Ron Fawcett


Quick Info

Nationality: GB
Date of birth: 06 May 1955
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8A
Hardest Sport (Worked): 8a+
Hardest Trad (Worked): E9
Hardest Trad (Onsight): E5
Notable Partnerships
Pete Livesey

Ron Fawcett was at the top of the UK climbing scene in the mid 70s and early 80s and one of the first professional climbers in the UK. He took up the mantel from climbers such as Pete Livesey and helped cement the E5 and E6 grade in the UK. He also put up some of the early hard sport routes in the UK with lines such as Sardine, Body Machine and The Prow at Raven Tor.

Ron famously climbed 100 extremes (i.e. routes graded E1 or harder on the British Trad grading scale) in a day in 1986 starting at Froggatt then going on to Stanage, Burbage and finishing at Curbar. This feat is even more impressive when you consider that Ron was not just picking the easiest routes available: Downhill Racer (E4), Heartless Hare (E5) and Ulysses or Bust (E5) feature among the hard routes that he climbed. See [3] for a full list.

References

[1] Rock Athlete, by Sid Perou https://youtu.be/tdRfqD125-g?t=1522

[2] Interview with Andy Pollitt https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/andy_pollitt+big_ron_fawcett-9483.

[3] Ticklist of Ron's 100 extremes in a day https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=548

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/282305001835682

Quick Info

Nationality: GB
Date of birth: 06 May 1955
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8A
Hardest Sport (Worked): 8a+
Hardest Trad (Worked): E9
Hardest Trad (Onsight): E5
Notable Partnerships
Pete Livesey

Ron Fawcett was at the top of the UK climbing scene in the mid 70s and early 80s and one of the first professional climbers in the UK. He took up the mantel from climbers such as Pete Livesey and helped cement the E5 and E6 grade in the UK. He also put up some of the early hard sport routes in the UK with lines such as Sardine, Body Machine and The Prow at Raven Tor.

Ron famously climbed 100 extremes (i.e. routes graded E1 or harder on the British Trad grading scale) in a day in 1986 starting at Froggatt then going on to Stanage, Burbage and finishing at Curbar. This feat is even more impressive when you consider that Ron was not just picking the easiest routes available: Downhill Racer (E4), Heartless Hare (E5) and Ulysses or Bust (E5) feature among the hard routes that he climbed. See [3] for a full list.

References

[1] Rock Athlete, by Sid Perou https://youtu.be/tdRfqD125-g?t=1522

[2] Interview with Andy Pollitt https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/andy_pollitt+big_ron_fawcett-9483.

[3] Ticklist of Ron's 100 extremes in a day https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=548

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/282305001835682


Pics + Vids

Added at 18:03 on 01 March 2021
Added at 18:08 on 30 August 2021
Lord of the Flies (E6, FA)
Added at 18:12 on 18 December 2020
Body Machine (7c+, FA)
Added at 11:12 on 22 December 2020
The Master's Edge (E7, FA)
Added at 18:03 on 01 March 2021
Lord of the Flies (E6, FA)
Added at 00:03 on 20 March 2021
Strawberries (E7, FA)
Added at 00:03 on 20 March 2021
The Big Sleep (E6, FA)
Added at 00:03 on 20 March 2021
Wall of Fossils (E6, FA)
Added at 00:03 on 20 March 2021
Ivory Madonna (E5, FA)
Added at 00:03 on 20 March 2021
True Grip (E5, FA)
Added at 00:03 on 20 March 2021
J.R. (E5, FA)
Added at 00:03 on 20 March 2021
Atomic Hot Rod (E5, FA)
Added at 00:03 on 20 March 2021
Hall of Warriors (E5, FA)
Added at 01:03 on 20 March 2021
Crimson Cruiser (E5, FA)
Added at 01:03 on 20 March 2021
Supersonic (E5, FA)
Added at 19:02 on 28 February 2021
Bananas (E5)
Added at 08:02 on 05 February 2022

Ascents

39 recorded ascents.

This timeline is missing some ascents where the date of the ascent is unknown. Use the other tabs to view these ascents.
Year Climb Grade FA Ascent Date
1976 Slip 'n' Slide E6 (Solo) 01 Jan 1976 (approx)

One of the boldest routes on grit at the time.

Supersonic E5 (Lead) 01 Jan 1976 (approx)
Cream Team Special E5 (Alternate Leads) 01 Jan 1976 (approx)
Cream E4 (Lead) 01 Jan 1976 (approx)

During a BMC international meet.

1977
1978 The Cad E6 (Lead) 01 Jan 1978 (approx)

Ron suggested E5, though he also controversially placed 2 bolts (which were later removed).

Citadel E5 (Lead) 01 Jan 1978 (approx)
Desperate Dan E6 (Lead) 01 Jan 1978 (approx)
1979 Lord of the Flies E6 (Lead) 26 Jun 1979

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0WlDugUn5cQ

https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115862996537253&set=a.115862679870618

1980 Crimson Cruiser E5 (Lead) 01 Apr 1980 (approx)

https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863506537202&set=a.115862679870618

Bananas E5 (Lead) 01 Apr 1980 (approx)
Strawberries E7 (Lead) 01 Apr 1980 (approx)

Ron lead the route in yo-yo style and gave it E5.

https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863216537231&set=a.115862679870618

Atomic Hot Rod E5 (Lead) 11 Apr 1980

https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863403203879&set=a.115862679870618

Hall of Warriors E5 (Lead) 11 Apr 1980

https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863439870542&set=a.115862679870618

J.R. E5 (Lead) 12 Apr 1980

https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863403203879&set=a.115862679870618

Ivory Madonna E5 (Lead) 18 Apr 1980

https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863383203881&set=a.115862679870618

True Grip E5 (Lead) 19 Apr 1980

https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863383203881&set=a.115862679870618

Wall of Fossils E6 (Lead) 01 May 1980 (approx)

https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863283203891&set=a.115862679870618

The Big Sleep E6 (Lead) 01 May 1980 (approx)

https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863256537227&set=a.115862679870618

1981 Sardine 7b+ (Lead) 01 Jan 1981 (approx)

First free ascent.

1982 The Vision 7c+ (Lead) 01 Jan 1982 (approx)
Indecent Exposure 7c (Lead) 01 Jan 1982 (approx)
The Prow 8a (Lead) 01 Jan 1982 (approx)

Climbed in three pitches. Geoff Birtles, editor of Crags magazine, proclaimed it the hardest route in the world at the time.

Eye of the Tiger E7 (Lead) 01 Jan 1982 (approx)

A great effort considering the time it was done, featuring 7c/+ sport climbing on traditionally protected climbing.

Cave Route Right Hand (Pre 2018) E6 (Lead) 01 Jan 1982 (approx)
Tequila Mockingbird 7c+ (Lead) 01 May 1982 (approx)

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116578176465735/116578503132369

Imminent Crisis E5 (Lead) 07 May 1982

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.149994316457454/149994329790786

1983 The Master's Edge E7 (Lead) 01 Dec 1983 (approx)

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/288281861237996

1984 Mescalito 7c+ (Lead) 01 Jan 1984 (approx)
Revelations (Pre-1999) 8a+ (Lead) 01 Jan 1984 (approx)
Defcon 3 8a (Lead) 01 Jan 1984 (approx)
Body Machine 7c+ (Lead) 01 Jan 1984 (approx)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kwqlYLg9Bic

New Dawn 7c (Lead) 01 Jan 1984 (approx)
1985 Zoolook 8a (Lead) 01 Jan 1985 (approx)
1986 Toy Boy 7C+ (Boulder) 01 Jan 1986 (approx)
1987 Moon Madness E7 (Lead) 01 Jan 1987 (approx)
Careless Torque 8A (Boulder) 01 Jan 1987 (approx)

Ron jumped from progressively higher up Not to be Taken Away to build up the confidence to commit to the hard upper moves.

1988
1989
1990
1991 Jasmine E6 (Solo) 01 Jan 1991 (approx)
1992 Ron's Girdle Traverse E5 (Solo Onsight) 01 Jan 1992 (approx)
Climb Grade FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Revelations (Pre-1999) 8a+ (Lead) 01 Jan 1984 (approx)
The Prow 8a (Lead) 01 Jan 1982 (approx)

Climbed in three pitches. Geoff Birtles, editor of Crags magazine, proclaimed it the hardest route in the world at the time.

Defcon 3 8a (Lead) 01 Jan 1984 (approx)
Zoolook 8a (Lead) 01 Jan 1985 (approx)
The Vision 7c+ (Lead) 01 Jan 1982 (approx)
Tequila Mockingbird 7c+ (Lead) 01 May 1982 (approx)

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116578176465735/116578503132369

Body Machine 7c+ (Lead) 01 Jan 1984 (approx)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kwqlYLg9Bic

Mescalito 7c+ (Lead) 01 Jan 1984 (approx)
Indecent Exposure 7c (Lead) 01 Jan 1982 (approx)
New Dawn 7c (Lead) 01 Jan 1984 (approx)
Sardine 7b+ (Lead) 01 Jan 1981 (approx)

First free ascent.

Climb Grade FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Careless Torque 8A (Boulder) 01 Jan 1987 (approx)

Ron jumped from progressively higher up Not to be Taken Away to build up the confidence to commit to the hard upper moves.

Toy Boy 7C+ (Boulder) 01 Jan 1986 (approx)
Climb Grade FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Knockin' on Heaven's Door E9 (Lead) E7

Second ascent? Ron climbed the route in a similar style to the FA and thought it was worth about E7 [1].

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/andy_pollitt+big_ron_fawcett-9483

Strawberries E7 (Lead) 01 Apr 1980 (approx)

Ron lead the route in yo-yo style and gave it E5.

https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863216537231&set=a.115862679870618

Eye of the Tiger E7 (Lead) 01 Jan 1982 (approx)

A great effort considering the time it was done, featuring 7c/+ sport climbing on traditionally protected climbing.

The Master's Edge E7 (Lead) 01 Dec 1983 (approx)

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/288281861237996

Moon Madness E7 (Lead) 01 Jan 1987 (approx)
Slip 'n' Slide E6 (Solo) 01 Jan 1976 (approx)

One of the boldest routes on grit at the time.

Desperate Dan E6 (Lead) 01 Jan 1978 (approx)
The Cad E6 (Lead) 01 Jan 1978 (approx) E5

Ron suggested E5, though he also controversially placed 2 bolts (which were later removed).

Lord of the Flies E6 (Lead) 26 Jun 1979

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0WlDugUn5cQ

https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115862996537253&set=a.115862679870618

The Big Sleep E6 (Lead) 01 May 1980 (approx)

https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863256537227&set=a.115862679870618

Wall of Fossils E6 (Lead) 01 May 1980 (approx)

https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863283203891&set=a.115862679870618

Cave Route Right Hand (Pre 2018) E6 (Lead) 01 Jan 1982 (approx)
Jasmine E6 (Solo) 01 Jan 1991 (approx)
Cream Team Special E5 (Alternate Leads) 01 Jan 1976 (approx)
Supersonic E5 (Lead) 01 Jan 1976 (approx)
Citadel E5 (Lead) 01 Jan 1978 (approx)
Crimson Cruiser E5 (Lead) 01 Apr 1980 (approx)

https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863506537202&set=a.115862679870618

Hall of Warriors E5 (Lead) 11 Apr 1980

https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863439870542&set=a.115862679870618

Atomic Hot Rod E5 (Lead) 11 Apr 1980

https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863403203879&set=a.115862679870618

J.R. E5 (Lead) 12 Apr 1980

https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863403203879&set=a.115862679870618

Ivory Madonna E5 (Lead) 18 Apr 1980

https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863383203881&set=a.115862679870618

True Grip E5 (Lead) 19 Apr 1980

https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863383203881&set=a.115862679870618

Imminent Crisis E5 (Lead) 07 May 1982

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.149994316457454/149994329790786

Ron's Girdle Traverse E5 (Solo Onsight) 01 Jan 1992 (approx)
Bananas E5 (Lead) 01 Apr 1980 (approx)
Cream E4 (Lead) 01 Jan 1976 (approx)

During a BMC international meet.

Climb Grade FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade