Orca | 8c+ Sport route at Schleierwasserfall

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Morpho. See also Fugu.

A tricky route to grade. Originally Alex Huber suggested 8c+. A hold then broke and Adam Ondra found a new sequence for which he suggested 9a, and then a few months later Jakob Schubert found yet another sequence for which he thought 8b!

Contributors: remus
Added 21st June 2024. Last updated 21st June 2024.

Ascents

3 recorded ascents.

Climber Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Alex Huber Lead | worked 2001 8c+
First ascent.
Adam Ondra Lead | worked 15th Jul 2020 9a
Jakob Schubert Lead | worked 2nd Nov 2020 8b

I found a way better solution using a good side pull just left of Adam's crimp which lets me go directly to the finishing jug. Since this route is pretty much easy except this only move, the whole thing is much easier with my beta now, probably around 8b 😅 It climbs very nicely this way though so I definitely recommend it to people (>170cm) 😉 [1]

References

[1] https://www.thecrag.com/en/climbing/austria/schleier-wasserfall-main/route/689761602