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References

[1] https://www.geocities.ws/readza1/climbing/gritlist/grit_e9.html

Unusually for grit the route is protected by 3 bolts...though the bolts are tiny, old aid bolts circa 1969. Pete Whittaker tested them in a fall, but probably best to avoid falling off if you can.

References

[1] https://www.geocities.ws/readza1/climbing/gritlist/grit_e9.html

Climbed the week before leaving for a year long trip to Australia.

The prow at Black Rocks is one of the most impressive and uncompromising features on gritstone and for decades was regarded as a Last Great Problem. Attention in the late ‘80s and early ‘90s focused on the prow’s left arête, with climbing said to be around 8b.

Whilst top-roping Seb Grieve on the line, Quentin Fisher suggested trying to link to a line of better holds on the right arête. With a bit of beta refinement from Dave Jones, the line of Meshuga was unlocked and Seb made his ascent in 1997. It was perhaps the boldest route on gritstone at the time, comprising unpredictable 7c climbing, a long way above a terrible landing. The name comes from the Yiddish word for Insane. [1]

Despite its boldness, it has become one of the most repeated E9s.

The left arête remains unclimbed.

Jon Read:

Not much gear until all the hard climbing is completed (though initial pocket may take a F1.5). Instead, protection would appear to take the form of several futon mattresses and a wandering clutch of Frenchmen lashed down to prevent them from running off. The landing is possibly the worst on gritstone although Neil Gresham miraculously only got concussion when he fell off the crux slap. One other thing to think about to savour the full atmosphere is that The Promontory is a historically popular suicide spot. [2]

References

[1] ‘Peak Rock’, Vertebrate Publishing, 2013.

[2] https://www.geocities.ws/readza1/climbing/gritlist/grit_e9.html

Harder Faster is the harder, scarier direct finish to Gaia.

Seb Grieve:

Very wild climbing. After the 'easy' Gaia start, paste right foot high and layback. Repeat twice and arrive at ledge. Graunchy mantle that could easily go wrong. Top roped clean several times but could not bring myself to lead.

The line between Appointment with Fear and Appointment with Death.

Kinder's first E9.

Starts up Reservoir Dogs before traversing right into the finish of Widdop Wall. Now largely superseded by the more direct Widdop Wall.

References

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,23996.msg443082.html#msg443082

One of the eight ‘last great problem’ projects listed in the Derwent Grit guide. [1]

Jerry Moffatt did all the moves, Johnny Dawes top roped it in a oner, Ron Fawcett was hovering, but it was Andy Pollitt who tied into the sharp end, jumped through the crux and wobbled through to the top – narrowly avoiding a disastrous fall when he slipped on the final sloping ledges.

The route was first climbed on the 2nd of March 1988 by Andy Pollitt and graded E9. The pre-clipped 'hand-held' peg used on the first ascent was later discovered to have actually been placed with a 'hand-held' hammer. [2]

The grade of a given ascent depends on the particular gear placements used. The first ascent and early repeats used a peg in a slot high on the left. Later repeats used a cam in a good slot at half height, though this requires a traverse to access. Some people have combined the cam and the pegs, some people have used neither!

References

[1] The others were Dharma, Gaia, End of the Affair, Kaluza Klein, Soul Doubt, The Screaming Dream and The Groove.

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2010/10/ryan_pasquill_flashes_knockin_on_heavens_door-58563

Generally considered to be a little too close Knockin' on Heaven's Door to be an independent line but recorded here for posterity.

The intent was to climb Knockin' on Heaven's Door without the peg, instead doing a little traverse and placing a small cam.

The breakdown is approximately a morpho 7B+ jump to a crimp followed by a 7A/+ and then a spicy section to the top (including a cheeky english 6a rockover). [1]

References

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,31675.msg651828.html#msg651828

Originally climbed with no pads and a single ball nut for protection. James gave it E10, believing any fall would involve hitting the ground. Subsequent ascents tested the ball nut (above pads) and found it to be better than expected with the ball nut holding around 20 falls. Based on this, grades around E7 to E8 were suggested.

Due to the falls the quality of the placement deteriorated, with Jordan Buys ripping the gear in a fall from high on the route. It is not clear how reliable the placement currently is. [1]

Now usually climbed as a highball above a big pile of pads.

References

[1] https://johnroberts.me/outdoors/2011/11/the-promise-is-it-finally-the-end-of-the-affair/

Originally led but now typically done above a big pile of mats at about 7C+. On the first ascent Jerry Moffatt took a fairly direct line at the top, whereas people typically traverse round to the right before topping out when climbing the line above pads.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2014/09/hard_summer_sends_for_feehally+varian-69176

[2] https://vimeo.com/104911142?fl=pl&fe=vl

Named after the American professional skateboarder Rodney Mullen.

Direct start to Gecko Blaster. Seb Grieve subsequently stated that Gecko Blaster did start direct.

A left start to Marvellous, via a highball 'Welford 7C' dyno.

A variation on The Zone climbing more directly in to the left side of the peapod before moving left to place skyhooks as for The Zone and then finishing as for that route.

The route lost a 'crucial' pebble in the late '90s and didn't see further ascents until 2008.

The route had previously been climbed in two parts: the bottom half as One Step Beyond Direct by Ron Fawcett, and the top as Homeward Bound by Peter Beal. Johnny combined the two to complete the natural line up the middle of the wall.

It masqueraded as an E7 for a decade or two, but the combination of sustained hard climbing and hard-to-place small gear led to an upgrade.

Relatively straightforward climbing to a 7C+ boulder problem with a wiggy fall.

First ascent placed a large hex runner in the crak of Lean Man's Climb, up which the route started, at E7 7a. Subsequently soloed by Ben Heason with a slightly more direct start, eliminating the crack at E8.

Originally given E7, but in the words of the second ascenionist Neil Kershaw:

I'm no good with grades but lets just say its more E8 than E7. In fact its more E8 than most E8's. [1]

References

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg442742.html#msg442742

John Dunne:

It is undoubtedly one of the best routes on grit, in terms of the line, the position and of course climbing. [1]

References

[1] Yorkshire Gritstone Volume 2, 2014. Page 63.

Unlikely to have been repeated since the loss of pebbles around 2002/3.

A longstanding enigma

A classic Johnny Dawes test piece. A hard move gains entry to the groove where easier climbing awaits before a terrifying finale.

As for Cool Fool but eliminating the side-runners.

So called because, while working the line, Jerry Moffatt proclaimed

only a true master could solo it onsight. [1]

Jerry was preparing for a solo ascent. Ron Fawcett found that an Edelrid Amigo [2,3] sliding nut fitted the shotholes and promptly led the route after minimal inspection.

In c.2010s a marginal slider placement was discovered in the first part of the route, taking some of the sting out of the solo to the shot holes. Around 2024/2025 someone took a fall onto the slider and blew the placement out in the process.

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 107, page 48

[2] https://www.ukhillwalking.com/photos/dbpage.php?id=416863

[3] https://needs-needlesports-gob2b.b-cdn.net/imagecache/8dae6b69-d110-410b-890c-aaf700cdd554/NutsStory510_300x198.jpg

Frequently climbed above a snow drift and a pile of pads at 7A+.

Originally climbed with a tree for protection, which has since fallen down.

The route originally had a thin peg runner at the top of the groove, providing some protection for the crux reach around the overhang. By the early 2000s it was in a poor state and by 2008 it was gone, leaving ascentionists to run it out to top a long way above the single remaining peg (replaced around 2008).

Named in memory of Rod Hull, who had recently fallen off his roof.

A historic gritstone king line, which was solved well ahead of its time by Jonny Woodward in 1982, in non-sticky boots.

The route relies on a crucial pebble to leave the half height break and enter the seam above. In the early 2000s half the pebble shattered and fell off, making the crux harder but still possible.

John Allen:

It seemed to me that it's ascent was a moment of inspiration fired by desire. A classic natural sculpture made to be climbed, but only by the best. [1]

References

[1] Extreme Rock (1987) Rear Cover /library/collection/1/extreme-rock

Originally an E5 with runners in an adjacent and tree, no longer present.

Gritstone sport climbing

Climbed in the midst of the foot-and-mouth epidemic of 2001, in which most non-urban crags were banned and 6 million cows and sheep were slaughtered and incinerated.

Superseded by Detachment Theory (E8)

Apparently named because the route is between Psycho, Adrenaline Rush and Little Cenotaph, and PAL was a dogfood at the time which contained marrowbone jelly. [1]

References

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/threads/boulder-problem-names-climbing-history.34883/post-721689

The left hand side of Curving Arete.

Named by the guidebook editor after first ascensionist James Pearson came in for criticism after snapping a pebble off Smoked Salmon.

The route climbs the wall of a wide chimney, with bridging not allowed – hence the name.

So named because the first ascent was protected with a chisel placed in a pocket. [1]

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 88, page 10

Initially climbed with side runners at E5 and called Against All Odds. Gareth Parry was the first to solo it and restored the route's working name.

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 90, page 70

A desperate bouldery route which went unrepeated for many years.

A Johnny Dawes project which he was trying ground up before Robin Barker applied his considerable talents to the problem. 7C highballing to some gear in the break and a still-tricky finish.