Seb Grieve

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It took Seb three years to climb the route and when he finally succeeded he said, “It’s got to be called K3, as it’s much harder to climb than K2”. Since Seb has never set foot in the Himalaya, this is quite an unusual statement.

During the time that elapsed from bolting the route to its final completion, approximately 90% of the sport climbing population of Sheffield belayed Seb at one time or another. [1]

References

[1] Peak Limestone North, First Ascents Supplement /file/bc3fd0e4-a3ee-a736-1cbf-d68af9f0910e/peak_lime_north_first_ascents.pdf

References

[1] Mountain Issue 134 (1990), page 13 /library/11317/mountain-134

References

[1] Page 56 https://www.thebmc.co.uk/Handlers/DownloadHandler.ashx?id=1291

Some 15 pieces of gear were pre-placed in the flake.

References

[1] Climber June 1997, page 4

You cheeky little thing, I'll have you yet... [1]

References

[1] Hard Grit (1998)

[2] On The Edge Issue 73, page 9

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PawVn_-Cgiw

Top roped clean several times but could not bring myself to lead.

References

[1] Mountain Issue 128 (1989), page 13 /library/11313/mountain-128

From the right with the peg.

Seb could span around arete to a good hold, so suggested E8 6c.

Both feet cut loose on the crux so just put 'em back on again and carried on. Glad my belayer did not jump off the block and pull me off.

Climbed during the height of the 1st sport climbing era. People had thrown away all their trad gear and were wearing brightly coloured tights. Had to persuade Stuart to call in on the way back from Raven's Tor to hold my ropes. Dead chuffed because this was my 1st E7.

References

[1] Mountain Issue 128 (1989), page 13 /library/11313/mountain-128

Excellent fun. Buying and making the gear is all part of the experience. Buy hardened steel pegs, saw them to length, add tape to stop them sliding out. Buy a six inch nail with a round flat head, add tape and tie off. Easy to top rope but gets harder when you add the pegs which block your hand holds.

References

[1] Mountain Issue 128 (1989), page 13 /library/11313/mountain-128

Grieve suggested E8 for his solo ascent.

Soloed (Friend 6 did not exist.) with home-made knee-pads made from bathroom towels for added friction. Jeans are a good idea as well. Swinging across with a guppy and a pinch to the a-cheval position is the crux. Coming out of a-cheval to final layback is the heart-stopper and impossible to choreograph due to the 'knee-pad drift'. Felt very E8 at the time. Harder and bolder than Gaia and End of the Affair.

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.117978419659044/117979619658924

Steady for E7.

The first grit E7 onsight?

There is some misconception that the original ascent traversed in from the right. It did not. I climbed more direct using some long reaches to make it a purer more direct line.