The Roaches

More

• Change Log
• Notes Log
• Threads

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CXgiuMOI-Ce/

Climbed in mistake for Crystal Grazer (E5).

References

[1] Mountain Issue 109, page 19 /library/11131/mountain-109

Dixon had a couple of helpers stretch a blanket out underneath him while he attempted to make the first ascent, hoping they would be able to use it to catch him in case of a fall. [1]

References

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,33960.msg690840.html#msg690840

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 1 (1987) page 7 /library/16453/on-the-edge-1

References

[1] Mountain Issue 129 (1989), page 13 /library/11314/mountain-129

Jules fell off the route before making the first ascent but, miraculously, walked away unharmed.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CV8YmWKNZjR/

[2] On The Edge 63, page 9 /library/11066/on-the-edge-63

References

[1] http://beastmakerblog.blogspot.com/2010/11/more-cloud-formations.html

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x-ACI7nnd5g

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/CXOwn9-oqwC/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/reel/Cm1oVx_hEkp/

This leaning buttress of pristine Staffs grit, away from the fleshpots of the busy Roaches circuit, sports a couple of low footholds, some inviting looking overlaps and not much else. It's seen attention from various parties over the years, not least Ben Moon back in the 2000s, but it finally fell to Ned Feehally on an April morning this year after many visits.

Normally if it takes Ned umpteen sessions on a multi-year project, with various custom modified rock shoes being tried, you're guaranteed a hefty grade, but this one seems to be struck by the "feels easy when you do it" gritstone curse. Hence the suggested grade lies in the 8A ballpark.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2023/06/peak_bouldering_round-up_2022-23-73371