Ron Fawcett

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Climbed in three pitches.

A free ascent covering about 50% of the line of The Prow Routes, approaching from The Prowler and incorporating a new middle section to the right of the original aid route.

The ascent of Britain’s top super route was spread over three days, graded E7 and rated harder than many 5.13s. Lauded in the climbing press as the hardest route in the world. The original (Mecca) and direct starts remained as aid routes.

Jerry Moffatt repeated the route in one day, abseiling off for a whistle-stop brew at the Wriggly Tin Cafe!

The direct start was freed as Revelations in 1984 and the middle section freed as Rage in 1992. Ron’s version was climbed in one pitch in 2003 by Mark Pretty with a final bolt added by Simon Lee to connect to the Crucifixion belay. [1]

References

[1] Peak Limestone North, First Ascents Supplement /file/bc3fd0e4-a3ee-a736-1cbf-d68af9f0910e/peak_lime_north_first_ascents.pdf

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kwqlYLg9Bic

First free ascent.

References

[1] Peak Limestone North, First Ascents Supplement /file/bc3fd0e4-a3ee-a736-1cbf-d68af9f0910e/peak_lime_north_first_ascents.pdf

Ron tried the moves on a rope before jumping from progressively higher up Not to be Taken Away to build up the confidence to commit to the hard upper moves.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/how_was_careless_torque_first_climbed-335185?v=1#x4944420

Ron climbed the route in a similar style to the FA and thought it was worth about E7 [1].

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/andy_pollitt+big_ron_fawcett-9483

Ron lead the route in yo-yo style and gave it E5.

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863216537231&set=a.115862679870618

A great effort considering the time it was done, featuring 7c/+ sport climbing on traditionally protected climbing.

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/288281861237996

One of the boldest routes on grit at the time.

Ron suggested E5, though he also controversially placed 2 bolts (which were later removed).

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C9klRqWtH9S/

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0WlDugUn5cQ

[2] https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115862996537253&set=a.115862679870618

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863283203891&set=a.115862679870618

First free ascent.

References

[1] Mountain 70 (1979), page 21

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863506537202&set=a.115862679870618

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863439870542&set=a.115862679870618

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863403203879&set=a.115862679870618

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863403203879&set=a.115862679870618

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863383203881&set=a.115862679870618

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863383203881&set=a.115862679870618

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.149994316457454/149994329790786

I'd done Positron before and knew I could climb it, but suddenly I was assailed by doubt. I felt my momentum crumble. I knew at once I had to be anywhere but hanging off that flake in the middle of an overhanging wall a hundred feet above the sea. There was just one clear thought looping round my head: 'How the fuck do I get off this?' Could I possibly survive a fall from here? I looked at the sea, sucking in and drawing back from the base of the cliff. If I landed in the sea would I have a chance? Two or three times I bunched up on my footholds, preparing to jump into the great void below me, but each time couldn't commit. Eventually, I scuttled back down, fingers weakening and a rising tide of panic in my chest, to a large spike just above the belay and wrapped both arms around it. And there I stayed, clinging to the spike like a drowning man hugs the spar of a wrecked ship. Slowly the adrenalin subsided and my arms relaxed. I reached the belay and traversed into Rat Race, an easier route, and climbed this instead to its junction with Cordon Bleu, which at VS was easy enough for me to down-climb to the bottom of the main cliff. Positron was soloed, four years later, by Stevie Haston. [1]

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/revisited_ron_fawcett_talks_about_soloing-16330

During a BMC international meet.

References

[1] Mountain 59 (1978), page 51

Ron's first recorded new route.