Biographie | 9a+ Sport route at Céüse

UKClimbing.com | 8a.nu

Bolted by Jean-Cristophe Lafaille. Also known as Realization. Extension of Biographie (L1).

Bolted in 1988 by Jean-Cristophe Lafaille [1]. Arnaud Petit climbed the pitch to a half height anchor in 1996 at a grade of 8c+. The full pitch was given the name Biographie but was later renamed Realization by the first ascenionist Chris Sharma. In line with French tradition the line is now known by the original name, Biographie.

The route became famous as one of Chris Sharma's first big new routes and one of the earliest routes given 9a+, though notably not the first (several routes previously given 9a have subsequently been upgraded). His extended efforts on the route were documented in the film Dosage Volume 1.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suVH2BuFEh0

Contributors: Ted Kingsnorth (1 contributions since 06 Apr 2022), remus (26 contributions since 07 May 2021)
Added 3rd December 2020. Last updated 21st September 2024.

Pics + Vids

Chris Sharma
Added at 18:12 on 18 December 2020
Chris Sharma
View this post on Instagram

Added at 13:07 on 21 July 2021
Chris Sharma
View this post on Instagram

Added at 06:07 on 19 July 2021
Chris Sharma
Added at 15:08 on 31 August 2023
Sylvain Millet
Added at 08:07 on 01 July 2021
Patxi Usobiaga
Added at 10:07 on 03 July 2021
Dave Graham
Added at 19:12 on 27 December 2021
Jonathan Siegrest
Added at 05:09 on 11 September 2024
Sean Bailey
View this post on Instagram

Added at 20:09 on 30 September 2021
Margo Hayes
Added at 18:06 on 04 June 2021
Sébastien Bouin
Added at 18:12 on 18 December 2020
Matty Hong
Added at 16:10 on 06 October 2023
Enzo Oddo
Added at 20:03 on 07 March 2024

Ascents

18 recorded ascents.

Climber Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Chris Sharma Lead | worked 18th Jul 2001
First ascent.

A breakthrough in Chris' climbing and one of the hardest routes in the world at the time.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_eTxQLfIUNY

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/CRe7spOLVqj/

[3] Coincidentally Charlotte Durif was walking underneath at the time with her brother and Dad who took some photos of the first ascent. https://www.instagram.com/p/CRlzGrNHGHn/

[4] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chris-sharma-climbs-biographie-at-ceuse.html

Sylvain Millet Lead | worked 24th May 2004
Second ascent.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8T5IVUkhCTo

Patxi Usobiaga Lead | worked 29th Jul 2004
Third ascent.

References

[1] https://vimeo.com/8631168

Dave Graham Lead | worked 30th Jul 2007
Ethan Pringle Lead | worked 3rd Sep 2007
Ramón Julián Puigblanque Lead | worked 28th Jul 2008
Jonathan Siegrest Lead | worked 1st Jun 2014
Alex Megos Lead | worked 11th Jul 2014
Adam Ondra Lead | worked 22nd Jul 2014

Adam saved the route for a long time so he could try and flash it, but on his flash burn he fell in the top crux.

Sachi Amma Lead | worked 7th Aug 2014
Stefano Ghisolfi Lead | worked Jun 2015
Jon Cardwell Lead | worked 25th May 2016
Sean Bailey Lead | worked Aug 2016
Margo Hayes Lead | worked Sep 2017
First female ascent.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C_N8znD3exI

Jorge Díaz-Rullo Lead | worked 13th Jul 2019
Sébastien Bouin Lead | worked Jun 2020
Matty Hong Lead | worked 29th May 2023
Enzo Oddo Lead | worked