Biographie | 9a+ Sport route at Céüse

Bolted in 1989 by Jean-Cristophe Lafaille. Arnaud Petit climbed the pitch to a half height anchor in 1996 at a grade of 8c+. The full pitch was given the name Biographie but was later renamed Realization by the first ascenionist Chris Sharma. In line with French tradition the line is now known by the original name, Biographie.

The route became famous as one of Chris Sharma's first big additions to sport climbing, being an early example of a 9a+ though notably not the first (several routes previously given 9a have subsequently been upgraded). His extended efforts on the route were documented in the film Dosage Volume 1.


Pics + Vids

Chris Sharma
View this post on Instagram

Added at 06:07 on 19 July 2021
Chris Sharma
View this post on Instagram

Added at 13:07 on 21 July 2021
Chris Sharma
Added at 18:12 on 18 December 2020
Sylvain Millet
Added at 08:07 on 01 July 2021
Patxi Usobiaga
Added at 10:07 on 03 July 2021
Dave Graham
Added at 19:12 on 27 December 2021
Sean Bailey
View this post on Instagram

Added at 20:09 on 30 September 2021
Margo Hayes
Added at 18:06 on 04 June 2021
Sébastien Bouin
Added at 18:12 on 18 December 2020

Ascents

11 recorded ascents.

Climber Style FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Chris Sharma Lead (Worked) 18 Jul 2001

A breakthrough in Chris' climbing and one of the hardest routes in the world at the time.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_eTxQLfIUNY

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/CRe7spOLVqj/

[3] Coincidentally Charlotte Durif was walking underneath at the time with her brother and Dad who took some photos of the first ascent. https://www.instagram.com/p/CRlzGrNHGHn/

[4] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chris-sharma-climbs-biographie-at-ceuse.html

Sylvain Millet Lead (Worked) 24 May 2004

Second ascent.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8T5IVUkhCTo

Patxi Usobiaga Lead (Worked) 01 Aug 2004 (approx)

https://vimeo.com/8631168

Dave Graham Lead (Worked) 30 Jul 2007

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dpSfHQtBdOQ

https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/dave-graham-sends-realisation-at-ceuse.html

Ramón Julián Puigblanque Lead (Worked) 28 Jul 2008
Jonathan Siegrest Lead (Worked) 03 Jun 2014 (approx)

His first of the grade.

https://climbingnarc.com/2014/06/jonthan-siegrist-repeats-realization-biographie-ceuse-5-15a/

Alex Megos Lead (Worked) 11 Jul 2014

Third go and in a single day!

https://www.facebook.com/AlexanderMegosSportler/posts/440127572793892

Stefano Ghisolfi Lead (Worked) 23 Jun 2015 (approx)
Sean Bailey Lead (Worked) 03 Aug 2016 (approx)

https://www.instagram.com/p/BIpRrKFj2MG/

Margo Hayes Lead (Worked) 25 Sep 2017 (approx)

First female ascent.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C_N8znD3exI

Sébastien Bouin Lead (Worked) 01 Jun 2020 (approx)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y9I9C9CZ3lc