Meiose | 9a Sport route

8a.nu
Contributors
22 contributions since 5th October 2021.

Pics + Vids

No pics or vids yet.

French

9a 9a (hard) 9a/9a+ 9a+ (soft) 9a+ 9a+ (hard) 9a+/9b 9b (soft) 9b No vote
2 - - 1 - - - - 1 0

Ascents

4 successful ascents recorded.

Climber Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
First ascent.

References

[1] https://vimeo.com/174366123

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2015/11/meiose_9b_first_ascent_by_pirmin_bertle-70101
Second ascent. 1 session.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/BepiiOxlmfe/

Today I had a look at the harder version called "Meiose" and I have to say, the way Pirmin Bertle climbed it, it is 9a+. That's not the way it makes sense to me though as it eliminates some holds that are totally in reach and in the line too. I did climb route (in my eyes) and clipped the same line of quickdraws, but I used very different beta and also different holds for some parts. I just did it the way it seemed logical to me. The way I did it was around 9a, but it has nothing to do with the original beta Pirmin used. [1]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CUinA5bM6hV/
Alex Rohr Lead | worked 18th Oct 2021 9a