Careless Torque | 8A Boulder problem at Stanage

First ascent.

Ron tried the moves on a rope before jumping from progressively higher up Not to be Taken Away to build up the confidence to commit to the hard upper moves.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/how_was_careless_torque_first_climbed-335185?v=1#x4944420

Second ascent.

References

[1] Email exchange, September 2023

[2] On The Edge, issue 114

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 88, page 16

Third ascent. 3 sessions.

I think it's the best boulder I've ever done quality-wise!

...

I bouldered out the start quickly the first day, top roped the upper arete on the next day and then did it on the third day. [3]

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2001/12/malcolm_smith_repeats_careless_torque_-_as_fawcett_watches-2119

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/how_was_careless_torque_first_climbed-335185?v=1#x4944420

[3] On The Edge, Issue 114

Ivan got through the crux on his third attempt but didn't quite manage to finish it off.

References

[1] On The Edge 118, page 22

The first ground up ascent.

References

[1] https://climbonline.co.uk/2020/05/05/andy-earl-on-top-of-the-world/

References

[1] https://vimeo.com/7020953

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G16I4UK8ZyI

Fourth or fifth go.

https://www.instagram.com/p/Cnum0wzr4js/