John Allen

Also known as: The Boss

Quick Info

From: United Kingdom 🇬🇧
Date of birth: 16th November 1958
Age: 61 years old
Date of death: 18th May 2020
Gender: Male
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 7C
Hardest Sport (Worked): 6c
Hardest Sport (Onsight): 6c+
Hardest Trad (Worked): E7
Hardest Trad (Onsight): E5
Notable Partnerships
Steve Bancroft
Mark Stokes
Tobin Sorenson
Pete Robins

John was a prolific and gifted climber who established a host of hard, classic routes on his local gritstone crags in the Peak District.

Lines that had been eyed up by many fell to this prodigious young talent. He climbed Old Friends when he was just 14 and continued adding quality new first ascents from there, such as Hairless Heart, White Wand, Profit of Doom and London Wall which were climbed within a 2 week period at age 16.

From around 1977 to 1980, John lived in New Zealand where he established dozens of future classics [2]. He moved to Tahoe, USA, for 18 months (1981-82), climbing with John Bachar, John Long and Tony Yaniro. With Simon Horrox, he climbed The Nose in a day with no jumaring. [1] – the first time this had been achieved.

Shoulder surgery in early 1982 curtailed his output, but on return to the UK he began adding a plethora of high quality gritstone 'micro-routes' such as West Side Story at Burbage West.

Although his enthusiasm for climbing waned in the '90s, he returned to it in the 2010s, developing mid-grade sport routes in the limestone quarries of the Peak District.

John sadly died in a climbing accident at Stoney West in 2020 [4]. He remains a revered and fondly remembered figure in British climbing.

References

[1] Obituary on UKClimbing.com by Graham Hoey, 27th May 2020 https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/the_day_the_music_died_-_remembering_john_allen-12803

[2] List of John Allen routes in New Zealand https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/ticklists/nz_john_allen_routes-2588?sort=g

[3] Interview with Geoff Birtles for Crags magazine in December 1976, shortly before John emmigrated to New Zealand https://www.climber.co.uk/people/the-john-allen-interview-crags-8-1977/

[4] UKClimbing.com news report on the accident which killed John Allen (2020) https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2020/05/john_allen_tragically_killed_at_stoney_west-72315

Contributors
TdG
916 contributions since 19th August 2025.
206 contributions since 22nd December 2020.
5 contributions since 7th July 2025.

Quick Info

From: United Kingdom 🇬🇧
Date of birth: 16th November 1958
Date of death: 18th May 2020
Age: 61 years old
Gender: Male
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 7C
Hardest Sport (Worked): 6c
Hardest Sport (Onsight): 6c+
Hardest Trad (Worked): E7
Hardest Trad (Onsight): E5
Notable Partnerships
Steve Bancroft
Mark Stokes
Tobin Sorenson
Pete Robins

John was a prolific and gifted climber who established a host of hard, classic routes on his local gritstone crags in the Peak District.

Lines that had been eyed up by many fell to this prodigious young talent. He climbed Old Friends when he was just 14 and continued adding quality new first ascents from there, such as Hairless Heart, White Wand, Profit of Doom and London Wall which were climbed within a 2 week period at age 16.

From around 1977 to 1980, John lived in New Zealand where he established dozens of future classics [2]. He moved to Tahoe, USA, for 18 months (1981-82), climbing with John Bachar, John Long and Tony Yaniro. With Simon Horrox, he climbed The Nose in a day with no jumaring. [1] – the first time this had been achieved.

Shoulder surgery in early 1982 curtailed his output, but on return to the UK he began adding a plethora of high quality gritstone 'micro-routes' such as West Side Story at Burbage West.

Although his enthusiasm for climbing waned in the '90s, he returned to it in the 2010s, developing mid-grade sport routes in the limestone quarries of the Peak District.

John sadly died in a climbing accident at Stoney West in 2020 [4]. He remains a revered and fondly remembered figure in British climbing.

References

[1] Obituary on UKClimbing.com by Graham Hoey, 27th May 2020 https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/the_day_the_music_died_-_remembering_john_allen-12803

[2] List of John Allen routes in New Zealand https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/ticklists/nz_john_allen_routes-2588?sort=g

[3] Interview with Geoff Birtles for Crags magazine in December 1976, shortly before John emmigrated to New Zealand https://www.climber.co.uk/people/the-john-allen-interview-crags-8-1977/

[4] UKClimbing.com news report on the accident which killed John Allen (2020) https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2020/05/john_allen_tragically_killed_at_stoney_west-72315

Contributors
TdG
916 contributions since 19th August 2025.
206 contributions since 22nd December 2020.
5 contributions since 7th July 2025.

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Ascents

158 recorded ascents.

This timeline is missing some ascents where the date of the ascent is unknown.
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Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade

References

[1] Mountain 47 (1975), page 15 /library/11078/mountain-47

References

[1] Mountain 47 (1975), page 15 /library/11078/mountain-47
Nether Edge 6c Lead | worked 1979
First ascent.
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Pretty Petty 5+ Boulder | worked 1987
First ascent.
First ascent.

Allen originally started by coming in from the right, returning later to add the 7C direct start.
Business Lunch 7C Boulder | worked Aug 1984
First ascent.
First ascent.

Initially a grade of E3 7a was proposed! [1]

References

[1] Mountain Issue 104, page 11 /library/11125/mountain-104
Leyroy Slips a Disc 7B Boulder | worked 1986
First ascent.
Night Salt 7A+ Boulder | worked 1984
First ascent.
The Sphinx 7A+ Boulder | worked 1985
First ascent.
Winsome 7A+ Boulder | worked 1986
First ascent.
Wish 7A+ Boulder | worked May 1986
First ascent.
Chip Shop Brawl 7A+ Boulder | worked 1987 7A+
First ascent.
First ascent.

Date is approximate, c.1994 according to 1996 Chatsworth guide.
Above and Beyond the Kinaesthetic Barrier 7A Boulder | worked 1976
First ascent.
Shredded Feet 7A Boulder | worked 1976
First ascent.
The Day the World Stood Still 7A Boulder | worked 1980
First ascent.
Europe After Rain 7A Boulder | worked 1984
First ascent.
Good Clean Fun 7A Boulder | worked 1984
First ascent.
Gritstone Megamix 7A Lead 1984
First ascent.
Small Is Beautiful 7A Boulder | worked 1985
First ascent.
The Jackalope 7A Boulder | worked 1985
First ascent.
Chapel of Rest 7A Boulder | worked 1986
First ascent.
Left Spur 7A Boulder | worked 11th Jun 1986
First ascent.
Pockets and Pebbles 7A Boulder | worked 17th Jul 1986
First ascent.
Bath House Pink 7A Boulder | worked 1987
First ascent.
Right Spur 6C+ Boulder | worked 1976
First ascent.
Starlight and Storm 6C+ Boulder | worked 16th May 1986
First ascent.
Fidget 6C Boulder | worked 1973
First ascent.
Lifeseeker 6C Boulder | worked 1973
First ascent.
Not to be Taken Away 6C Boulder | worked 1976
First ascent.
Breadline 6C Boulder | worked 1984
First ascent.
Art of Japan 6C Boulder | worked 1986
First ascent.
Mounting Frustration 6C Boulder | worked 1987
First ascent.
Roman Orgy 6B+ Boulder | worked 1988
First ascent.
Technical Master 6B Boulder | worked 1976
New York, New York 6B Boulder | worked 1986
First ascent.
White Noise F.M. 6A+ Solo 16th Mar 1999
First ascent. With Pete Robins.
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade

John removed the mortar from the line in an attempt to free it, though he was ultimately unsuccessful. Perhaps not surprising given the difficulty!

References

[1] Mountain Issue 141 (1991), page 10 https://climbing-history.org/library/11320/mountain-141
End of the Affair E8 Top Rope | worked 1975-1976
First ascent.

With side runners.
First ascent.

References

[1] Mountain Issue 104, page 11 /library/11125/mountain-104

Top roped in EBs at English 7a.
First free ascent.

Using a flake which subsequently broke
Third ascent.

References

[1] Mountain 70 (1979), page 18
Wall of Sound E6 Lead | worked 1983
First ascent.
First ascent.

References

[1] Mountain Issue 104, page 11 /library/11125/mountain-104
First ascent.

References

[1] Mountain Issue 104, page 11 /library/11125/mountain-104
Indian Summer E6 Lead | worked 1986
First ascent.
Grace and Danger E6 Solo | worked 1986
First ascent.
Amazing Grace E6 Lead | worked 17th Jun 1986
First ascent.
First ascent.

John had previously soloed the route in winter above a large snowdrift, only to fail at the cornice.
First ascent.

A sudden attack of new route paranoia whilst driving to The Roaches compelled me to turn around, head for Curbar and pluck up the courage for this line I'd inspected some 12 years ago! I was convinced Fawcett was going to do it at any moment
First ascent.

With side-runners, traversing in from the chimney
Concept of Kinky E6 Lead 15th Jun 1989
First ascent.
First ascent.

With only one nut runner
First ascent.

John arrived at the crag to find the arête caked in Drummond's chalk, inspiring the name.
Hairless Heart E5 Lead | worked 1975
First ascent.
First ascent.

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 107, page 47.
Artless E5 Solo 1976
First ascent.
Pebble Mill E5 Lead | worked 1976
First ascent.
Edge Lane E5 Solo | worked 1976
Strapadictomy E5 Lead | worked 1976
First ascent.
First ascent.

Peak limestone also drew John in – albeit nowhere near to the same degree as his beloved gritstone and he didn’t have it all his way either. Apocalypse (originally E6 but now E4), a case in point, wasn’t John’s finest hour. John, having seconded Steve up the first pitch, failed to lead the top pitch. Later that month (April 1976), the pair dispatched Castellan (E5 6b, 6b) on High Tor to give one of the hardest routes on Peak limestone. Again, Steve Bancroft got the first and arguable the hardest pitch – something which rankled Allen considerably. That pitch consumed so much time and effort that they had to return a second day to allow Allen to lead the top pitch. That barely consoled the miserable Allen however.

References

[1] https://www.climber.co.uk/news/john-allen-god-of-grit-the-legend/
Green Death E5 Lead | onsight 1976
Caricature E5 Lead | worked 1976
First ascent.
Salisbury Hill E5 Lead 1979
First ascent.
Go E5 Lead 1979
First ascent.
Tjuringa E5 Alternate Leads 1979
First ascent. With Tobin Sorenson.
Enfant Terrible E5 Lead 1979
First ascent.
Third ascent.

References

[1] Mountain 70 (1979), page 18
Aslan E5 Alternate Leads 1979
First ascent. With Tobin Sorenson.
Sheltered Childhood E5 Lead 1979
First ascent.
Easy Listening E5 Lead 1980
First ascent.
The Loom E5 Lead 1980
First ascent.
Fiddler in the Roof E5 Lead | worked 1980
First ascent. With Tobin Sorenson.
Stanage Without Oxygen E5 Lead | worked 1983
First ascent.
Forbidden Planet E5 Lead 1984
First ascent.
Cardinal's Treasure E5 Lead 1984
First ascent.
Second ascent.

John had shown up to the crag expecting to make a first ascent
First ascent.

With side runners in the route to the right.

Reported in the July/August 1985 issue of Mountain but listed in the guide as having been climbed 16 October 1984.

References

[1] Mountain Issue 104, page 11 /library/11125/mountain-104
First ascent.

References

[1] Mountain Issue 104, page 11 /library/11125/mountain-104
The Terminator E5 Lead 1985
First ascent.
First ascent.

References

[1] Mountain Issue 104, page 11 /library/11125/mountain-104
First ascent.

References

[1] Mountain Issue 104, page 11 /library/11125/mountain-104
The Children's House E5 Lead | worked 1986
First ascent.
The Igloo E5 Lead 1986
First ascent.
Punishment E5 Lead | worked 1986
First ascent.
Moontan E5 Lead | worked 1987
First ascent.
We Ain't Gonna Pay No Toll E5 Solo 1987
First ascent.
Welcome to the Body Park E5 Lead 21st Aug 1987
First ascent.
Moolah E5 Lead 1988
First ascent.
The Trickledown Fairy E5 Lead 1988
First ascent.
Only Human E5 Lead 1988
First ascent.
Smash Your Glasses E5 Lead 1988
First ascent.
Feet Neet E5 Lead | worked Mar 1988
First ascent.
First ascent.

References

[1] Mountain Issue 134 (1990), page 13 /library/11317/mountain-134
Old Friends E4 Lead | worked 1973
First ascent.
First ascent. With Steve Bancroft.

References

[1] Crags Issue 1, page 2
First ascent.

Originally graded 'modern HVS' [1]

References

[1] Bancroft, S. 'Recent Developments', 1977
Silent Spring E4 Alternate Leads | worked 1975
First ascent.
Harvest E4 Lead 1975
First ascent.
First free ascent.

Although climbing ground-up, and hence on-sight, John used chalk and to some that was unforgivable at the time!

References

[1] https://www.climber.co.uk/news/john-allen-god-of-grit-the-legend/
Reticent Mass Murderer E4 Lead | worked 1976
First ascent.
Moon Walk E4 Lead 1976
First ascent.
Nectar E4 Lead 1976
First ascent. With Steve Bancroft.
The Wasteland E4 Lead 1979
First ascent.
First ascent.

References

[1] https://downloads.porthillsclimbing.nz/Castle-Rock-Rev-A.pdf
Biggles Tears a Tendon E4 Lead 1980
First ascent.
Noperu E4 Lead | worked 1984
First ascent.
Boot Boy E4 Lead 1984
First ascent.
Liquid Assets E4 Lead | worked 11th Jan 1987
First ascent.
Portrait of a Legend E4 Lead 24th Apr 1987
First ascent. With Johnny Dawes.
More Tea Vicar? E4 Lead | worked 22nd Sep 1987
First ascent.
A Day at the Prom E4 Lead | worked 1988
First ascent.
Our Kid E4 Lead | worked 1989
First ascent.
So Many Classics, So Little Time E4 Solo
First ascent.
The Moon E3 Alternate Leads 1974
First ascent. With Steve Bancroft. First free ascent.
Requiem E3 Lead 1975
First ascent. First free ascent.
Sleeping Sickness E3 Lead 1975
First ascent.
Saville Street E3 Lead 1975
First free ascent.
Second ascent.

References

[1] Crags Issue 1, page 2
The Lamia E3 Alternate Leads 1975
First ascent.
Nightshade E3 Lead | worked 11th Jan 1975
First ascent.
Gulley Joke E3 Lead | worked 25th Jul 1975
First ascent.
Golden Days E3 Lead 1976
First ascent.
Deadbay Groove Direct E3 Lead 1976
First ascent.
Vain E3 Lead 1976
First ascent.
Rambandit E3 Lead | worked 1978
First ascent.
Trick or Treat E3 Lead 1985
First ascent.
Agadoo E3 Lead | worked 1985
First ascent.
First ascent.

approx date
Lardmaster E3 Lead | worked 15th Feb 1988
First ascent.
Black Attack E3 Lead 20th May 1990
First ascent.

Age 12!
Soyuz E2 Lead 1972
First ascent.
The Arête E2 Lead 1973
First ascent. First free ascent.
Suspense E2 Lead 1975
First free ascent.
Predator E2 Lead 1976
First ascent.
Incestuous E2 Lead 1976
First ascent.
Reverse Disco E2 Lead Aug 1984
First ascent.
Hey Turkey Neck E2 Lead 1985
First ascent.
First ascent.

approx date
Naughty Nauticals E2 Lead 10th Oct 1985
First ascent.
Vikings in a Sea of Sweat E2 Lead | worked 16th Jun 1986
First ascent.
Walls Have Ears E2 Lead 17th Jun 1986
First ascent.
Owd Gadgee E2 Lead | worked 24th Apr 1993
First ascent.
Mister Softee E1 Lead 1973
First ascent.
Nutty Land E1 Lead | worked 1976
First ascent.
Truly Pathetic E1 Lead | worked 1976
First ascent.
Soul Searching E1 Lead 1986
First ascent.
Squeeze Your Lemon E1 Lead | worked 14th May 1986
First ascent.
The Vegas Years E1 Lead 17th Mar 1999
First ascent. With Pete Robins.
First ascent.

John's first new route, at the age of 12
Fame at Last HVS Lead | worked 1984
First ascent.
Dead Eye HVS Lead | worked 22nd Jun 1986
First ascent.
First ascent.

Allen's first new route on Curbar
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
With Simon Horrox.

Graham Hoey:

During this period he also proved his worth on big walls with a phenomenal (non-jumared) ascent in 1981 of The Nose on El Capitan with Simon Horrox in a day. Between them they lead and seconded every pitch; the first time this had ever been achieved, the locals were amazed.

John's one-day ascent started from the top of fixed ropes to Sickle Ledge, a common tactic at the time, still a very impressive ascent.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/the_day_the_music_died_-_remembering_john_allen-12803

[2] Graham Hoey, personal communication.