Rodney Mullen | E8 Trad climb at Ilkley Rocky Valley

First ascent. Pre-placed gear.

Sean pre-placed a peg by hand to protect the first ascent. [1] This led to some controversy and the route was not recorded in the subsequent guide. Sean re-climbed it in 1999 hand-placing the peg on lead.

Sean summarises a double page spread of ranting in On The Edge Issue 98:

I can't believe you didn't put Rodney in the bloody guide! [1]

Dave Thomas, who belayed Sean when he re-climbed it:

...no shenanigans, and peg placed on lead. He did hammer it in though - with the palm of his hand ;D

Bit of a nasty rope burn on his calf when he fell off, but peg stayed. Taken out, and then re-placed on lead IIRC. [2]

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 98, page 88

[2] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10464.msg638259.html#msg638259

[3] On The Edge Issue 92, page 11

References

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,31049.msg625211.html#msg625211