Adam Ondra

The first 9c in the world and a new benchmark in sport climbing. Adam spent a lot of time training specifically for the route, going as far as to strengthen his calves so he could get a better rest out of the kneebars.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZRTNHDd0gL8

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/C8fK3MPB7eH/?img_index=1

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V0uesTSgMys

The second 9b+ in the world. Bolted by Chris Sharma, the pair worked the line together until Adam made the first ascent. Chris made the second ascent shortly afterwards making it the world's first confirmed 9b+.

9b/b+ or just HARD 9b. Took me 2 weeks and half, while feeling strong and with bomber conditions. This route was hard for me, one my hardest, though Change is probably harder to repeat, as it fits my style WAY MORE. [1]

References

[1] https://www.8a.nu/crags/sportclimbing/norway/flatanger/sectors/hanshallaren/routes/move

[2] https://vimeo.com/73040942

From Adam's 8a.nu logbook:

2 years and 20-25 days on this thing. It is definitely not mega line, it is painful, short and in dirty place. But it was there, I bolted it 5 years ago and I couldn't leave it unclimbed. It is basically one-mover. 7 meters of burly 8b route into hard boulder problem, which is 8B+ on itself for sure. One single move is at least 8B. Very frustrating process of making no progression for long days, but when it finally happened, on super cold sticky day, it felt like nothing. In a short moment it was all over. Short, but LONG awaited moment. I am so happy.

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/adam-ondra-and-vasil-vasil-the-third-9b-interview.html

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/12/vasil_vasil_new_9b+_by_ondra-68562

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bw2I0nI8FLA

https://www.instagram.com/p/ClMSqlBMtlc/

https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/adam-ondra-establishes-zverinec-new-9b-plus-czechia.html

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cUIE_ht27s8

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=00ZZmZdap84

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oTGsRIjyVBE

Adam suggested low 9b, while acknowledging that he did the route quickly and wasn't too sure on the grade.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oTGsRIjyVBE

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uWZyvzzPXlU

9b standard for me? I wish! No, 9b is still a really hard route, certainly not something I would do in an afternoon without too much effort. To tell the truth with Iron Curtain I thought the process would be quite easy and quick. I felt super strong, on the way to Flatanger I had just fired a 9a project called Purgatory at Hell (an area close to Trondheim) on my 2nd go, and the first day on Iron Curtain felt good. But how wrong I was!

Bad conditions arrived and I discovered that the crux holds were completely wet due to condensation. Conditions improved, but were far from perfect and it's hard to climb a route this hard in bad conditions, there is no margin for mistakes and I kept making them... In the end, after some days trying, an extremely strong wind made me go up into the cave yet again despite wanting to take the afternoon off and I sent this perfect line.

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/adam-ondra-frees-new-9b-at-flatanger-in-norway.html

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/-JGf-oAumJ/

[3] https://www.instagram.com/p/7AJU5ugugO/

What a moment! Extremely satisfying ascent, nice to feel the progression on the real rock. This route bolted from Seb Bouin is just ultimate power endurance testpiece, combining desperately physical overhang with extremely thin holds on the very top. Last try, last day, 3 days in total and 1 try two years ago. Never did the "real" 9b so fast, not even close:-) This cliff (close to St Leger) is the future, ranked number 2 after Flatanger for me in terms of 9b's and more...and it is not secret spot any more...

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gbK4MqpFsVc

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eTjZ2JHJDJo

From Adam's 8a.nu logbook:

Project from Calgary climber Josh Muller who worked on it quite a bit and actually did all the moves! Took me 8 days of effort, mental battle with one low percentage. In the end, I think it is pretty high-end 9b, but I do not have the courtage to call it 9b+. 7C+ into 8C boulder without any rest into easy finish.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BlgEjHZhvxz/

The first 9 moves are surely an 8C+ boulder problem and if I consider it a boulder problem, it is probably the one that took me the most time ever.

https://www.instagram.com/tv/CX9H55-hS7M/

One of the most epic moments of my climbing! Very unexpected. I though it would be 9b+, but unfortunately after only few days of work it cannot be 9b+. Very bouldery, very reachy and very crimpy. Love it! Definitely upper end of 9b in my opinion.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/tv/CanI9WVuini/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ioAg56vEJsc

Probably 9b/b+. Hard bouldery start (8c route) into very good kneebar, then power endurance into hard crux (8A+ boulder?), easier sustained finish where is is possible to mess up. Probably the hardest in Arco.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CbdFJrHKs3t/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-hKEyyi0F_c

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CxxszjyM2GP/?img_index=1

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/CxxwHlvs_Jd/

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OlV-uPWb7yQ

From Adam's 8a.nu logbook:

HUGE relief for me, mission accomplished despite various obstacles - notoriously strong wind, injury, flu and stomach ache just before the second trip (thus I was out of shape). After first day in the route I did not expect I would have to dedicate so much time, but proved to be really hard and mischevious. 29 tries (mental torture for me!) during 14 days, but some days only go when I found out it is just too windy to climb at 6th bolt. I do not say it is hard 9b after breaking the hold, but 100% it is 9b now (a bit harder than Marina).

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=45xlTby_S2A

https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/adam-ondra-interview-after-first-round-first-minute-repeat-at-margalef.html

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uo64D1-Vumw

8 years after first trying the line!

There are not many routes that I can tell about that I really hated then at certain point. But Neanderthal was definitely one of them. Not because the route is of bad quality, just because how many times I failed again and again. Getting over it and finally succeeding was a huge lesson.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BtyS3XHhnRE/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/tv/CWG3br6jcrn/

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TkdGK0d8iOk

So happy to have some really hard FA! Well, I am not sure about the grade. Definately my hardest yet, but probably not 9b, thus I go for 9a+/b. I have to try more routes from Chris to compare. Beautiful line 35m line in very steep cave.

Finally it is done! Great line, one of the best lines at home and feels great to send the line I have been walking around for years and thought of it as impossible. Possibly the route I spent the most time on, but once you are at your home crag, you don't bother with the tries even when you are tired. So great to send both of my projects the same day! 8a + no-hand rest + 7Cboulder + rest + 8B+ boulder (12 moves) + 7B+ mantle onto the ledge [1]

References

[1] https://www.8a.nu/crags/sportclimbing/czech-republic/holstejn-mor-kras/sectors/lidomorna/routes/perlorodka/

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/adam-ondra-frees-his-vicious-circle-9ab-at-misja-pec.html

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CViqftnNJZu/

https://www.instagram.com/p/CXrFZgUqbJW/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bsWNzOKL6-Y

References

[1] https://youtu.be/EaBQGIsIZfs?t=600

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ioAg56vEJsc

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/reel/Cwkf_8WMdKW/=

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CzT_pzgMTGj/?img_index=1

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s2kKAQ-KgKk

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CzrTgpyo-IE/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uvtZgGZ0LnU

5th go, without resting hold [although] it is nonsense to consider it as prohibited

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LdbKjPUDJVY

[2] Interview with Niall Grimes on Jam Crack Podcast, June 2023 https://open.spotify.com/episode/2UiXy1sBEaPTodNUnYwnux?si=a27f975d748a4930

A bit harder than Weiße Rose, so 9a+ should be appropriate I hope, when Alex Huber did it, Action Directe considered as 8c+ , then 9a for this one was OK. Now when AD is 9a, this should be 9a+.

References

[1] https://www.climbing.com/news/groundbreaking-515-gets-second-ascent/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPh7742FS5Q

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/adam-ondra-britains-first-8c-on-sight-and-9a-repeat.html

[2] https://vimeo.com/24461554

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/adam-ondra-climbs-three-degrees-of-separation-at-ceuse.html

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/BepiiOxlmfe/

The first ever flash of a 9a+ route.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b6OvrRbGU68

2nd ascent after 23 year, FA Stefan Fürst in 1996. It took me over 10 years and roughly 10 days. 1st day this year. Stefan gave it 9a, possibly something have broken, but very possibly it has not got much harder due to breaks. I believe it is more 9a+ now, even though the crux is very hard to grade. The difficulty is not to be underestimated as the first 8c section is surprisingly tiring and makes the crux so much harder. [1]

References

[1] Adam's comments on 8a.nu.

References

[1] https://www.8a.nu/crags/sportclimbing/spain/la-capella/sectors/unknown-sector/routes/furia-de-jabali

[2] https://www.instagram.com/adam.ondra/tv/CZFZZ3cBZtH/

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H8VQ4GSDh-c

Most of the climb was onsight or flash, except the end of second pitch of Marroncita (8b).

Adam initially said 9a+ but later suggested 9a was more appropriate after new beta and some kneebars were found.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WuJI8S16JR4

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CyQf3QHvCmK/=

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LtGnnhfKInI

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6cjDRWBJl5c

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rrc2JKEc_bs

Adam suggested 8c+ at the time but after a subsequent ascent of Golpe de Estado he said it could warrant 9a due to some hold breakages.

Adam suggested it could even be 9a+:

Yess! very solid for that grade in my opinion, with good conditions much better, maybe 9a+ I do not know

References

https://www.facebook.com/adamondraofficial/photos/pcb.3877426219004530/3877402072340278/

4th go, normal 9a for tall [people], harder for short ones

Honestly one of the best climbs I have done, only Raindogs could be less polished

References

[1] https://youtu.be/Fco-hX0PW_c?t=120

Long-term dream came true when I did not even expect it. I travelled to this incredible area, thinking that the route would be pretty dirty and abandoned after a long winter, but I found it perfectly cleaned with the draws hanging in. I admit that it is definitely not hard 9a, it definitely rather lower end, but it fits my style, I felt in very decent shape and I fought hard! For the first time in my life, I onsighted a route which had been suggested 9a and I could honestly believe that it could be in the 9a region. For all the others it was simply not case, even though it is very hard to judge it while you are onsighting. Beautiful moment and experience in the early morning session in some of the most breathtaking sportclimbing-wall I have ever seen.

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/adam-ondra-9a-onsight-at-rawyl-in-switzerland.html

[2] https://www.desnivel.com/escalada-roca/adam-ondra-escala-9a-a-vista-con-la-cabane-au-canada-suiza/

Been waiting for this for such long time, saving for an onsight. Almost tried last year in less than ideal conditions, but the decision I made was good. Today everything was perfect, awesome [temps] and well rested, and that was just enough to send this beautiful route. Sooo happy. My hardest onsight ever 4sure. [1]

References

[1] https://www.8a.nu/crags/sportclimbing/spain/baltzola/sectors/la-cueva/routes/il-domani

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qA8Bjp4SOkA

A hugely impressive effort over 8 days, especially given Adam's relative lack of big wall experience at the time.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CpDX4qKsxfU/

[2] https://stara.emontana.cz/adam-ondra-dawn-wall-interview/

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QCvLhskHVQw

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k3_4nAcA1us

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/Clg5CQCAO-5/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6sx6LOHo3AM

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CyyWr8aM7QO/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g1xVqqF61zA

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CzbJjO0uX-3/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q9jOgNy9rHQ

Adam was on for a good onsight burn, but while resting in a kneebar the edge of the hold he was kneebarring snapped. He held the swing, but his leg was tangled in the rope so he decided the ascent was compromised and dropped off.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CzrTgpyo-IE/

Adam came close but didn't manage to finish it off because the top of the route was wet.

If you asked me what was last year’s best sport-climbing achievement for me 🙏, I would probably reply “Warmduscher”.

References

[1] https://www.emontana-magazine.com/adam-ondra-onsight-warmduscher/

The same day as Chilam Balam!

The same day as Adam onsighted The Golden Ticket.

The same day as Adam onsighted Pure Imagination.

https://vimeo.com/channels/blackdiamond/53636034

Placing the quickdraws.

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/volx-and-ceuse-updates-adam-ondra-alexander-megos-and-gabriele-moroni.html

An incredible onsight given the technical nature of the climbing.

A dream :-)

Alan Watts, prolific Smith Rock developer and equipper of Just Do It, talking to Adam after watching his onsight:

Wow! That was the best thing I've ever seen in climbing! In 45 years that's the best thing I've ever seen. [3]

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S6floyyDP-w

[2] https://open.spotify.com/episode/3zSBUkgNGh7ij0a81Z664n?

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xeDECxrxUnE

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jJxEuMK7Fa0

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CbxwR9vsq3l/

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3uZTq8xJwh0

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YbkExGGB4TI

The first 8c to be onsighted in the UK.

Putting the draws in!

Climbing with 30 draws at the beginning felt like hell! That was the crux for me. [1]

References

[1] https://vimeo.com/109956376

References

[1] https://vimeo.com/109956376

One of the pumpiest routes you can ever find on the rock. Simply amazing. 8b+/c is probably the correct grade, 2005 onsight by Cédric Lachat is possibly the hardest onsight ever at that time. [1]

References

[1] https://www.8a.nu/crags/sportclimbing/austria/burser-schlucht/sectors/burser-verschneidung/routes/nobody-is-perfect/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C3TLPXnNbYU/?img_index=1

Aged just 14!

First OS ascent of the route.

First OS of a 14a at Smith.

https://www.lacrux.com/en/klettern/vlog-7-adam-ondra-climbs-scarface-8b-in-the-smith-rocks-onsight-area/

First OS and on the same day as his Just Do It OS!

References

[1] https://gripped.com/news/adam-ondra-wraps-smith-trip-project-attempt/

Narrowly missed out on onsighting True North when he dropped the last boulder problem.

For sure, for many boulderers it would not be motivating at all. But I had my dream-holds, that kept circling in my mind, I kept wondering if there was a way to traverse this part of the wall. And also I had a project close to my home, with good conditions even if it is 18 degrees outside (fresh breeze from inside the cave, additionally limestone is not aggressive for skin). [2]

References

[1] https://youtu.be/QeR47AQ05Jo?t=71

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2011/11/8c+boulder_by_ondra_updated-_comments_from_adam-64987

[3] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/adam-ondra-frees-terranova-8c-.html

In total it has 25 hard moves and could as well be 9b sport route.

https://www.8a.nu/crags/bouldering/czech-republic/sloup/sectors/stre-skaly/routes/brutal-rider

A fairy-tale end of physical and mental battle, spent 11 days in total on this problem, the same as on Terranova, therefore I go for 8C+ from the same reasons. Thumbs up Christian [Core] for the vision and excitement to keep trying over and over again, I knew it is possible, Christian saw just a piece of incredible impossible-looking rock.

On the grade:

Well every single move is at the very limit and so I do think it's 8C+. I'd compare it in difficulty to Terranova. If you were to give this 8C, then the bouldering grades wouldn't make much sense anymore. You'd have to downgrade all the 8B+ and most of the 8C's as well. When Christian [Core] sent the problem he thought it could be 8C+, but he first suggested 8C to play things safe. I can only congratulate him for this superb ascent three years ago. [2]

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QeR47AQ05Jo

[2] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/adam-ondra-the-pure-gioia-interview.html

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tMNZGPnwve4

https://www.instagram.com/p/ClUOrTTu-Zh/

Adam suggested the problem was slightly morpho and was likely 8C+ if you couldn't keep a foot on for the final hard cut move.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/reel/C_TTfVrs8Oh/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XuFjeF7QxPM

In 4 hours!

A notorious dilemma with the grade, fits perfectly my style, height and conditions were awesome. But the second climbing day, a bit tired and not fully on the limit. I would love to record it as 8B+, but it just did not feel like 8B+... that is my feeling

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O1BEILGQoWQ

Surreal moment of flashing this problem. I did right before heading out to the airport, with little time to rest after the massive hike. But I was motivated by the good crew and just executed it perfectly. Despite two days of world cup before, i felt strong and with perfect skin,all you need for this boulder problem. Super happy. Thank you Dave [Graham] for the beta [2]

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Ghu8PigrTI

[2] https://www.8a.nu/crags/bouldering/united-states/upper-chaos/sectors/unknown-sector-e4601/routes/jade-5d01f/

Well, 8B+ flash sounds amazing but I can't put as 8B+, it was all too simple compared to The Dagger or La Proue. I just gave it go without expecting anything and suddenly I was on the top and did not find it very hard. But I do not say it can't be 8B+, it might have been pretty much my style or I don't know... To flash The Vice was much more difficult for me. see Martin's comment as well.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Ghu8PigrTI

References

[1] https://youtu.be/xe8PeQgbvEs?t=181

Freak moment! Executed just perfectly! Thanks for the beta Will and Leon for beta, and extra psyche by the legend himself Jerry [Moffatt] and Magnus [Midtbø]!

Jerry Moffatt:

That was fucking awesome! [2]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/Cnzog4ZoynB/

[2] https://youtu.be/xe8PeQgbvEs?t=939

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C4VZoEAMSKa/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y3zULgbQRfc

Fourth or fifth go.

https://www.instagram.com/p/Cnum0wzr4js/

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DqwKfox5xB0

It is hands down one of the best routes I have ever climbed, and it is a true miracle that there are just enough holds to make it climbable and enough gear to make it runout, but safe. Gradewise, I think if it was bolted, it would be very solid and specific 9a 👊 Placing the gear makes it a little more physically difficult and adds some extra spice 😎 [1]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C3avZHUsI0E/

[2] James Pearson discussing Adam's ascent with Tom Randall on the Lattice Training Podcast, March 2024 https://open.spotify.com/episode/1m4Ic7DIEiuL6AE4gb3XXN?

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ji4At78H5Ys

[4] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dQfW-hnmaf0

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mVDyk0EG8sc

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mUpigX8xKy8

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KJ2GBjwf5CI

References

[1] https://youtu.be/w0ymsYOIe1M?si=y7ftlEi6cSwPfL-g&t=195