Nationality: | GB |
Date of birth: | 6th May 1955 |
Hardest Boulder (Worked): | 8A |
Hardest Sport (Worked): | 8a+ |
Hardest Trad (Worked): | E9 |
Hardest Trad (Onsight): | E5 |
Notable Partnerships | |
Pete Livesey |
Ron Fawcett was at the top of the UK climbing scene in the mid 70s and early 80s and one of the first professional climbers in the UK. He took up the mantel from climbers such as Pete Livesey and helped cement the E5 and E6 grade in the UK. He also put up some of the early hard sport routes in the UK with lines such as Sardine, Body Machine and The Prow at Raven Tor.
Ron famously climbed 100 extremes (i.e. routes graded E1 or harder on the British Trad grading scale) in a day in 1986 starting at Froggatt then going on to Stanage, Burbage and finishing at Curbar. This feat is even more impressive when you consider that Ron was not just picking the easiest routes available: Downhill Racer (E4), Heartless Hare (E5) and Ulysses or Bust (E5) feature among the hard routes that he climbed. See [3] for a full list.
[1] Rock Athlete, by Sid Perou https://youtu.be/tdRfqD125-g?t=1522
[2] Interview with Andy Pollitt https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/andy_pollitt+big_ron_fawcett-9483.
[3] Ticklist of Ron's 100 extremes in a day https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=548
[4] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/282305001835682
50 recorded ascents.
Year | Climb | Grade | Style | Date |
---|---|---|---|---|
1971 | Mulatto Wall | E3 | Lead | 1971 |
First ascent.
|
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Problem Wall | E2 | Solo | 1971 | |
First ascent.
Ron's first recorded new route. |
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1972 | ||||
1973 | ||||
1974 | ||||
1975 | ||||
1976 | Slip 'n' Slide | E6 | Solo | worked | 1976 |
First ascent.
One of the boldest routes on grit at the time. |
||||
Cream Team Special | E5 | Alternate Leads | worked | 1976 | |
First ascent.
|
||||
Supersonic | E5 | Lead | worked | 1976 | |
First ascent.
|
||||
Darkinbad the Brightdayler | E5 | Lead | 1976 | |
First free ascent. |
||||
Cream | E4 | Lead | worked | 1976 | |
First ascent.
During a BMC international meet. |
||||
Mortlock's Arete | E4 | Lead | 1976 | |
Second ascent.
|
||||
1977 | Crème de la Crème | E6 | Lead | 1977 |
First ascent.
|
||||
1978 | Desperate Dan | E6 | Lead | worked | 1978 |
First ascent.
References |
||||
Milky Way | E6 | Lead | worked | 1978 | |
First ascent.
|
||||
The Cad | E6 | Lead | worked | 1978 | |
First ascent.
Ron suggested E5, though he also controversially placed 2 bolts (which were later removed). |
||||
Citadel | E5 | Lead | worked | 1978 | |
First ascent.
|
||||
Bow Wall | E2 | Solo | 1978 | |
1979 | Carnage | E2 | Lead | 1979 |
First ascent.
|
||||
Lord of the Flies | E6 | Lead | worked | 26th Jun 1979 | |
1980 | Strawberries | E7 | Lead | yo-yo | Between 22nd Mar 1980 and 23rd Mar 1980 |
First ascent.
Ron lead the route in yo-yo style and gave it E5. References[1] https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863216537231&set=a.115862679870618 |
||||
Crimson Cruiser | E5 | Lead | worked | Apr 1980 | |
First ascent.
References[1] https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863506537202&set=a.115862679870618 |
||||
Bananas | E5 | Lead | worked | Apr 1980 | |
Hall of Warriors | E5 | Lead | worked | 11th Apr 1980 | |
First ascent.
References[1] https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863439870542&set=a.115862679870618 |
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Atomic Hot Rod | E5 | Lead | worked | 11th Apr 1980 | |
First ascent.
References[1] https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863403203879&set=a.115862679870618 |
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J.R. | E5 | Lead | worked | 12th Apr 1980 | |
First ascent.
References[1] https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863403203879&set=a.115862679870618 |
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Ivory Madonna | E5 | Lead | worked | 18th Apr 1980 | |
First ascent.
References[1] https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863383203881&set=a.115862679870618 |
||||
True Grip | E5 | Lead | worked | 19th Apr 1980 | |
First ascent.
References[1] https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863383203881&set=a.115862679870618 |
||||
Wall of Fossils | E6 | Lead | worked | May 1980 | |
First ascent.
References[1] https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863283203891&set=a.115862679870618 |
||||
The Big Sleep | E6 | Lead | worked | May 1980 | |
First ascent.
|
||||
1981 | Sardine | 7b+ | Lead | worked | Jan 1981 |
First ascent.
First free ascent. References[1] Peak Limestone North, First Ascents Supplement /file/bc3fd0e4-a3ee-a736-1cbf-d68af9f0910e/peak_lime_north_first_ascents.pdf |
||||
1982 | Eye of the Tiger | E7 | Lead | worked | 1982 |
First ascent.
A great effort considering the time it was done, featuring 7c/+ sport climbing on traditionally protected climbing. |
||||
Cave Route Right Hand (Pre 2018) | E6 | Lead | worked | 1982 | |
First ascent.
|
||||
Cave Route Left Hand | 7c+ | Lead | worked | 1982 | |
First ascent.
|
||||
The Vision | 7c+ | Lead | worked | 1982 | |
First ascent.
|
||||
Indecent Exposure | 7c | Lead | worked | 1982 | |
First ascent.
|
||||
Tequila Mockingbird | 7c+ | Lead | yo-yo | May 1982 | |
First ascent.
|
||||
Imminent Crisis | E5 | Lead | worked | 7th May 1982 | |
First ascent.
References[1] https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.149994316457454/149994329790786 |
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Yellow Pearls | E5 | Lead | Jul 1982 | |
First ascent.
|
||||
The Prow | 8a | Lead | worked | Jul 1982 | |
First ascent.
Climbed in three pitches.
References[1] Peak Limestone North, First Ascents Supplement /file/bc3fd0e4-a3ee-a736-1cbf-d68af9f0910e/peak_lime_north_first_ascents.pdf |
||||
1983 | Central Pillar | 8a | Lead | worked | Jul 1983 |
First ascent.
|
||||
The Master's Edge | E7 | Lead | worked | Dec 1983 | |
First ascent.
References[1] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/288281861237996 |
||||
1984 | Revelations (Pre-1999) | 8a+ | Lead | worked | 1984 |
Defcon 3 | 8a | Lead | worked | 1984 | |
First ascent.
|
||||
Body Machine | 7c+ | Lead | worked | 1984 | |
First ascent.
References |
||||
Mescalito | 7c+ | Lead | worked | 1984 | |
First ascent.
|
||||
New Dawn | 7c | Lead | worked | 1984 | |
First ascent.
|
||||
1985 | Zoolook | 8a | Lead | worked | 1985 |
First ascent.
|
||||
1986 | Toy Boy | 7C+ | Boulder | worked | 1986 |
First ascent.
|
||||
1987 | Moon Madness | E7 | Lead | worked | 1987 |
First ascent.
|
||||
Careless Torque | 8A | Boulder | worked | 1987 | |
First ascent.
Ron tried the moves on a rope before jumping from progressively higher up Not to be Taken Away to build up the confidence to commit to the hard upper moves. References |
||||
1988 | Knockin' on Heaven's Door | E9 | Lead | worked | Between 2nd Mar 1988 and 20th Mar 1994 |
Second ascent?
Ron climbed the route in a similar style to the FA and thought it was worth about E7 [1]. References[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/andy_pollitt+big_ron_fawcett-9483 |
||||
1989 | ||||
1990 | ||||
1991 | Jasmine | E6 | Solo | worked | 1991 |
First ascent.
|
||||
1992 | Ron's Girdle Traverse | E5 | Solo | onsight | 1992 |
First ascent.
|
Climb | Grade | Style | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
---|---|---|---|---|
Revelations (Pre-1999) | 8a+ | Lead | worked | 1984 | |
The Prow | 8a | Lead | worked | Jul 1982 | |
First ascent.
Climbed in three pitches.
References[1] Peak Limestone North, First Ascents Supplement /file/bc3fd0e4-a3ee-a736-1cbf-d68af9f0910e/peak_lime_north_first_ascents.pdf |
||||
Central Pillar | 8a | Lead | worked | Jul 1983 | |
First ascent.
|
||||
Defcon 3 | 8a | Lead | worked | 1984 | |
First ascent.
|
||||
Zoolook | 8a | Lead | worked | 1985 | |
First ascent.
|
||||
Cave Route Left Hand | 7c+ | Lead | worked | 1982 | |
First ascent.
|
||||
The Vision | 7c+ | Lead | worked | 1982 | |
First ascent.
|
||||
Tequila Mockingbird | 7c+ | Lead | yo-yo | May 1982 | E6 |
First ascent.
|
||||
Body Machine | 7c+ | Lead | worked | 1984 | |
First ascent.
References |
||||
Mescalito | 7c+ | Lead | worked | 1984 | |
First ascent.
|
||||
Indecent Exposure | 7c | Lead | worked | 1982 | |
First ascent.
|
||||
New Dawn | 7c | Lead | worked | 1984 | |
First ascent.
|
||||
Sardine | 7b+ | Lead | worked | Jan 1981 | |
First ascent.
First free ascent. References[1] Peak Limestone North, First Ascents Supplement /file/bc3fd0e4-a3ee-a736-1cbf-d68af9f0910e/peak_lime_north_first_ascents.pdf |
Climb | Grade | Style | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
---|---|---|---|---|
Careless Torque | 8A | Boulder | worked | 1987 | |
First ascent.
Ron tried the moves on a rope before jumping from progressively higher up Not to be Taken Away to build up the confidence to commit to the hard upper moves. References |
||||
Toy Boy | 7C+ | Boulder | worked | 1986 | |
First ascent.
|
Climb | Grade | Style | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
---|---|---|---|---|
Knockin' on Heaven's Door | E9 | Lead | worked | Between 2nd Mar 1988 and 20th Mar 1994 | E7 |
Second ascent?
Ron climbed the route in a similar style to the FA and thought it was worth about E7 [1]. References[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/andy_pollitt+big_ron_fawcett-9483 |
||||
Strawberries | E7 | Lead | yo-yo | Between 22nd Mar 1980 and 23rd Mar 1980 | |
First ascent.
Ron lead the route in yo-yo style and gave it E5. References[1] https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863216537231&set=a.115862679870618 |
||||
Eye of the Tiger | E7 | Lead | worked | 1982 | |
First ascent.
A great effort considering the time it was done, featuring 7c/+ sport climbing on traditionally protected climbing. |
||||
The Master's Edge | E7 | Lead | worked | Dec 1983 | |
First ascent.
References[1] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/288281861237996 |
||||
Moon Madness | E7 | Lead | worked | 1987 | |
First ascent.
|
||||
Slip 'n' Slide | E6 | Solo | worked | 1976 | |
First ascent.
One of the boldest routes on grit at the time. |
||||
Crème de la Crème | E6 | Lead | 1977 | |
First ascent.
|
||||
Desperate Dan | E6 | Lead | worked | 1978 | |
First ascent.
References |
||||
Milky Way | E6 | Lead | worked | 1978 | |
First ascent.
|
||||
The Cad | E6 | Lead | worked | 1978 | E5 |
First ascent.
Ron suggested E5, though he also controversially placed 2 bolts (which were later removed). |
||||
Lord of the Flies | E6 | Lead | worked | 26th Jun 1979 | |
Wall of Fossils | E6 | Lead | worked | May 1980 | |
First ascent.
References[1] https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863283203891&set=a.115862679870618 |
||||
The Big Sleep | E6 | Lead | worked | May 1980 | |
First ascent.
|
||||
Cave Route Right Hand (Pre 2018) | E6 | Lead | worked | 1982 | |
First ascent.
|
||||
Jasmine | E6 | Solo | worked | 1991 | |
First ascent.
|
||||
Cream Team Special | E5 | Alternate Leads | worked | 1976 | |
First ascent.
|
||||
Supersonic | E5 | Lead | worked | 1976 | |
First ascent.
|
||||
Citadel | E5 | Lead | worked | 1978 | |
First ascent.
|
||||
Crimson Cruiser | E5 | Lead | worked | Apr 1980 | |
First ascent.
References[1] https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863506537202&set=a.115862679870618 |
||||
Hall of Warriors | E5 | Lead | worked | 11th Apr 1980 | |
First ascent.
References[1] https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863439870542&set=a.115862679870618 |
||||
Atomic Hot Rod | E5 | Lead | worked | 11th Apr 1980 | |
First ascent.
References[1] https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863403203879&set=a.115862679870618 |
||||
J.R. | E5 | Lead | worked | 12th Apr 1980 | |
First ascent.
References[1] https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863403203879&set=a.115862679870618 |
||||
Ivory Madonna | E5 | Lead | worked | 18th Apr 1980 | |
First ascent.
References[1] https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863383203881&set=a.115862679870618 |
||||
True Grip | E5 | Lead | worked | 19th Apr 1980 | |
First ascent.
References[1] https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863383203881&set=a.115862679870618 |
||||
Imminent Crisis | E5 | Lead | worked | 7th May 1982 | |
First ascent.
References[1] https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.149994316457454/149994329790786 |
||||
Yellow Pearls | E5 | Lead | Jul 1982 | |
First ascent.
|
||||
Ron's Girdle Traverse | E5 | Solo | onsight | 1992 | |
First ascent.
|
||||
Darkinbad the Brightdayler | E5 | Lead | 1976 | |
First free ascent. |
||||
Bananas | E5 | Lead | worked | Apr 1980 | |
Cream | E4 | Lead | worked | 1976 | |
First ascent.
During a BMC international meet. |
||||
Mortlock's Arete | E4 | Lead | 1976 | |
Second ascent.
|
||||
Mulatto Wall | E3 | Lead | 1971 | E3 |
First ascent.
|
||||
Problem Wall | E2 | Solo | 1971 | |
First ascent.
Ron's first recorded new route. |
||||
Carnage | E2 | Lead | 1979 | |
First ascent.
|
||||
Bow Wall | E2 | Solo | 1978 |
Climb | Grade | Style | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
---|