The Ace | 8B Boulder problem at Stanage

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First ascent.

Various dates between 2000 and 2002 have been reported for the first ascent. It was reported in On The Edge #105 (March 2001 edition) which suggests it was done around January 2001 [4].

If the truth be known, it had been my goal for the last three years; either I'd just not been in good enough shape to try it, or the conditions were not right. As soon as I started trying The Ace everybody who had done The Joker was attempting it this way, which added to the pressure. My advantage was that I felt good on The Joker. If I could just get in to the top moves feeling strong, I knew i could do it. My sequence didn't feel right though and I was intrigued to find out about an alternative sequence Ben Moon had been trying. First chance I had I went straight back to the crag and tried his method. I hit the top second go but couldn't hold it. The friction wasn't good that day, but I returned in better conditions and for it done. [5]

References

[1] Revelations by Jerry Moffatt and Niall Grimes, 2009. Page 225.

[2] Peak Rock by Phil Kelly, Graham Hoey and Giles Barker, 2013. Page 310.

[3] https://www.climber.co.uk/news/dave-mason-repeats-the-ace/

[4] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,33255.msg666546.html#msg666546

[5] Climber magazine

Second ascent.

References

[1] Confirmed Ben made the second ascent via email correspondence, 30th November 2023.

Third ascent.

References

[1]https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2001/12/malcolm_smith_repeats_careless_torque_-_as_fawcett_watches-2119

Fourth ascent.

References

[1] Winter Sessions @ 49:30

Fifth ascent.

References

[1] https://www.climbing.com/news/andrew-earl-the-ace-climber/

References

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg345285.html#msg345285

References

[1] https://vimeo.com/121274111

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/ymtgQOvdb5/

References

[1] https://vimeo.com/142486299

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ToKsbMdDx_0

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/watch/?v=1046600605379342

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/BSE3dxNgbn5/

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hCJkVXzgXCI

References

[1] https://youtu.be/y6mHPXtge4w?t=425

James' first 8B on grit.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CXtsRyBopc_/

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/CX11GN2M0PA/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/reel/Cj583qMDxR-/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/reel/Ckd-fzCDt6a/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CllbbB7jxn-/

Freak moment! Executed just perfectly! Thanks for the beta Will and Leon for beta, and extra psyche by the legend himself Jerry [Moffatt] and Magnus [Midtbø]!

Jerry Moffatt:

That was fucking awesome! [2]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/Cnzog4ZoynB/

[2] https://youtu.be/xe8PeQgbvEs?t=939

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CpKlpyXD6By/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CqlNsAJDSKJ/

Over 30 sessions.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/Cy1SRjbtoUg/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C0PWHpytbXb/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C1cakLotLo3/

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JUaN3OFflWI

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/reel/C5rOi9uNcd5/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/reel/C7o7xRQtQdU/

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2024/05/max_milne_flashes_the_ace_8b-73697

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C7pi1UgNclv/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/reel/DFidyWxstGf/

Gus purposefully didn't climb The Joker beforehand, so when he did The Ace it would be his first time sticking the move to the jug.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/reel/DHEX9yitkCD/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bGsiKRXJatI