Arnaud Petit climbed the pitch to a half height anchor in 1996 at a grade of 8c+. The full pitch was given the name Biographie but was later renamed Realization by the first ascenionist Chris Sharma. In line with French tradition the line is now known by the original name, Biographie.
The route became famous as one of Chris Sharma's first big new routes and one of the earliest routes given 9a+, though notably not the first (several routes previously given 9a have subsequently been upgraded). His extended efforts on the route were documented in the film Dosage Volume 1.
At one point Chris wanted to call it Get a Life, thankfully he changed his mind! [3]
[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suVH2BuFEh0
[3] https://open.spotify.com/episode/14eXBiZUrV7LetCF132iNS?
21 successful ascents and 1 unsuccessful attempt recorded.
| Climber | Style | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
|---|---|---|---|
| Chris Sharma First ascent. | Lead | worked | 18th Jul 2001 | |
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A breakthrough in Chris' climbing and one of the hardest routes in the world at the time.
References[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_eTxQLfIUNY [2] https://www.instagram.com/p/CRe7spOLVqj/ [3] Coincidentally Charlotte Durif was walking underneath at the time with her brother and Dad who took some photos of the first ascent. https://www.instagram.com/p/CRlzGrNHGHn/ [4] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chris-sharma-climbs-biographie-at-ceuse.html [5] https://open.spotify.com/episode/26PaloSHg59Bbe6WdUWWok? |
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| Sylvain Millet Second ascent. | Lead | worked | 24th May 2004 | |
References |
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| Patxi Usobiaga Third ascent. | Lead | worked | 29th Jul 2004 | |
References |
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| Dave Graham Fourth ascent. | Lead | worked | 30th Jul 2007 | |
| Ethan Pringle Fifth ascent. | Lead | worked | 3rd Sep 2007 | |
| Ramón Julián Puigblanque Sixth ascent. | Lead | worked | 28th Jul 2008 | |
References[1] Climb Issue 44, page 14 |
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| Enzo Oddo | Lead | worked | 15th Aug 2010 | |
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The first repeat following a broken hold at the start. References[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2010/08/enzo_oddo_generation_next-57347 |
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| Jonathan Siegrist | Lead | worked | 1st Jun 2014 | |
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His first of the grade. References[1] https://climbingnarc.com/2014/06/jonthan-siegrist-repeats-realization-biographie-ceuse-5-15a/ |
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| Alex Megos 1 session. Third go. | Lead | worked | 11th Jul 2014 | |
| Adam Ondra | Lead | worked | 22nd Jul 2014 | |
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Adam saved the route for a long time so he could try and flash it, but on his flash burn he fell in the top crux. |
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| Sachi Amma | Lead | worked | 7th Aug 2014 | |
| Stefano Ghisolfi | Lead | worked | Jun 2015 | |
| Jon Cardwell | Lead | worked | 25th May 2016 | |
References |
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| Sean Bailey | Lead | worked | Aug 2016 | |
References |
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| Margo Hayes First female ascent. | Lead | worked | Sep 2017 | |
References |
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| Stefano Carnati | Lead | worked | Before 21st Sep 2018 | 9a+ |
| Jorge Díaz-Rullo | Lead | worked | 13th Jul 2019 | |
| Sébastien Bouin | Lead | worked | Jun 2020 | |
References |
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| Yu Okumura | Lead | worked | 2022 | |
References |
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| Matty Hong | Lead | worked | 29th May 2023 | |
References |
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| Satone Yoshida | Lead | worked | Aug 2025 | |
References |
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| Mélissa Le Nevé | Lead | did not finish | ||
References |
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