From: | USA 🇺🇸 |
Date of birth: | 23rd April 1981 |
Age: | 43 years old |
Height: | 183 cm |
Weight: | 75 kg |
Hardest Boulder (Worked): | 8C |
Hardest Boulder (Flash): | 8A+ |
Hardest Sport (Worked): | 9b+ |
Hardest Sport (Onsight): | 8c |
Hardest Sport (Flash): | 8b |
Contemporaries | |
Tommy Caldwell | |
Dave Graham |
Chris Sharma started climbing in the 1990s aged 12 before winning the US national championships 2 years later. He went on to reinvigorate hard sport climbing in the US, quickly repeating many of the hardest lines before establishing his own hard routes such as Necessary Evil in 1997, the first 8c+/14c in the USA.
Through the rest of his career he took sport climbing in to the modern era by cementing the 9a+ and 9b grades with a string of cutting edge ascents throughout Europe and the America.
More recently Chris has applied his skills to deep water soloing establishing routes such as Es Pontas, Alasha, Black Pearl and Big Fish, some of the hardest DWS lines in the world.
[1] Interview with Jack Geldard for UKClimbing.com, 29th August 2012 https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/chris_sharma_talks_9b+-4894
[2] Rampage by Josh Lowell and Brett Lowell, 1999 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cqe_w2JTlKM
[3] Best of the West, 2005 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x6VZzVPnlVA
[4] Interview with Alex Honnold on Climbing Gold, 2nd April 2021 https://www.climbinggold.com/episodes/chapter-03
78 recorded ascents.
Climb | Grade | Style | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
---|---|---|---|---|
Le Blond | 9c (approx) | Lead | did not finish | Between 1st Jan 2016 and 1st Jan 2025 | |
La Dura Dura | 9b+ | Lead | worked | 23rd Mar 2013 | |
Second ascent.
The first confirmed 9b+.
References[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V1P97VVt6_k [2] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/chris-sharma-the-la-dura-dura-interview.html |
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Jumbo Love | 9b | Lead | worked | 11th Sep 2008 | |
First ascent.
References[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2008/09/sharmas_jumbo_love_9b_515b-45317 |
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Golpe de Estado | 9b | Lead | worked | 17th Dec 2008 | |
First ascent.
References |
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Neanderthal | 9b | Lead | worked | 18th Dec 2009 | 9b |
First ascent.
References[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/chris_sharma_talks_9b+-4894 |
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First Round, First Minute | 9b | Lead | worked | 19th Apr 2011 | 9b |
First ascent.
Chris suggested hard 9b. References[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/chris_sharma_talks_9b+-4894 |
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Fight or Flight | 9b | Lead | worked | 5th May 2011 | |
First ascent.
On the same day Chris climbed Chaxi as well as making a separate, very good attempt on Chaxiraxi! References[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XKgZL2Etuc4 [2] https://climbingnarc.com/2011/05/two-5-15s-in-a-day-at-oliana-for-chris-sharma/ |
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Stoking the Fire | 9b | Lead | worked | 6th Feb 2013 | 9b |
First ascent.
References |
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El Bon Combat | 9b | Lead | worked | 7th Mar 2015 | 9b/9b+ |
Sleeping Lion | 9b | Lead | worked | 28th Mar 2023 | 9b+ |
First ascent.
References[1] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,31921.msg675237.html#msg675237 [2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sgacMtKWDMM [3] Interview with Climbing Magazine, March 2023 https://www.climbing.com/news/exclusive-interview-chris-sharma-makes-5-15c-fa-in-siurana/ [4] https://www.instagram.com/p/CqdPXoIosXj/ [6] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aBG-8bFgopw [7] https://watch.reelrocktour.com/videos/sleeping-lion |
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Ratstaman Vibrations | 9b | Lead | did not finish | 2012 | |
References |
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Biographie | 9a+ | Lead | worked | 18th Jul 2001 | |
First ascent.
A breakthrough in Chris' climbing and one of the hardest routes in the world at the time. References[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_eTxQLfIUNY [2] https://www.instagram.com/p/CRe7spOLVqj/ [3] Coincidentally Charlotte Durif was walking underneath at the time with her brother and Dad who took some photos of the first ascent. https://www.instagram.com/p/CRlzGrNHGHn/ [4] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chris-sharma-climbs-biographie-at-ceuse.html |
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Three Degrees of Separation | 9a+ | Lead | worked | 15th Jul 2007 | 9a |
First ascent.
References[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/chris-sharma-adds-new-ceuse-testspiece.html |
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Demencia Senil | 9a+ | Lead | worked | Feb 2009 | |
First ascent.
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Pachamama | 9a+ | Lead | worked | 29th May 2009 | |
First ascent.
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Power Inverter | 9a+ | Lead | worked | 2010 | |
First ascent.
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First Ley | 9a+ | Lead | worked | 28th Feb 2010 | |
First ascent.
References[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2010/02/sharma_climbs_first_ley_9a+-54530 |
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Catxasa | 9a+ | Lead | worked | 2011 | |
First ascent.
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Papichulo | 9a+ | Lead | worked | ||
First ascent.
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La Rambla Extension | 9a+ | Lead | worked | Dec 2006 | |
Third ascent.
The day after Eduard Marin made the second ascent. References |
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La Novena Enmienda | 9a+ | Lead | worked | 2007 | |
References |
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Chaxi | 9a+ | Lead | worked | 5th May 2011 | |
The same day as Chris made the first ascent of Fight or Flight! References[1] https://climbingnarc.com/2011/05/two-5-15s-in-a-day-at-oliana-for-chris-sharma/ |
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Joe Mama | 9a+ | Lead | worked | Oct 2016 | |
Mutation | 9a+ | Lead | did not finish | ||
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Dreamcatcher | 9a | Lead | worked | Sep 2005 | |
First ascent.
References |
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Gancho Perfecto | 9a | Lead | worked | 2008 | 9a |
First ascent.
References[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J-nBGhLMGPM [2] https://www.desnivel.com/escalada-roca/gancho-perfecto-de-mr-sharma/ |
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Samfaina | 9a | Lead | worked | 2010 | |
First ascent.
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Era Vella | 9a | Lead | worked | 2010 | |
First ascent.
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Analógica | 9a | Lead | worked | Feb 2010 | |
First ascent.
References |
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Tierra Negra | 9a | Lead | worked | Oct 2012 | |
First ascent.
References[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2012/10/chris_sharma_starts_the_autumn_season_with_two_9as-67529 |
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The Fly | 9a | Lead | worked | 30th Oct 2003 | |
Chris dropped the last move on his flash attempt. |
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Barrakito Puro y Dur | 9a | Lead | worked | 2009 | |
References |
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La Reina Mora | 9a | Lead | worked | Dec 2022 | |
References |
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Necessary Evil | 8c+ | Lead | worked | 17th Mar 1997 | |
First ascent.
Age 15. Chris had been climbing for a little over 3 years when he made the ascent, at the time one of the hardest routes in the US alongside Just Do It. References |
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Spicy Noodle | 8c+ | Lead | worked | 2009 | |
First ascent.
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Just Do It | 8c+ | Lead | worked | Apr 1997 | |
3 sessions.
First American ascent. Famously Chris took his jumper off mid-route, this was very memorable because at the time it was one of the hardest routes in America, and to climb the route with such apparent casualness signalled to many that a new generation of US climbing talent had arrived that was a equal to those operating at the highest levels in sport climbing. References[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/alan-watts-climbing-interview.html |
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Lucifer | 8c+ | Lead | worked | 2008 | |
A very impressive second-go effort. Chris had previously pulled up to the first bolt to check some holds but the decided to try something else, he then came back to it in 2008 and did it first go that day. References[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/purgatory_rrgpmrp-21440/lucifer-346990 |
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Legend of the Overfield | 8c | Lead | worked | 1997 | |
First ascent.
References[1] On The Edge Issue 71, page 16 |
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Facil | 8c | Lead | worked | 1997 | |
First ascent.
References[1] On The Edge Issue 71, page 16 |
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Hasta la Vista | 8c | Lead | worked | 1997 | |
First ascent. 3 sessions.
References[1] On The Edge Issue 71, page 16 |
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The Big Smile | 8c | Lead | worked | ||
First ascent. 1 session.
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Super Tweak | 8c | Lead | worked | Jul 1996 | |
Groove Train | 8c | Lead | worked | 2013 | |
References |
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V for Vendetta | 8c | Lead | onsight | 1st Apr 2022 | |
References |
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To Bolt or Not to Be | 8b+ | Lead | worked | Apr 1998 | |
Biotop | 8b+ | Lead | onsight | 2002 | |
References[1] On The Edge 122, page 14. |
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Free at Last | 8b | Lead | worked | 1997 | |
Second go.
References[1] On The Edge Issue 71, page 16 |
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Read My Lips | 8b | Lead | flash | 1997 | 8b |
References[1] On The Edge Issue 71, page 16 |
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Chouca | 8a+ | Lead | flash | 1998 | |
References |
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Raindogs | 8a | Lead | onsight | 2009 |
Climb | Grade | Style | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
---|---|---|---|---|
Witness the Fitness | 8C | Boulder | worked | Mar 2005 | |
First ascent.
References |
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Practice of the Wild | 8B+ | Boulder | worked | Aug 2004 | |
First ascent.
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Catalan Witness the Fitness | 8B+ | Boulder | worked | 2nd Jan 2016 | |
First ascent.
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The Never Ending Story (Part 1+2) | 8B+ | Boulder | worked | ||
First ascent.
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Dreamtime (pre break) | 8B+ | Boulder | worked | Aug 2002 | |
Fourth ascent.
References[1] https://www.desnivel.com/bulder/chris-sharma-repite-dreamtime/ |
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Dreamtime (pre break) | 8B+ | Boulder | worked | Aug 2004 | 8B+ |
References |
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Goldfish Trombone | 8B+ | Boulder | worked | ||
Esperanza | 8B+ | Boulder | worked | ||
References |
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Off the Wagon | 8B+ | Boulder | did not finish | ||
Chris came very close to making the first ascent, dropping the campus move to the slot. |
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Middle Trifecta | 8B | Boulder | worked | 2005 | |
First ascent.
References |
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Impossible Traverse | 8B | Boulder | worked | Before 1st Jan 2006 | |
First ascent.
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Iron Resolution | 8B | Boulder | worked | ||
First ascent.
References |
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Slashface | 8B | Boulder | worked | 1999 | |
The Mandala | 8A+ | Boulder | worked | 2000 | |
First ascent.
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Captain Hook | 8A+ | Boulder | worked | 2003 | |
First ascent.
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The Buttermilker | 8A+ | Boulder | worked | ||
First ascent.
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Massive Attack | 8A+ | Boulder | flash | 1st Jul 2003 | |
Dominator | 8A+ | Boulder | worked | ||
In June! |
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The Egg | 8A | Boulder | worked | 1999 | |
First ascent.
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Stick It | 8A | Boulder | worked | Before 1st Jan 2000 | |
References[1] On The Edge Issue 91, page 49 |
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Evilution to the Lip | 7C+ | Boulder | worked | ||
First ascent.
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The Force | 7C | Boulder | worked | Before 1st Jan 2000 | |
References[1] On The Edge Issue 91, page 49 |
Climb | Grade | Style | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
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Climb | Grade | Style | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
---|---|---|---|---|
Es Pontas | 9a+ | Deep Water Solo | worked | 26th Sep 2007 | |
First ascent.
References |
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Black Pearl | 9a+ | Deep Water Solo | worked | 7th Nov 2023 | |
First ascent.
References[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CzcGOI4vbPK/ [2] https://www.climbing.com/news/chris-sharma-just-sent-his-hardest-deep-water-solo-to-date/ [3] https://www.instagram.com/reel/CzerOobJSiT/ [4] https://woguclimbing.com/chris-sharma-primera-ascension-black-pearl-joya-del-psicobloc-mallorca/ [5] https://www.instagram.com/p/Cz6xF3sLEtd/ [6] https://gripped.com/profiles/chris-sharma-what-it-took-to-climb-black-pearl/ |
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Alasha | 9a | Deep Water Solo | worked | Sep 2016 | |
First ascent.
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Big Fish | 8c+ | Deep Water Solo | worked | Sep 2017 | 8c+/9a |
Ring of Fire | 8b+ | Deep Water Solo | ground up | 2004 | |
Second ascent.
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Face Your Fear | 8b | Deep Water Solo | worked | ||
First ascent.
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