Move | 9b+ Sport route at Flatanger

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• Change Log

First ascent.

9b/b+ or just HARD 9b. Took me 2 weeks and half, while feeling strong and with bomber conditions. This route was hard for me, one my hardest, though Change is probably harder to repeat, as it fits my style WAY MORE. [1]

Adam climbed the route without knee pads, however he had been climbing extensively in Flatanger for the month beforehand and had built up tough skin on his knees and so was able to use some of the knees that people now use with pads. [3]

References

[1] https://www.8a.nu/crags/sportclimbing/norway/flatanger/sectors/hanshallaren/routes/move

[2] https://vimeo.com/73040942

[3] https://open.spotify.com/episode/62lG1t7uRMy3AGHDnriSng?%0A

Second ascent.

The hardest route I did at the moment. One of the coolest. It's an amazing line in an amazing crag.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GeZUZUBKVjs

Third ascent. 9 sessions.

The same day as climbing The Illusionist.

I think Move was definitely upper end 9b (I'd give it 9b/+) and Illusionist rather soft for the grade (due to the new kneebar beta). I climbed both routes with two kneepads and at this point I'd like to give props to Adam Ondra for making the FA's of those routes without kneepads. The actual crux of Move doesn't change for me, but to get to the crux is definitely easier with kneepads. Absolutely inspiring that Adam did the FA more than 10 years ago 🙌🏼. He could have given it 9b+ without kneepads in my opinion. [1]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C_gNnZOClaa/

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/C_8LuJwinlt/

Fourth ascent. 17 sessions.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/DAF713ytR-i/

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/DCj4m32N-rj/

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5gOrzHukMV0