John Dunne


Quick Info

Nationality: GB
Hardest Sport (Worked): 9a
Hardest Trad (Worked): E10
Social Media

John Dunne is a British climber who established many hard, high quality sport and trad routes in the UK in the 1980s and 1990s. In particular routes like Austrian Oak and Magnetic Fields at Malham Cove were some of the hardest in the UK at the time.

John also put up many excellent trad routes. For example The New Statesman at Ilkley included very difficult climbing in a dangerous position and was one of the hardest routes on gritstone when it was put up.

John's climbing attracted a degree of controversy with some not believing his claimed ascents, though these doubts now appear to be unfounded.

Quick Info

Nationality: GB
Hardest Sport (Worked): 9a
Hardest Trad (Worked): E10
Social Media

John Dunne is a British climber who established many hard, high quality sport and trad routes in the UK in the 1980s and 1990s. In particular routes like Austrian Oak and Magnetic Fields at Malham Cove were some of the hardest in the UK at the time.

John also put up many excellent trad routes. For example The New Statesman at Ilkley included very difficult climbing in a dangerous position and was one of the hardest routes on gritstone when it was put up.

John's climbing attracted a degree of controversy with some not believing his claimed ascents, though these doubts now appear to be unfounded.


Pics + Vids

The New Statesman (E8, FA)
Added at 18:02 on 27 February 2021
Total Eclipse (9a, FA)
Added at 22:02 on 06 February 2022

Ascents

17 recorded ascents.

This timeline is missing some ascents where the date of the ascent is unknown. Use the other tabs to view these ascents.
Year Climb Grade FA Ascent Date
1987 The New Statesman E8 (Lead) 01 Oct 1987 (approx)

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/933538446712331

1988 The Groove 8a+ (Lead) 01 Jan 1988 (approx)
Austrian Oak 8b (Lead) 01 Jan 1988 (approx)
Predator 8b (Lead) 01 Jan 1988 (approx)
Magnetic Fields 8b (Lead) 01 Jan 1988 (approx)
Totally Free 8b (Lead) 01 Jan 1988 (approx)
1989 Cry Freedom 8c (Lead) 01 Aug 1989 (approx)

[1] The Power of Climbing (1991) by David Jones, page 192

Parthian Shot (Pre 2011 Break) E9 (Lead) 19 Sep 1989

There was a lot of skepticism at the time that John had actually climbed the route but this has subsequently turned out to be baseless.

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.115413049915581/115413303248889

1990
1991
1992
1993
1994 Divided Years E9 (Lead) 01 Sep 1994 (approx)
1995 Total Eclipse 9a (Lead) 01 Jan 1995 (approx)
1996 The Big Issue E9 (Lead) 01 May 1996 (approx)
1997 Loaded E8 (Lead) 01 Jun 1997 (approx)
1998 Carmen Picasso E8 (Lead) 01 Jan 1998 (approx)
Well Dunne Finish 8b (Lead) 01 Jan 1998 (approx)
Widdop Wall E10 (Lead) 01 Jan 1998 (approx)
1999
2000 Breathless E9 (Lead) 01 Jun 2000 (approx)
Climb Grade FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Total Eclipse 9a (Lead) 01 Jan 1995 (approx)
Cry Freedom 8c (Lead) 01 Aug 1989 (approx)

[1] The Power of Climbing (1991) by David Jones, page 192

Totally Free 8b (Lead) 01 Jan 1988 (approx)
Predator 8b (Lead) 01 Jan 1988 (approx)
Austrian Oak 8b (Lead) 01 Jan 1988 (approx)
Magnetic Fields 8b (Lead) 01 Jan 1988 (approx)
Well Dunne Finish 8b (Lead) 01 Jan 1998 (approx)
The Groove 8a+ (Lead) 01 Jan 1988 (approx)
Climb Grade FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Climb Grade FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Widdop Wall E10 (Lead) 01 Jan 1998 (approx)
Parthian Shot (Pre 2011 Break) E9 (Lead) 19 Sep 1989

There was a lot of skepticism at the time that John had actually climbed the route but this has subsequently turned out to be baseless.

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.115413049915581/115413303248889

Divided Years E9 (Lead) 01 Sep 1994 (approx)
The Big Issue E9 (Lead) 01 May 1996 (approx)
Breathless E9 (Lead) 01 Jun 2000 (approx) E10
Gribin Wall Climb E9 (Lead)

Third ascent.

The New Statesman E8 (Lead) 01 Oct 1987 (approx)

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/933538446712331

Loaded E8 (Lead) 01 Jun 1997 (approx)
Carmen Picasso E8 (Lead) 01 Jan 1998 (approx) E9
Climb Grade FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade