Biographie | 9a+ Sport route at Céüse

Bolted by Jean-Cristophe Lafaille. Also known as Realization.

Bolted in 1989 by Jean-Cristophe Lafaille. Arnaud Petit climbed the pitch to a half height anchor in 1996 at a grade of 8c+. The full pitch was given the name Biographie but was later renamed Realization by the first ascenionist Chris Sharma. In line with French tradition the line is now known by the original name, Biographie.

The route became famous as one of Chris Sharma's first big new routes and one of the earliest routes given 9a+, though notably not the first (several routes previously given 9a have subsequently been upgraded). His extended efforts on the route were documented in the film Dosage Volume 1.


Pics + Vids

Chris Sharma
View this post on Instagram

Added at 13:07 on 21 July 2021
Chris Sharma
Added at 15:08 on 31 August 2023
Chris Sharma
Added at 18:12 on 18 December 2020
Chris Sharma
View this post on Instagram

Added at 06:07 on 19 July 2021
Sylvain Millet
Added at 08:07 on 01 July 2021
Patxi Usobiaga
Added at 10:07 on 03 July 2021
Dave Graham
Added at 19:12 on 27 December 2021
Sean Bailey
View this post on Instagram

Added at 20:09 on 30 September 2021
Margo Hayes
Added at 18:06 on 04 June 2021
Sébastien Bouin
Added at 18:12 on 18 December 2020

Ascents

14 recorded ascents.

Climber Style FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Chris Sharma Lead (Worked) 18th Jul 2001

A breakthrough in Chris' climbing and one of the hardest routes in the world at the time.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_eTxQLfIUNY

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/CRe7spOLVqj/

[3] Coincidentally Charlotte Durif was walking underneath at the time with her brother and Dad who took some photos of the first ascent. https://www.instagram.com/p/CRlzGrNHGHn/

[4] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chris-sharma-climbs-biographie-at-ceuse.html

Sylvain Millet Lead (Worked) 24th May 2004

Second ascent.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8T5IVUkhCTo

Patxi Usobiaga Lead (Worked) 29th Jul 2004

https://vimeo.com/8631168

Dave Graham Lead (Worked) 30th Jul 2007

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dpSfHQtBdOQ

https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/dave-graham-sends-realisation-at-ceuse.html

Ramón Julián Puigblanque Lead (Worked) 28th Jul 2008
Jonathan Siegrest Lead (Worked) Jun 2014

His first of the grade.

https://climbingnarc.com/2014/06/jonthan-siegrist-repeats-realization-biographie-ceuse-5-15a/

Alex Megos Lead (Worked) 11th Jul 2014

Third go and in a single day!

https://www.facebook.com/AlexanderMegosSportler/posts/440127572793892

Sachi Amma Lead (Worked) 7th Aug 2014
Stefano Ghisolfi Lead (Worked) Jun 2015
Jon Cardwell Lead (Worked) 25th May 2016
Sean Bailey Lead (Worked) Aug 2016

https://www.instagram.com/p/BIpRrKFj2MG/

Margo Hayes Lead (Worked) Sep 2017

First female ascent.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C_N8znD3exI

Sébastien Bouin Lead (Worked) Jun 2020

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y9I9C9CZ3lc

Matty Hong Lead (Worked) 29th May 2023