Ben Heason

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References

[1] A record of ground-up and on-sight climbing on Peak, Yorkshire and Lancashire gritstone

[2] On The Edge Issue 92, page 11

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 90, page 10

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 90, page 66

Early 2000s. Possibly the first repeat via a right hand line, which has become a popular solution to the slab since the demise of a pebble.

Eliminating the crack the and the gear

References

[1] On The Edge 115, page 43.

References

[1] A record of ground-up and on-sight climbing on Peak, Yorkshire and Lancashire gritstone

References

[1] A record of ground-up and on-sight climbing on Peak, Yorkshire and Lancashire gritstone

Not having the necessary time or equipment to search out potential new lines Ben contented himself with some impressive boltless ascents (solo’s due to the lack of natural protection) of some existing routes. The more impressive routes soloed were: -Little Ling 18(On Sight) A serious, extremely tenuous slab, solid E6 6a. Dr Squat 22 (On Sight) A bouldery start followed by a perplexing top out, E6 6b. Nether Edge 21 (On Sight). This mega classic soaring arête, first climbed by the legendary gritstone master John Allen way back in 1979, proved to be a scarily technical E7 6b. Suicide by Hallucination 26 (Flash). Equating to a French 7b+ sport route, this sustained wall climb has a heinous crux at about 8 or 9m, followed by sustained 6a climbing, with a 6b move to reach the slopey top. Hard E7 6c.

References

[1] https://www.climbing.de/news/heason-hits-new-zealand-40570.html

Like many of Ben’s hardest ascents from this period, there were no witnesses. Controversy ensued.

On the same day Ben also soloed every other route on the slab, only missing out on Toy Boy.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2004/01/heason_adds_new_e9_to_froggatt-9871

References

[1] https://tedkingsnorth.blogspot.com/2022/04/attraverso-il-pesce.html

The same day as belaying Miles Gibson on the first ascent of Dangermouse.

References

[1] https://vimeo.com/6880357

[2] https://www.climbing.com/news/gritstone-action-at-uks-wimberry-rocks/

References

[1] https://vimeo.com/10589082

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2010/04/ben_heason_repeats_meshuga_-_e9_6c-52764