Alex Megos
Quick Info ˅
| Nationality: | DE |
| Date of birth: | 12th August 1993 |
| Hardest Boulder (Worked): | 8C |
| Hardest Boulder (Flash): | 8B |
| Hardest Sport (Worked): | 9b+ |
| Hardest Sport (Onsight): | 9a |
| Hardest Sport (Flash): | 9a |
| Hardest Trad (Flash): | E9 |
Alex Megos grew up in the Frankenjura area Germany and specialises in sport climbing and bouldering. He's famed for very fast ascents of hard testpieces as well as establishing some of the hardest sport routes in the world.
Alex was the first person in the world to onsight 9a with his ascent of Estado Crítico in Siurana.
Sources
[1] Interview with RockClimbingUK
[2] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alexander_Megos
Lists
Podcasts
- Jam Crack Podcast, November 2016
- Jam Crack Podcast, December 2020
- The Struggle Climbing Show, March 2022
- The Struggle Climbing Show, January 2023
- The Careless Talk Climbing Podcast, October 2023
- Written in Stone, November 2023
Pics + Vids
Action Directe (9a)
Wonka Vision (9c)
Sleeping Lion (9b)
Sleeping Lion (9b)
Sleeping Lion (9b)
Upgrade U (8C, FA)
Montecore (8C)
Perfecto Mundo (9b+, FA)
Fight Club (9b, FA)
Hubble (9a)
Bibliographie (9b+, FA)
Louis Cut (8B+, FA)
Das Pumpenhausen (8B, FA)
Mejorando Imagen (9b)
King Capella (9b)
La Furia de Jabali (9a+)
Za Staro Kolo In Majhnega Psa (8c+)
The Full Journey (9b, FA)
Bat Route (8c)
Unjustified (8b+)
Cadafist (9a, FA)
Wunderheiler (9a)
Intermezzo XY Gelöst (9a)
Northern Lights (9a)
Hubble (9a)
Kaa'bah (8c+)
Evolution (8c+)
Perfecto Mundo (9b+, FA)
Era Vella (9a)
First Round, First Minute (9b)
The Finnish Line (8C)
Dreamcatcher (9a)
The Path (E9)
Kulebras Gemelas (9a, FA)
La Capella (9b)
La Castagne (9a+)
Lucid Dreaming (8C)
Lucid Dreaming (8C)
Ratstaman Vibrations (9b, FA)
Estado Crítico (9a)
Ascents
74 recorded ascents.
| Year | Climb | Grade | Style | Ascent Date |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2009 | Pain Makes Me Stronger, Every Day | 8c | Lead | worked | 29th May 2009 |
|
Second go.
|
||||
| 2010 | ||||
| 2011 | Raubritter | 8c | Lead | flash | 10th Aug 2011 |
| 2012 | Estado Crítico | 9a | Lead | onsight | 24th Mar 2012 |
|
The first ever onsight of a 9a. Doubly impressive as up until that point the hardest route Alex had climbed was 9a. Alex had originally planned to try La Rambla Extension but couldn't find the route from the topo and so got on Estado instead. When he reached the point where the route splits with Kalea Borroka he nearly went up Kalea instead as he felt very pumped, fortunately he persevered! References |
||||
| Roof Warrior | 8c | Lead | flash | 1st May 2012 | |
| Pure Imagination | 8c+ | Lead | flash | Nov 2012 | |
|
Alex's first flash of the grade. https://dmmwales.com/Journal/December-2012/Megos-impresses-in-the-States |
||||
| 2013 | La Rambla Extension | 9a+ | Lead | worked | Mar 2013 |
|
Second go.
|
||||
| Classified | 9a | Lead | worked | 26th Apr 2013 | |
|
First ascent. Third go.
Alex's first new route in the Frankenjura. References |
||||
| Das Pumpenhausen | 8B | Boulder | worked | May 2013 | |
|
First ascent.
References[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/05/alex_megos_climbs_new_8b_at_porth_ysgo_wales-68080 |
||||
| Corona | 9a+ | Lead | worked | May 2013 | |
| The Wheel of Life | 9a | Boulder | worked | 6th Jul 2013 | |
| RED | 9a | Lead | worked | 18th Aug 2013 | |
|
First ascent.
|
||||
| 2014 | Montecore | 8C | Boulder | worked | 2014 |
|
Fifth ascent.
References[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2014/12/montecore_8c_and_riot_act_8b+_by_megos-69341 |
||||
| Mecca - The Mid-life Crisis | 8b+ | Lead | worked | 2014 | |
|
Second go.
|
||||
| Action Directe | 9a | Lead | worked | 3rd May 2014 | |
| Bat Route | 8c | Lead | worked | Jun 2014 | |
References |
||||
| Unjustified | 8b+ | Lead | worked | Jun 2014 | |
| Biographie | 9a+ | Lead | worked | 11th Jul 2014 | |
|
1 session. Third go.
References[1] https://www.facebook.com/AlexanderMegosSportler/posts/440127572793892 |
||||
| Los Revolucionarios | 9a | Lead | worked | Oct 2014 | |
|
Second ascent.
|
||||
| 2015 | Flat Mountain | 9a | Lead | worked | 2015 |
|
Third ascent. 2 sessions. 7 attempts.
References[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2015/03/alex_megos_repeats_flat_mountain_9a+-69612 |
||||
| Lucid Dreaming | 8C | Boulder | worked | 27th Jan 2015 | |
|
Third ascent. 11 sessions.
References |
||||
| Supernova | 9a+ | Lead | worked | 2nd Oct 2015 | |
| First Round, First Minute | 9b | Lead | worked | 31st Dec 2015 | |
|
Alex's first of the grade. https://www.facebook.com/AlexanderMegosSportler/photos/1057809127692397 |
||||
| 2016 | Hubble | 9a | Lead | worked | 31st May 2016 |
| Kaa'bah | 8c+ | Lead | worked | Jun 2016 | |
|
Fourth go.
References[1] https://www.facebook.com/AlexanderMegosSportler/photos/a.428895480583768/731664970306816/?type=3 |
||||
| Progress | 8c+ | Lead | worked | Jun 2016 | |
|
Second go.
|
||||
| True North | 8c | Lead | worked | Jun 2016 | |
|
Second go.
Second go. |
||||
| Evolution | 8c+ | Lead | worked | 3rd Jun 2016 | |
|
Third go.
References[1] https://www.facebook.com/AlexanderMegosSportler/photos/a.428895480583768/731664970306816/?type=3 |
||||
| Northern Lights | 9a | Lead | worked | 5th Jun 2016 | |
| Louis Cut | 8B+ | Boulder | worked | 10th Jun 2016 | |
|
First ascent.
References |
||||
| The Path | E9 | Lead | flash | Aug 2016 | |
|
A very impressive effort given Alex had done very little trad climbing. https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2016/08/the_path_514ar_trad_flash_by_alex_megos-70630 https://www.facebook.com/AlexanderMegosSportler/photos/767732296700083 |
||||
| Dreamcatcher | 9a | Lead | worked | Aug 2016 | |
|
Fourth ascent. Third go.
https://www.facebook.com/AlexanderMegosSportler/photos/773706999435946 |
||||
| Fight Club | 9b | Lead | worked | 14th Aug 2016 | |
|
First ascent.
|
||||
| Super Crackinette | 9a+ | Lead | worked | Oct 2016 | |
| 2017 | Monkey Wedding | 8C | Boulder | worked | 2017 |
| TCT | 9a | Lead | onsight | May 2017 | |
https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2017/05/tct_second_9a_onsight_by_alex_megos-71104 |
||||
| Clash of the Titans | 9a+ | Lead | worked | 17th Jun 2017 | |
|
First ascent.
|
||||
| Jungle Boogie | 9a+ | Lead | worked | 21st Jun 2017 | |
References |
||||
| The Finnish Line | 8C | Boulder | worked | 22nd Jul 2017 | |
| Capricorn | 8c+ | Lead | flash | Nov 2017 | |
| 2018 | Era Vella | 9a | Lead | worked | 17th Apr 2018 |
|
Second go.
References[1] https://www.facebook.com/AlexanderMegosSportler/photos/1120128374793805 |
||||
| Perfecto Mundo | 9b+ | Lead | worked | 9th May 2018 | |
|
First ascent. Belayed by Stefano Ghisolfi. 15 sessions.
Alex became the third person in the world to climb 9b+ with this ascent (after Adam Ondra and Chris Sharma). References[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SbWvFjUIt5k [2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2018/05/perfecto_mundo_9b+_first_ascent_by_alex_megos-71571 [3] https://www.facebook.com/AlexanderMegosSportler/photos/1132511353555507 |
||||
| 2019 | Zoolander | 9a | Lead | worked | 2019 |
|
First ascent.
|
||||
| 2020 | Wonka Vision | 9c (approx) | Lead | did not finish | After 1st Jan 2020 |
| L'étrange Ivresse des Lenteurs | 9a+ | Lead | worked | 2020 | |
| Bibliographie | 9b+ | Lead | worked | 5th Aug 2020 | |
|
First ascent. 60 sessions.
Alex initially suggested 9c but after a (relatively) quick repeat from Stefano Ghisolfi (who found some new beta and suggested a downgrade to 9b+) Alex adjusted his suggestion down to 9b+. References |
||||
| Underground | 8c+ | Lead | flash | 14th Sep 2020 | |
| 2021 | Upgrade U | 8C | Boulder | worked | 2021 |
|
First ascent. Around 10 sessions.
|
||||
| Cadafist | 9a | Lead | worked | 2021 | |
|
First ascent.
References |
||||
| La Castagne | 9a+ | Lead | worked | Mar 2021 | |
|
Second ascent.
References |
||||
| Mejorando Imagen | 9b | Lead | worked | Apr 2021 | |
|
https://www.instagram.com/p/COD4HL9hyHz/ Footage from an earlier attempt https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uYmtaitHdWA |
||||
| Intermezzo XY Gelöst | 9a | Lead | flash | 22nd Sep 2021 | |
References |
||||
| Meiose | 9a+ | Lead | worked | Oct 2021 | |
References |
||||
| Chromosone Y | 8c+ | Lead | flash | Oct 2021 | |
|
First ascent.
|
||||
| Wunderheiler | 9a | Lead | worked | 1st Nov 2021 | |
|
Second ascent?
References |
||||
| King Capella | 9b | Lead | worked | 21st Nov 2021 | |
|
Second ascent. 9 sessions.
Alex used slightly different beta to Will (taking a wide pinch). References |
||||
| La Furia de Jabali | 9a+ | Lead | worked | 29th Nov 2021 | |
|
Second ascent. 7 sessions.
References |
||||
| Kulebras Gemelas | 9a | Lead | worked | 13th Dec 2021 | |
| La Capella | 9b | Lead | worked | 14th Dec 2021 | |
|
Interestingly Alex struggled with La Capella, saying he found it harder than both King Capella and La Furia de Jabali. |
||||
| 2022 | Patatas Pantera | 9a | Lead | worked | 2022 |
|
First ascent.
|
||||
| Ratstaman Vibrations | 9b | Lead | worked | Jul 2022 | |
| Pink Patatas | 9a+ | Lead | worked | Oct 2022 | |
|
First ascent.
|
||||
| Chan Chan Bastards | 9a+ | Lead | worked | Oct 2022 | |
|
First ascent.
|
||||
| Red Ram | 9a+ | Lead | worked | Oct 2022 | |
|
Second ascent. Third go.
|
||||
| The Journey | 9a+ | Lead | worked | Oct 2022 | |
| The Full Journey | 9b | Lead | worked | 5th Oct 2022 | |
| Lazarus | 9a+ | Lead | worked | Between 23rd Nov 2022 and 18th Apr 2024 | |
|
Second ascent.
|
||||
| 2023 | Za Staro Kolo In Majhnega Psa | 8c+ | Lead | worked | Mar 2023 |
| Wrestling With an Alligator | 8B | Boulder | flash | Oct 2023 | |
References |
||||
| The Maze | 9a | Lead | worked | 16th Oct 2023 | |
|
First ascent.
References |
||||
| 2024 | Sleeping Lion | 9b | Lead | worked | 4th Jan 2024 |
|
Second ascent. 8 sessions.
References[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C1uQuUGtsgJ/ [2] https://www.instagram.com/p/C1w8uMKNeun/ [5] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O5wpse9w2eg |
||||
| Climb | Grade | Style | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Wonka Vision | 9c (approx) | Lead | did not finish | After 1st Jan 2020 | |
| Perfecto Mundo | 9b+ | Lead | worked | 9th May 2018 | |
|
First ascent. Belayed by Stefano Ghisolfi. 15 sessions.
Alex became the third person in the world to climb 9b+ with this ascent (after Adam Ondra and Chris Sharma). References[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SbWvFjUIt5k [2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2018/05/perfecto_mundo_9b+_first_ascent_by_alex_megos-71571 [3] https://www.facebook.com/AlexanderMegosSportler/photos/1132511353555507 |
||||
| Bibliographie | 9b+ | Lead | worked | 5th Aug 2020 | 9b+ |
|
First ascent. 60 sessions.
Alex initially suggested 9c but after a (relatively) quick repeat from Stefano Ghisolfi (who found some new beta and suggested a downgrade to 9b+) Alex adjusted his suggestion down to 9b+. References |
||||
| Fight Club | 9b | Lead | worked | 14th Aug 2016 | |
|
First ascent.
|
||||
| Ratstaman Vibrations | 9b | Lead | worked | Jul 2022 | |
| The Full Journey | 9b | Lead | worked | 5th Oct 2022 | |
| First Round, First Minute | 9b | Lead | worked | 31st Dec 2015 | |
|
Alex's first of the grade. https://www.facebook.com/AlexanderMegosSportler/photos/1057809127692397 |
||||
| Mejorando Imagen | 9b | Lead | worked | Apr 2021 | 9b |
|
https://www.instagram.com/p/COD4HL9hyHz/ Footage from an earlier attempt https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uYmtaitHdWA |
||||
| King Capella | 9b | Lead | worked | 21st Nov 2021 | |
|
Second ascent. 9 sessions.
Alex used slightly different beta to Will (taking a wide pinch). References |
||||
| La Capella | 9b | Lead | worked | 14th Dec 2021 | |
|
Interestingly Alex struggled with La Capella, saying he found it harder than both King Capella and La Furia de Jabali. |
||||
| Sleeping Lion | 9b | Lead | worked | 4th Jan 2024 | 9b |
|
Second ascent. 8 sessions.
References[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C1uQuUGtsgJ/ [2] https://www.instagram.com/p/C1w8uMKNeun/ [5] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O5wpse9w2eg |
||||
| Supernova | 9a+ | Lead | worked | 2nd Oct 2015 | |
| Super Crackinette | 9a+ | Lead | worked | Oct 2016 | |
| Clash of the Titans | 9a+ | Lead | worked | 17th Jun 2017 | 9a+ |
|
First ascent.
|
||||
| Pink Patatas | 9a+ | Lead | worked | Oct 2022 | |
|
First ascent.
|
||||
| Chan Chan Bastards | 9a+ | Lead | worked | Oct 2022 | 9a+/9b |
|
First ascent.
|
||||
| La Rambla Extension | 9a+ | Lead | worked | Mar 2013 | |
|
Second go.
|
||||
| Corona | 9a+ | Lead | worked | May 2013 | |
| Biographie | 9a+ | Lead | worked | 11th Jul 2014 | |
|
1 session. Third go.
References[1] https://www.facebook.com/AlexanderMegosSportler/posts/440127572793892 |
||||
| Jungle Boogie | 9a+ | Lead | worked | 21st Jun 2017 | |
References |
||||
| L'étrange Ivresse des Lenteurs | 9a+ | Lead | worked | 2020 | 9a+/9b |
| La Castagne | 9a+ | Lead | worked | Mar 2021 | 9a/9a+ |
|
Second ascent.
References |
||||
| Meiose | 9a+ | Lead | worked | Oct 2021 | 9a |
References |
||||
| La Furia de Jabali | 9a+ | Lead | worked | 29th Nov 2021 | |
|
Second ascent. 7 sessions.
References |
||||
| Red Ram | 9a+ | Lead | worked | Oct 2022 | |
|
Second ascent. Third go.
|
||||
| The Journey | 9a+ | Lead | worked | Oct 2022 | |
| Lazarus | 9a+ | Lead | worked | Between 23rd Nov 2022 and 18th Apr 2024 | |
|
Second ascent.
|
||||
| Mutation | 9a+ | Lead | did not finish | ||
| Classified | 9a | Lead | worked | 26th Apr 2013 | |
|
First ascent. Third go.
Alex's first new route in the Frankenjura. References |
||||
| RED | 9a | Lead | worked | 18th Aug 2013 | |
|
First ascent.
|
||||
| Zoolander | 9a | Lead | worked | 2019 | |
|
First ascent.
|
||||
| Cadafist | 9a | Lead | worked | 2021 | |
|
First ascent.
References |
||||
| Kulebras Gemelas | 9a | Lead | worked | 13th Dec 2021 | |
| Patatas Pantera | 9a | Lead | worked | 2022 | |
|
First ascent.
|
||||
| The Maze | 9a | Lead | worked | 16th Oct 2023 | |
|
First ascent.
References |
||||
| La Ley Indignata | 9a | Lead | worked | ||
|
First ascent.
|
||||
| Wild Público | 9a | Lead | worked | ||
|
First ascent.
|
||||
| Estado Crítico | 9a | Lead | onsight | 24th Mar 2012 | |
|
The first ever onsight of a 9a. Doubly impressive as up until that point the hardest route Alex had climbed was 9a. Alex had originally planned to try La Rambla Extension but couldn't find the route from the topo and so got on Estado instead. When he reached the point where the route splits with Kalea Borroka he nearly went up Kalea instead as he felt very pumped, fortunately he persevered! References |
||||
| Action Directe | 9a | Lead | worked | 3rd May 2014 | |
| Los Revolucionarios | 9a | Lead | worked | Oct 2014 | |
|
Second ascent.
|
||||
| Flat Mountain | 9a | Lead | worked | 2015 | |
|
Third ascent. 2 sessions. 7 attempts.
References[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2015/03/alex_megos_repeats_flat_mountain_9a+-69612 |
||||
| Hubble | 9a | Lead | worked | 31st May 2016 | 8c+ |
| Northern Lights | 9a | Lead | worked | 5th Jun 2016 | |
| Dreamcatcher | 9a | Lead | worked | Aug 2016 | |
|
Fourth ascent. Third go.
https://www.facebook.com/AlexanderMegosSportler/photos/773706999435946 |
||||
| TCT | 9a | Lead | onsight | May 2017 | |
https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2017/05/tct_second_9a_onsight_by_alex_megos-71104 |
||||
| Era Vella | 9a | Lead | worked | 17th Apr 2018 | |
|
Second go.
References[1] https://www.facebook.com/AlexanderMegosSportler/photos/1120128374793805 |
||||
| Intermezzo XY Gelöst | 9a | Lead | flash | 22nd Sep 2021 | |
References |
||||
| Wunderheiler | 9a | Lead | worked | 1st Nov 2021 | 9a/9a+ |
|
Second ascent?
References |
||||
| El Potro | 9a | Lead | worked | ||
| Chromosone Y | 8c+ | Lead | flash | Oct 2021 | 8c+ |
|
First ascent.
|
||||
| Pure Imagination | 8c+ | Lead | flash | Nov 2012 | |
|
Alex's first flash of the grade. https://dmmwales.com/Journal/December-2012/Megos-impresses-in-the-States |
||||
| Kaa'bah | 8c+ | Lead | worked | Jun 2016 | |
|
Fourth go.
References[1] https://www.facebook.com/AlexanderMegosSportler/photos/a.428895480583768/731664970306816/?type=3 |
||||
| Progress | 8c+ | Lead | worked | Jun 2016 | |
|
Second go.
|
||||
| Evolution | 8c+ | Lead | worked | 3rd Jun 2016 | |
|
Third go.
References[1] https://www.facebook.com/AlexanderMegosSportler/photos/a.428895480583768/731664970306816/?type=3 |
||||
| Capricorn | 8c+ | Lead | flash | Nov 2017 | |
| Underground | 8c+ | Lead | flash | 14th Sep 2020 | |
| Za Staro Kolo In Majhnega Psa | 8c+ | Lead | worked | Mar 2023 | |
| Pain Makes Me Stronger, Every Day | 8c | Lead | worked | 29th May 2009 | |
|
Second go.
|
||||
| Raubritter | 8c | Lead | flash | 10th Aug 2011 | |
| Roof Warrior | 8c | Lead | flash | 1st May 2012 | |
| Bat Route | 8c | Lead | worked | Jun 2014 | |
References |
||||
| True North | 8c | Lead | worked | Jun 2016 | |
|
Second go.
Second go. |
||||
| Mecca - The Mid-life Crisis | 8b+ | Lead | worked | 2014 | |
|
Second go.
|
||||
| Unjustified | 8b+ | Lead | worked | Jun 2014 | |
| Climb | Grade | Style | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Upgrade U | 8C | Boulder | worked | 2021 | |
|
First ascent. Around 10 sessions.
|
||||
| Montecore | 8C | Boulder | worked | 2014 | 8B+ |
|
Fifth ascent.
References[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2014/12/montecore_8c_and_riot_act_8b+_by_megos-69341 |
||||
| Lucid Dreaming | 8C | Boulder | worked | 27th Jan 2015 | |
|
Third ascent. 11 sessions.
References |
||||
| Monkey Wedding | 8C | Boulder | worked | 2017 | |
| The Finnish Line | 8C | Boulder | worked | 22nd Jul 2017 | |
| Louis Cut | 8B+ | Boulder | worked | 10th Jun 2016 | |
|
First ascent.
References |
||||
| Das Pumpenhausen | 8B | Boulder | worked | May 2013 | |
|
First ascent.
References[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/05/alex_megos_climbs_new_8b_at_porth_ysgo_wales-68080 |
||||
| Wrestling With an Alligator | 8B | Boulder | flash | Oct 2023 | |
References |
||||
| Climb | Grade | Style | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| The Path | E9 | Lead | flash | Aug 2016 | |
|
A very impressive effort given Alex had done very little trad climbing. https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2016/08/the_path_514ar_trad_flash_by_alex_megos-70630 https://www.facebook.com/AlexanderMegosSportler/photos/767732296700083 |
||||
| Climb | Grade | Style | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| The Wheel of Life | 9a | Boulder | worked | 6th Jul 2013 |