Just Do It | 8c+ Sport route at Smith Rock

The first 8c+ in the USA. Bolted by Alan Watts in 1989.


Pics + Vids

Jean-Baptiste Tribout
View this post on Instagram

Added at 06:06 on 20 June 2022
Ryan Palo
Added at 18:04 on 06 April 2022
Paige Classen
Added at 18:04 on 06 April 2022
Drew Ruana
Added at 18:04 on 06 April 2022
Kilian Fischhuber
View this post on Instagram

Added at 17:04 on 06 April 2022
Ted Kingsnorth
Added at 22:11 on 01 November 2021
Adam Ondra
Added at 18:12 on 18 December 2020

Ascents

17 recorded ascents.

Climber Style FA Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Jean-Baptiste Tribout Lead (Worked) April 1992

As for the controversy, even if no one had tried the route when I started, Allan Watts bolted the line and tried it a little bit, and at that time the belief was that a line belonged to their bolter and no one else could have a go. So there was some tension with a few locals ... The cool thing is that on the very evening of my success, the boss of Metolius [Doug Philips] invited us to the best restaurant in Bend to celebrate and that, the next day, a doctor/climber organised a big party at his place with locals climbers and we partied, drank, consumed a lot of illicit substances, and it was a wonderful moment of reconciliation with the local community. This route and this ascent have been one of the peaks of my climbing career, one of the times I was certainly the strongest. At this famous party, I moreover won the pull-up contest, on cocaine it's true, but clocking 80 pull-ups in a row nonetheless… That's still a pretty number! [1]

References

[1] https://fanatic-climbing.com/il-etait-une-voie-once-upon-a-line-just-do-it/

[2] http://novebi.ning.com/group/smithrockclimbing/forum/topics/1389802:Topic:20521

[3] https://www.instagram.com/p/CfAO2ikvrr1/

Marc le Menestrel Lead (Worked) May 1994

2nd ascent - see news report from Allez magazine issue 4 http://king-dino.blogspot.com/2011/04/allez-southern-californias-crag-mag.html Pic by Steve Lewis who met him out there and witnessed the ascent. I understand there are further pics in On the Edge mag in 1994 or maybe 1995 https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/smith_rock_or_smith_rocks-3025/

Jean-Paul Finne Lead (Worked) April 1995

3rd ascent - see news report from Allez magazine issue 4 http://king-dino.blogspot.com/2011/04/allez-southern-californias-crag-mag.html

Chris Sharma Lead (Worked) April 1997

First American ascent. 3 days' work, famously taking jumper off mid-route. https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/alan-watts-climbing-interview.html

Marko Lukic Lead (Worked) October 1997

8 days' work https://www.kozjak.org/odprava_prikazi.php?pid=23 https://www.libreriadesnivel.com/revistas/escalar/indice/?page=79&order=titulo

David Hume Lead (Worked) October 1999

In only 4 tries, soon after establishing Thanatopsis 8c in the RRG https://www.saclimb.co.za/news1999.html https://www.mountainzone.com/climbing/99/interviews/brown/

Sonnie Trotter Lead (Worked) 2000

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sonnie_Trotter

Ethan Pringle Lead (Worked) May 2006

https://www.8a.nu/crags/sportclimbing/united-states/monkey-face/sectors/unknown-sector/routes/just-do-it/

Enzo Oddo Lead (Worked) October 2010

https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/enzo-oddo-does-just-do-it-at-smith-rock.html

Jonathan Siegrest Lead (Worked) June 2011

http://www.jonathansiegrist.com/2011/06/just-did-it.html

Ryan Palo Lead (Worked) May 2012

First central Oregonian to climb 5.14c! https://www.bendsource.com/bend/the-paleo-diet-local-crusher-ryan-palo-recently-became-the-first-central-oregonian-to-climb-514c-at-smith/Content?oid=2178460 https://vimeo.com/56333259

Paige Classen Lead (Worked) May 2014

Just Do It was the culmination of all those years of practice. No more half committed efforts. No more wobbling. No fear, no doubts, no second guessing. I had to climb confidently and I had to try harder than I’d ever tried in my life. https://vimeo.com/101821686

Drew Ruana Lead (Worked) 22nd November 2014

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X-5om6lG_d8

Said Belhaj Lead (Worked) November 2015

https://www.8a.nu/news/said-belhaj-just-did-just-do-it-8c https://lyofood.com/pages/said-belhaj-in-the-usa

Kilian Fischhuber Lead (Worked) 13th October 2017

https://www.instagram.com/p/BaNYb0cAPBT/

Ted Kingsnorth Lead (Worked) 2nd June 2018

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DK9G8GF1zRM

Adam Ondra Lead (Onsight) 10th November 2018

An incredible onsight given the technical nature of the climbing.

A dream :-)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S6floyyDP-w