Craig Matheson


Quick Info

Nationality: GB
Hardest Sport (Worked): 8b+
Hardest Trad (Worked): E10
Social Media

Contributors: remus

Quick Info

Nationality: GB
Hardest Sport (Worked): 8b+
Hardest Trad (Worked): E10
Social Media
Contributors: remus

Lists


Pics + Vids

Hard Cheese (E10, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 08:11 on 07 November 2021
Hard Cheese (E10, FA)
Added at 22:11 on 29 November 2021
Welcome to the Cruel World (E9)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 16:09 on 02 September 2021

Ascents

8 recorded ascents.

Year Climb Grade Style Ascent Date
2013 Peppered Boursin E7 Lead | worked 26th Aug 2013
2014
2015
2016 Mr. Cuddles E8 Lead | worked 10th Apr 2016
First ascent.
Head Like a Hole 8b+ Lead | worked 9th Oct 2016
Second ascent.
2017
2018 Welcome to the Cruel World E9 Lead | worked 26th Aug 2018

In my experience of Lakeland E9's 'Welcome to the Cruel World' stands above the rest when it comes to pure physical difficultly. [2]

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CTUe4A4jtsS/

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2021/11/first_ascent_of_hard_cheese_e10_7a_for_craig_matheson-72926

2019 Hasty Sin Oot Ert Hoonds? E9 Lead | worked 12th May 2019
Nowt Burra Flee'in Thing E8 Lead | worked 29th Jun 2019
If 6 was 9 E9 Lead | worked 8th Nov 2019
2020
2021 Hard Cheese E10 Lead | worked 28th May 2021
First ascent.

A crucial RP protects the top of the route. Craig found he couldn't place the piece reliably so opted to pre-place it instead. Even clipping the pre-placed wire was so strenuous that he opted to velcro a quickdraw to his t-shirt to speed up the process! [2]

On the RP, Craig noted:

If you go and try 'Hard Cheese' and you want to drop a rope down the crag to do this, then please do not use this 'RP' placement, to clip your abseil rope into – this placement is both fragile and poor. It needs to be preserved for those on the lead. The placement only works with a downwards pull and an outwards loading of an abseil 'deviation' will strip it – many thanks.

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CV9zvGrDdKl/

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2021/11/first_ascent_of_hard_cheese_e10_7a_for_craig_matheson-72926

[3] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2021/11/the_story_of_hard_cheese_e10_7a-72947

[4] Interview with Franco Cookson https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o72LLws0gEQ

Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Head Like a Hole 8b+ Lead | worked 9th Oct 2016
Second ascent.
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Hard Cheese E10 Lead | worked 28th May 2021
First ascent.

A crucial RP protects the top of the route. Craig found he couldn't place the piece reliably so opted to pre-place it instead. Even clipping the pre-placed wire was so strenuous that he opted to velcro a quickdraw to his t-shirt to speed up the process! [2]

On the RP, Craig noted:

If you go and try 'Hard Cheese' and you want to drop a rope down the crag to do this, then please do not use this 'RP' placement, to clip your abseil rope into – this placement is both fragile and poor. It needs to be preserved for those on the lead. The placement only works with a downwards pull and an outwards loading of an abseil 'deviation' will strip it – many thanks.

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CV9zvGrDdKl/

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2021/11/first_ascent_of_hard_cheese_e10_7a_for_craig_matheson-72926

[3] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2021/11/the_story_of_hard_cheese_e10_7a-72947

[4] Interview with Franco Cookson https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o72LLws0gEQ

Welcome to the Cruel World E9 Lead | worked 26th Aug 2018

In my experience of Lakeland E9's 'Welcome to the Cruel World' stands above the rest when it comes to pure physical difficultly. [2]

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CTUe4A4jtsS/

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2021/11/first_ascent_of_hard_cheese_e10_7a_for_craig_matheson-72926

Hasty Sin Oot Ert Hoonds? E9 Lead | worked 12th May 2019
If 6 was 9 E9 Lead | worked 8th Nov 2019
Mr. Cuddles E8 Lead | worked 10th Apr 2016
First ascent.
Nowt Burra Flee'in Thing E8 Lead | worked 29th Jun 2019
Peppered Boursin E7 Lead | worked 26th Aug 2013
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade