From: | United Kingdom 🇬🇧 |
Hardest Sport (Worked): | 8c+ |
Hardest Trad (Worked): | E11 |
Notable Partnerships | |
Rachel Farmer | |
Tim Emmett | |
Airlie Anderson |
Neil Gresham is a British climber who is notable for his had trad ascents, including early repeats of notable test pieces such as Johnny Dawes' Indian Face E9 and Neil Bentley's Equilibrium E10 as well as making his own contributions to hard trad in the uk with routes such as Lexicon E11 and Final Score E10.
As well as his trad climbing Neil was an early adopter of deep water soloing in the UK, establishing some of the harder DWS lines in the UK such as
[1] Interview with Dave MacLeod 2018, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I2wgXc_blao
[2] Interview with Niall Grimes part 1, 2024 https://open.spotify.com/episode/4H9lcr8Fp4lR6lMMmJa8Yt?
[3] Interview with Niall Grimes part 2, 2024 https://open.spotify.com/episode/5cac0uPMB1TYDaUF8XN06f?
27 recorded ascents.
Climb | Grade | Style | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
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Sabotage | 8c+ | Lead | worked | Oct 2016 | |
First ascent.
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Freakshow | 8c | Lead | worked | Aug 2015 | 8c |
First ascent.
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Premonition | 8b+ | Lead | worked | 2015 | |
First ascent.
References |
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Labyrinth | 8b | Lead | worked | Apr 2010 | |
First ascent.
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La Rose et le Vampire | 8b | Lead | worked | 1990s | |
References[1] https://open.spotify.com/episode/4H9lcr8Fp4lR6lMMmJa8Yt? |
Climb | Grade | Style | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
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Climb | Grade | Style | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
---|---|---|---|---|
Lexicon | E11 | Lead | worked | 4th Sep 2021 | |
Final Score | E10 | Lead | worked | Sep 2020 | |
First ascent.
References |
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Equilibrium | E10 | Lead | worked | 12th Dec 2002 | |
Second ascent.
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Fearless | E9 | Lead | worked | 15th Jun 2008 | E9 |
First ascent.
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Indian Face | E9 | Lead | worked | 1994 | |
Third ascent. Belayed by Airlie Anderson.
Just days after Nick Dixon made the second ascent.
References[1] https://open.spotify.com/episode/5cac0uPMB1TYDaUF8XN06f? |
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Gribin Wall Climb | E9 | Lead | worked | Between 24th May 1997 and 1st Jan 1998 | |
Second ascent.
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Meshuga | E9 | Lead | worked | 2000 | |
Second ascent.
Prior to making the second ascent Neil took a nasty ground fall and banged his head resulting in severe vertigo. References[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/Co_4j5SNocT/ [2] On The Edge Issue 97, page 28 |
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Gravediggers | E8 | Lead | worked | Jun 1997 | |
First ascent. With Patch Hammond.
References[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/DBEH3D5tyuw/ [2] https://www.neilgresham.com/climbing/first-ascents/traditional-climbing/uk [3] On The Edge Issue 71, page 73 |
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Airdrawn Dagger | E8 | Lead | worked | 2004 | |
First ascent. Belayed by Tim Emmett.
References[1] https://www.neilgresham.com/climbing/first-ascents/traditional-climbing/uk |
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San Simian | E8 | Lead | worked | May 2004 | |
First ascent.
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San Simian | E8 | Deep Water Solo | repeat | 2007 | |
Way Out West | E8 | Lead | worked | 2020 | |
First ascent.
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Minaret | E8 | Lead | worked | 1999 | |
Groove Rider | E7 | Lead | worked | 31st Aug 1998 | |
First ascent.
References[1] https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.115413049915581/115416679915218 |
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The Flying Dutchman | E7 | Deep Water Solo | worked | 2006 | |
First ascent.
References |
Climb | Grade | Style | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
---|---|---|---|---|
Olympiad | 8b | Deep Water Solo | worked | 27th Jul 2012 | 8b |
First ascent.
References[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xZzdtFsm-ZQ [2] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/neil-gresham-and-his-olympiad-climb.html |
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Hydrotherapy | 8a+ | Deep Water Solo | worked | Aug 2011 | |
First ascent.
References |
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The Wizard | 8a | Deep Water Solo | worked | 21st Jun 2004 | |
First ascent.
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Cutlass | 8a | Deep Water Solo | ground up | 2007 | |
First ascent.
References |
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Excalibur | 8a | Deep Water Solo | worked | 14th Aug 2010 | |
First ascent.
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Occam's Razor | 7c+ | Deep Water Solo | worked | Sep 2011 | |
First ascent.
References[1] Photos of Neil on Route https://www.instagram.com/neil.gresham/p/DBWCO2VNDFW/?img_index=1 |
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Ejector Seat | 7c | Deep Water Solo | ground up | Oct 2001 | |
First ascent.
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