Bolted in 1988 by Jean-Cristophe Lafaille [1]. Arnaud Petit climbed the pitch to a half height anchor in 1996 at a grade of 8c+. The full pitch was given the name Biographie but was later renamed Realization by the first ascenionist Chris Sharma. In line with French tradition the line is now known by the original name, Biographie.
The route became famous as one of Chris Sharma's first big new routes and one of the earliest routes given 9a+, though notably not the first (several routes previously given 9a have subsequently been upgraded). His extended efforts on the route were documented in the film Dosage Volume 1.
At one point Chris wanted to call it Get a Life, thankfully he changed his mind! [3]
[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suVH2BuFEh0
[3] https://open.spotify.com/episode/14eXBiZUrV7LetCF132iNS?
18 recorded ascents.
| Climber | Style | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
|---|---|---|---|
| Chris Sharma | Lead | worked | 18th Jul 2001 | |
|
First ascent.
A breakthrough in Chris' climbing and one of the hardest routes in the world at the time. References[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_eTxQLfIUNY [2] https://www.instagram.com/p/CRe7spOLVqj/ [3] Coincidentally Charlotte Durif was walking underneath at the time with her brother and Dad who took some photos of the first ascent. https://www.instagram.com/p/CRlzGrNHGHn/ [4] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chris-sharma-climbs-biographie-at-ceuse.html |
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| Sylvain Millet | Lead | worked | 24th May 2004 | |
|
Second ascent.
References |
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| Patxi Usobiaga | Lead | worked | 29th Jul 2004 | |
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Third ascent.
References |
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| Dave Graham | Lead | worked | 30th Jul 2007 | |
|
Fourth ascent.
References[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dpSfHQtBdOQ [2] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/dave-graham-sends-realisation-at-ceuse.html |
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| Ethan Pringle | Lead | worked | 3rd Sep 2007 | |
|
Fifth ascent.
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| Ramón Julián Puigblanque | Lead | worked | 28th Jul 2008 | |
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Sixth ascent.
References[1] Climb Issue 44, page 14 |
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| Jonathan Siegrist | Lead | worked | 1st Jun 2014 | |
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His first of the grade. References[1] https://climbingnarc.com/2014/06/jonthan-siegrist-repeats-realization-biographie-ceuse-5-15a/ |
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| Alex Megos | Lead | worked | 11th Jul 2014 | |
|
1 session. Third go.
References[1] https://www.facebook.com/AlexanderMegosSportler/posts/440127572793892 |
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| Adam Ondra | Lead | worked | 22nd Jul 2014 | |
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Adam saved the route for a long time so he could try and flash it, but on his flash burn he fell in the top crux. |
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| Sachi Amma | Lead | worked | 7th Aug 2014 | |
| Stefano Ghisolfi | Lead | worked | Jun 2015 | |
| Jon Cardwell | Lead | worked | 25th May 2016 | |
| Sean Bailey | Lead | worked | Aug 2016 | |
References |
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| Margo Hayes | Lead | worked | Sep 2017 | |
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First female ascent.
References |
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| Jorge Díaz-Rullo | Lead | worked | 13th Jul 2019 | |
| Sébastien Bouin | Lead | worked | Jun 2020 | |
References |
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| Matty Hong | Lead | worked | 29th May 2023 | |
References |
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| Enzo Oddo | Lead | worked | ||