Adam Ondra

The first 9c in the world and a new benchmark in sport climbing. Adam spent a lot of time training specifically for the route, going as far as to strengthen his calves so he could get a better rest out of the kneebars.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZRTNHDd0gL8

The first 9b+ in the world.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V0uesTSgMys

The second 9b+ in the world. Bolted by Chris Sharma, the pair worked the line together until Adam made the first ascent. Chris made the second ascent shortly afterwards making it the world's first confirmed 9b+.

9b/b+ or just HARD 9b. Took me 2 weeks and half, while feeling strong and with bomber conditions. This route was hard for me, one my hardest, though Change is probably harder to repeat, as it fits my style WAY MORE. [1]

[1] https://www.8a.nu/crags/sportclimbing/norway/flatanger/sectors/hanshallaren/routes/move

[2] https://vimeo.com/73040942

From Adam's 8a.nu logbook:

2 years and 20-25 days on this thing. It is definitely not mega line, it is painful, short and in dirty place. But it was there, I bolted it 5 years ago and I couldn't leave it unclimbed. It is basically one-mover. 7 meters of burly 8b route into hard boulder problem, which is 8B+ on itself for sure. One single move is at least 8B. Very frustrating process of making no progression for long days, but when it finally happened, on super cold sticky day, it felt like nothing. In a short moment it was all over. Short, but LONG awaited moment. I am so happy.

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/adam-ondra-and-vasil-vasil-the-third-9b-interview.html

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/12/vasil_vasil_new_9b+_by_ondra-68562

https://www.instagram.com/p/ClMSqlBMtlc/

https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/adam-ondra-establishes-zverinec-new-9b-plus-czechia.html

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cUIE_ht27s8

Adam suggested low 9b, while acknowledging that he did the route quickly and wasn't too sure on the grade.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uWZyvzzPXlU

9b standard for me? I wish! No, 9b is still a really hard route, certainly not something I would do in an afternoon without too much effort. To tell the truth with Iron Curtain I thought the process would be quite easy and quick. I felt super strong, on the way to Flatanger I had just fired a 9a project called Purgatory at Hell (an area close to Trondheim) on my 2nd go, and the first day on Iron Curtain felt good. But how wrong I was!

Bad conditions arrived and I discovered that the crux holds were completely wet due to condensation. Conditions improved, but were far from perfect and it's hard to climb a route this hard in bad conditions, there is no margin for mistakes and I kept making them... In the end, after some days trying, an extremely strong wind made me go up into the cave yet again despite wanting to take the afternoon off and I sent this perfect line.

https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/adam-ondra-frees-new-9b-at-flatanger-in-norway.html

https://www.instagram.com/p/-JGf-oAumJ/

https://www.instagram.com/p/7AJU5ugugO/

What a moment! Extremely satisfying ascent, nice to feel the progression on the real rock. This route bolted from Seb Bouin is just ultimate power endurance testpiece, combining desperately physical overhang with extremely thin holds on the very top. Last try, last day, 3 days in total and 1 try two years ago. Never did the "real" 9b so fast, not even close:-) This cliff (close to St Leger) is the future, ranked number 2 after Flatanger for me in terms of 9b's and more...and it is not secret spot any more...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gbK4MqpFsVc

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eTjZ2JHJDJo

From Adam's 8a.nu logbook:

Project from Calgary climber Josh Muller who worked on it quite a bit and actually did all the moves! Took me 8 days of effort, mental battle with one low percentage. In the end, I think it is pretty high-end 9b, but I do not have the courtage to call it 9b+. 7C+ into 8C boulder without any rest into easy finish.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BlgEjHZhvxz/

The first 9 moves are surely an 8C+ boulder problem and if I consider it a boulder problem, it is probably the one that took me the most time ever.

https://www.instagram.com/tv/CX9H55-hS7M/

One of the most epic moments of my climbing! Very unexpected. I though it would be 9b+, but unfortunately after only few days of work it cannot be 9b+. Very bouldery, very reachy and very crimpy. Love it! Definitely upper end of 9b in my opinion.

https://www.instagram.com/tv/CanI9WVuini/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ioAg56vEJsc

Probably 9b/b+. Hard bouldery start (8c route) into very good kneebar, then power endurance into hard crux (8A+ boulder?), easier sustained finish where is is possible to mess up. Probably the hardest in Arco.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CbdFJrHKs3t/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-hKEyyi0F_c

From Adam's 8a.nu logbook:

HUGE relief for me, mission accomplished despite various obstacles - notoriously strong wind, injury, flu and stomach ache just before the second trip (thus I was out of shape). After first day in the route I did not expect I would have to dedicate so much time, but proved to be really hard and mischevious. 29 tries (mental torture for me!) during 14 days, but some days only go when I found out it is just too windy to climb at 6th bolt. I do not say it is hard 9b after breaking the hold, but 100% it is 9b now (a bit harder than Marina).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=45xlTby_S2A

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uo64D1-Vumw

8 years after first trying the line!

There are not many routes that I can tell about that I really hated then at certain point. But Neanderthal was definitely one of them. Not because the route is of bad quality, just because how many times I failed again and again. Getting over it and finally succeeding was a huge lesson.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BtyS3XHhnRE/

Third ascent. 4 sessions.

https://www.instagram.com/tv/CWG3br6jcrn/

Second ascent.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TkdGK0d8iOk

https://www.instagram.com/p/CViqftnNJZu/

https://www.instagram.com/p/CXrFZgUqbJW/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bsWNzOKL6-Y

https://youtu.be/EaBQGIsIZfs?t=600

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ioAg56vEJsc

5th go, without resting hold [although] it is nonsense to consider it as prohibited

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LdbKjPUDJVY

Second ascent.

A bit harder than Weiße Rose, so 9a+ should be appropriate I hope, when Alex Huber did it, Action Directe considered as 8c+ , then 9a for this one was OK. Now when AD is 9a, this should be 9a+.

https://www.climbing.com/news/groundbreaking-515-gets-second-ascent/

Second ascent.

https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/adam-ondra-britains-first-8c-on-sight-and-9a-repeat.html

https://vimeo.com/24461554

Second ascent.

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/BepiiOxlmfe/

The first ever flash of a 9a+ route.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b6OvrRbGU68

Second ascent.

2nd ascent after 23 year, FA Stefan Fürst in 1996. It took me over 10 years and roughly 10 days. 1st day this year. Stefan gave it 9a, possibly something have broken, but very possibly it has not got much harder due to breaks. I believe it is more 9a+ now, even though the crux is very hard to grade. The difficulty is not to be underestimated as the first 8c section is surprisingly tiring and makes the crux so much harder. [1]

[1] Adam's comments on 8a.nu.

https://www.8a.nu/crags/sportclimbing/spain/la-capella/sectors/unknown-sector/routes/furia-de-jabali

https://www.instagram.com/adam.ondra/tv/CZFZZ3cBZtH/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H8VQ4GSDh-c

Most of the climb was onsight or flash, except the end of second pitch of Marroncita (8b).

Adam initially said 9a+ but later suggested 9a was more appropriate after new beta and some kneebars were found.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6cjDRWBJl5c

Third go. Adam suggested 8c+ at the time but after a subsequent ascent of Golpe de Estado he said it could warrant 9a due to some hold breakages.

Second ascent.

Adam suggested it could be 9a+:

Yess! very solid for that grade in my opinion, with good conditions much better, maybe 9a+ I do not know

https://www.facebook.com/adamondraofficial/photos/pcb.3877426219004530/3877402072340278/

Second ascent.

Second ascent.

4th go, normal 9a for tall [people], harder for short ones

Second ascent.

Second ascent.

Honestly one of the best climbs I have done, only Raindogs could be less polished

https://youtu.be/Fco-hX0PW_c?t=120

Long-term dream came true when I did not even expect it. I travelled to this incredible area, thinking that the route would be pretty dirty and abandoned after a long winter, but I found it perfectly cleaned with the draws hanging in. I admit that it is definitely not hard 9a, it definitely rather lower end, but it fits my style, I felt in very decent shape and I fought hard! For the first time in my life, I onsighted a route which had been suggested 9a and I could honestly believe that it could be in the 9a region. For all the others it was simply not case, even though it is very hard to judge it while you are onsighting. Beautiful moment and experience in the early morning session in some of the most breathtaking sportclimbing-wall I have ever seen.

https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/adam-ondra-9a-onsight-at-rawyl-in-switzerland.html

Been waiting for this for such long time, saving for an onsight. Almost tried last year in less than ideal conditions, but the decision I made was good. Today everything was perfect, awesome [temps] and well rested, and that was just enough to send this beautiful route. Sooo happy. My hardest onsight ever 4sure. [1]

[1] https://www.8a.nu/crags/sportclimbing/spain/baltzola/sectors/la-cueva/routes/il-domani

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qA8Bjp4SOkA

https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/adam-ondra-climbs-three-degrees-of-separation-at-ceuse.html

Second ascent.

A hugely impressive effort over 8 days, especially given Adam's relative lack of big wall experience at the time.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CpDX4qKsxfU/

2nd ascent.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QCvLhskHVQw

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k3_4nAcA1us

https://www.instagram.com/p/Clg5CQCAO-5/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6sx6LOHo3AM

Adam came close but didn't manage to finish it off because the top of the route was wet.

The same day as Chilam Balam!

Putting the draws in!

https://vimeo.com/109956376

https://vimeo.com/channels/blackdiamond/53636034

An incredible onsight given the technical nature of the climbing.

A dream :-)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S6floyyDP-w

If you asked me what was last year’s best sport-climbing achievement for me 🙏, I would probably reply “Warmduscher”.

https://www.emontana-magazine.com/adam-ondra-onsight-warmduscher/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jJxEuMK7Fa0

https://www.instagram.com/p/CbxwR9vsq3l/

The first 8c to be onsighted in the UK.

First OS of a 14a at Smith.

https://www.lacrux.com/en/klettern/vlog-7-adam-ondra-climbs-scarface-8b-in-the-smith-rocks-onsight-area/

First OS ascent of the route.

First OS and on the same day as his Just Do It OS!

https://gripped.com/news/adam-ondra-wraps-smith-trip-project-attempt/

Narrowly missed out on True North dropping the last boulder problem.

https://youtu.be/QeR47AQ05Jo?t=71

In total it has 25 hard moves and could as well be 9b sport route.

https://www.8a.nu/crags/bouldering/czech-republic/sloup/sectors/stre-skaly/routes/brutal-rider

Second ascent.

A fairy-tale end of physical and mental battle, spent 11 days in total on this problem, the same as on Terranova, therefore I go for 8C+ from the same reasons. Thumbs up Christian for the vision and excitement to keep trying over and over again, I knew it is possible, Christian saw just a piece of incredible impossible-looking rock.

On the grade:

Well every single move is at the very limit and so I do think it's 8C+. I'd compare it in difficulty to Terranova. If you were to give this 8C, then the bouldering grades wouldn't make much sense anymore. You'd have to downgrade all the 8B+ and most of the 8C's as well. When Christian [Core] sent the problem he thought it could be 8C+, but he first suggested 8C to play things safe. I can only congratulate him for this superb ascent three years ago. [2]

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QeR47AQ05Jo

[2] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/adam-ondra-the-pure-gioia-interview.html

https://www.instagram.com/p/ClUOrTTu-Zh/

In 4 hours!

A notorious dilemma with the grade, fits perfectly my style, height and conditions were awesome. But the second climbing day, a bit tired and not fully on the limit. I would love to record it as 8B+, but it just did not feel like 8B+... that is my feeling

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O1BEILGQoWQ

https://vimeo.com/130242972

Well, 8B+ flash sounds amazing but I can't put as 8B+, it was all too simple compared to The Dagger or La Proue. I just gave it go without expecting anything and suddenly I was on the top and did not find it very hard. But I do not say it can't be 8B+, it might have been pretty much my style or I don't know... To flash The Vice was much more difficult for me. see Martin's comment as well.

https://youtu.be/xe8PeQgbvEs?t=181

Freak moment! Executed just perfectly! Thanks for the beta Will and Leon for beta, and extra psyche by the legend himself Jerry [Moffatt] and Magnus [Midtbø]!

Jerry Moffatt:

That was fucking awesome! [2]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/Cnzog4ZoynB/

[2] https://youtu.be/xe8PeQgbvEs?t=939

Fourth or fifth go.

https://www.instagram.com/p/Cnum0wzr4js/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KJ2GBjwf5CI