Ron Fawcett

en.wikipedia.org

Quick Info

From: United Kingdom 🇬🇧
Date of birth: 6th May 1955
Age: 70 years old
Gender: Male
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8A
Hardest Sport (Worked): 8a+
Hardest Trad (Worked): E9
Hardest Trad (Onsight): E5
Notable Partnerships
Pete Livesey

Ron Fawcett was at the top of the UK climbing scene in the mid 70s and early 80s and one of the first professional climbers in the UK. He took up the mantel from climbers such as Pete Livesey and helped cement the E5 and E6 grade in the UK. He also put up some of the early hard sport routes in the UK with lines such as Sardine, Body Machine and The Prow at Raven Tor.

Ron famously climbed 100 extremes (i.e. routes graded E1 or harder on the British Trad grading scale) in a day in 1986 starting at Froggatt then going on to Stanage, Burbage and finishing at Curbar. This feat is even more impressive when you consider that Ron was not just picking the easiest routes available: Downhill Racer (E4), Heartless Hare (E5) and Ulysses or Bust (E5) feature among the hard routes that he climbed. See [3] for a full list.

References

[1] Rock Athlete, by Sid Perou https://youtu.be/tdRfqD125-g?t=1522

[2] Interview with Andy Pollitt https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/andy_pollitt+big_ron_fawcett-9483.

[3] Ticklist of Ron's 100 extremes in a day https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=548

[4] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/282305001835682

Contributors
45 contributions since 21st February 2021.

Quick Info

From: United Kingdom 🇬🇧
Date of birth: 6th May 1955
Age: 70 years old
Gender: Male
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8A
Hardest Sport (Worked): 8a+
Hardest Trad (Worked): E9
Hardest Trad (Onsight): E5
Notable Partnerships
Pete Livesey

Ron Fawcett was at the top of the UK climbing scene in the mid 70s and early 80s and one of the first professional climbers in the UK. He took up the mantel from climbers such as Pete Livesey and helped cement the E5 and E6 grade in the UK. He also put up some of the early hard sport routes in the UK with lines such as Sardine, Body Machine and The Prow at Raven Tor.

Ron famously climbed 100 extremes (i.e. routes graded E1 or harder on the British Trad grading scale) in a day in 1986 starting at Froggatt then going on to Stanage, Burbage and finishing at Curbar. This feat is even more impressive when you consider that Ron was not just picking the easiest routes available: Downhill Racer (E4), Heartless Hare (E5) and Ulysses or Bust (E5) feature among the hard routes that he climbed. See [3] for a full list.

References

[1] Rock Athlete, by Sid Perou https://youtu.be/tdRfqD125-g?t=1522

[2] Interview with Andy Pollitt https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/andy_pollitt+big_ron_fawcett-9483.

[3] Ticklist of Ron's 100 extremes in a day https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=548

[4] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/282305001835682

Contributors
45 contributions since 21st February 2021.

Lists

Library

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Ascents

58 recorded ascents.

This timeline is missing some ascents where the date of the ascent is unknown.
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Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Revelations (Pre-1999) 8a+ Lead | worked 1984
The Prow 8a Lead | worked Jul 1982
First ascent.

Climbed in three pitches.

A free ascent covering about 50% of the line of The Prow Routes, approaching from The Prowler and incorporating a new middle section to the right of the original aid route.

The ascent of Britain’s top super route was spread over three days, graded E7 and rated harder than many 5.13s. Lauded in the climbing press as the hardest route in the world. The original (Mecca) and direct starts remained as aid routes.

Jerry Moffatt repeated the route in one day, abseiling off for a whistle-stop brew at the Wriggly Tin Cafe!

The direct start was freed as Revelations in 1984 and the middle section freed as Rage in 1992. Ron’s version was climbed in one pitch in 2003 by Mark Pretty with a final bolt added by Simon Lee to connect to the Crucifixion belay. [1]

References

[1] Peak Limestone North, First Ascents Supplement /file/bc3fd0e4-a3ee-a736-1cbf-d68af9f0910e/peak_lime_north_first_ascents.pdf
Central Pillar 8a Lead | worked Jul 1983
First ascent.
Defcon 3 8a Lead | worked 1984
First ascent.
Zoolook 8a Lead | worked 1985
First ascent.
The Vision 7c+ Lead | worked 1982
First ascent.
Tequila Mockingbird 7c+ Lead | yo-yo May 1982 E6
First ascent.
Body Machine 7c+ Lead | worked 1984
First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kwqlYLg9Bic
Mescalito 7c+ Lead | worked 1984
First ascent.
Indecent Exposure 7c Lead | worked 1982
First ascent.
New Dawn 7c Lead | worked 1984
First ascent.
Sardine 7b+ Lead | worked Jan 1981
First ascent.

First free ascent.

References

[1] Peak Limestone North, First Ascents Supplement /file/bc3fd0e4-a3ee-a736-1cbf-d68af9f0910e/peak_lime_north_first_ascents.pdf
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Careless Torque 8A Boulder | worked 1987
First ascent.

Ron tried the moves on a rope before jumping from progressively higher up Not to be Taken Away to build up the confidence to commit to the hard upper moves.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/how_was_careless_torque_first_climbed-335185?v=1#x4944420
Toy Boy 7C+ Boulder | worked 1986
First ascent.
Neon Dust Direct 7C+ Solo 1986
First ascent.
Ron's Crack II 7A+ Boulder | worked 1974
First ascent.
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Knockin' on Heaven's Door E9 Lead | worked Between 2nd Mar 1988 and 20th Mar 1994 E7
Second ascent?

Ron climbed the route in a similar style to the FA and thought it was worth about E7 [1].

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/andy_pollitt+big_ron_fawcett-9483
Strawberries E7 Lead | yo-yo Between 22nd Mar 1980 and 23rd Mar 1980
First ascent.

Ron lead the route in yo-yo style and gave it E5.

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863216537231&set=a.115862679870618
Eye of the Tiger E7 Lead | worked 1982
First ascent.

A great effort considering the time it was done, featuring 7c/+ sport climbing on traditionally protected climbing.
The Master's Edge E7 Lead | worked Dec 1983
First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/288281861237996
Moon Madness E7 Lead | worked 1987
First ascent.
Slip 'n' Slide E6 Solo | worked 1976
First ascent.

One of the boldest routes on grit at the time.
Crème de la Crème E6 Lead 1977
First ascent.
Milky Way E6 Lead | worked 1978
First ascent.
Desperate Dan E6 Lead | worked 1978
First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C9klRqWtH9S/
The Cad E6 Lead | worked 1978 E5
First ascent.

Ron suggested E5, though he also controversially placed 2 bolts (which were later removed).
Lord of the Flies E6 Lead | worked 26th Jun 1979
First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0WlDugUn5cQ

[2] https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115862996537253&set=a.115862679870618
Wall of Fossils E6 Lead | worked May 1980
First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863283203891&set=a.115862679870618
The Big Sleep E6 Lead | worked May 1980
First ascent.
Cave Route Right Hand (Pre-2018) E6 Lead | worked 1982
First ascent.
Cave Route Left Hand (Pre-2012) E6 Lead | worked 1982
First ascent.
Jasmine E6 Solo | worked 1991
First ascent.
Cream Team Special E5 Alternate Leads | worked 1976
First ascent.
Supersonic E5 Lead | worked 1976
First ascent.
Right Wall E5 Lead | onsight 1976
Second ascent.
Darkinbad the Brightdayler E5 Lead 1976

First free ascent.
Citadel E5 Lead | worked 1978
First ascent.
Doubting Thomas E5 Lead | worked 1979
First ascent. First free ascent.

References

[1] Mountain 70 (1979), page 21
Crimson Cruiser E5 Lead | worked Apr 1980
First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863506537202&set=a.115862679870618
Bananas E5 Lead | worked Apr 1980
Atomic Hot Rod E5 Lead | worked 11th Apr 1980
First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863403203879&set=a.115862679870618
Hall of Warriors E5 Lead | worked 11th Apr 1980
First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863439870542&set=a.115862679870618
J.R. E5 Lead | worked 12th Apr 1980
First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863403203879&set=a.115862679870618
Ivory Madonna E5 Lead | worked 18th Apr 1980
First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863383203881&set=a.115862679870618
True Grip E5 Lead | worked 19th Apr 1980
First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863383203881&set=a.115862679870618
Imminent Crisis E5 Lead | worked 7th May 1982
First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.149994316457454/149994329790786
Yellow Pearls E5 Lead Jul 1982
First ascent.
Ron's Girdle Traverse E5 Solo | onsight 1992
First ascent.
Positron E5 Solo | did not finish

I'd done Positron before and knew I could climb it, but suddenly I was assailed by doubt. I felt my momentum crumble. I knew at once I had to be anywhere but hanging off that flake in the middle of an overhanging wall a hundred feet above the sea. There was just one clear thought looping round my head: 'How the fuck do I get off this?' Could I possibly survive a fall from here? I looked at the sea, sucking in and drawing back from the base of the cliff. If I landed in the sea would I have a chance? Two or three times I bunched up on my footholds, preparing to jump into the great void below me, but each time couldn't commit. Eventually, I scuttled back down, fingers weakening and a rising tide of panic in my chest, to a large spike just above the belay and wrapped both arms around it. And there I stayed, clinging to the spike like a drowning man hugs the spar of a wrecked ship. Slowly the adrenalin subsided and my arms relaxed. I reached the belay and traversed into Rat Race, an easier route, and climbed this instead to its junction with Cordon Bleu, which at VS was easy enough for me to down-climb to the bottom of the main cliff. Positron was soloed, four years later, by Stevie Haston. [1]

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/revisited_ron_fawcett_talks_about_soloing-16330
Slender Loris E4 Lead 1973
First ascent. 1 point of aid.
Mortlock's Arete E4 Lead 1976
Second ascent.
Cream E4 Lead | worked 1976
First ascent.

During a BMC international meet.
Slender Loris E4 Lead | worked 1979
First free ascent.
Great Wall E4 Lead Before 1st Jan 1979
Second ascent. With Pete Gomersall.

References

[1] Mountain 59 (1978), page 51
Mulatto Wall E3 Lead 1971 E3
First ascent.
Problem Wall E2 Solo 1971
First ascent.

Ron's first recorded new route.
Bow Wall E2 Solo 1978
Carnage E2 Lead 1979
First ascent.
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade