Careless Torque | 8A Boulder problem at Stanage

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Highball.
Contributors: remus

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Malcolm Smith
Added at 00:02 on 01 February 2024
Ned Feehally
Added at 20:05 on 08 May 2023
Cailean Harker
Added at 15:12 on 23 December 2020
Adam Ondra
View this post on Instagram

Added at 19:01 on 22 January 2023

Ascents

9 recorded ascents, including 2 unsuccessful ascents.

Climber Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Ron Fawcett Boulder | worked 1987
First ascent.

Ron tried the moves on a rope before jumping from progressively higher up Not to be Taken Away to build up the confidence to commit to the hard upper moves.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/how_was_careless_torque_first_climbed-335185?v=1#x4944420

Marc le Menestrel Boulder | did not finish Between 1st Jan 1987 and 1st Jan 2002
John Dunne Boulder | worked 1989
Second ascent.

References

[1] Email exchange, September 2023

[2] On The Edge, issue 114

Malcolm Smith Boulder | worked 20th Dec 2001
Third ascent. 3 sessions.

I think it's the best boulder I've ever done quality-wise!

...

I bouldered out the start quickly the first day, top roped the upper arete on the next day and then did it on the third day. [3]

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2001/12/malcolm_smith_repeats_careless_torque_-_as_fawcett_watches-2119

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/how_was_careless_torque_first_climbed-335185?v=1#x4944420

[3] On The Edge, Issue 114

Ivan Tresch Boulder | did not finish 2002

Ivan got through the crux on his third attempt but didn't quite manage to finish it off.

References

[1] On The Edge 118, page 22

Ned Feehally Boulder | worked 6th Sep 2009
Mina Leslie-Wujastyk Boulder | ground up 21st Feb 2013
Cailean Harker Boulder | worked 9th Nov 2013
Adam Ondra Boulder | worked 22nd Jan 2023