| From: | United Kingdom 🇬🇧 |
| Gender: | Male |
| Hardest Sport (Worked): | 7c |
| Hardest Trad (Worked): | E7 |
| Hardest Trad (Onsight): | E5 |
| Notable Partnerships | |
| Matt Ward | |
| Family | |
| Phil Gibson (sibling) | |
Gary Gibson is a massively prolific first ascentionist. He started new routing in 1977 and continued to establish many new routes up until the first half of 2020, where ill-health significantly slowed his efforts. In 2021 he surpassed 5000 new routes, and at the time he had climbed approximately 17600 routes in total. [2]
In more recent years Gary has worked extensively to equip (and re-equip) many lower grade sport climbing venues which have subsequently become extremely popular. Crags such as Horseshoe Quarry and Masson Lees Quarry are prime examples of this, containing many of the most popular lower grade sport routes in their respective areas.
Gary's new routing activities have proved controversial at times with accusations of retro-claims, unsubstantiated ascents and poor quality routes being levelled at various times.
Alongside his new routing activities Gary also somehow found time to contribute extensively to many guidebooks to the UK.
While the elite of British climbing have consistently ignored or dismissed his achievements … they cannot be so easily ignored. He is someone who, more than anybody else, has advanced easy to mid-grade sport climbing in this country — not to mention his trad routes. [3]
[1] https://www.google.co.uk/books/edition/Blood_Sweat_and_Smears/Dvn7xAEACAAJ?hl=en
[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2021/09/gary_gibson_climbs_his_5000th_first_ascent-72866
[3] https://footlesscrow.blogspot.com/2019/10/gary-gibsons-blood-sweat-and.html
38 recorded ascents.
| Climb | Grade | Style | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Eurothing | 7c | Lead | worked | 8th Jun 1988 | |
|
First ascent.
|
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| Hey Gringo | 7c | Lead | worked | 6th Aug 1988 | |
|
First ascent.
|
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| Poor Dill | 7c | Lead | worked | 1999 | |
|
First ascent.
|
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| Cosmopolitan | 7b+ | Lead | worked | May 1985 | |
|
First ascent.
|
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| Clarion Call | 7a | Lead | worked | 31st Aug 1983 | |
|
First ascent.
References[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rocktalk/origins_of_sport_climbing-741933?v=1#x9562649 |
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| Reactn | 6b+ | Lead | worked | ||
|
First ascent.
|
||||
| Pale Rider | 6a | Solo | 2001 | |
|
First ascent.
|
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| Climb | Grade | Style | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
|---|
| Climb | Grade | Style | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| The Jackals (with Bolt) | E7 | Lead | worked | 26th Apr 1986 | |
|
First ascent.
|
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| Mayan Skies | E7 | Alternate Leads | worked | 31st Jul 1986 | |
|
First ascent. With Matt Ward.
|
||||
| Internationale | E7 | Lead | worked | 4th Jul 1987 | |
|
First ascent.
|
||||
| The Black Lagoon | E7 | Lead | 6th Jul 1987 | |
|
First ascent.
|
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| Always the Sun | E7 | Lead | worked | 31st Aug 1987 | |
|
First ascent.
|
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| Mayan Skies | E7 | Lead | worked | 5th Aug 1989 | |
|
First ascent without the bolt runners. Led in a single pitch. References[1] Paul Harrison. Lundy. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 2008. |
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| Lemon Crushed | E7 | Lead | worked | 19th Aug 1991 | |
|
First ascent.
|
||||
| Cool Fool | E6 | Lead | worked | 1982 | |
|
First ascent.
|
||||
| Orange Robe Burning | E6 | Lead | worked | 11th Mar 1985 | |
|
First ascent.
|
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| Souls | E6 | Lead | worked | 2nd Jul 1985 | |
|
First ascent.
|
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| Watching the Ocean | E6 | Lead | worked | 25th Jul 1985 | |
|
First ascent.
With three bolts. References[1] Paul Harrison. Lundy. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 2008. [2] Mountain Issue 108, page 36 /library/11130/mountain-108 |
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| Death Watch Beetle Drive | E6 | Lead | worked | 25th Aug 1985 | |
|
First ascent.
References[1] Paul Harrison. Lundy. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 2008. |
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| In the Heat of the Night | E6 | Lead | worked | 7th Sep 1985 | |
|
First ascent.
References[1] Mountain Issue 109, page 18 /library/11131/mountain-109 |
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| Big in America | E6 | Lead | worked | 12th Apr 1987 | |
|
First ascent.
|
||||
| All Washed Up | E6 | Lead | worked | 19th Apr 1987 | |
|
First ascent.
|
||||
| Watching the Ocean | E6 | Lead | worked | 1st Aug 1989 | E6 |
|
Reclimbed without the bolts in place. |
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| What If... | E6 | Lead | worked | 27th Aug 1989 | |
|
First ascent.
|
||||
| Midnight Summer Dream | E5 | Lead | worked | 14th May 1980 | |
|
First ascent.
|
||||
| Ships That Pass in the Night | E5 | Lead | worked | 30th Apr 1983 | |
|
First ascent.
|
||||
| The Pulsebeat | E5 | Lead | 20th Mar 1984 | |
|
First ascent.
References[1] Mountain 101, page 16 /library/11122/mountain-101 |
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| Head Hunter | E5 | Lead | onsight | Between 31st Mar 1984 and 1st Jan 1985 | |
|
Second ascent. With Phil Gibson.
|
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| The Cullinan | E5 | Lead | worked | 26th Jul 1984 | |
|
First ascent.
With a bolt. References[1] Paul Harrison. Lundy. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 2008. |
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| Foolish, Ghoulish | E5 | Lead | worked | 1985 | |
|
First ascent. 3 sessions.
References[1] Mountain Issue 104, page 11 /library/11125/mountain-104 |
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| Barking Up the Wrong Tree | E5 | Lead | worked | 1985 | |
|
First ascent.
|
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| John Wayne | E5 | Lead | worked | 4th Jul 1985 | |
|
First ascent.
|
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| Special Branch | E5 | Lead | worked | 8th Sep 1985 | |
|
First ascent.
References[1] Mountain Issue 109, page 18 /library/11131/mountain-109 |
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| The Liquidator | E5 | Lead | worked | 8th Sep 1985 | |
|
First ascent.
References[1] Mountain Issue 109, page 18 /library/11131/mountain-109 |
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| Heaven or Hell | E5 | Lead | worked | 1st Jun 1991 | |
|
First ascent.
|
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| A Widespread Ocean of Fear | E5 | Lead | worked | ||
|
First ascent.
|
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| Cithaeron | E4 | Lead | 27th Jul 1984 | |
|
First ascent. With Matt Ward.
|
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| The Fascist and Me | E4 | Alternate Leads | 26th Feb 1988 | |
|
First ascent.
|
||||
| Climb | Grade | Style | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
|---|