Tom de Gay


Quick Info

Nationality: GB
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 7B
Hardest Trad (Worked): E9

Contributors: remus

Quick Info

Nationality: GB
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 7B
Hardest Trad (Worked): E9
Contributors: remus

Lists


Pics + Vids

Suavito (7B, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 07:11 on 08 November 2023
It Hurts (E7, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 11:11 on 30 November 2023
Parthian Shot (Pre 2011 Break) (E9)
Added at 17:01 on 11 January 2021

Ascents

12 recorded ascents.

This timeline is missing some ascents where the date of the ascent is unknown. Use the other tabs to view these ascents.
Year Climb Grade Style Ascent Date
1999 Cool Moon E7 Solo | worked 1999
First ascent.

Without side runners.

Chocolate Swastika E7 Lead | worked 20th Dec 1999
2000 Suavito 7B Boulder | worked 2000
First ascent.

Back then, I misguidedly thought that naming and recording new boulder problems was pretentious; now I’m troubled by the thought that I might have done things and forgotten them. Perhaps that’s why I took this photo: to preserve that perfectly crisp gritstone moment. As it turned out, I can recall the climb quite vividly, but had no idea I'd taken a picture until unearthing it a few days ago.

Fortunately, it didn’t take long for me to reconsider writing up the climb. But to keep to the rules it needed to be a route, and have a route grade – so I gave it E5 6c. To be fair, out there on my own, no spotters and just a single pad, throwing one on for the top, it felt like I was earning a few E points.

On the name, Suavito is a track by Senõr Coconut, a German electronic music producer known for Latin arrangements of Kraftwerk tracks. Looking at the note in my guidebook, I was going to call it ‘Grip’, but that’s pretty been strongly scribbled out. [1]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CzXPXpzKvHy/

Drifter E7 Lead | worked 26th Mar 2000
The Shock of the New E7 Lead | worked 6th May 2000
Mutants Can Be Nice E7 Lead | worked 4th Aug 2000
It Hurts E7 Lead | worked 6th Sep 2000
First ascent.

The first go up, I matched the seam, launched into the dyno, made contact but didn’t stick. A generous helping of air. The cam ripped but the RPs held and I narrowly cleared the ledge. So, up again, jump again, peel off again. This time the cam stayed put, but slammed me sideways into the wall, my thigh brutally colliding with a spiky boss, creating a burning meteor of bruising. I hobbled off to heal.

An overcast day in September brought cooler temps. The seam felt crisp: jump! I caught the sloper again, swung out again… and stuck it, glancing at the loop of slack arcing out below. Yes!

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C0RIoWGqBe2/?img_index=1

2001 Meshuga E9 Lead | worked 2001
Third ascent.

References

[1] On The Edge, issue 114

The Mentalist Cupboard E7 Lead | worked Jun 2001
Let's Get Killed E7 Solo | worked 12th Jun 2001
First ascent.
Impulse E8 Lead | worked Aug 2001
Second ascent.

References

[1] On The Edge issue 110, page 10

Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Suavito 7B Boulder | worked 2000
First ascent.

Back then, I misguidedly thought that naming and recording new boulder problems was pretentious; now I’m troubled by the thought that I might have done things and forgotten them. Perhaps that’s why I took this photo: to preserve that perfectly crisp gritstone moment. As it turned out, I can recall the climb quite vividly, but had no idea I'd taken a picture until unearthing it a few days ago.

Fortunately, it didn’t take long for me to reconsider writing up the climb. But to keep to the rules it needed to be a route, and have a route grade – so I gave it E5 6c. To be fair, out there on my own, no spotters and just a single pad, throwing one on for the top, it felt like I was earning a few E points.

On the name, Suavito is a track by Senõr Coconut, a German electronic music producer known for Latin arrangements of Kraftwerk tracks. Looking at the note in my guidebook, I was going to call it ‘Grip’, but that’s pretty been strongly scribbled out. [1]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CzXPXpzKvHy/

Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Meshuga E9 Lead | worked 2001
Third ascent.

References

[1] On The Edge, issue 114

Parthian Shot (Pre 2011 Break) E9 Lead | did not finish
Impulse E8 Lead | worked Aug 2001
Second ascent.

References

[1] On The Edge issue 110, page 10

Cool Moon E7 Solo | worked 1999
First ascent.

Without side runners.

Chocolate Swastika E7 Lead | worked 20th Dec 1999
Drifter E7 Lead | worked 26th Mar 2000
The Shock of the New E7 Lead | worked 6th May 2000
Mutants Can Be Nice E7 Lead | worked 4th Aug 2000
It Hurts E7 Lead | worked 6th Sep 2000
First ascent.

The first go up, I matched the seam, launched into the dyno, made contact but didn’t stick. A generous helping of air. The cam ripped but the RPs held and I narrowly cleared the ledge. So, up again, jump again, peel off again. This time the cam stayed put, but slammed me sideways into the wall, my thigh brutally colliding with a spiky boss, creating a burning meteor of bruising. I hobbled off to heal.

An overcast day in September brought cooler temps. The seam felt crisp: jump! I caught the sloper again, swung out again… and stuck it, glancing at the loop of slack arcing out below. Yes!

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C0RIoWGqBe2/?img_index=1

The Mentalist Cupboard E7 Lead | worked Jun 2001
Let's Get Killed E7 Solo | worked 12th Jun 2001
First ascent.
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade