session 40, on a training link of Bat Route in to the top of Rainman.
20/4/2014 - Session 53
6/11/2014
5/6/2015 - Session 74
15/6/2015 - Session 76
29/9/2015 - Session 79
5/10/2015 - Session 80
19/4/2016 - Session 91
23/5/2016 - Session 99
7/11/2016 - Session 108
28/4/2017 - Session 117
12/5/2017 - Session 121
21/5/2017 - Session 124
4/6/2017 - Session 127
https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2017/06/steve_mcclure_on_rainman_9b-71135 |
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2018 | The Reign is Over | 8c (Lead) | ✓ | April 2018 |
2019 | Nightmayer | E8 (Lead Onsight) | 2019 | |
Une Jeune Fille Quatre Vingt Dix Ans | E8 (Lead Flash) | May 2019 | ||
GreatNess Wall | E10 (Lead) | ✓ | 27th May 2019 | |
2020 | Fixation | 8c+ (Lead) | ✓ | September 2020 |
2021 | The Final Round | E9 (Lead) | 26th April 2021 | |
Olympiad | 8b (Lead) | May 2021 | ||
Second ascent, and the first on trad gear.
References[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2021/06/steve_mcclure_repeats_greshams_olympiad_e10_6c8b_dws-72791 [2] https://www.instagram.com/p/CPam7tEjlIR/ [3] https://www.instagram.com/p/CPbIX6kn1mq/ |
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Impact Day | E8 (Lead Flash) | 19th June 2021 | ||
https://www.instagram.com/p/CPFwYjwDWhH/ https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2021/05/steve_mcclure_flashes_impact_day_e8_6c-72782 |
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Always the Sun | E7 (Lead Onsight) | August 2021 | ||
Lexicon | E11 (Lead) | 21st September 2021 | ||
Second ascent. Before the successful ascent Steve took a huge fall [4] from the very top of the route, estimated to be around 20m! References[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CUGKwg9I08O/ [2] https://www.instagram.com/p/CUKv0PloFU1/ [3] https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=391908775842548&set=a.229693922064035 |
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2022 | ||||
2023 | Le Voyage | E10 (Lead) | 23rd March 2023 | |
References[1] Interview with Xa White for UKClimbing.com, March 2023 https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/steve_mcclure_repeats_le_voyage_e10_7a-15116 |
Climb | Grade | FA | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
---|---|---|---|---|
Rainman | 9b (Lead) | ✓ | 4th June 2017 | 9b |
Known as 'The Easy Easy' project before it was done. 127 sessions spanning 10 seasons. Steve's diary of his attempts on the route is available here http://www.steve-mcclure.com/articles/131-rainman-saga. 16/5/2013 - session 40, on a training link of Bat Route in to the top of Rainman.
20/4/2014 - Session 53
6/11/2014
5/6/2015 - Session 74
15/6/2015 - Session 76
29/9/2015 - Session 79
5/10/2015 - Session 80
19/4/2016 - Session 91
23/5/2016 - Session 99
7/11/2016 - Session 108
28/4/2017 - Session 117
12/5/2017 - Session 121
21/5/2017 - Session 124
4/6/2017 - Session 127
https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2017/06/steve_mcclure_on_rainman_9b-71135 |
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Mutation | 9a+ (Lead) | ✓ | 14th October 1998 | 9a |
A hugely impressive ascent. Steve suggested 9a but it is now considered 9a+ which makes it the first of the grade in the UK and the first of the brade by a British person. It took Steve 24 sessions over 4 years to make the first ascent.
Steve's diary [2]Below are some extracts from Steve's diary while he was attempting the route. 7th October 1998, day 22:
10th October 1998, day 23:
[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CVDi_UjDMGG/ [2] Extracts from Steve's diary in the days leading up to making the first ascent http://steve-mcclure.com/articles/155-mutation-a-bunch-of-happy-days-at-the-tor [3] Rupert Davies and Steve trying some moves and sequences on the route https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h8yl9bytOuo [4] https://www.instagram.com/p/CVx65_hIqBp/ [5] Steve on the route in 2001, photo by Simon Carter https://www.instagram.com/p/CWUR2kyMNMH/ |
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Overshadow | 9a+ (Lead) | ✓ | 23rd May 2007 | |
Northern Lights | 9a (Lead) | ✓ | 18th July 2000 | |
Steve cemented himself as the top sport climber in the UK, taking over from Moon and Moffatt and leading sport climbing in the UK in to a new era. Notably, Steve used a different sequence from what Ben Moon was trying with the original line. Steve's sequence loops out slightly where Ben was trying to go very direct. |
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Rainshadow | 9a (Lead) | ✓ | 20th June 2003 | |
Extension to Raindogs. Breakdown is 8a in to 8A in to 8a+. |
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Roofolution | 9a (Lead) | ✓ | June 2006 | |
North Star | 9a (Lead) | ✓ | 15th May 2008 | |
Stevolution | 9a (Lead) | ✓ | 2009 | |
Batman | 9a (Lead) | ✓ | 22nd May 2013 | 9a/9a+ |
On a previous redpoint Steve had all but done the route when a quickdraw with a sticky gate got jammed in his knot as he climbed past, stopping him mere inches from the finishing jugs and robbing him of the ascent. |
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Hubble | 9a (Lead) | 30th July 2009 | 8c+ (hard) | |
https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2009/08/steve_mcclure_-_hubble_f8c+-48867 |
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Kaa'bah | 8c+ (Lead) | ✓ | 2004 | |
Cruz Diablo | 8c+ (Lead) | ✓ | 5th November 2010 | |
Fixation | 8c+ (Lead) | ✓ | September 2020 | |
Magnetic North | 8c+ (Lead) | ✓ | ||
Bat Shadow | 8c+ (Lead) | ✓ | ||
Evolution | 8c+ (Lead) | 1996 | ||
Footage of a much later ascent https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DBxwQ--odXg. |
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The Bastard | 8c+ (Lead) | |||
Second ascent. |
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Mecca Extension | 8c (Lead) | ✓ | 1998 | |
Dreadnaught | 8c (Lead) | ✓ | 1999 | |
Hajj | 8c (Lead) | ✓ | 2004 | |
Rooster Crossing | 8c (Lead) | ✓ | June 2007 | |
The Reign is Over | 8c (Lead) | ✓ | April 2018 | |
Transform | 8c (Lead) | 2000 | ||
Second ascent. Steve and Malcolm Smith worked the route together then Steve made the second ascent a few days after Malc made the FA. |
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Somehow Super | 8c (Lead) | June 2005 | ||
The Great Escape | 8b+ (Lead) | ✓ | 2010 | |
The Very Big and the Very Small | 8b+ (Lead) | 1998 | ||
Second ascent. |
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To Bolt or Not to Be | 8b+ (Lead) | 22nd October 2000 | ||
Indian Summer | 8b+ (Lead Onsight) | 1st August 2002 | ||
First 8b+ onsight by a brit? |
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Kalea Borroka | 8b+ (Lead Onsight) | 20th May 2009 | ||
Tom et je Ris | 8b+ (Lead Onsight) | 12th July 2013 | ||
Taka Okame | 8b+ (Lead) | 2016 | ||
Dr Crimp | 8b+ (Lead Onsight) | |||
Monsterosity | 8b (Lead) | ✓ | 1999 | |
Idefix | 8b (Lead Onsight) | |||
Austrian Oak | 8b (Lead Flash) | |||
Kali Yuga | 8b (Lead Onsight) | |||
Victor Hugo | 8b (Lead Onsight) |
Climb | Grade | FA | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
---|---|---|---|---|
Fat Lip | 8B (Boulder) | ✓ | ||
Close of Business | 8B (Boulder) | 1st September 2003 |
Climb | Grade | FA | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
---|---|---|---|---|
Finest Pedigree | 9a+ (Boulder) | ✓ | 8th July 2010 | |
Pedigree Chum | 8c+ (Boulder) | 2010 | ||
Ring of Fire | 8b+ (Deep Water Solo Ground up) | ✓ | 2004 | |
Olympiad | 8b (Lead) | May 2021 | E10 | |
Second ascent, and the first on trad gear.
References[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2021/06/steve_mcclure_repeats_greshams_olympiad_e10_6c8b_dws-72791 [2] https://www.instagram.com/p/CPam7tEjlIR/ [3] https://www.instagram.com/p/CPbIX6kn1mq/ |