Johnny Dawes


Quick Info

Nationality: GB
Date of birth: 09 May 1964

Interview with Niall Grimes.

Features in 80's Birth of Extreme.

Quick Info

Nationality: GB
Date of birth: 09 May 1964
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 7C
Hardest Sport (Worked): 8b+
Hardest Trad (Worked): E9
Hardest Trad (Onsight): E7
Hardest Trad (Flash): E7

Podcasts


Pics + Vids

Johnny Dawes
Added at 16:01 on 19 January 2021
Johnny Dawes
Added at 17:01 on 19 January 2021
Indian Face (E9, FA)
Added at 16:01 on 19 January 2021
The Meltdown (9a)
Added at 16:01 on 19 January 2021
Indian Face (E9, FA)
Added at 17:01 on 19 January 2021
The Quarryman (E8, FA)
Added at 17:01 on 19 January 2021
Indian Face (E9, FA)
Added at 17:01 on 24 January 2021
Indian Face (E9, FA)
Added at 17:01 on 24 January 2021
Indian Face (E9, FA)
Added at 17:01 on 24 January 2021
Indian Face (E9, FA)
Added at 17:01 on 24 January 2021
Indian Face (E9, FA)
Added at 17:01 on 24 January 2021
Inuit (8b+)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 12:02 on 10 February 2021
The Quarryman (E8, FA)
Added at 22:03 on 07 March 2021
The Fire Escape (E7, FA)
Added at 22:03 on 07 March 2021
Come to Mother (E7, FA)
Added at 22:03 on 07 March 2021
The Hollow Man (E8, FA)
Added at 22:03 on 07 March 2021
Indian Face (E9, FA)
Added at 22:03 on 07 March 2021
Coeur de Lion (E8, FA)
Added at 23:03 on 07 March 2021
Coeur de Lion (E8, FA)
Added at 23:03 on 07 March 2021
The Salmon (E7)
Added at 13:09 on 16 September 2021
Rupert Road (E6, FA)
Added at 21:03 on 08 March 2021
Llanberies (E7, FA)
Added at 21:03 on 08 March 2021
Teenage Menopause (E7)
Added at 08:03 on 09 March 2021
The Tesseract (E7)
Added at 20:07 on 25 July 2021
Drummond Base (E8, FA)
Added at 22:02 on 22 February 2021
Zen Boy (E7, FA)
Added at 22:02 on 22 February 2021
Downhill Racer Direct (7A+, FA)
Added at 19:02 on 15 February 2021
Monopoly (E7, FA)
Added at 18:02 on 20 February 2021
The Angle's Share (7C, FA)
Added at 19:02 on 20 February 2021
Offspring (E5, FA)
Added at 22:02 on 22 February 2021
Perplexity (E6, FA)
Added at 22:02 on 22 February 2021
Dawes of Perception (E7, FA)
Added at 08:04 on 11 April 2021
Windows of Perception (E6, FA)
Added at 09:04 on 11 April 2021
Conan the Librarian (E7, FA)
Added at 08:04 on 19 April 2021
The Medium (8a, FA)
Added at 08:04 on 19 April 2021
Conan the Librarian (E7, FA)
Added at 09:04 on 19 April 2021
Conan the Librarian (E7, FA)
Added at 09:04 on 19 April 2021

Ascents

39 recorded ascents.

This timeline is missing some ascents where the date of the ascent is unknown. Use the other tabs to view these ascents.
Year Climb Grade FA Ascent Date
1982 Downhill Racer Direct 7A+ (Boulder) 01 Jan 1982 (approx)

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116578176465735/116579446465608

1983 Monopoly E7 (Lead) 01 Jan 1983 (approx)

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116578176465735/116580406465512

1984 The Salmon E7 (Lead) 01 Jan 1984 (approx)
Ulysses' Bow E6 (Solo Onsight) 01 Apr 1984 (approx)
1985 A Fist Full of Crystals E6 (Solo Onsight) 01 Jan 1985 (approx)

1985 or 1986.

The Meltdown 9a (Lead Did not finish) 01 Jan 1985 (approx)

Johnny put in some excellent links (estimated to be in the 8c/+ range) way back in the day, when 9a would have been the hardest climbing in the world.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bu2b4P6-IcY

Offspring E5 (Lead) 24 Apr 1985

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.150023826454503/150024366454449

Perplexity E6 (Lead) 09 Jul 1985

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.150023826454503/150024903121062

Dawes of Perception E7 (Lead) 23 Oct 1985

https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=117799383010281&set=a.117799293010290

1986 Gaia E8 (Lead) 01 Jan 1986 (approx)
Slab and Crack E8 (Lead) 01 Jan 1986 (approx)
Beau Geste E7 (Lead Flash) 01 Jan 1986 (approx)

https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,31629.msg649897.html#msg649897

Piece Of Mind E6 (Solo Did not finish) 01 Jan 1986 (approx)

Johnny fell of the last move on the onsight but remarkably walked away unscathed!

Come to Mother E7 (Lead Onsight) 01 Jan 1986 (approx)

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.149995619790657/149995939790625

Art Nouveau E6 (Solo Onsight) 01 Jan 1986 (approx)
Coeur de Lion E8 (Lead) 12 Mar 1986

Originally given E6!

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.149995619790657/149997203123832

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.149995619790657/149997303123822

Conan the Librarian E7 (Lead) 21 Jul 1986

https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=117802133010006&set=a.117799293010290

https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=117802409676645&set=a.117799293010290

https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=117802443009975&set=a.117799293010290

The Medium 8a (Lead) 24 Jul 1986

https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=117802186343334&set=a.117799293010290

The Quarryman E8 (Lead) 10 Sep 1986

Johnny climbed the first 2 pitches on the 10th september and the second two pitches on the 11th september. He alter climbed the route in a single push.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lLyF8zcP674

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.149995619790657/149995749790644

The Fire Escape E7 (Lead) 22 Sep 1986

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.149995619790657/149995929790626

The Hollow Man E8 (Lead) 02 Oct 1986

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.149995619790657/149996006457285

Indian Face E9 (Lead) 04 Oct 1986

I went for the crux, the motion startling me like a car unexpectedly in gear in a crowded parking lot. I swarm through the roundness of the bulge to a crank on a brittle spike for a cluster of three crystals on the right; each finger crucial and separate like the keys for a piano chord. I change feet three times to rest my lower legs, each time having to jump my foot out to put the other in. The finger-holds are too poor to hang on should the toes catch on each other. All those foot-changing mistakes on easy moves by runners come to mind. There is no resting. I must go and climb for the top. I swarm up towards the sunlight, gasping for air. A brittle hold stays under mistreatment and then I really blow it. Fearful of a smear on now-non-sticky boots I use an edge and move up, a fall fatal, but the automaton stabs back through, wobbling, but giving its all and I grasp a large sidepull and tube upward. The ropes dangle uselessly from my waist. Arthur Birtwhistle on Diagonal, I grasp incuts and the tight movement swerves to a glide as gravity swings skyward ...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JMX4NAw0NSE

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sNb5_PYRhQA

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.149995619790657/149996096457276

Windows of Perception E6 (Lead) 24 Oct 1986

https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=117799339676952&set=a.117799293010290

1987 Rupert Road E6 (Lead Onsight) 29 Apr 1987

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.149995619790657/149997903123762

Llanberies E7 (Lead) 05 May 1987

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.149995619790657/149997963123756

Clap Please E7 (Lead) 08 May 1987

Johnny thought E6 6c.

1988 Hardback Thesaurus E8 (Lead Ground up) 15 May 1988
1989
1990 The Very Big and the Very Small 8b+ (Lead) 01 Jan 1990 (approx)
1991
1992
1993
1994 The Angle's Share 7C (Boulder) 19 Jun 1994

Originally climbed without pads at E8.

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.115413049915581/115414339915452

1995 The Salmon E7 (Lead) 01 Jan 1995 (approx)

Reclimbed after the loss of an important pebble.

Face Mecca E9 (Lead) 01 Jan 1995 (approx)
1996
1997
1998
1999
2000
2001
2002
2003 Zen Boy E7 (Lead) 01 Sep 2003 (approx)

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.143839010406318/143839717072914

Drummond Base E8 (Lead) 23 Oct 2003

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.143839010406318/143839717072914

2004
2005
2006
2007
2008
2009
2010
2011
2012
2013
2014
2015
2016
2017
2018 Inuit 8b+ (Lead) 10 Nov 2018

https://www.instagram.com/p/BqAZqOZlLbF/

2019
2020
2021 The Salmon E7 (Lead) 01 Jan 2021 (approx)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KyGwXaPl3As

Climb Grade FA Ascent Date
The Meltdown 9a (Lead Did not finish) 01 Jan 1985 (approx)

Johnny put in some excellent links (estimated to be in the 8c/+ range) way back in the day, when 9a would have been the hardest climbing in the world.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bu2b4P6-IcY

The Very Big and the Very Small 8b+ (Lead) 01 Jan 1990 (approx)
Inuit 8b+ (Lead) 10 Nov 2018

https://www.instagram.com/p/BqAZqOZlLbF/

Tabou Zizi 8b (Lead)

Pre-1991. [1]

[1] The Power of Climbing (1991) by David Jones, page 192

The Medium 8a (Lead) 24 Jul 1986

https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=117802186343334&set=a.117799293010290

Climb Grade FA Ascent Date
The Angle's Share 7C (Boulder) 19 Jun 1994

Originally climbed without pads at E8.

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.115413049915581/115414339915452

Downhill Racer Direct 7A+ (Boulder) 01 Jan 1982 (approx)

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116578176465735/116579446465608

Climb Grade FA Ascent Date
Indian Face E9 (Lead) 04 Oct 1986

I went for the crux, the motion startling me like a car unexpectedly in gear in a crowded parking lot. I swarm through the roundness of the bulge to a crank on a brittle spike for a cluster of three crystals on the right; each finger crucial and separate like the keys for a piano chord. I change feet three times to rest my lower legs, each time having to jump my foot out to put the other in. The finger-holds are too poor to hang on should the toes catch on each other. All those foot-changing mistakes on easy moves by runners come to mind. There is no resting. I must go and climb for the top. I swarm up towards the sunlight, gasping for air. A brittle hold stays under mistreatment and then I really blow it. Fearful of a smear on now-non-sticky boots I use an edge and move up, a fall fatal, but the automaton stabs back through, wobbling, but giving its all and I grasp a large sidepull and tube upward. The ropes dangle uselessly from my waist. Arthur Birtwhistle on Diagonal, I grasp incuts and the tight movement swerves to a glide as gravity swings skyward ...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JMX4NAw0NSE

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sNb5_PYRhQA

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.149995619790657/149996096457276

Face Mecca E9 (Lead) 01 Jan 1995 (approx)
Gaia E8 (Lead) 01 Jan 1986 (approx)
Slab and Crack E8 (Lead) 01 Jan 1986 (approx)
Coeur de Lion E8 (Lead) 12 Mar 1986

Originally given E6!

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.149995619790657/149997203123832

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.149995619790657/149997303123822

The Quarryman E8 (Lead) 10 Sep 1986

Johnny climbed the first 2 pitches on the 10th september and the second two pitches on the 11th september. He alter climbed the route in a single push.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lLyF8zcP674

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.149995619790657/149995749790644

The Hollow Man E8 (Lead) 02 Oct 1986

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.149995619790657/149996006457285

Hardback Thesaurus E8 (Lead Ground up) 15 May 1988
Drummond Base E8 (Lead) 23 Oct 2003

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.143839010406318/143839717072914

Monopoly E7 (Lead) 01 Jan 1983 (approx)

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116578176465735/116580406465512

The Salmon E7 (Lead) 01 Jan 1984 (approx)
Dawes of Perception E7 (Lead) 23 Oct 1985

https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=117799383010281&set=a.117799293010290

Come to Mother E7 (Lead Onsight) 01 Jan 1986 (approx)

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.149995619790657/149995939790625

Conan the Librarian E7 (Lead) 21 Jul 1986

https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=117802133010006&set=a.117799293010290

https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=117802409676645&set=a.117799293010290

https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=117802443009975&set=a.117799293010290

The Fire Escape E7 (Lead) 22 Sep 1986

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.149995619790657/149995929790626

Llanberies E7 (Lead) 05 May 1987

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.149995619790657/149997963123756

Zen Boy E7 (Lead) 01 Sep 2003 (approx)

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.143839010406318/143839717072914

Beau Geste E7 (Lead Flash) 01 Jan 1986 (approx)

https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,31629.msg649897.html#msg649897

Clap Please E7 (Lead) 08 May 1987

Johnny thought E6 6c.

The Salmon E7 (Lead) 01 Jan 1995 (approx)

Reclimbed after the loss of an important pebble.

The Salmon E7 (Lead) 01 Jan 2021 (approx)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KyGwXaPl3As

Unfamiliar E7 (Lead Did not finish)

Johnny tried the line ground up for a long time.

The Tesseract E7 (Lead Did not finish)

Johnny tried the route in 80's Birth of Extreme.

Teenage Menopause E7 (Lead)

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116371059819780/116373369819549

Perplexity E6 (Lead) 09 Jul 1985

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.150023826454503/150024903121062

Windows of Perception E6 (Lead) 24 Oct 1986

https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=117799339676952&set=a.117799293010290

Rupert Road E6 (Lead Onsight) 29 Apr 1987

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.149995619790657/149997903123762

Ulysses' Bow E6 (Solo Onsight) 01 Apr 1984 (approx)
A Fist Full of Crystals E6 (Solo Onsight) 01 Jan 1985 (approx)

1985 or 1986.

Piece Of Mind E6 (Solo Did not finish) 01 Jan 1986 (approx)

Johnny fell of the last move on the onsight but remarkably walked away unscathed!

Art Nouveau E6 (Solo Onsight) 01 Jan 1986 (approx)
Offspring E5 (Lead) 24 Apr 1985

https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.150023826454503/150024366454449

Climb Grade FA Ascent Date