Careless Torque | 8A Boulder problem at Stanage

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First ascent.

After solving the start, Ron tried the upper moves on a rope before jumping from progressively higher up Not to be Taken Away to build up the confidence to commit to the hard upper moves.

Starting on its right-hand side, I got my feet on a jutting block under the boulder's lip and threw my left hand up onto the blunt edge of the arête. For my right hand there was a sloper, and using this I'd get whatever I could - knee, toe, whatever - onto the arête and then go again with my left hand. It was a desperate move and it took weeks before I could do it, trying it again and again each time I went up to Stanage. This kind of behaviour was unprecedented for me. [2]

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/how_was_careless_torque_first_climbed-335185?v=1#x4944420

[2] Ron Fawcett, Ed Douglas, ‘Ron Fawcett: Rock Athlete’, Vertebrate Publishing, 2011

Second ascent.

References

[1] Email exchange, September 2023

[2] On The Edge, issue 114

Third ascent. 3 sessions.

I think it's the best boulder I've ever done quality-wise!

...

I bouldered out the start quickly the first day, top roped the upper arete on the next day and then did it on the third day. [3]

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2001/12/malcolm_smith_repeats_careless_torque_-_as_fawcett_watches-2119

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/how_was_careless_torque_first_climbed-335185?v=1#x4944420

[3] On The Edge, Issue 114

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/hard-gritstone-repeats.html

The first ground up ascent.

References

[1] https://climbonline.co.uk/2020/05/05/andy-earl-on-top-of-the-world/

References

[1] https://vimeo.com/7020953

[2] https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/3063577282/in/photostream/

[3] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2008/11/big_saturday_for_stanage_-_ned_feehally+ryan_pasquill-45469

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G16I4UK8ZyI

4 sessions.

References

[1] Blocheads (2016) /library/11088/blocheads

References

[1] https://open.spotify.com/episode/7B9rJNcDW03gtbSr5v2u9S?

Fourth or fifth go.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/Cnum0wzr4js/