Just Do It | 8c+ Sport route at Smith Rock

As for the controversy, even if no one had tried the route when I started, Allan Watts bolted the line and tried it a little bit, and at that time the belief was that a line belonged to their bolter and no one else could have a go. So there was some tension with a few locals ... The cool thing is that on the very evening of my success, the boss of Metolius [Doug Philips] invited us to the best restaurant in Bend to celebrate and that, the next day, a doctor/climber organised a big party at his place with locals climbers and we partied, drank, consumed a lot of illicit substances, and it was a wonderful moment of reconciliation with the local community. This route and this ascent have been one of the peaks of my climbing career, one of the times I was certainly the strongest. At this famous party, I moreover won the pull-up contest, on cocaine it's true, but clocking 80 pull-ups in a row nonetheless… That's still a pretty number! [1]

References

[1] https://fanatic-climbing.com/il-etait-une-voie-once-upon-a-line-just-do-it/

[2] http://novebi.ning.com/group/smithrockclimbing/forum/topics/1389802:Topic:20521

[3] https://www.instagram.com/p/CfAO2ikvrr1/

2nd ascent - see news report from Allez magazine issue 4 http://king-dino.blogspot.com/2011/04/allez-southern-californias-crag-mag.html Pic by Steve Lewis who met him out there and witnessed the ascent. I understand there are further pics in On the Edge mag in 1994 or maybe 1995 https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/smith_rock_or_smith_rocks-3025/

3rd ascent - see news report from Allez magazine issue 4 http://king-dino.blogspot.com/2011/04/allez-southern-californias-crag-mag.html

First American ascent. 3 days' work, famously taking jumper off mid-route. https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/alan-watts-climbing-interview.html

8 days' work https://www.kozjak.org/odprava_prikazi.php?pid=23 https://www.libreriadesnivel.com/revistas/escalar/indice/?page=79&order=titulo

In only 4 tries, soon after establishing Thanatopsis 8c in the RRG https://www.saclimb.co.za/news1999.html https://www.mountainzone.com/climbing/99/interviews/brown/

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sonnie_Trotter

https://www.8a.nu/crags/sportclimbing/united-states/monkey-face/sectors/unknown-sector/routes/just-do-it/

https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/enzo-oddo-does-just-do-it-at-smith-rock.html

http://www.jonathansiegrist.com/2011/06/just-did-it.html

First central Oregonian to climb 5.14c! https://www.bendsource.com/bend/the-paleo-diet-local-crusher-ryan-palo-recently-became-the-first-central-oregonian-to-climb-514c-at-smith/Content?oid=2178460 https://vimeo.com/56333259

Just Do It was the culmination of all those years of practice. No more half committed efforts. No more wobbling. No fear, no doubts, no second guessing. I had to climb confidently and I had to try harder than I’d ever tried in my life. https://vimeo.com/101821686

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X-5om6lG_d8

https://www.8a.nu/news/said-belhaj-just-did-just-do-it-8c https://lyofood.com/pages/said-belhaj-in-the-usa

https://www.instagram.com/p/BaNYb0cAPBT/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DK9G8GF1zRM

An incredible onsight given the technical nature of the climbing.

A dream :-)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S6floyyDP-w