Ron Fawcett


Quick Info

Nationality: GB
Date of birth: 6th May 1955
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8A
Hardest Sport (Worked): 8a+
Hardest Trad (Worked): E9
Hardest Trad (Onsight): E5
Notable Partnerships
Pete Livesey

Ron Fawcett was at the top of the UK climbing scene in the mid 70s and early 80s and one of the first professional climbers in the UK. He took up the mantel from climbers such as Pete Livesey and helped cement the E5 and E6 grade in the UK. He also put up some of the early hard sport routes in the UK with lines such as Sardine, Body Machine and The Prow at Raven Tor.

Ron famously climbed 100 extremes (i.e. routes graded E1 or harder on the British Trad grading scale) in a day in 1986 starting at Froggatt then going on to Stanage, Burbage and finishing at Curbar. This feat is even more impressive when you consider that Ron was not just picking the easiest routes available: Downhill Racer (E4), Heartless Hare (E5) and Ulysses or Bust (E5) feature among the hard routes that he climbed. See [3] for a full list.

References

[1] Rock Athlete, by Sid Perou https://youtu.be/tdRfqD125-g?t=1522

[2] Interview with Andy Pollitt https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/andy_pollitt+big_ron_fawcett-9483.

[3] Ticklist of Ron's 100 extremes in a day https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=548

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/282305001835682

Quick Info

Nationality: GB
Date of birth: 6th May 1955
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8A
Hardest Sport (Worked): 8a+
Hardest Trad (Worked): E9
Hardest Trad (Onsight): E5
Notable Partnerships
Pete Livesey

Ron Fawcett was at the top of the UK climbing scene in the mid 70s and early 80s and one of the first professional climbers in the UK. He took up the mantel from climbers such as Pete Livesey and helped cement the E5 and E6 grade in the UK. He also put up some of the early hard sport routes in the UK with lines such as Sardine, Body Machine and The Prow at Raven Tor.

Ron famously climbed 100 extremes (i.e. routes graded E1 or harder on the British Trad grading scale) in a day in 1986 starting at Froggatt then going on to Stanage, Burbage and finishing at Curbar. This feat is even more impressive when you consider that Ron was not just picking the easiest routes available: Downhill Racer (E4), Heartless Hare (E5) and Ulysses or Bust (E5) feature among the hard routes that he climbed. See [3] for a full list.

References

[1] Rock Athlete, by Sid Perou https://youtu.be/tdRfqD125-g?t=1522

[2] Interview with Andy Pollitt https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/andy_pollitt+big_ron_fawcett-9483.

[3] Ticklist of Ron's 100 extremes in a day https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=548

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/282305001835682


Pics + Vids

Added at 18:03 on 01 March 2021
Added at 18:08 on 30 August 2021
Supersonic (E5, FA)
Added at 19:02 on 28 February 2021
Lord of the Flies (E6, FA)
Added at 00:03 on 20 March 2021
Lord of the Flies (E6, FA)
Added at 18:12 on 18 December 2020
Strawberries (E7, FA)
Added at 00:03 on 20 March 2021
The Big Sleep (E6, FA)
Added at 00:03 on 20 March 2021
Wall of Fossils (E6, FA)
Added at 00:03 on 20 March 2021
Ivory Madonna (E5, FA)
Added at 00:03 on 20 March 2021
True Grip (E5, FA)
Added at 00:03 on 20 March 2021
J.R. (E5, FA)
Added at 00:03 on 20 March 2021
Atomic Hot Rod (E5, FA)
Added at 00:03 on 20 March 2021
Hall of Warriors (E5, FA)
Added at 01:03 on 20 March 2021
Crimson Cruiser (E5, FA)
Added at 01:03 on 20 March 2021
The Master's Edge (E7, FA)
Added at 18:03 on 01 March 2021
Body Machine (7c+, FA)
Added at 11:12 on 22 December 2020
Bananas (E5)
Added at 08:02 on 05 February 2022

Ascents

44 recorded ascents.

This timeline is missing some ascents where the date of the ascent is unknown. Use the other tabs to view these ascents.
Year Climb Grade FA Ascent Date
1971 Mulatto Wall E3 (Lead Unknown) 1971
Problem Wall E2 (Solo Unknown) 1971

Ron's first recorded new route.

1972
1973
1974
1975
1976 Mortlock's Arete E4 (Lead Unknown) 1976

Second ascent.

Slip 'n' Slide E6 (Solo) 1976

One of the boldest routes on grit at the time.

Cream Team Special E5 (Alternate Leads) 1976
Cream E4 (Lead) 1976

During a BMC international meet.

Supersonic E5 (Lead) 1976
1977
1978 Milky Way E6 (Lead) 1978
The Cad E6 (Lead) 1978

Ron suggested E5, though he also controversially placed 2 bolts (which were later removed).

Citadel E5 (Lead) 1978
Desperate Dan E6 (Lead) 1978
1979 Lord of the Flies E6 (Lead) 26th June 1979

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0WlDugUn5cQ

https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115862996537253&set=a.115862679870618

1980 Bananas E5 (Lead) April 1980
Crimson Cruiser E5 (Lead) April 1980

https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863506537202&set=a.115862679870618

Strawberries E7 (Lead) April 1980

Ron lead the route in yo-yo style and gave it E5.

https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863216537231&set=a.115862679870618

Atomic Hot Rod E5 (Lead) 11th April 1980

https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863403203879&set=a.115862679870618

Hall of Warriors E5 (Lead) 11th April 1980

https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863439870542&set=a.115862679870618

J.R. E5 (Lead) 12th April 1980

https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863403203879&set=a.115862679870618

Ivory Madonna E5 (Lead) 18th April 1980

https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863383203881&set=a.115862679870618

True Grip E5 (Lead) 19th April 1980

https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863383203881&set=a.115862679870618

Wall of Fossils E6 (Lead) May 1980

https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863283203891&set=a.115862679870618

The Big Sleep E6 (Lead) May 1980

https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863256537227&set=a.115862679870618

1981 Sardine 7b+ (Lead) 1981

First free ascent.

1982 Indecent Exposure 7c (Lead) 1982
Cave Route Right Hand (Pre 2018) E6 (Lead) 1982
The Vision 7c+ (Lead) 1982
Cave Route Left Hand 7c+ (Lead) 1982
The Prow 8a (Lead) 1982

Climbed in three pitches. Geoff Birtles, editor of Crags magazine, proclaimed it the hardest route in the world at the time.

Eye of the Tiger E7 (Lead) 1982

A great effort considering the time it was done, featuring 7c/+ sport climbing on traditionally protected climbing.

Tequila Mockingbird 7c+ (Lead) May 1982

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116578176465735/116578503132369

Imminent Crisis E5 (Lead) 7th May 1982

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.149994316457454/149994329790786

1983 The Master's Edge E7 (Lead) December 1983

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/288281861237996

1984 Body Machine 7c+ (Lead) 1984

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kwqlYLg9Bic

New Dawn 7c (Lead) 1984
Mescalito 7c+ (Lead) 1984
Defcon 3 8a (Lead) 1984
Revelations (Pre-1999) 8a+ (Lead) 1984
1985 Zoolook 8a (Lead) 1985
1986 Toy Boy 7C+ (Boulder) 1986
1987 Careless Torque 8A (Boulder) 1987

Ron tried the moves on a rope before jumping from progressively higher up Not to be Taken Away to build up the confidence to commit to the hard upper moves.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/how_was_careless_torque_first_climbed-335185?v=1#x4944420

Moon Madness E7 (Lead) 1987
1988
1989
1990
1991 Jasmine E6 (Solo) 1991
1992 Ron's Girdle Traverse E5 (Solo Onsight) 1992
1993
Climb Grade FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Revelations (Pre-1999) 8a+ (Lead) 1984
The Prow 8a (Lead) 1982

Climbed in three pitches. Geoff Birtles, editor of Crags magazine, proclaimed it the hardest route in the world at the time.

Defcon 3 8a (Lead) 1984
Zoolook 8a (Lead) 1985
Cave Route Left Hand 7c+ (Lead) 1982
The Vision 7c+ (Lead) 1982
Tequila Mockingbird 7c+ (Lead) May 1982

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116578176465735/116578503132369

Body Machine 7c+ (Lead) 1984

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kwqlYLg9Bic

Mescalito 7c+ (Lead) 1984
Indecent Exposure 7c (Lead) 1982
New Dawn 7c (Lead) 1984
Sardine 7b+ (Lead) 1981

First free ascent.

Climb Grade FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Careless Torque 8A (Boulder) 1987

Ron tried the moves on a rope before jumping from progressively higher up Not to be Taken Away to build up the confidence to commit to the hard upper moves.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/how_was_careless_torque_first_climbed-335185?v=1#x4944420

Toy Boy 7C+ (Boulder) 1986
Climb Grade FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Knockin' on Heaven's Door E9 (Lead) E7

Second ascent? Ron climbed the route in a similar style to the FA and thought it was worth about E7 [1].

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/andy_pollitt+big_ron_fawcett-9483

Strawberries E7 (Lead) April 1980

Ron lead the route in yo-yo style and gave it E5.

https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863216537231&set=a.115862679870618

Eye of the Tiger E7 (Lead) 1982

A great effort considering the time it was done, featuring 7c/+ sport climbing on traditionally protected climbing.

The Master's Edge E7 (Lead) December 1983

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/288281861237996

Moon Madness E7 (Lead) 1987
Slip 'n' Slide E6 (Solo) 1976

One of the boldest routes on grit at the time.

Desperate Dan E6 (Lead) 1978
Milky Way E6 (Lead) 1978
The Cad E6 (Lead) 1978 E5

Ron suggested E5, though he also controversially placed 2 bolts (which were later removed).

Lord of the Flies E6 (Lead) 26th June 1979

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0WlDugUn5cQ

https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115862996537253&set=a.115862679870618

The Big Sleep E6 (Lead) May 1980

https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863256537227&set=a.115862679870618

Wall of Fossils E6 (Lead) May 1980

https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863283203891&set=a.115862679870618

Cave Route Right Hand (Pre 2018) E6 (Lead) 1982
Jasmine E6 (Solo) 1991
Cream Team Special E5 (Alternate Leads) 1976
Supersonic E5 (Lead) 1976
Citadel E5 (Lead) 1978
Crimson Cruiser E5 (Lead) April 1980

https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863506537202&set=a.115862679870618

Hall of Warriors E5 (Lead) 11th April 1980

https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863439870542&set=a.115862679870618

Atomic Hot Rod E5 (Lead) 11th April 1980

https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863403203879&set=a.115862679870618

J.R. E5 (Lead) 12th April 1980

https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863403203879&set=a.115862679870618

Ivory Madonna E5 (Lead) 18th April 1980

https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863383203881&set=a.115862679870618

True Grip E5 (Lead) 19th April 1980

https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863383203881&set=a.115862679870618

Imminent Crisis E5 (Lead) 7th May 1982

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.149994316457454/149994329790786

Ron's Girdle Traverse E5 (Solo Onsight) 1992
Bananas E5 (Lead) April 1980
Cream E4 (Lead) 1976

During a BMC international meet.

Mortlock's Arete E4 (Lead Unknown) 1976

Second ascent.

Mulatto Wall E3 (Lead Unknown) 1971
Problem Wall E2 (Solo Unknown) 1971

Ron's first recorded new route.

Climb Grade FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade