Harder Faster | E9 Trad climb at Black Rocks

As I flow through the sequence of moves, I am only partially aware of what I am doing. My thoughts are hazy, in a self-induced state of obedience. The body leads and the mind follows, always one step behind, always in a state of humble acknowledgement, registering the present as it flows, unaware of future or past, free from the savage responsibility of thought. Fear and thought are synonymous and consequently the most frightening part of the ascent coincides with the only moment of dominance my mind has: the decision to go. Concentration is of the essence, the act of forcibly stupefying the senses and allowing myself to follow the drift of my own body. As I climb, I feel as though I am leaving myself behind, and by giving myself up to the movement of the rock, by concentrating myself into the subtle tensions the moves require, I am able to escape the obligation to think, and this, more than anything else, brings me a measure of peace. [1]

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/charlie-woodburn-gritstone-masterpiece-harder-faster-black-rocks.html

Top roped clean several times but could not bring myself to lead.

Second ascent.

James Pearson:

We'd been out climbing on the gritstone, it was kind of a miserable, soggy day and then the sun came out, the skys were blue and we said "Maybe Harder Faster might dry out"...Toby just completely, nonchalantly, put his gear on and set off up the route. I don't even remember him top roping it before which is completely nuts now I know what the route is like!

He was absolutely in his element. He just did it. [2]

[1] https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.143839010406318/143839783739574

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BYA6r86JALU

Third ascent.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/ukc/hard_grit_repeats_by_james_pearson_and_caroline_ciavaldini-729343?v=1#x9367318

Fourth ascent.

Harder Faster always represented the epitome of what a hard grit route is. The climbing isn't too bad, but it's hard enough that you never feel in control and especially the style of the climbing, just being on those open slopers at the top. If something goes wrong you can't just pull harder to get out of the situation, you just hope it doesn't go wrong! [4]

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2020/12/hard_grit_repeats_by_james_pearson_and_caroline_ciavaldini-72675

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/CJVkwj-FiUr/

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gygJgiXGxOk

[4] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BYA6r86JALU