Just Do It | 8c+ Sport route at Smith Rock

The first 8c+ in the USA. Bolted by Alan Watts in 1989.


Pics + Vids

Jean-Baptiste Tribout
View this post on Instagram

Added at 06:06 on 20 June 2022
Ryan Palo
Added at 18:04 on 06 April 2022
Paige Classen
Added at 18:04 on 06 April 2022
Drew Ruana
Added at 18:04 on 06 April 2022
Kilian Fischhuber
View this post on Instagram

Added at 17:04 on 06 April 2022
Ted Kingsnorth
Added at 22:11 on 01 November 2021
Adam Ondra
Added at 18:12 on 18 December 2020

Ascents

17 recorded ascents.

Climber Style FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Jean-Baptiste Tribout Lead (Worked) 16th April 1992 (approx)

As for the controversy, even if no one had tried the route when I started, Allan Watts bolted the line and tried it a little bit, and at that time the belief was that a line belonged to their bolter and no one else could have a go. So there was some tension with a few locals ... The cool thing is that on the very evening of my success, the boss of Metolius [Doug Philips] invited us to the best restaurant in Bend to celebrate and that, the next day, a doctor/climber organised a big party at his place with locals climbers and we partied, drank, consumed a lot of illicit substances, and it was a wonderful moment of reconciliation with the local community. This route and this ascent have been one of the peaks of my climbing career, one of the times I was certainly the strongest. At this famous party, I moreover won the pull-up contest, on cocaine it's true, but clocking 80 pull-ups in a row nonetheless… That's still a pretty number! [1]

References

[1] https://fanatic-climbing.com/il-etait-une-voie-once-upon-a-line-just-do-it/

[2] http://novebi.ning.com/group/smithrockclimbing/forum/topics/1389802:Topic:20521

[3] https://www.instagram.com/p/CfAO2ikvrr1/

Marc le Menestrel Lead (Worked) 1st May 1994 (approx)

2nd ascent - see news report from Allez magazine issue 4 http://king-dino.blogspot.com/2011/04/allez-southern-californias-crag-mag.html Pic by Steve Lewis who met him out there and witnessed the ascent. I understand there are further pics in On the Edge mag in 1994 or maybe 1995 https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/smith_rock_or_smith_rocks-3025/

Jean-Paul Finne Lead (Worked) 1st April 1995 (approx)

3rd ascent - see news report from Allez magazine issue 4 http://king-dino.blogspot.com/2011/04/allez-southern-californias-crag-mag.html

Chris Sharma Lead (Worked) 1st April 1997 (approx)

First American ascent. 3 days' work, famously taking jumper off mid-route. https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/alan-watts-climbing-interview.html

Marko Lukic Lead (Worked) 1st October 1997 (approx)

8 days' work https://www.kozjak.org/odprava_prikazi.php?pid=23 https://www.libreriadesnivel.com/revistas/escalar/indice/?page=79&order=titulo

David Hume Lead (Worked) 1st October 1999 (approx)

In only 4 tries, soon after establishing Thanatopsis 8c in the RRG https://www.saclimb.co.za/news1999.html https://www.mountainzone.com/climbing/99/interviews/brown/

Sonnie Trotter Lead (Worked) 1st January 2000 (approx)

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sonnie_Trotter

Ethan Pringle Lead (Worked) 15th May 2006 (approx)

https://www.8a.nu/crags/sportclimbing/united-states/monkey-face/sectors/unknown-sector/routes/just-do-it/

Enzo Oddo Lead (Worked) 1st October 2010 (approx)

https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/enzo-oddo-does-just-do-it-at-smith-rock.html

Jonathan Siegrest Lead (Worked) 8th June 2011 (approx)

http://www.jonathansiegrist.com/2011/06/just-did-it.html

Ryan Palo Lead (Worked) 19th May 2012 (approx)

First central Oregonian to climb 5.14c! https://www.bendsource.com/bend/the-paleo-diet-local-crusher-ryan-palo-recently-became-the-first-central-oregonian-to-climb-514c-at-smith/Content?oid=2178460 https://vimeo.com/56333259

Paige Classen Lead (Worked) 1st May 2014 (approx)

Just Do It was the culmination of all those years of practice. No more half committed efforts. No more wobbling. No fear, no doubts, no second guessing. I had to climb confidently and I had to try harder than I’d ever tried in my life. https://vimeo.com/101821686

Drew Ruana Lead (Worked) 22nd November 2014

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X-5om6lG_d8

Said Belhaj Lead (Worked) 1st November 2015 (approx)

https://www.8a.nu/news/said-belhaj-just-did-just-do-it-8c https://lyofood.com/pages/said-belhaj-in-the-usa

Kilian Fischhuber Lead (Worked) 13th October 2017

https://www.instagram.com/p/BaNYb0cAPBT/

Ted Kingsnorth Lead (Worked) 2nd June 2018

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DK9G8GF1zRM

Adam Ondra Lead (Onsight) 10th November 2018

An incredible onsight given the technical nature of the climbing.

A dream :-)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S6floyyDP-w