Adam Ondra

Instagram.com | YouTube.com | 8a.nu | IFSC-Climbing.org | adamondra.com

Quick Info

Nationality: CZ
Height: 186 cm
Weight: 70 kg
Date of birth: 5th February 1993
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8C+
Hardest Boulder (Flash): 8B+
Hardest Sport (Worked): 9c
Hardest Sport (Onsight): 9a
Hardest Sport (Flash): 9a+
Hardest Trad (Worked): E12
Hardest Trad (Onsight): E8

Adam Ondra is widely considered to be the best rock climber in the world.

He has established or repeated many of the worlds 9bs, put up the first 9b+ with Change and the first 9c with Silence. He's onsighted multiple 9as and became the first person to flash 9a+ when he climbed Super Crackinette on his first try. He is also an extremely strong boulderer with multiple ascents of boulders up to 8C+.

While his hardest ascents are notable what sets Adam apart from his contemporaries is his depth of experience. At the time of writing he has onsighted 64 8cs, 21 8c+s, 3 9as and climbed 188 routes graded 9a or harder. He has also won the world cup 7 times and the world championships 5 times.

References

[1] Adam's logbook https://www.adamondra.com/list-of-routes

[2] Interview with Magnus Midtbø, 2021 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8-5yuVuDFzU

[3] Profile in the New York Times, 2021 https://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2021/sports/olympics/adam-ondra-climbing.html

Contributors: remus

Quick Info

Nationality: CZ
Height: 186 cm
Weight: 70 kg
Date of birth: 5th February 1993
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8C+
Hardest Boulder (Flash): 8B+
Hardest Sport (Worked): 9c
Hardest Sport (Onsight): 9a
Hardest Sport (Flash): 9a+
Hardest Trad (Worked): E12
Hardest Trad (Onsight): E8

Adam Ondra is widely considered to be the best rock climber in the world.

He has established or repeated many of the worlds 9bs, put up the first 9b+ with Change and the first 9c with Silence. He's onsighted multiple 9as and became the first person to flash 9a+ when he climbed Super Crackinette on his first try. He is also an extremely strong boulderer with multiple ascents of boulders up to 8C+.

While his hardest ascents are notable what sets Adam apart from his contemporaries is his depth of experience. At the time of writing he has onsighted 64 8cs, 21 8c+s, 3 9as and climbed 188 routes graded 9a or harder. He has also won the world cup 7 times and the world championships 5 times.

References

[1] Adam's logbook https://www.adamondra.com/list-of-routes

[2] Interview with Magnus Midtbø, 2021 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8-5yuVuDFzU

[3] Profile in the New York Times, 2021 https://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2021/sports/olympics/adam-ondra-climbing.html

Contributors: remus

Lists


Podcasts


Pics + Vids

Added at 21:09 on 21 September 2023
Added at 18:11 on 15 November 2021
Disbelief (9b, FA)
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Added at 12:02 on 10 February 2021
Peščena Ura (9a)
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Added at 18:10 on 24 October 2023
El Gran Bellanco (9a)
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Added at 12:11 on 09 November 2023
Chicken Nose (9a+, FA)
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Added at 14:11 on 10 November 2023
B je to! (9b, FA)
Added at 12:11 on 13 November 2023
Terranova (8C+, FA)
Added at 07:09 on 08 September 2023
Les Temps Difficiles (8c+)
Added at 18:04 on 29 April 2024
La Planta de Shiva (9b, FA)
Added at 22:05 on 21 May 2024
La Planta de Shiva (9b, FA)
Added at 22:05 on 21 May 2024
Chilam Balam (9b, FA)
Added at 22:05 on 21 May 2024
El Maquinista (9a+, FA)
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Added at 22:11 on 15 November 2023
La Parada de los Monstruos (9a)
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Added at 22:11 on 15 November 2023
The Book of Hate (E9)
Added at 10:12 on 03 December 2023
Midnight Lightning (7B)
Added at 16:02 on 13 February 2024
Bon Voyage (E12)
Added at 06:04 on 30 April 2024
B je to! (9b, FA)
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Added at 13:09 on 29 September 2023
Chicken Nose (9a+, FA)
Added at 16:12 on 18 December 2023
El Gran Bellanco (9a)
Added at 13:01 on 08 January 2024
Just Do It (8c+)
Added at 16:01 on 08 January 2024
Ray's Roof (E7)
Added at 15:09 on 05 September 2023
Muy Verdes (8c)
Added at 08:07 on 26 July 2021
Peščena Ura (9a)
Added at 14:01 on 22 January 2024
El Maquinista (9a+, FA)
Added at 16:01 on 29 January 2024
Bon Voyage (E12)
Added at 11:03 on 18 March 2024
Vasil Vasil (9b+, FA)
Added at 14:07 on 24 July 2023
Just Do It (8c+)
Added at 18:01 on 14 January 2024
Gioia (8C+)
Added at 18:01 on 21 January 2024
Montecore (8C)
Added at 07:01 on 30 January 2024
B je to! (9b, FA)
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Added at 07:10 on 02 October 2023
Bon Voyage (E12)
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Added at 18:02 on 16 February 2024
Le Brillant Saoul (8c)
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Added at 18:02 on 16 February 2024
Luftig Kö Till Nålens Öga (8B)
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Added at 17:03 on 10 March 2024
Jade (8B+)
Added at 06:04 on 23 April 2024
Bon Voyage (E12)
Added at 15:04 on 08 April 2024
Inga (8c+)
Added at 16:06 on 03 June 2024
Don't Get Too Greedy (8B)
Added at 06:04 on 23 April 2024
La Rambla Extension (9a+)
Added at 13:07 on 15 July 2023
Concepción (E8)
Added at 07:07 on 21 July 2023
Chiave della Volta (9a, FA)
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Added at 18:10 on 11 October 2023
Silence (9c, FA)
Added at 17:12 on 18 December 2020
Change (9b+, FA)
Added at 17:12 on 18 December 2020
Just Do It (8c+)
Added at 18:12 on 18 December 2020
Robin úd (9b, FA)
Added at 18:12 on 18 December 2020
Gioia (8C+)
Added at 18:12 on 18 December 2020
Eagle-4 (9b, FA)
Added at 18:12 on 18 December 2020
Chaxiraxi (9b, FA)
Added at 18:12 on 18 December 2020
Fight or Flight (9b)
Added at 21:02 on 01 February 2021
Rainman (9b)
Added at 14:02 on 02 February 2021
Fat Lip (8B)
Added at 14:03 on 06 March 2023
The Ace (8B)
Added at 14:03 on 06 March 2023
Careless Torque (8A)
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Added at 19:01 on 22 January 2023
Weiße Rose (9a)
Added at 19:07 on 08 July 2021
Meiose (9a+)
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Added at 06:10 on 05 October 2021
Pohár Nesmrtelnosti (Prodloužení) (8C, FA)
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Added at 10:11 on 24 November 2022
The Ace (8B)
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Added at 17:01 on 24 January 2023
El Potro (9a, FA)
Added at 12:03 on 15 March 2021
Nordic Flower (8c)
Added at 08:07 on 26 July 2021
Belly Full of Bad Berries (E8)
Added at 17:08 on 31 August 2021
Molekuly (9a+, FA)
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Added at 20:10 on 31 October 2021
Kout Pikle (9a+, FA)
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Added at 19:12 on 19 December 2021
Water World (9a)
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Added at 18:11 on 28 November 2022
La Ley Indignata (9a)
Added at 05:05 on 27 May 2021
Super Crackinette (9a+)
Added at 16:06 on 30 June 2021
The Dawn Wall (9a)
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Added at 09:02 on 26 February 2023
Il Domani (9a)
Added at 21:04 on 05 April 2021
La Rambla Extension (9a+)
Added at 09:07 on 03 July 2021
Los Revolucionarios (9a, FA)
Added at 09:10 on 25 October 2021
Southern Smoke Direct (9a)
Added at 06:07 on 05 July 2021
Gecko Assis (8B+)
Added at 06:07 on 05 July 2021
Overshadow (9a+)
Added at 07:07 on 05 July 2021
Move (9b+, FA)
Added at 14:12 on 24 December 2021
Kout Pikle (9a+, FA)
Added at 18:12 on 29 December 2021
Neanderthal (9b)
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Added at 08:02 on 09 February 2022
Trofeo dell’Adriatico (9a+, FA)
Added at 17:02 on 10 February 2022
Wonderland (9b, FA)
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Added at 17:03 on 23 March 2022
Terranova (8C+, FA)
Added at 16:04 on 01 April 2022
Goosfraba (8c+)
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Added at 20:04 on 02 April 2022
The Assassin (9a)
Added at 15:04 on 07 April 2022
Water World (9a)
Added at 16:03 on 20 March 2023
Martin Krpan (9a)
Added at 05:05 on 07 May 2023
Zvěřinec (9b+, FA)
Added at 13:02 on 15 February 2023
Open Air (9a+)
Added at 10:05 on 07 May 2023
Vasil Vasil (9b+, FA)
Added at 12:08 on 25 August 2022
Vasil Vasil (9b+, FA)
Added at 12:08 on 25 August 2022
Zvěřinec (9b+, FA)
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Added at 18:11 on 20 November 2022
Stoking the Fire (9b)
Added at 15:04 on 08 April 2022
Bombardino (9a+, FA)
Added at 15:04 on 11 April 2022
Bomba (9b, FA)
Added at 15:04 on 11 April 2022
Solitary Souls (8c+)
Added at 13:05 on 26 May 2022
Wonderland (9b, FA)
Added at 17:06 on 29 June 2022
Iron Curtain (9b, FA)
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Added at 14:07 on 13 July 2022
Iron Curtain (9b, FA)
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Added at 14:07 on 13 July 2022
A je to! (9a+, FA)
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Added at 21:08 on 31 August 2023

Ascents

175 recorded ascents.

This timeline is missing some ascents where the date of the ascent is unknown. Use the other tabs to view these ascents.
Year Climb Grade Style Ascent Date
2006 Martin Krpan 9a Lead | worked 11th Nov 2006
2007 Estado Crítico 9a Lead | worked 7th Feb 2007
Third go.

Adam suggested 8c+ at the time but after a subsequent ascent of Golpe de Estado he said it could warrant 9a due to some hold breakages.

Travesía de la Enmienda 8c+ Lead | worked 16th Feb 2007
Fourth go.
Silbergeier 8b+ Lead | worked 27th Jul 2007

Aged just 14!

2008 Fuck the System 9a Lead | worked 6th Feb 2008
La Rambla Extension 9a+ Lead | worked 10th Feb 2008
Fifth go.

5th go, without resting hold [although] it is nonsense to consider it as prohibited

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LdbKjPUDJVY

[2] Interview with Niall Grimes on Jam Crack Podcast, June 2023 https://open.spotify.com/episode/2UiXy1sBEaPTodNUnYwnux?si=a27f975d748a4930

Dreamtime (pre break) 8B+ Boulder | worked 23rd Mar 2008
1 session.

In 4 hours!

Least Resistance 8c Lead | onsight 6th Jul 2008
WoGü 8c Lead | worked 26th Jul 2008
Weiße Rose 9a Lead | worked 13th Sep 2008
Second ascent.

Adam suggested it could even be 9a+:

Yess! very solid for that grade in my opinion, with good conditions much better, maybe 9a+ I do not know

References

https://www.facebook.com/adamondraofficial/photos/pcb.3877426219004530/3877402072340278/

Open Air 9a+ Lead | worked 17th Nov 2008
Second ascent.

A bit harder than Weiße Rose, so 9a+ should be appropriate I hope, when Alex Huber did it, Action Directe considered as 8c+ , then 9a for this one was OK. Now when AD is 9a, this should be 9a+.

References

[1] https://www.climbing.com/news/groundbreaking-515-gets-second-ascent/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPh7742FS5Q

2009 Corona 9a+ Lead | worked 2009
Los Revolucionarios 9a Lead | worked May 2009
First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H8VQ4GSDh-c

Om 9a Lead | worked 14th Jun 2009
Second ascent.
Sedni Si Na Kost 8B+ Boulder | worked 16th Sep 2009
First ascent.
Marina Superstar 9a+ Lead | worked 20th Oct 2009
First ascent.

So happy to have some really hard FA! Well, I am not sure about the grade. Definately my hardest yet, but probably not 9b, thus I go for 9a+/b. I have to try more routes from Chris to compare. Beautiful line 35m line in very steep cave.

The Dagger 8B Boulder | worked 18th Dec 2009
Confessions 8B Boulder | flash 20th Dec 2009

Well, 8B+ flash sounds amazing but I can't put as 8B+, it was all too simple compared to The Dagger or La Proue. I just gave it go without expecting anything and suddenly I was on the top and did not find it very hard. But I do not say it can't be 8B+, it might have been pretty much my style or I don't know... To flash The Vice was much more difficult for me. see Martin's comment as well.

2010 A Present For the Future 9a Lead | worked 2nd Jan 2010
First ascent.
Golpe de Estado 9b Lead | worked 13th Mar 2010

From Adam's 8a.nu logbook:

HUGE relief for me, mission accomplished despite various obstacles - notoriously strong wind, injury, flu and stomach ache just before the second trip (thus I was out of shape). After first day in the route I did not expect I would have to dedicate so much time, but proved to be really hard and mischevious. 29 tries (mental torture for me!) during 14 days, but some days only go when I found out it is just too windy to climb at 6th bolt. I do not say it is hard 9b after breaking the hold, but 100% it is 9b now (a bit harder than Marina).

Totally Free II 8b Lead | onsight 29th Apr 2010
Austrian Oak 8b Lead | onsight 29th Apr 2010
Magnetic Fields 8b Lead | onsight 29th Apr 2010
North Star 9a Lead | worked 2nd May 2010
Second ascent. Fourth go.

4th go, normal 9a for tall [people], harder for short ones

Northern Lights 9a Lead | worked 3rd May 2010
Second ascent.
Full Tilt 8b Lead | onsight 3rd May 2010

Narrowly missed out on onsighting True North when he dropped the last boulder problem.

Mandela 8a+ Lead | onsight 3rd May 2010
PPP 9a Lead | worked 7th Aug 2010
First ascent.
L'étrange Ivresse des Lenteurs 9a+ Lead | worked 4th Sep 2010
First ascent.
From Dirt Grows the Flowers 8C Boulder | worked 30th Nov 2010
2011 Chaxi 9a+ Lead | worked 2011
First ascent.
La Capella 9b Lead | worked 16th Feb 2011
First ascent.
Kidetasunaren Balio Erantsia 8c+ Lead | onsight 6th Mar 2011
Bizi Euskaraz Extension 8c+ Lead | onsight 7th Mar 2011
Obrint el Sistema 9a+ Lead | worked 14th Mar 2011
First ascent. 2 sessions. Fifth go.
Mind Control 8c Lead | onsight 20th Mar 2011
La Planta de Shiva 9b Lead | worked 7th Apr 2011
Chilam Balam 9b Lead | worked 13th Apr 2011
First ascent.

Adam suggested low 9b, while acknowledging that he did the route quickly and wasn't too sure on the grade.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oTGsRIjyVBE

La Rubia 8c+ Lead | onsight 13th Apr 2011

The same day as Chilam Balam!

Overshadow 9a+ Lead | worked 16th May 2011
Bat Route 8c Lead | onsight 16th May 2011

The first 8c to be onsighted in the UK.

Rainshadow 9a Lead | worked 17th May 2011
Second ascent.

Honestly one of the best climbs I have done, only Raindogs could be less polished

5 Uve 8c Lead | onsight 27th Jun 2011
First ascent.
Era Vella 9a Lead | worked 30th Jul 2011
Second go.
Monkey Wedding 8C Boulder | worked 14th Aug 2011
Perlorodka 9a+ Lead | worked 6th Sep 2011
First ascent.

Finally it is done! Great line, one of the best lines at home and feels great to send the line I have been walking around for years and thought of it as impossible. Possibly the route I spent the most time on, but once you are at your home crag, you don't bother with the tries even when you are tired. So great to send both of my projects the same day! 8a + no-hand rest + 7Cboulder + rest + 8B+ boulder (12 moves) + 7B+ mantle onto the ledge [1]

References

[1] https://www.8a.nu/crags/sportclimbing/czech-republic/holstejn-mor-kras/sectors/lidomorna/routes/perlorodka/

Practice of the Wild 8B+ Boulder | worked 1st Oct 2011
Terranova 8C+ Boulder | worked 10th Nov 2011
First ascent.

For sure, for many boulderers it would not be motivating at all. But I had my dream-holds, that kept circling in my mind, I kept wondering if there was a way to traverse this part of the wall. And also I had a project close to my home, with good conditions even if it is 18 degrees outside (fresh breeze from inside the cave, additionally limestone is not aggressive for skin). [2]

References

[1] https://youtu.be/QeR47AQ05Jo?t=71

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2011/11/8c+boulder_by_ondra_updated-_comments_from_adam-64987

[3] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/adam-ondra-frees-terranova-8c-.html

Big Paw 8B+ Boulder | worked 29th Nov 2011
Gioia 8C+ Boulder | worked 6th Dec 2011
Second ascent.

A fairy-tale end of physical and mental battle, spent 11 days in total on this problem, the same as on Terranova, therefore I go for 8C+ from the same reasons. Thumbs up Christian [Core] for the vision and excitement to keep trying over and over again, I knew it is possible, Christian saw just a piece of incredible impossible-looking rock.

On the grade:

Well every single move is at the very limit and so I do think it's 8C+. I'd compare it in difficulty to Terranova. If you were to give this 8C, then the bouldering grades wouldn't make much sense anymore. You'd have to downgrade all the 8B+ and most of the 8C's as well. When Christian [Core] sent the problem he thought it could be 8C+, but he first suggested 8C to play things safe. I can only congratulate him for this superb ascent three years ago. [2]

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QeR47AQ05Jo

[2] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/adam-ondra-the-pure-gioia-interview.html

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tMNZGPnwve4

Gecko Assis 8B+ Boulder | flash 11th Dec 2011

A notorious dilemma with the grade, fits perfectly my style, height and conditions were awesome. But the second climbing day, a bit tired and not fully on the limit. I would love to record it as 8B+, but it just did not feel like 8B+... that is my feeling

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O1BEILGQoWQ

2012 Joe-Cita 9a Lead | worked 20th Apr 2012
First ascent.

Most of the climb was onsight or flash, except the end of second pitch of Marroncita (8b).

Jungle Boogie 9a+ Lead | worked 5th Jun 2012
First ascent.
Eye of Odin 8c+ Lead | onsight Jul 2012
Thor's Hammer 9a Lead | worked 8th Jul 2012
First ascent.

Adam initially said 9a+ but later suggested 9a was more appropriate after new beta and some kneebars were found.

Nordic Flower 8c Lead | onsight 9th Jul 2012

Putting the draws in!

Climbing with 30 draws at the beginning felt like hell! That was the crux for me. [1]

References

[1] https://vimeo.com/109956376

Muy Verdes 8c Lead | onsight 11th Jul 2012
The Vice 8B Boulder | flash 30th Jul 2012
Change 9b+ Lead | worked 4th Oct 2012
First ascent.

The first 9b+ in the world.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V0uesTSgMys

Southern Smoke Direct 9a Lead | flash 29th Oct 2012
Pure Imagination 8c+ Lead | onsight 2nd Nov 2012

The same day as Adam onsighted The Golden Ticket.

The Golden Ticket 8c+ Lead | onsight 2nd Nov 2012
2013 Power Inverter 9a+ Lead | worked 25th Jan 2013
La Dura Dura 9b+ Lead | worked 7th Feb 2013
First ascent.

The second 9b+ in the world. Bolted by Chris Sharma, the pair worked the line together until Adam made the first ascent. Chris made the second ascent shortly afterwards making it the world's first confirmed 9b+.

Fight or Flight 9b Lead | worked 10th Feb 2013
Chaxiraxi 9b Lead | worked 27th Mar 2013
First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uWZyvzzPXlU

Der Lange Atem 9a Lead | worked 29th Jun 2013
Cabane au Canada 9a Lead | onsight 9th Jul 2013

Long-term dream came true when I did not even expect it. I travelled to this incredible area, thinking that the route would be pretty dirty and abandoned after a long winter, but I found it perfectly cleaned with the draws hanging in. I admit that it is definitely not hard 9a, it definitely rather lower end, but it fits my style, I felt in very decent shape and I fought hard! For the first time in my life, I onsighted a route which had been suggested 9a and I could honestly believe that it could be in the 9a region. For all the others it was simply not case, even though it is very hard to judge it while you are onsighting. Beautiful moment and experience in the early morning session in some of the most breathtaking sportclimbing-wall I have ever seen.

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/adam-ondra-9a-onsight-at-rawyl-in-switzerland.html

Iron Curtain 9b Lead | worked 3rd Aug 2013
First ascent.

9b standard for me? I wish! No, 9b is still a really hard route, certainly not something I would do in an afternoon without too much effort. To tell the truth with Iron Curtain I thought the process would be quite easy and quick. I felt super strong, on the way to Flatanger I had just fired a 9a project called Purgatory at Hell (an area close to Trondheim) on my 2nd go, and the first day on Iron Curtain felt good. But how wrong I was!

Bad conditions arrived and I discovered that the crux holds were completely wet due to condensation. Conditions improved, but were far from perfect and it's hard to climb a route this hard in bad conditions, there is no margin for mistakes and I kept making them... In the end, after some days trying, an extremely strong wind made me go up into the cave yet again despite wanting to take the afternoon off and I sent this perfect line.

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/adam-ondra-frees-new-9b-at-flatanger-in-norway.html

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/-JGf-oAumJ/

[3] https://www.instagram.com/p/7AJU5ugugO/

Move 9b+ Lead | worked 20th Aug 2013
First ascent.

9b/b+ or just HARD 9b. Took me 2 weeks and half, while feeling strong and with bomber conditions. This route was hard for me, one my hardest, though Change is probably harder to repeat, as it fits my style WAY MORE. [1]

[1] https://www.8a.nu/crags/sportclimbing/norway/flatanger/sectors/hanshallaren/routes/move

[2] https://vimeo.com/73040942

Kangaroo's Limb 9a+ Lead | worked 21st Sep 2013
First ascent.
Sviní Mor 8B Boulder | worked 29th Sep 2013
First ascent.
Vasil Vasil 9b+ Lead | worked 4th Dec 2013
First ascent.

From Adam's 8a.nu logbook:

2 years and 20-25 days on this thing. It is definitely not mega line, it is painful, short and in dirty place. But it was there, I bolted it 5 years ago and I couldn't leave it unclimbed. It is basically one-mover. 7 meters of burly 8b route into hard boulder problem, which is 8B+ on itself for sure. One single move is at least 8B. Very frustrating process of making no progression for long days, but when it finally happened, on super cold sticky day, it felt like nothing. In a short moment it was all over. Short, but LONG awaited moment. I am so happy.

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/adam-ondra-and-vasil-vasil-the-third-9b-interview.html

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/12/vasil_vasil_new_9b+_by_ondra-68562

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bw2I0nI8FLA

2014 First Round, First Minute 9b Lead | worked 3rd Feb 2014
Il Domani 9a Lead | onsight 4th May 2014

Been waiting for this for such long time, saving for an onsight. Almost tried last year in less than ideal conditions, but the decision I made was good. Today everything was perfect, awesome [temps] and well rested, and that was just enough to send this beautiful route. Sooo happy. My hardest onsight ever 4sure. [1]

[1] https://www.8a.nu/crags/sportclimbing/spain/baltzola/sectors/la-cueva/routes/il-domani

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qA8Bjp4SOkA

Le Super Plafond 8c+ Lead | onsight 6th Jul 2014
TCT 9a Lead | onsight 11th Jul 2014
Chromosone Y 8c+ Lead | flash 13th Dec 2014
2015 Rock Fucks 8b+ Lead | onsight 11th Feb 2015
Necessary Evil 8c+ Lead | worked 24th Feb 2015
Second go.
Jade 8B+ Boulder | flash 7th Jun 2015

Surreal moment of flashing this problem. I did right before heading out to the airport, with little time to rest after the massive hike. But I was motivated by the good crew and just executed it perfectly. Despite two days of world cup before, i felt strong and with perfect skin,all you need for this boulder problem. Super happy. Thank you Dave [Graham] for the beta [2]

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Ghu8PigrTI

[2] https://www.8a.nu/crags/bouldering/united-states/upper-chaos/sectors/unknown-sector-e4601/routes/jade-5d01f/

Don't Get Too Greedy 8B Boulder | flash 7th Jun 2015
Three Degrees of Separation 9a Lead | worked 21st Jul 2015
Classified 9a Lead | worked 28th Sep 2015
C.R.S. 9b Lead | worked 2nd Nov 2015
First ascent.

What a moment! Extremely satisfying ascent, nice to feel the progression on the real rock. This route bolted from Seb Bouin is just ultimate power endurance testpiece, combining desperately physical overhang with extremely thin holds on the very top. Last try, last day, 3 days in total and 1 try two years ago. Never did the "real" 9b so fast, not even close:-) This cliff (close to St Leger) is the future, ranked number 2 after Flatanger for me in terms of 9b's and more...and it is not secret spot any more...

2016 Stoking the Fire 9b Lead | worked 19th Feb 2016
Vicious Circle 9a+ Lead | worked 25th Mar 2016
Hyper Finale 9a+ Lead | worked 17th Jul 2016
First ascent.
Robin úd 9b Lead | worked 5th Oct 2016
The Dawn Wall 9a Lead | worked 22nd Nov 2016
Second ascent. With Pavel Blažek.

A hugely impressive effort over 8 days, especially given Adam's relative lack of big wall experience at the time.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CpDX4qKsxfU/

[2] https://stara.emontana.cz/adam-ondra-dawn-wall-interview/

2017 Mamichula 9b Lead | worked 2nd Feb 2017
First ascent.
Pachamama 9a+ Lead | worked 3rd Feb 2017
Queen Line 9b Lead | worked 18th Apr 2017
First ascent.
Lapsus 9a+ Lead | worked 20th Apr 2017
Kráter 8C Boulder | worked 24th Jun 2017
First ascent.
Move Hard 9b Lead | worked 10th Jul 2017
First ascent.
Silence 9c Lead | worked 3rd Sep 2017
First ascent.

The first 9c in the world and a new benchmark in sport climbing. Adam spent a lot of time training specifically for the route, going as far as to strengthen his calves so he could get a better rest out of the kneebars.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZRTNHDd0gL8

One Slap 9b Lead | worked 13th Nov 2017
First ascent.
Climb Free 9a Lead | worked 30th Nov 2017
First ascent.
2018 Concepción E8 Lead | onsight 2018
Meiose 9a+ Lead | worked 27th Jan 2018
Second ascent.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/BepiiOxlmfe/

La Castagne 9a+ Lead | worked 2nd Feb 2018
First ascent.
Super Crackinette 9a+ Lead | flash 10th Feb 2018

The first ever flash of a 9a+ route.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b6OvrRbGU68

Eagle-4 9b Lead | worked 13th Feb 2018
First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eTjZ2JHJDJo

Stone Butterfly 9a+ Lead | worked 15th May 2018
First ascent.
Tekuté Štěstí 8C Boulder | worked 24th Jun 2018
Disbelief 9b Lead | worked 20th Jul 2018
First ascent.

From Adam's 8a.nu logbook:

Project from Calgary climber Josh Muller who worked on it quite a bit and actually did all the moves! Took me 8 days of effort, mental battle with one low percentage. In the end, I think it is pretty high-end 9b, but I do not have the courtage to call it 9b+. 7C+ into 8C boulder without any rest into easy finish.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BlgEjHZhvxz/

Midnight Lightning 7B Boulder | flash 30th Oct 2018
The Book of Hate E9 Lead | worked Nov 2018
White Wedding 8b+ Lead | onsight 7th Nov 2018

First OS ascent of the route.

Scarface 8b+ Lead | onsight 7th Nov 2018
The Assassin 9a Lead | worked 9th Nov 2018
Just Do It 8c+ Lead | onsight 10th Nov 2018

An incredible onsight given the technical nature of the climbing.

A dream :-)

Alan Watts, prolific Smith Rock developer and equipper of Just Do It, talking to Adam after watching his onsight:

Wow! That was the best thing I've ever seen in climbing! In 45 years that's the best thing I've ever seen. [3]

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S6floyyDP-w

[2] https://open.spotify.com/episode/3zSBUkgNGh7ij0a81Z664n?

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xeDECxrxUnE

Badman 8b+ Lead | onsight 10th Nov 2018

First OS and on the same day as his Just Do It OS!

https://gripped.com/news/adam-ondra-wraps-smith-trip-project-attempt/

Belly Full of Bad Berries E8 Lead | worked 15th Nov 2018
2019 Catxasa 9a+ Lead | worked 8th Feb 2019
Neanderthal 9b Lead | worked 12th Feb 2019

8 years after first trying the line!

There are not many routes that I can tell about that I really hated then at certain point. But Neanderthal was definitely one of them. Not because the route is of bad quality, just because how many times I failed again and again. Getting over it and finally succeeding was a huge lesson.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BtyS3XHhnRE/

Qui 9a+ Lead | worked 19th Sep 2019
Second ascent.

2nd ascent after 23 year, FA Stefan Fürst in 1996. It took me over 10 years and roughly 10 days. 1st day this year. Stefan gave it 9a, possibly something have broken, but very possibly it has not got much harder due to breaks. I believe it is more 9a+ now, even though the crux is very hard to grade. The difficulty is not to be underestimated as the first 8c section is surprisingly tiring and makes the crux so much harder. [1]

References

[1] Adam's comments on 8a.nu.

Ghost Rider 8C Boulder | worked 24th Sep 2019
Pučmeloun 8C Boulder | worked 14th Nov 2019
First ascent.
Nunavut 8C Boulder | worked 14th Nov 2019
First ascent.
Intensitos 8B Boulder | worked 14th Nov 2019
First ascent.
2020 Warmduscher 8c+ Lead | onsight 2020

If you asked me what was last year’s best sport-climbing achievement for me 🙏, I would probably reply “Warmduscher”.

References

[1] https://www.emontana-magazine.com/adam-ondra-onsight-warmduscher/

Iceberg 8C Boulder | worked 23rd Apr 2020
Ledoborec 8C+ Boulder | worked 24th May 2020
First ascent.
Brutal Rider 8C+ Boulder | worked 25th May 2020
First ascent.

In total it has 25 hard moves and could as well be 9b sport route.

https://www.8a.nu/crags/bouldering/czech-republic/sloup/sectors/stre-skaly/routes/brutal-rider

Directa Rodillar 8c+ Lead | worked 6th Nov 2020
First ascent.
La Ley Indignata 9a Lead | worked 9th Nov 2020
Les Massey Ferguson 8b+ Lead | onsight 29th Dec 2020
2021 Molekuly 9a+ Lead | worked 26th Oct 2021
Erebor 9b Lead | worked 9th Nov 2021
Third ascent. 4 sessions.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/tv/CWG3br6jcrn/

Kout Pikle 9a+ Lead | worked 18th Dec 2021
Taurus 9b Lead | worked 23rd Dec 2021
First ascent.

The first 9 moves are surely an 8C+ boulder problem and if I consider it a boulder problem, it is probably the one that took me the most time ever.

https://www.instagram.com/tv/CX9H55-hS7M/

The Lonely Mountain 9b Lead | worked 28th Dec 2021
Second ascent.
2022 La Furia de Jabali 9a+ Lead | worked 19th Jan 2022
Trofeo dell’Adriatico 9a+ Lead | worked 27th Jan 2022
First ascent.

References

[1] https://youtu.be/EaBQGIsIZfs?t=600

Bombardino 9a+ Lead | worked 23rd Feb 2022
First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ioAg56vEJsc

Bomba 9b Lead | worked 2nd Mar 2022
First ascent.

One of the most epic moments of my climbing! Very unexpected. I though it would be 9b+, but unfortunately after only few days of work it cannot be 9b+. Very bouldery, very reachy and very crimpy. Love it! Definitely upper end of 9b in my opinion.

https://www.instagram.com/tv/CanI9WVuini/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ioAg56vEJsc

Solitary Souls 8c+ Lead | onsight 12th Mar 2022
Wonderland 9b Lead | worked 22nd Mar 2022
First ascent.

Probably 9b/b+. Hard bouldery start (8c route) into very good kneebar, then power endurance into hard crux (8A+ boulder?), easier sustained finish where is is possible to mess up. Probably the hardest in Arco.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CbdFJrHKs3t/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-hKEyyi0F_c

Goosfraba 8c+ Lead | flash 29th Mar 2022
Zvěřinec 9b+ Lead | worked 20th Nov 2022
Pohár Nesmrtelnosti (Prodloužení) 8C Boulder | worked 23rd Nov 2022
Water World 9a Lead | onsight 28th Nov 2022
2023 Ray's Roof E7 Lead | ground up 2023
Fat Lip 8B Boulder | worked Jan 2023
The Ace 8B Boulder | flash 22nd Jan 2023

Freak moment! Executed just perfectly! Thanks for the beta Will and Leon for beta, and extra psyche by the legend himself Jerry [Moffatt] and Magnus [Midtbø]!

Jerry Moffatt:

That was fucking awesome! [2]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/Cnzog4ZoynB/

[2] https://youtu.be/xe8PeQgbvEs?t=939

Careless Torque 8A Boulder | worked 22nd Jan 2023
Radar Ez 8c+ Lead | onsight 20th Feb 2023
Ain't Sane in the Membrane 8c Lead | worked 17th Mar 2023
First ascent.
Chiave della Volta 9a Lead | worked Aug 2023
First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CyQf3QHvCmK/=

A je to! 9a+ Lead | worked 31st Aug 2023
First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/reel/Cwkf_8WMdKW/=

B je to! 9b Lead | worked 28th Sep 2023
Fantazija 9a+ Lead | worked 1st Oct 2023
First ascent.
Kingslayer 8c Lead | onsight 1st Oct 2023
Inferno do Vrha 8c Lead | onsight 1st Oct 2023
Peščena Ura 9a Lead | flash 23rd Oct 2023
Chicken Nose 9a+ Lead | worked 4th Nov 2023
Les Temps Difficiles 8c+ Lead | worked 5th Nov 2023
El Gran Bellanco 9a Lead | onsight 8th Nov 2023
La Parada de los Monstruos 9a Lead | worked 11th Nov 2023

Adam was on for a good onsight burn, but while resting in a kneebar the edge of the hold he was kneebarring snapped. He held the swing, but his leg was tangled in the rope so he decided the ascent was compromised and dropped off.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CzrTgpyo-IE/

El Maquinista 9a+ Lead | worked 12th Nov 2023
2024 Inga 8c+ Lead | worked 9th Feb 2024
Le Brillant Saoul 8c Lead | onsight 11th Feb 2024
Bon Voyage E12 Lead | worked 14th Feb 2024
Second ascent. 3 sessions.

It is hands down one of the best routes I have ever climbed, and it is a true miracle that there are just enough holds to make it climbable and enough gear to make it runout, but safe. Gradewise, I think if it was bolted, it would be very solid and specific 9a 👊 Placing the gear makes it a little more physically difficult and adds some extra spice 😎 [1]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C3avZHUsI0E/

[2] James Pearson discussing Adam's ascent with Tom Randall on the Lattice Training Podcast, March 2024 https://open.spotify.com/episode/1m4Ic7DIEiuL6AE4gb3XXN?

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ji4At78H5Ys

[4] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dQfW-hnmaf0

Narcissus 9a Lead | worked 17th Feb 2024
Third ascent? Second go.
Luftig Kö Till Nålens Öga 8B Boulder | flash Mar 2024
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Silence 9c Lead | worked 3rd Sep 2017 9c
First ascent.

The first 9c in the world and a new benchmark in sport climbing. Adam spent a lot of time training specifically for the route, going as far as to strengthen his calves so he could get a better rest out of the kneebars.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZRTNHDd0gL8

Change 9b+ Lead | worked 4th Oct 2012 9b+
First ascent.

The first 9b+ in the world.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V0uesTSgMys

La Dura Dura 9b+ Lead | worked 7th Feb 2013
First ascent.

The second 9b+ in the world. Bolted by Chris Sharma, the pair worked the line together until Adam made the first ascent. Chris made the second ascent shortly afterwards making it the world's first confirmed 9b+.

Move 9b+ Lead | worked 20th Aug 2013 9b/9b+
First ascent.

9b/b+ or just HARD 9b. Took me 2 weeks and half, while feeling strong and with bomber conditions. This route was hard for me, one my hardest, though Change is probably harder to repeat, as it fits my style WAY MORE. [1]

[1] https://www.8a.nu/crags/sportclimbing/norway/flatanger/sectors/hanshallaren/routes/move

[2] https://vimeo.com/73040942

Vasil Vasil 9b+ Lead | worked 4th Dec 2013 9b+
First ascent.

From Adam's 8a.nu logbook:

2 years and 20-25 days on this thing. It is definitely not mega line, it is painful, short and in dirty place. But it was there, I bolted it 5 years ago and I couldn't leave it unclimbed. It is basically one-mover. 7 meters of burly 8b route into hard boulder problem, which is 8B+ on itself for sure. One single move is at least 8B. Very frustrating process of making no progression for long days, but when it finally happened, on super cold sticky day, it felt like nothing. In a short moment it was all over. Short, but LONG awaited moment. I am so happy.

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/adam-ondra-and-vasil-vasil-the-third-9b-interview.html

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/12/vasil_vasil_new_9b+_by_ondra-68562

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bw2I0nI8FLA

Zvěřinec 9b+ Lead | worked 20th Nov 2022 9b+ (hard)
La Capella 9b Lead | worked 16th Feb 2011 9a+
First ascent.
La Planta de Shiva 9b Lead | worked 7th Apr 2011
Chilam Balam 9b Lead | worked 13th Apr 2011 9b (soft)
First ascent.

Adam suggested low 9b, while acknowledging that he did the route quickly and wasn't too sure on the grade.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oTGsRIjyVBE

Chaxiraxi 9b Lead | worked 27th Mar 2013
First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uWZyvzzPXlU

Iron Curtain 9b Lead | worked 3rd Aug 2013 9b
First ascent.

9b standard for me? I wish! No, 9b is still a really hard route, certainly not something I would do in an afternoon without too much effort. To tell the truth with Iron Curtain I thought the process would be quite easy and quick. I felt super strong, on the way to Flatanger I had just fired a 9a project called Purgatory at Hell (an area close to Trondheim) on my 2nd go, and the first day on Iron Curtain felt good. But how wrong I was!

Bad conditions arrived and I discovered that the crux holds were completely wet due to condensation. Conditions improved, but were far from perfect and it's hard to climb a route this hard in bad conditions, there is no margin for mistakes and I kept making them... In the end, after some days trying, an extremely strong wind made me go up into the cave yet again despite wanting to take the afternoon off and I sent this perfect line.

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/adam-ondra-frees-new-9b-at-flatanger-in-norway.html

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/-JGf-oAumJ/

[3] https://www.instagram.com/p/7AJU5ugugO/

C.R.S. 9b Lead | worked 2nd Nov 2015
First ascent.

What a moment! Extremely satisfying ascent, nice to feel the progression on the real rock. This route bolted from Seb Bouin is just ultimate power endurance testpiece, combining desperately physical overhang with extremely thin holds on the very top. Last try, last day, 3 days in total and 1 try two years ago. Never did the "real" 9b so fast, not even close:-) This cliff (close to St Leger) is the future, ranked number 2 after Flatanger for me in terms of 9b's and more...and it is not secret spot any more...

Robin úd 9b Lead | worked 5th Oct 2016
Mamichula 9b Lead | worked 2nd Feb 2017
First ascent.
Queen Line 9b Lead | worked 18th Apr 2017
First ascent.
Move Hard 9b Lead | worked 10th Jul 2017 9b
First ascent.
One Slap 9b Lead | worked 13th Nov 2017
First ascent.
Eagle-4 9b Lead | worked 13th Feb 2018
First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eTjZ2JHJDJo

Disbelief 9b Lead | worked 20th Jul 2018 9b (hard)
First ascent.

From Adam's 8a.nu logbook:

Project from Calgary climber Josh Muller who worked on it quite a bit and actually did all the moves! Took me 8 days of effort, mental battle with one low percentage. In the end, I think it is pretty high-end 9b, but I do not have the courtage to call it 9b+. 7C+ into 8C boulder without any rest into easy finish.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BlgEjHZhvxz/

Taurus 9b Lead | worked 23rd Dec 2021
First ascent.

The first 9 moves are surely an 8C+ boulder problem and if I consider it a boulder problem, it is probably the one that took me the most time ever.

https://www.instagram.com/tv/CX9H55-hS7M/

Bomba 9b Lead | worked 2nd Mar 2022 9b (hard)
First ascent.

One of the most epic moments of my climbing! Very unexpected. I though it would be 9b+, but unfortunately after only few days of work it cannot be 9b+. Very bouldery, very reachy and very crimpy. Love it! Definitely upper end of 9b in my opinion.

https://www.instagram.com/tv/CanI9WVuini/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ioAg56vEJsc

Wonderland 9b Lead | worked 22nd Mar 2022 9b/9b+
First ascent.

Probably 9b/b+. Hard bouldery start (8c route) into very good kneebar, then power endurance into hard crux (8A+ boulder?), easier sustained finish where is is possible to mess up. Probably the hardest in Arco.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CbdFJrHKs3t/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-hKEyyi0F_c

B je to! 9b Lead | worked 28th Sep 2023
Golpe de Estado 9b Lead | worked 13th Mar 2010

From Adam's 8a.nu logbook:

HUGE relief for me, mission accomplished despite various obstacles - notoriously strong wind, injury, flu and stomach ache just before the second trip (thus I was out of shape). After first day in the route I did not expect I would have to dedicate so much time, but proved to be really hard and mischevious. 29 tries (mental torture for me!) during 14 days, but some days only go when I found out it is just too windy to climb at 6th bolt. I do not say it is hard 9b after breaking the hold, but 100% it is 9b now (a bit harder than Marina).

Fight or Flight 9b Lead | worked 10th Feb 2013
First Round, First Minute 9b Lead | worked 3rd Feb 2014 9b
Stoking the Fire 9b Lead | worked 19th Feb 2016
Neanderthal 9b Lead | worked 12th Feb 2019

8 years after first trying the line!

There are not many routes that I can tell about that I really hated then at certain point. But Neanderthal was definitely one of them. Not because the route is of bad quality, just because how many times I failed again and again. Getting over it and finally succeeding was a huge lesson.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BtyS3XHhnRE/

Erebor 9b Lead | worked 9th Nov 2021 9b
Third ascent. 4 sessions.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/tv/CWG3br6jcrn/

The Lonely Mountain 9b Lead | worked 28th Dec 2021 9b
Second ascent.
Rainman 9b Lead | did not finish
Marina Superstar 9a+ Lead | worked 20th Oct 2009 9a+/9b
First ascent.

So happy to have some really hard FA! Well, I am not sure about the grade. Definately my hardest yet, but probably not 9b, thus I go for 9a+/b. I have to try more routes from Chris to compare. Beautiful line 35m line in very steep cave.

L'étrange Ivresse des Lenteurs 9a+ Lead | worked 4th Sep 2010 9a+
First ascent.
Chaxi 9a+ Lead | worked 2011
First ascent.
Obrint el Sistema 9a+ Lead | worked 14th Mar 2011 9a+ (soft)
First ascent. 2 sessions. Fifth go.
Perlorodka 9a+ Lead | worked 6th Sep 2011
First ascent.

Finally it is done! Great line, one of the best lines at home and feels great to send the line I have been walking around for years and thought of it as impossible. Possibly the route I spent the most time on, but once you are at your home crag, you don't bother with the tries even when you are tired. So great to send both of my projects the same day! 8a + no-hand rest + 7Cboulder + rest + 8B+ boulder (12 moves) + 7B+ mantle onto the ledge [1]

References

[1] https://www.8a.nu/crags/sportclimbing/czech-republic/holstejn-mor-kras/sectors/lidomorna/routes/perlorodka/

Jungle Boogie 9a+ Lead | worked 5th Jun 2012 9a+
First ascent.
Kangaroo's Limb 9a+ Lead | worked 21st Sep 2013
First ascent.
Vicious Circle 9a+ Lead | worked 25th Mar 2016 9a+/9b
Hyper Finale 9a+ Lead | worked 17th Jul 2016
First ascent.
La Castagne 9a+ Lead | worked 2nd Feb 2018 9a+
First ascent.
Stone Butterfly 9a+ Lead | worked 15th May 2018
First ascent.
Molekuly 9a+ Lead | worked 26th Oct 2021
Kout Pikle 9a+ Lead | worked 18th Dec 2021 9a+/9b
Trofeo dell’Adriatico 9a+ Lead | worked 27th Jan 2022
First ascent.

References

[1] https://youtu.be/EaBQGIsIZfs?t=600

Bombardino 9a+ Lead | worked 23rd Feb 2022 9a+/9b
First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ioAg56vEJsc

A je to! 9a+ Lead | worked 31st Aug 2023 9a/9a+
First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/reel/Cwkf_8WMdKW/=

Fantazija 9a+ Lead | worked 1st Oct 2023
First ascent.
Chicken Nose 9a+ Lead | worked 4th Nov 2023
El Maquinista 9a+ Lead | worked 12th Nov 2023 9a+/9b
Pure Dreaming Plus 9a+ Lead | worked
First ascent.
La Rambla Extension 9a+ Lead | worked 10th Feb 2008 9a/9a+
Fifth go.

5th go, without resting hold [although] it is nonsense to consider it as prohibited

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LdbKjPUDJVY

[2] Interview with Niall Grimes on Jam Crack Podcast, June 2023 https://open.spotify.com/episode/2UiXy1sBEaPTodNUnYwnux?si=a27f975d748a4930

Open Air 9a+ Lead | worked 17th Nov 2008 9a+
Second ascent.

A bit harder than Weiße Rose, so 9a+ should be appropriate I hope, when Alex Huber did it, Action Directe considered as 8c+ , then 9a for this one was OK. Now when AD is 9a, this should be 9a+.

References

[1] https://www.climbing.com/news/groundbreaking-515-gets-second-ascent/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPh7742FS5Q

Corona 9a+ Lead | worked 2009
Overshadow 9a+ Lead | worked 16th May 2011
Power Inverter 9a+ Lead | worked 25th Jan 2013
Pachamama 9a+ Lead | worked 3rd Feb 2017
Lapsus 9a+ Lead | worked 20th Apr 2017 9a+
Meiose 9a+ Lead | worked 27th Jan 2018 9a+
Second ascent.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/BepiiOxlmfe/

Super Crackinette 9a+ Lead | flash 10th Feb 2018

The first ever flash of a 9a+ route.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b6OvrRbGU68

Catxasa 9a+ Lead | worked 8th Feb 2019
Qui 9a+ Lead | worked 19th Sep 2019 9a+
Second ascent.

2nd ascent after 23 year, FA Stefan Fürst in 1996. It took me over 10 years and roughly 10 days. 1st day this year. Stefan gave it 9a, possibly something have broken, but very possibly it has not got much harder due to breaks. I believe it is more 9a+ now, even though the crux is very hard to grade. The difficulty is not to be underestimated as the first 8c section is surprisingly tiring and makes the crux so much harder. [1]

References

[1] Adam's comments on 8a.nu.

La Furia de Jabali 9a+ Lead | worked 19th Jan 2022 9a+
Los Revolucionarios 9a Lead | worked May 2009
First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H8VQ4GSDh-c

A Present For the Future 9a Lead | worked 2nd Jan 2010 9a
First ascent.
PPP 9a Lead | worked 7th Aug 2010
First ascent.
Joe-Cita 9a Lead | worked 20th Apr 2012
First ascent.

Most of the climb was onsight or flash, except the end of second pitch of Marroncita (8b).

Thor's Hammer 9a Lead | worked 8th Jul 2012 9a
First ascent.

Adam initially said 9a+ but later suggested 9a was more appropriate after new beta and some kneebars were found.

Climb Free 9a Lead | worked 30th Nov 2017
First ascent.
Chiave della Volta 9a Lead | worked Aug 2023
First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CyQf3QHvCmK/=

El Potro 9a Lead | worked
First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6cjDRWBJl5c

Martin Krpan 9a Lead | worked 11th Nov 2006
Estado Crítico 9a Lead | worked 7th Feb 2007 9a
Third go.

Adam suggested 8c+ at the time but after a subsequent ascent of Golpe de Estado he said it could warrant 9a due to some hold breakages.

Fuck the System 9a Lead | worked 6th Feb 2008
Weiße Rose 9a Lead | worked 13th Sep 2008 9a (hard)
Second ascent.

Adam suggested it could even be 9a+:

Yess! very solid for that grade in my opinion, with good conditions much better, maybe 9a+ I do not know

References

https://www.facebook.com/adamondraofficial/photos/pcb.3877426219004530/3877402072340278/

Om 9a Lead | worked 14th Jun 2009
Second ascent.
North Star 9a Lead | worked 2nd May 2010
Second ascent. Fourth go.

4th go, normal 9a for tall [people], harder for short ones

Northern Lights 9a Lead | worked 3rd May 2010
Second ascent.
Rainshadow 9a Lead | worked 17th May 2011
Second ascent.

Honestly one of the best climbs I have done, only Raindogs could be less polished

Era Vella 9a Lead | worked 30th Jul 2011
Second go.
Southern Smoke Direct 9a Lead | flash 29th Oct 2012
Der Lange Atem 9a Lead | worked 29th Jun 2013 9a
Cabane au Canada 9a Lead | onsight 9th Jul 2013 8c+

Long-term dream came true when I did not even expect it. I travelled to this incredible area, thinking that the route would be pretty dirty and abandoned after a long winter, but I found it perfectly cleaned with the draws hanging in. I admit that it is definitely not hard 9a, it definitely rather lower end, but it fits my style, I felt in very decent shape and I fought hard! For the first time in my life, I onsighted a route which had been suggested 9a and I could honestly believe that it could be in the 9a region. For all the others it was simply not case, even though it is very hard to judge it while you are onsighting. Beautiful moment and experience in the early morning session in some of the most breathtaking sportclimbing-wall I have ever seen.

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/adam-ondra-9a-onsight-at-rawyl-in-switzerland.html

Il Domani 9a Lead | onsight 4th May 2014

Been waiting for this for such long time, saving for an onsight. Almost tried last year in less than ideal conditions, but the decision I made was good. Today everything was perfect, awesome [temps] and well rested, and that was just enough to send this beautiful route. Sooo happy. My hardest onsight ever 4sure. [1]

[1] https://www.8a.nu/crags/sportclimbing/spain/baltzola/sectors/la-cueva/routes/il-domani

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qA8Bjp4SOkA

TCT 9a Lead | onsight 11th Jul 2014
Three Degrees of Separation 9a Lead | worked 21st Jul 2015 9a+
Classified 9a Lead | worked 28th Sep 2015 9a/9a+
The Dawn Wall 9a Lead | worked 22nd Nov 2016
Second ascent. With Pavel Blažek.

A hugely impressive effort over 8 days, especially given Adam's relative lack of big wall experience at the time.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CpDX4qKsxfU/

[2] https://stara.emontana.cz/adam-ondra-dawn-wall-interview/

The Assassin 9a Lead | worked 9th Nov 2018
La Ley Indignata 9a Lead | worked 9th Nov 2020
Water World 9a Lead | onsight 28th Nov 2022
Peščena Ura 9a Lead | flash 23rd Oct 2023 9a (hard)
El Gran Bellanco 9a Lead | onsight 8th Nov 2023 8c+/9a
La Parada de los Monstruos 9a Lead | worked 11th Nov 2023 9a (soft)

Adam was on for a good onsight burn, but while resting in a kneebar the edge of the hold he was kneebarring snapped. He held the swing, but his leg was tangled in the rope so he decided the ascent was compromised and dropped off.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CzrTgpyo-IE/

Narcissus 9a Lead | worked 17th Feb 2024
Third ascent? Second go.
Total Eclipse 9a Lead | did not finish 8c+/9a

Adam came close but didn't manage to finish it off because the top of the route was wet.

Hubble 9a Lead | did not finish 9a
Directa Rodillar 8c+ Lead | worked 6th Nov 2020
First ascent.
Travesía de la Enmienda 8c+ Lead | worked 16th Feb 2007 8c+/9a
Fourth go.
Kidetasunaren Balio Erantsia 8c+ Lead | onsight 6th Mar 2011
Bizi Euskaraz Extension 8c+ Lead | onsight 7th Mar 2011
La Rubia 8c+ Lead | onsight 13th Apr 2011

The same day as Chilam Balam!

Eye of Odin 8c+ Lead | onsight Jul 2012
Pure Imagination 8c+ Lead | onsight 2nd Nov 2012 8c+

The same day as Adam onsighted The Golden Ticket.

The Golden Ticket 8c+ Lead | onsight 2nd Nov 2012 8c+ (hard)
Le Super Plafond 8c+ Lead | onsight 6th Jul 2014
Chromosone Y 8c+ Lead | flash 13th Dec 2014
Necessary Evil 8c+ Lead | worked 24th Feb 2015
Second go.
Just Do It 8c+ Lead | onsight 10th Nov 2018

An incredible onsight given the technical nature of the climbing.

A dream :-)

Alan Watts, prolific Smith Rock developer and equipper of Just Do It, talking to Adam after watching his onsight:

Wow! That was the best thing I've ever seen in climbing! In 45 years that's the best thing I've ever seen. [3]

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S6floyyDP-w

[2] https://open.spotify.com/episode/3zSBUkgNGh7ij0a81Z664n?

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xeDECxrxUnE

Warmduscher 8c+ Lead | onsight 2020

If you asked me what was last year’s best sport-climbing achievement for me 🙏, I would probably reply “Warmduscher”.

References

[1] https://www.emontana-magazine.com/adam-ondra-onsight-warmduscher/

Solitary Souls 8c+ Lead | onsight 12th Mar 2022
Goosfraba 8c+ Lead | flash 29th Mar 2022
Radar Ez 8c+ Lead | onsight 20th Feb 2023
Les Temps Difficiles 8c+ Lead | worked 5th Nov 2023
Inga 8c+ Lead | worked 9th Feb 2024 8c+ (hard)
5 Uve 8c Lead | onsight 27th Jun 2011
First ascent.
Ain't Sane in the Membrane 8c Lead | worked 17th Mar 2023
First ascent.
Least Resistance 8c Lead | onsight 6th Jul 2008 8b+
WoGü 8c Lead | worked 26th Jul 2008
Mind Control 8c Lead | onsight 20th Mar 2011
Bat Route 8c Lead | onsight 16th May 2011

The first 8c to be onsighted in the UK.

Nordic Flower 8c Lead | onsight 9th Jul 2012

Putting the draws in!

Climbing with 30 draws at the beginning felt like hell! That was the crux for me. [1]

References

[1] https://vimeo.com/109956376

Muy Verdes 8c Lead | onsight 11th Jul 2012
Kingslayer 8c Lead | onsight 1st Oct 2023
Inferno do Vrha 8c Lead | onsight 1st Oct 2023
Le Brillant Saoul 8c Lead | onsight 11th Feb 2024
Silbergeier 8b+ Lead | worked 27th Jul 2007

Aged just 14!

Rock Fucks 8b+ Lead | onsight 11th Feb 2015
White Wedding 8b+ Lead | onsight 7th Nov 2018

First OS ascent of the route.

Scarface 8b+ Lead | onsight 7th Nov 2018
Badman 8b+ Lead | onsight 10th Nov 2018

First OS and on the same day as his Just Do It OS!

https://gripped.com/news/adam-ondra-wraps-smith-trip-project-attempt/

Les Massey Ferguson 8b+ Lead | onsight 29th Dec 2020
Totally Free II 8b Lead | onsight 29th Apr 2010
Austrian Oak 8b Lead | onsight 29th Apr 2010
Magnetic Fields 8b Lead | onsight 29th Apr 2010
Full Tilt 8b Lead | onsight 3rd May 2010

Narrowly missed out on onsighting True North when he dropped the last boulder problem.

Mandela 8a+ Lead | onsight 3rd May 2010
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Terranova 8C+ Boulder | worked 10th Nov 2011
First ascent.

For sure, for many boulderers it would not be motivating at all. But I had my dream-holds, that kept circling in my mind, I kept wondering if there was a way to traverse this part of the wall. And also I had a project close to my home, with good conditions even if it is 18 degrees outside (fresh breeze from inside the cave, additionally limestone is not aggressive for skin). [2]

References

[1] https://youtu.be/QeR47AQ05Jo?t=71

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2011/11/8c+boulder_by_ondra_updated-_comments_from_adam-64987

[3] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/adam-ondra-frees-terranova-8c-.html

Ledoborec 8C+ Boulder | worked 24th May 2020
First ascent.
Brutal Rider 8C+ Boulder | worked 25th May 2020
First ascent.

In total it has 25 hard moves and could as well be 9b sport route.

https://www.8a.nu/crags/bouldering/czech-republic/sloup/sectors/stre-skaly/routes/brutal-rider

Gioia 8C+ Boulder | worked 6th Dec 2011 8C+
Second ascent.

A fairy-tale end of physical and mental battle, spent 11 days in total on this problem, the same as on Terranova, therefore I go for 8C+ from the same reasons. Thumbs up Christian [Core] for the vision and excitement to keep trying over and over again, I knew it is possible, Christian saw just a piece of incredible impossible-looking rock.

On the grade:

Well every single move is at the very limit and so I do think it's 8C+. I'd compare it in difficulty to Terranova. If you were to give this 8C, then the bouldering grades wouldn't make much sense anymore. You'd have to downgrade all the 8B+ and most of the 8C's as well. When Christian [Core] sent the problem he thought it could be 8C+, but he first suggested 8C to play things safe. I can only congratulate him for this superb ascent three years ago. [2]

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QeR47AQ05Jo

[2] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/adam-ondra-the-pure-gioia-interview.html

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tMNZGPnwve4

Kráter 8C Boulder | worked 24th Jun 2017 8C
First ascent.
Pučmeloun 8C Boulder | worked 14th Nov 2019 8C (hard)
First ascent.
Nunavut 8C Boulder | worked 14th Nov 2019
First ascent.
Pohár Nesmrtelnosti (Prodloužení) 8C Boulder | worked 23rd Nov 2022 8C/8C+
Drift 8C Boulder | worked
First ascent.
Pata Ledovce 8C Boulder | worked
First ascent.
From Dirt Grows the Flowers 8C Boulder | worked 30th Nov 2010
Monkey Wedding 8C Boulder | worked 14th Aug 2011 8C
Tekuté Štěstí 8C Boulder | worked 24th Jun 2018
Ghost Rider 8C Boulder | worked 24th Sep 2019
Iceberg 8C Boulder | worked 23rd Apr 2020
Montecore 8C Boulder | did not finish
Sedni Si Na Kost 8B+ Boulder | worked 16th Sep 2009
First ascent.
Dreamtime (pre break) 8B+ Boulder | worked 23rd Mar 2008
1 session.

In 4 hours!

Practice of the Wild 8B+ Boulder | worked 1st Oct 2011 8C (soft)
Big Paw 8B+ Boulder | worked 29th Nov 2011 8B+/8C
Gecko Assis 8B+ Boulder | flash 11th Dec 2011 8B

A notorious dilemma with the grade, fits perfectly my style, height and conditions were awesome. But the second climbing day, a bit tired and not fully on the limit. I would love to record it as 8B+, but it just did not feel like 8B+... that is my feeling

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O1BEILGQoWQ

Jade 8B+ Boulder | flash 7th Jun 2015

Surreal moment of flashing this problem. I did right before heading out to the airport, with little time to rest after the massive hike. But I was motivated by the good crew and just executed it perfectly. Despite two days of world cup before, i felt strong and with perfect skin,all you need for this boulder problem. Super happy. Thank you Dave [Graham] for the beta [2]

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Ghu8PigrTI

[2] https://www.8a.nu/crags/bouldering/united-states/upper-chaos/sectors/unknown-sector-e4601/routes/jade-5d01f/

Sviní Mor 8B Boulder | worked 29th Sep 2013
First ascent.
Intensitos 8B Boulder | worked 14th Nov 2019
First ascent.
The Dagger 8B Boulder | worked 18th Dec 2009 8B+
Confessions 8B Boulder | flash 20th Dec 2009 8B

Well, 8B+ flash sounds amazing but I can't put as 8B+, it was all too simple compared to The Dagger or La Proue. I just gave it go without expecting anything and suddenly I was on the top and did not find it very hard. But I do not say it can't be 8B+, it might have been pretty much my style or I don't know... To flash The Vice was much more difficult for me. see Martin's comment as well.

The Vice 8B Boulder | flash 30th Jul 2012
Don't Get Too Greedy 8B Boulder | flash 7th Jun 2015
Fat Lip 8B Boulder | worked Jan 2023
The Ace 8B Boulder | flash 22nd Jan 2023

Freak moment! Executed just perfectly! Thanks for the beta Will and Leon for beta, and extra psyche by the legend himself Jerry [Moffatt] and Magnus [Midtbø]!

Jerry Moffatt:

That was fucking awesome! [2]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/Cnzog4ZoynB/

[2] https://youtu.be/xe8PeQgbvEs?t=939

Luftig Kö Till Nålens Öga 8B Boulder | flash Mar 2024 8B (hard)
Careless Torque 8A Boulder | worked 22nd Jan 2023
Midnight Lightning 7B Boulder | flash 30th Oct 2018
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Bon Voyage E12 Lead | worked 14th Feb 2024 9a (hard)
Second ascent. 3 sessions.

It is hands down one of the best routes I have ever climbed, and it is a true miracle that there are just enough holds to make it climbable and enough gear to make it runout, but safe. Gradewise, I think if it was bolted, it would be very solid and specific 9a 👊 Placing the gear makes it a little more physically difficult and adds some extra spice 😎 [1]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C3avZHUsI0E/

[2] James Pearson discussing Adam's ascent with Tom Randall on the Lattice Training Podcast, March 2024 https://open.spotify.com/episode/1m4Ic7DIEiuL6AE4gb3XXN?

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ji4At78H5Ys

[4] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dQfW-hnmaf0

The Book of Hate E9 Lead | worked Nov 2018
Concepción E8 Lead | onsight 2018
Belly Full of Bad Berries E8 Lead | worked 15th Nov 2018
Ray's Roof E7 Lead | ground up 2023
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade