Just Do It | 8c+ Sport route at Smith Rock

UKClimbing.com

The first 8c+ in the USA. Bolted by Alan Watts in 1989.

References

[1] https://open.spotify.com/episode/30qPube60E0HHtsSacKlHF?

Contributors: Ted Kingsnorth, remus

Pics + Vids

Jean-Baptiste Tribout
View this post on Instagram

Added at 06:06 on 20 June 2022
Jean-Baptiste Tribout
Added at 16:01 on 08 January 2024
Chris Sharma
View this post on Instagram

Added at 17:01 on 14 January 2024
Ryan Palo
Added at 18:04 on 06 April 2022
Paige Classen
Added at 18:04 on 06 April 2022
Drew Ruana
Added at 18:04 on 06 April 2022
Kilian Fischhuber
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Added at 17:04 on 06 April 2022
Ted Kingsnorth
Added at 22:11 on 01 November 2021
Ted Kingsnorth
Added at 18:12 on 31 December 2023
Adam Ondra
Added at 18:12 on 18 December 2020
Adam Ondra
Added at 16:01 on 08 January 2024
Adam Ondra
Added at 18:01 on 14 January 2024

Ascents

17 recorded ascents.

Climber Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Jean-Baptiste Tribout Lead | worked Apr 1992
First ascent.

As for the controversy, even if no one had tried the route when I started, Allan Watts bolted the line and tried it a little bit, and at that time the belief was that a line belonged to their bolter and no one else could have a go. So there was some tension with a few locals ... The cool thing is that on the very evening of my success, the boss of Metolius [Doug Philips] invited us to the best restaurant in Bend to celebrate and that, the next day, a doctor/climber organised a big party at his place with locals climbers and we partied, drank, consumed a lot of illicit substances, and it was a wonderful moment of reconciliation with the local community. This route and this ascent have been one of the peaks of my climbing career, one of the times I was certainly the strongest. At this famous party, I moreover won the pull-up contest, on cocaine it's true, but clocking 80 pull-ups in a row nonetheless… That's still a pretty number! [1]

References

[1] https://fanatic-climbing.com/il-etait-une-voie-once-upon-a-line-just-do-it/

[2] http://novebi.ning.com/group/smithrockclimbing/forum/topics/1389802:Topic:20521

[3] https://www.instagram.com/p/CfAO2ikvrr1/

[4] https://open.spotify.com/episode/1pZeqpNbv3KPe40WYci63E?

Marc le Menestrel Lead | worked May 1994
Second ascent.

References

[1] News report from Allez magazine issue 4 http://king-dino.blogspot.com/2011/04/allez-southern-californias-crag-mag.html

[2] Pic by Steve Lewis who met him out there and witnessed the ascent. There may be further pics in an issue On The Edge from 1994 or 1995?

Jean-Paul Finne Lead | worked Apr 1995
Third ascent.

References

[1] See news report from Allez magazine issue 4 http://king-dino.blogspot.com/2011/04/allez-southern-californias-crag-mag.html

Chris Sharma Lead | worked Apr 1997
3 sessions.

First American ascent. Famously Chris took his jumper off mid-route, this was very memorable because at the time it was one of the hardest routes in America, and to climb the route with such apparent casualness signalled to many that a new generation of US climbing talent had arrived that was a equal to those operating at the highest levels in sport climbing.

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/alan-watts-climbing-interview.html

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/BddU4Qln3au/

Marko Lukic Lead | worked Oct 1997
David Hume Lead | worked Oct 1999
Fourth go.

Soon after establishing Thanatopsis 8c in the Red River Gorge.

References

[1] https://www.saclimb.co.za/news1999.html

[2] https://www.mountainzone.com/climbing/99/interviews/brown/

Sonnie Trotter Lead | worked 7th Jan 2001
Ethan Pringle Lead | worked May 2006
Enzo Oddo Lead | worked Oct 2010
Jonathan Siegrest Lead | worked Jun 2011
Ryan Palo Lead | worked May 2012
Paige Classen Lead | worked May 2014

Just Do It was the culmination of all those years of practice. No more half committed efforts. No more wobbling. No fear, no doubts, no second guessing. I had to climb confidently and I had to try harder than I’d ever tried in my life. https://vimeo.com/101821686

Drew Ruana Lead | worked 22nd Nov 2014
Said Belhaj Lead | worked Nov 2015
Kilian Fischhuber Lead | worked 13th Oct 2017
Ted Kingsnorth Lead | worked 2nd Jun 2018

References

[1] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DK9G8GF1zRM](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DK9G8GF1zRM]

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9c0Xl943TQc

[3] https://tedkingsnorth.blogspot.com/2018/06/just-do-it.html

Adam Ondra Lead | onsight 10th Nov 2018

An incredible onsight given the technical nature of the climbing.

A dream :-)

Alan Watts, prolific Smith Rock developer and equipper of Just Do It, talking to Adam after watching his onsight:

Wow! That was the best thing I've ever seen in climbing! In 45 years that's the best thing I've ever seen. [3]

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S6floyyDP-w

[2] https://open.spotify.com/episode/3zSBUkgNGh7ij0a81Z664n?

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xeDECxrxUnE