Ron Fawcett

Quick Info ˅

Nationality:	GB
Date of birth:	6th May 1955
Hardest Boulder (Worked):	8A
Hardest Sport (Worked):	8a+
Hardest Trad (Worked):	E9
Hardest Trad (Onsight):	E5
Notable Partnerships
Pete Livesey

Ron Fawcett was at the top of the UK climbing scene in the mid 70s and early 80s and one of the first professional climbers in the UK. He took up the mantel from climbers such as Pete Livesey and helped cement the E5 and E6 grade in the UK. He also put up some of the early hard sport routes in the UK with lines such as Sardine, Body Machine and The Prow at Raven Tor.

Ron famously climbed 100 extremes (i.e. routes graded E1 or harder on the British Trad grading scale) in a day in 1986 starting at Froggatt then going on to Stanage, Burbage and finishing at Curbar. This feat is even more impressive when you consider that Ron was not just picking the easiest routes available: Downhill Racer (E4), Heartless Hare (E5) and Ulysses or Bust (E5) feature among the hard routes that he climbed. See [3] for a full list.

References

[1] Rock Athlete, by Sid Perou https://youtu.be/tdRfqD125-g?t=1522

[2] Interview with Andy Pollitt https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/andy_pollitt+big_ron_fawcett-9483.

[3] Ticklist of Ron's 100 extremes in a day https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=548

[4] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/282305001835682

Quick Info

Nationality:	GB
Date of birth:	6th May 1955
Hardest Boulder (Worked):	8A
Hardest Sport (Worked):	8a+
Hardest Trad (Worked):	E9
Hardest Trad (Onsight):	E5
Notable Partnerships
Pete Livesey

Ron Fawcett was at the top of the UK climbing scene in the mid 70s and early 80s and one of the first professional climbers in the UK. He took up the mantel from climbers such as Pete Livesey and helped cement the E5 and E6 grade in the UK. He also put up some of the early hard sport routes in the UK with lines such as Sardine, Body Machine and The Prow at Raven Tor.

Ron famously climbed 100 extremes (i.e. routes graded E1 or harder on the British Trad grading scale) in a day in 1986 starting at Froggatt then going on to Stanage, Burbage and finishing at Curbar. This feat is even more impressive when you consider that Ron was not just picking the easiest routes available: Downhill Racer (E4), Heartless Hare (E5) and Ulysses or Bust (E5) feature among the hard routes that he climbed. See [3] for a full list.

References

[1] Rock Athlete, by Sid Perou https://youtu.be/tdRfqD125-g?t=1522

[2] Interview with Andy Pollitt https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/andy_pollitt+big_ron_fawcett-9483.

[3] Ticklist of Ron's 100 extremes in a day https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=548

[4] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/282305001835682

Lists

Pics + Vids

Added at 18:03 on 01 March 2021

Added at 18:08 on 30 August 2021

Lord of the Flies (E6, FA)

Added at 18:12 on 18 December 2020

Body Machine (7c+, FA)

Added at 11:12 on 22 December 2020

The Master's Edge (E7, FA)

Added at 18:03 on 01 March 2021

Lord of the Flies (E6, FA)

Added at 00:03 on 20 March 2021

Strawberries (E7, FA)

Added at 00:03 on 20 March 2021

The Big Sleep (E6, FA)

Added at 00:03 on 20 March 2021

Wall of Fossils (E6, FA)

Added at 00:03 on 20 March 2021

Ivory Madonna (E5, FA)

Added at 00:03 on 20 March 2021

True Grip (E5, FA)

Added at 00:03 on 20 March 2021

J.R. (E5, FA)

Added at 00:03 on 20 March 2021

Atomic Hot Rod (E5, FA)

Added at 00:03 on 20 March 2021

Hall of Warriors (E5, FA)

Added at 01:03 on 20 March 2021

Crimson Cruiser (E5, FA)

Added at 01:03 on 20 March 2021

Supersonic (E5, FA)

Added at 19:02 on 28 February 2021

© Al Evans

https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/the_s...

Bananas (E5)

Added at 08:02 on 05 February 2022

© Alan Stewart

https://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/dbpage.php?id=30...

Ascents

46 recorded ascents.

This timeline is missing some ascents where the date of the ascent is unknown. Use the other tabs to view these ascents.

Year	Climb	Grade	FA	Ascent Date
1971	Mulatto Wall	E3 (Lead Unknown)	✓	1971
	Problem Wall	E2 (Solo Unknown)	✓	1971
	Problem Wall	Ron's first recorded new route.
1972
1973
1974
1975
1976	Cream Team Special	E5 (Alternate Leads)	✓	1976
	Slip 'n' Slide	E6 (Solo)	✓	1976
	Slip 'n' Slide	One of the boldest routes on grit at the time.
	Mortlock's Arete	E4 (Lead Unknown)		1976
	Mortlock's Arete	Second ascent.
	Supersonic	E5 (Lead)	✓	1976
	Cream	E4 (Lead)	✓	1976
	Cream	During a BMC international meet.
1977
1978	Milky Way	E6 (Lead)	✓	1978
	Citadel	E5 (Lead)	✓	1978
	The Cad	E6 (Lead)	✓	1978
	The Cad	Ron suggested E5, though he also controversially placed 2 bolts (which were later removed).
	Desperate Dan	E6 (Lead)	✓	1978
1979	Lord of the Flies	E6 (Lead)	✓	26th June 1979
1979	Lord of the Flies	https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0WlDugUn5cQ https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115862996537253&set=a.115862679870618
1980	Crimson Cruiser	E5 (Lead)	✓	April 1980
	Crimson Cruiser	https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863506537202&set=a.115862679870618
	Strawberries	E7 (Lead)	✓	April 1980
	Strawberries	Ron lead the route in yo-yo style and gave it E5. https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863216537231&set=a.115862679870618
	Bananas	E5 (Lead)		April 1980
	Atomic Hot Rod	E5 (Lead)	✓	11th April 1980
	Atomic Hot Rod	https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863403203879&set=a.115862679870618
	Hall of Warriors	E5 (Lead)	✓	11th April 1980
	Hall of Warriors	https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863439870542&set=a.115862679870618
	J.R.	E5 (Lead)	✓	12th April 1980
	J.R.	https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863403203879&set=a.115862679870618
	Ivory Madonna	E5 (Lead)	✓	18th April 1980
	Ivory Madonna	https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863383203881&set=a.115862679870618
	True Grip	E5 (Lead)	✓	19th April 1980
	True Grip	https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863383203881&set=a.115862679870618
	The Big Sleep	E6 (Lead)	✓	May 1980
	The Big Sleep	https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863256537227&set=a.115862679870618
	Wall of Fossils	E6 (Lead)	✓	May 1980
	Wall of Fossils	https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863283203891&set=a.115862679870618
1981	Sardine	7b+ (Lead)	✓	January 1981
1981	Sardine	First free ascent. References [1] Peak Limestone North, First Ascents Supplement /file/bc3fd0e4-a3ee-a736-1cbf-d68af9f0910e/peak_lime_north_first_ascents.pdf
1982	Cave Route Left Hand	7c+ (Lead)	✓	1982
	The Vision	7c+ (Lead)	✓	1982
	Cave Route Right Hand (Pre 2018)	E6 (Lead)	✓	1982
	Eye of the Tiger	E7 (Lead)	✓	1982
	Eye of the Tiger	A great effort considering the time it was done, featuring 7c/+ sport climbing on traditionally protected climbing.
	Indecent Exposure	7c (Lead)	✓	1982
	Tequila Mockingbird	7c+ (Lead)	✓	May 1982
	Tequila Mockingbird	https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116578176465735/116578503132369
	Imminent Crisis	E5 (Lead)	✓	7th May 1982
	Imminent Crisis	https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.149994316457454/149994329790786
	Yellow Pearls	E5 (Lead Unknown)	✓	July 1982
	The Prow	8a (Lead)	✓	Between 1st Jul. 1982 and 1st Aug. 1983
	The Prow	Climbed in three pitches. A free ascent covering about 50% of the line of The Prow Routes, approaching from The Prowler and incorporating a new middle section to the right of the original aid route. The ascent of Britain’s top super route was spread over three days, graded E7 and rated harder than many 5.13s. Lauded in the climbing press as the hardest route in the world. The original (Mecca) and direct starts remained as aid routes. Jerry Moffatt repeated the route in one day, abseiling off for a whistle-stop brew at the Wriggly Tin Cafe! The direct start was freed as Revelations in 1984 and the middle section freed as Rage in 1992. Ron’s version was climbed in one pitch in 2003 by Mark Pretty with a final bolt added by Simon Lee to connect to the Crucifixion belay. [1] References [1] Peak Limestone North, First Ascents Supplement /file/bc3fd0e4-a3ee-a736-1cbf-d68af9f0910e/peak_lime_north_first_ascents.pdf
1983	Central Pillar	8a (Lead)	✓	July 1983
	The Master's Edge	E7 (Lead)	✓	December 1983
	The Master's Edge	https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/288281861237996
1984	Mescalito	7c+ (Lead)	✓	1984
	Defcon 3	8a (Lead)	✓	1984
	Body Machine	7c+ (Lead)	✓	1984
	Body Machine	https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kwqlYLg9Bic
	Revelations (Pre-1999)	8a+ (Lead)		1984
	New Dawn	7c (Lead)	✓	1984
1985	Zoolook	8a (Lead)	✓	1985
1986	Toy Boy	7C+ (Boulder)	✓	1986
1987	Careless Torque	8A (Boulder)	✓	1987
	Careless Torque	Ron tried the moves on a rope before jumping from progressively higher up Not to be Taken Away to build up the confidence to commit to the hard upper moves. https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/how_was_careless_torque_first_climbed-335185?v=1#x4944420
	Moon Madness	E7 (Lead)	✓	1987
1988
1989
1990
1991	Jasmine	E6 (Solo)	✓	1991
1992	Ron's Girdle Traverse	E5 (Solo Onsight)	✓	1992
1993

Climb	Grade	FA	Ascent Date	Suggested Grade
Revelations (Pre-1999)	8a+ (Lead)		1984
The Prow	8a (Lead)	✓	Between 1st Jul. 1982 and 1st Aug. 1983
The Prow	Climbed in three pitches. A free ascent covering about 50% of the line of The Prow Routes, approaching from The Prowler and incorporating a new middle section to the right of the original aid route. The ascent of Britain’s top super route was spread over three days, graded E7 and rated harder than many 5.13s. Lauded in the climbing press as the hardest route in the world. The original (Mecca) and direct starts remained as aid routes. Jerry Moffatt repeated the route in one day, abseiling off for a whistle-stop brew at the Wriggly Tin Cafe! The direct start was freed as Revelations in 1984 and the middle section freed as Rage in 1992. Ron’s version was climbed in one pitch in 2003 by Mark Pretty with a final bolt added by Simon Lee to connect to the Crucifixion belay. [1] References [1] Peak Limestone North, First Ascents Supplement /file/bc3fd0e4-a3ee-a736-1cbf-d68af9f0910e/peak_lime_north_first_ascents.pdf
Central Pillar	8a (Lead)	✓	July 1983
Defcon 3	8a (Lead)	✓	1984
Zoolook	8a (Lead)	✓	1985
Cave Route Left Hand	7c+ (Lead)	✓	1982
The Vision	7c+ (Lead)	✓	1982
Tequila Mockingbird	7c+ (Lead)	✓	May 1982
Tequila Mockingbird	https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116578176465735/116578503132369
Body Machine	7c+ (Lead)	✓	1984
Body Machine	https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kwqlYLg9Bic
Mescalito	7c+ (Lead)	✓	1984
Indecent Exposure	7c (Lead)	✓	1982
New Dawn	7c (Lead)	✓	1984
Sardine	7b+ (Lead)	✓	January 1981
Sardine	First free ascent. References [1] Peak Limestone North, First Ascents Supplement /file/bc3fd0e4-a3ee-a736-1cbf-d68af9f0910e/peak_lime_north_first_ascents.pdf

Climb

Grade

FA

Ascent Date

Suggested Grade

Careless Torque

8A (Boulder)

✓

1987

Ron tried the moves on a rope before jumping from progressively higher up Not to be Taken Away to build up the confidence to commit to the hard upper moves.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/how_was_careless_torque_first_climbed-335185?v=1#x4944420

7C+ (Boulder)

✓

1986

Climb	Grade	FA	Ascent Date	Suggested Grade
Knockin' on Heaven's Door	E9 (Lead)			E7
Knockin' on Heaven's Door	Second ascent? Ron climbed the route in a similar style to the FA and thought it was worth about E7 [1]. [1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/andy_pollitt+big_ron_fawcett-9483
Strawberries	E7 (Lead)	✓	April 1980
Strawberries	Ron lead the route in yo-yo style and gave it E5. https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863216537231&set=a.115862679870618
Eye of the Tiger	E7 (Lead)	✓	1982
Eye of the Tiger	A great effort considering the time it was done, featuring 7c/+ sport climbing on traditionally protected climbing.
The Master's Edge	E7 (Lead)	✓	December 1983
The Master's Edge	https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/288281861237996
Moon Madness	E7 (Lead)	✓	1987
Slip 'n' Slide	E6 (Solo)	✓	1976
Slip 'n' Slide	One of the boldest routes on grit at the time.
The Cad	E6 (Lead)	✓	1978	E5
The Cad	Ron suggested E5, though he also controversially placed 2 bolts (which were later removed).
Desperate Dan	E6 (Lead)	✓	1978
Milky Way	E6 (Lead)	✓	1978
Lord of the Flies	E6 (Lead)	✓	26th June 1979
Lord of the Flies	https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0WlDugUn5cQ https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115862996537253&set=a.115862679870618
The Big Sleep	E6 (Lead)	✓	May 1980
The Big Sleep	https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863256537227&set=a.115862679870618
Wall of Fossils	E6 (Lead)	✓	May 1980
Wall of Fossils	https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863283203891&set=a.115862679870618
Cave Route Right Hand (Pre 2018)	E6 (Lead)	✓	1982
Jasmine	E6 (Solo)	✓	1991
Cream Team Special	E5 (Alternate Leads)	✓	1976
Supersonic	E5 (Lead)	✓	1976
Citadel	E5 (Lead)	✓	1978
Crimson Cruiser	E5 (Lead)	✓	April 1980
Crimson Cruiser	https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863506537202&set=a.115862679870618
Atomic Hot Rod	E5 (Lead)	✓	11th April 1980
Atomic Hot Rod	https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863403203879&set=a.115862679870618
Hall of Warriors	E5 (Lead)	✓	11th April 1980
Hall of Warriors	https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863439870542&set=a.115862679870618
J.R.	E5 (Lead)	✓	12th April 1980
J.R.	https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863403203879&set=a.115862679870618
Ivory Madonna	E5 (Lead)	✓	18th April 1980
Ivory Madonna	https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863383203881&set=a.115862679870618
True Grip	E5 (Lead)	✓	19th April 1980
True Grip	https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863383203881&set=a.115862679870618
Imminent Crisis	E5 (Lead)	✓	7th May 1982
Imminent Crisis	https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.149994316457454/149994329790786
Yellow Pearls	E5 (Lead Unknown)	✓	July 1982
Ron's Girdle Traverse	E5 (Solo Onsight)	✓	1992
Bananas	E5 (Lead)		April 1980
Cream	E4 (Lead)	✓	1976
Cream	During a BMC international meet.
Mortlock's Arete	E4 (Lead Unknown)		1976
Mortlock's Arete	Second ascent.
Mulatto Wall	E3 (Lead Unknown)	✓	1971	E3
Problem Wall	E2 (Solo Unknown)	✓	1971
Problem Wall	Ron's first recorded new route.

Climb	Grade	FA	Ascent Date	Suggested Grade