Miles Gibson

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First ascent.

First ascent.

References

[1] On The Edge 116, page 67

First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2003/02/gardom_project_falls_to_gibson-7035

[2] On The Edge 127, page 10

First ascent.

First ascent. Belayed by Ben Heason.

I’d been on the line once or twice years ago and knew it was quality and had very hard climbing. I went on it again maybe six weeks ago and figured out a demon sequence which I thought could work. After a few more days spent working the route, in various conditions, I managed to top-rope it cleanly. Then, after a couple more warm and wet visits, (why does Wimberry seem to have its own weather system?) I hiked up to Wimberry yet again, and found that it was coolish and my skin was good (which is pretty important). I’d borrowed a slider from Johnboy for the higher gear in the starting flake. I top-roped the route a couple more times and waited for the temperature to drop a bit (to make it feel more secure). I set off on the lead, pulled up to the first pebble, thenpinch, crimp, arête, go again, then set up for the crux… ‘NO!’ it just felt wrong! I slapped down a move and jumped off. Oh well, at least the higher gear held! I think the main problem was it was getting late and I hadn’t eaten anything since breakfast, so after half a muesli bar and a few minutes rest I set off again, last chance, since it was getting dark! Bang, bang, bang… I didn’t think too much, hit the crux easy, two more flicks autopilot, that’s the hardest bit done, but man I’m scared, I want to be blank right now but I’m scared. I don’t even want to be here anymore but there’s only one way out, so I rock up, sloper, weird high feet, pull up to big pebble thing and then decent pocket, good arête, breathe, top, happy now!! [2]

References

[1] https://vimeo.com/6824917

[2] https://www.climbing.com/news/gritstone-action-at-uks-wimberry-rocks/

Miles cam close but was not able to seal the deal.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/the_last_great_problems_on_grit-8068