A direct start to Route of All Evil bolted in 1991 by Boone Speed, and the first 8c+ in America established by an American, the soon to be famous Chris Sharma.
Jim Thornburg writing in Climbing magazine #168:
Speed worked on the sick-looking direct start and reckoned that an ascent of the entire route would be like climbing two 5.14a's back-to-back. After a finger injury put Speed out of commission, it seemed likely that the route would gather cobwebs until some visiting Euro arrived to snake yet another American testpiece. [1]
8 recorded ascents.
| Climber | Style | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
|---|---|---|---|
| Chris Sharma | Lead | worked | 17th Mar 1997 | |
|
First ascent.
Age 15. Chris had been climbing for a little over 3 years when he made the ascent, at the time one of the hardest routes in the US alongside Just Do It. References |
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| Tommy Caldwell | Lead | worked | 1998 | |
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Second ascent.
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| Dave Graham | Lead | worked | 20th Nov 2001 | |
| James Litz | Lead | worked | 19th Dec 2004 | |
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3 sessions.
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| Daniel Woods | Lead | worked | 28th Oct 2006 | |
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4 sessions. Sixth go.
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| Mike Doyle | Lead | worked | 13th Feb 2015 | |
| Adam Ondra | Lead | worked | 24th Feb 2015 | |
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Second go.
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| Paige Classen | Lead | worked | Feb 2018 | |