John Allen


Quick Info

Nationality: GB
Date of birth: 16 November 1958
Date of death: 18 May 2020
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 7C
Hardest Trad (Worked): E6
Hardest Trad (Onsight): E5

John was a prolific and gifted climber who established a host of hard, classic routes on his local gritstone crags in the peak district.

Lines that had been eyed up by many fell to this prodigious young talent. He climbed Old Friends when he was just 14 and continued adding quality new first ascents from there, such as Hairless Heart, White Wand, Profit of Doom and London Wall which were climbed within a 2 week period at age 16!

While later climbers pushed the numbers up John added a plethora of high quality lines such as West Side Story at Burbage West.

References

[1] Obituary on UKClimbing.com by Graham Hoey, 27th May 2020 https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/the_day_the_music_died_-_remembering_john_allen-12803

Quick Info

Nationality: GB
Date of birth: 16 November 1958
Date of death: 18 May 2020
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 7C
Hardest Trad (Worked): E6
Hardest Trad (Onsight): E5

John was a prolific and gifted climber who established a host of hard, classic routes on his local gritstone crags in the peak district.

Lines that had been eyed up by many fell to this prodigious young talent. He climbed Old Friends when he was just 14 and continued adding quality new first ascents from there, such as Hairless Heart, White Wand, Profit of Doom and London Wall which were climbed within a 2 week period at age 16!

While later climbers pushed the numbers up John added a plethora of high quality lines such as West Side Story at Burbage West.

References

[1] Obituary on UKClimbing.com by Graham Hoey, 27th May 2020 https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/the_day_the_music_died_-_remembering_john_allen-12803


Podcasts


Pics + Vids

Shirley's Shining Temple (7C, FA)
Added at 15:12 on 29 December 2020
Edge Lane (E5)
Added at 20:02 on 19 February 2021

Ascents

14 recorded ascents.

This timeline is missing some ascents where the date of the ascent is unknown. Use the other tabs to view these ascents.
Year Climb Grade FA Ascent Date
1973 Old Friends E4 (Lead) 01 Jan 1973 (approx)
1974
1975 Great Wall E4 (Lead) 01 Jan 1975 (approx)
Profit of Doom E4 (Lead) 01 Jan 1975 (approx)
Hairless Heart E5 (Lead) 01 Jan 1975 (approx)
London Wall E5 (Lead) 01 Jan 1975 (approx)
White Wand E5 (Lead) 01 Jan 1975 (approx)
1976 Strapadictomy E5 (Lead) 01 Jan 1976 (approx)
Pebble Mill E5 (Lead) 01 Jan 1976 (approx)
1977
1978
1979
1980
1981
1982
1983 Wall of Sound E6 (Lead) 01 Jan 1983 (approx)
1984 Shirley's Shining Temple 7C (Boulder) 01 Jan 1984 (approx)
1985
1986 Indian Summer E6 (Lead) 01 Jan 1986 (approx)
Climb Grade FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Climb Grade FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Shirley's Shining Temple 7C (Boulder) 01 Jan 1984 (approx)
West Side Story 7B+ (Boulder)
Climb Grade FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Wall of Sound E6 (Lead) 01 Jan 1983 (approx)
Indian Summer E6 (Lead) 01 Jan 1986 (approx)
Hairless Heart E5 (Lead) 01 Jan 1975 (approx)
White Wand E5 (Lead) 01 Jan 1975 (approx)
London Wall E5 (Lead) 01 Jan 1975 (approx)
Pebble Mill E5 (Lead) 01 Jan 1976 (approx)
Strapadictomy E5 (Lead) 01 Jan 1976 (approx)
Edge Lane E5 (Lead Onsight)
Old Friends E4 (Lead) 01 Jan 1973 (approx)
Great Wall E4 (Lead) 01 Jan 1975 (approx)
Profit of Doom E4 (Lead) 01 Jan 1975 (approx)
The Dangler E2 (Lead)

Age 12!

Climb Grade FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade