Lucky Chance

Second ascent.

https://www.instagram.com/p/B_CTVkbjQdl/

Second ascent.

That afternoon had gone swell, especially after making an on-sight ascent of Christmas Crack at Stanage in my socks, and goose-necking my way up Flying Buttress Direct, for another top end on-sight, I knew at that point that I was on form, so off we headed for Blackies to give myself a top rope on Hardy Fasty...

It was a windy day to say the least, but I was surprised at how good the friction was. I'd been on it previously and hadn't done it from start to finish before, but within half an hour I warmed up and had done it twice in one push. Everything felt right and I had unconsciously started preparing my mind for the ascent. But with the dying rays of light fading into the distance, time was in short supply. With my brand new offset cam for Christmas, with this route in mind, the game was on.

With a check of the gear and one final lap on a rope I knew that with any more practice I wouldn't get my chance for the lead. But it felt good and I felt good, and it was Christmas for Christ's sake! It was now or never, do or die. Nothing left but to tie in.

From the first punch over the rooflet I knew I had it in the bag, it was just a matter of time and focus till I would be standing on the top. I never feel as much in my element as when I am on the lead or solo, when my life is on the line I am never more in control. I swung into the groove at the top of the flake - the best bit about this route is this position, this moment before you pull out onto the face for the final push. In this groove I was thoughtless, never more wise, never more aware of my abilities. I knew I was going to the top, I just had to keep on moving.

So with that I pressed on, relishing every position as I knew it was the last. No maddening heartbeat, no quick breaths, only pure driven control. Nothing I have done compares to that final success. At many points throughout my achievements I have had to force excitement to feel the glory but this time I couldn't keep it from coming. That's an all right Christmas, I was thinking, now it doesn't matter how much I eat.

Yeah, it's sweet I sent it. For sure the most serious one I have done but still not all that bad really, I could definitely do much harder death routes I think! I've got a few new lines in mind to save 'till I return. People aren't rushing for the headpoints these days so I think they will be safe to leave for a while... [3]

James Pearson:

We'd been out climbing on the gritstone, it was kind of a miserable, soggy day and then the sun came out, the skys were blue and we said "Maybe Harder Faster might dry out"...Toby just completely, nonchalantly, put his gear on and set off up the route. I don't even remember him top roping it before which is completely nuts now I know what the route is like!

He was absolutely in his element. He just did it. [2]

[1] https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.143839010406318/143839783739574

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BYA6r86JALU

[3] On The Edge Issue 135, page 30

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 135, page 29

No pads or spotters!