Julian Lines

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Prior to making the first ascent Jules took a very spicy fall, fortunately he walked away unscathed.

It's a world class solo for sure. Grade wise I thought it to be around 8a/8a+ with the direct finish though do not do an awful lot of sport climbing, the top section is a grade easier than the lower section but obviously way higher and so puts at least half an E-grade on top of the lower E9 section. I'm really pleased to have finally done it, for me to climb it everything had to come together as I'm not as strong as Macleod or Birkett who can power their way out of trouble.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tWK1fkBqB1Q

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/06/julian_lines_climbs_hold_fast_hold_true_-_e910-68145

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FzDKXm4zXYM

References

[1] SMCJ Number 208 – Vol 45 - 2017

Jules fell off the route before making the first ascent but, miraculously, walked away unharmed.

I hadn't a piece of gear below me for 100ft. worthy of holding a dead pheasant, so I switch off and rush at the final 6a slab in the drizzle without care. I heave onto the belay and sit on my throne, regal, my mind lost in a world of chaos and aspirations - the Icon of Lust set in stone forever. [1]

References

[1] SMCJ Number 197 - Vol 39 - 2006

References

[1] Stone Free

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 71, page 73

References

[1] SMCJ Number 199 – Vol 40- 2008

References

[1] https://open.spotify.com/episode/21db9kyVWBHwdBYzrTfMEK

With Brian Davison

A wild effort, featuring hard committing climbing in an extremely remote location.

References

[1] SMCJ Number 198 - Vol 39 - 2007

[2] Stone Free

[3] https://open.spotify.com/episode/2Ck8gL8NKMb2FKvXE2OGNP

References

[1] SMCJ Number 202 – Vol 41 - 2011

[Julian] then confirmed what anyone who has climbed with him over the last few years already knows, which is that he is one of the boldest (craziest?) climbers of his generation, when he on-sight soloed a new 100m E5 5c line Forge next to Anvil.

References

[1] Gary Latter, 'Scottish Rock: Volume 1'

It started raining during the first ascent, pushing Julian much closer to the edge than he would have liked.

References

[1] Stone Free

[2] SMCJ Number 198 - Vol 39 - 2007

References

[1] SMCJ Number 205 – Vol 43 - 2014

References

[1] SMCJ Number 202 – Vol 41 - 2011

First dws ascent.