Black Rocks

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Climbed onsight solo in spring 1986.

I was on my [way] back to London with some of the NLMC we stopped off at Black Rock, because they wanted to do Demon Rib. I wandered around the corner and noticed the runnel. Couldn’t resist trying to get on it. Once on it I noticed what I thought were old brush marks, so started padding up them. When I was about half way up the other lads appeared and asked what it was. I said I had no idea and wasn't sure if there were actually any holds higher up. Mark Lynden ran to the top with a rope just in case. Well there were enough luckily. A week or so later I made a note in the book at Stoney to say I’d done it but didn't know if it was new or not. A while later John Allen told me I'd done the first ascent of Velvet Silence, he'd probably had his eye on it. I had no idea what he was talking about, so he explained what he knew about it. I never claimed it, graded or named it but I did at least actually climb it.[1]

Prior to Regan’s ascent Jonny Woodward had apparently told John Allen he had done it, perhaps as a wind-up. The claim was later retracted. [2]

References

[1] Correspondence, October 2025

[2] 'Peak Rock', Vertebrate 2013.

An impressive effort after minimal top rope practice.

References

[1] Mountain Issue 109, page 19 /library/11131/mountain-109

Straight up the centre of the slab, Dawes reckoned the climbing would be worth 8A. Climbed without pads – after top-roping but with no falls – and graded E8 7a.

References

[1] https://youtu.be/5416X0ID1zU?t=676

You cheeky little thing, I'll have you yet... [1]

References

[1] Hard Grit (1998)

[2] On The Edge Issue 73, page 9

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PawVn_-Cgiw

With a runner in Lean Man's Climb, up which the route starts. Still with ground fall potential from the last hard moves.

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 90, page 11 and 72

As I flow through the sequence of moves, I am only partially aware of what I am doing. My thoughts are hazy, in a self-induced state of obedience. The body leads and the mind follows, always one step behind, always in a state of humble acknowledgement, registering the present as it flows, unaware of future or past, free from the savage responsibility of thought. Fear and thought are synonymous and consequently the most frightening part of the ascent coincides with the only moment of dominance my mind has: the decision to go. Concentration is of the essence, the act of forcibly stupefying the senses and allowing myself to follow the drift of my own body. As I climb, I feel as though I am leaving myself behind, and by giving myself up to the movement of the rock, by concentrating myself into the subtle tensions the moves require, I am able to escape the obligation to think, and this, more than anything else, brings me a measure of peace. [1]

Neil Gresham:

It's a disturbing feeling when a trusted friend turns out to be psychotic. And to think that Charlie Woodburn had been displaying all the signs whilst staying at our house in Sheffield when he was trying his project - the direct finish to Gaia at Black Rocks.

We'd noticed his insomnia, the mood swings and his slow withdrawal from society, but it didn't register until it was too late. When Tim and I eventually tried Harder Faster ourselves on a top rope after Charlie had made his successful lead, we came away with a feeling that a friend of ours had done something really, really bad. As the relatives always say with hindsight, 'If only we'd realised, we'd have tried to talk him out of it, or at least called the police.' [3]

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/charlie-woodburn-gritstone-masterpiece-harder-faster-black-rocks.html

[2] On The Edge Issue 104, page 10

[3] Preposterous Tales (2005) Neil Gresham, Tim Emmett

Climbed just after Meshuga and requiring a similar number of pads. Named by guidebook writer.