Craig Matheson


Quick Info

Nationality: GB
Hardest Sport (Worked): 8b+
Hardest Trad (Worked): E10
Social Media

Quick Info

Nationality: GB
Hardest Sport (Worked): 8b+
Hardest Trad (Worked): E10
Social Media

Pics + Vids

Hard Cheese (E10, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 08:11 on 07 November 2021
Hard Cheese (E10, FA)
Added at 22:11 on 29 November 2021
Welcome to the Cruel World (E9)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 16:09 on 02 September 2021

Ascents

8 recorded ascents.

Year Climb Grade FA Ascent Date
2013 Peppered Boursin E7 (Lead) 26 Aug 2013
2014
2015
2016 Mr. Cuddles E8 (Lead) 10 Apr 2016
Head Like a Hole 8b+ (Lead) 09 Oct 2016

Second ascent.

2017
2018 Welcome to the Cruel World E9 (Lead) 26 Aug 2018

In my experience of Lakeland E9's 'Welcome to the Cruel World' stands above the rest when it comes to pure physical difficultly. [2]

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CTUe4A4jtsS/

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2021/11/first_ascent_of_hard_cheese_e10_7a_for_craig_matheson-72926

2019 Hasty Sin Oot Ert Hoonds? E9 (Lead) 12 May 2019
Nowt Burra Flee'in Thing E8 (Lead) 29 Jun 2019
If 6 was 9 E9 (Lead) 08 Nov 2019
2020
2021 Hard Cheese E10 (Lead) 28 May 2021

A crucial RP protects the top of the route. Craig found he couldn't place the piece reliably so opted to pre-place it instead. Even clipping the pre-placed wire was so strenuous that he opted to velcro a quickdraw to his t-shirt to speed up the process! [2]

On the RP, Craig noted:

If you go and try 'Hard Cheese' and you want to drop a rope down the crag to do this, then please do not use this 'RP' placement, to clip your abseil rope into – this placement is both fragile and poor. It needs to be preserved for those on the lead. The placement only works with a downwards pull and an outwards loading of an abseil 'deviation' will strip it – many thanks.

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CV9zvGrDdKl/

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2021/11/first_ascent_of_hard_cheese_e10_7a_for_craig_matheson-72926

[3] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2021/11/the_story_of_hard_cheese_e10_7a-72947

[4] Interview with Franco Cookson https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o72LLws0gEQ

Climb Grade FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Head Like a Hole 8b+ (Lead) 09 Oct 2016

Second ascent.

Climb Grade FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Climb Grade FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Hard Cheese E10 (Lead) 28 May 2021

A crucial RP protects the top of the route. Craig found he couldn't place the piece reliably so opted to pre-place it instead. Even clipping the pre-placed wire was so strenuous that he opted to velcro a quickdraw to his t-shirt to speed up the process! [2]

On the RP, Craig noted:

If you go and try 'Hard Cheese' and you want to drop a rope down the crag to do this, then please do not use this 'RP' placement, to clip your abseil rope into – this placement is both fragile and poor. It needs to be preserved for those on the lead. The placement only works with a downwards pull and an outwards loading of an abseil 'deviation' will strip it – many thanks.

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CV9zvGrDdKl/

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2021/11/first_ascent_of_hard_cheese_e10_7a_for_craig_matheson-72926

[3] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2021/11/the_story_of_hard_cheese_e10_7a-72947

[4] Interview with Franco Cookson https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o72LLws0gEQ

Welcome to the Cruel World E9 (Lead) 26 Aug 2018

In my experience of Lakeland E9's 'Welcome to the Cruel World' stands above the rest when it comes to pure physical difficultly. [2]

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CTUe4A4jtsS/

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2021/11/first_ascent_of_hard_cheese_e10_7a_for_craig_matheson-72926

Hasty Sin Oot Ert Hoonds? E9 (Lead) 12 May 2019
If 6 was 9 E9 (Lead) 08 Nov 2019
Mr. Cuddles E8 (Lead) 10 Apr 2016
Nowt Burra Flee'in Thing E8 (Lead) 29 Jun 2019
Peppered Boursin E7 (Lead) 26 Aug 2013
Climb Grade FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade