Alex Megos


Quick Info

Nationality: DE
Date of birth: 12 August 1993
Social Media

Alex Megos (born 1993) grew up in the Frankenjura area Germany and specialises in sport climbing and bouldering. He's famed for very fast ascents of hard testpieces as well as establishing some of the hardest sport routes in the world.

Notable Ascents

Alex was the first person in the world to onsight 9a with his ascent of Estado Crítico in Siurana. Amusingly he didn't actually realise which line it was he had climbed at the time and he only realised afterwards when someone told him!

Sources

[1] Interview with RockClimbingUK

[2] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alexander_Megos

Quick Info

Nationality: DE
Date of birth: 12 August 1993
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8C
Hardest Sport (Worked): 9b+
Hardest Sport (Onsight): 9a
Hardest Sport (Flash): 9a
Hardest Trad (Flash): E9
Social Media

Alex Megos (born 1993) grew up in the Frankenjura area Germany and specialises in sport climbing and bouldering. He's famed for very fast ascents of hard testpieces as well as establishing some of the hardest sport routes in the world.

Notable Ascents

Alex was the first person in the world to onsight 9a with his ascent of Estado Crítico in Siurana. Amusingly he didn't actually realise which line it was he had climbed at the time and he only realised afterwards when someone told him!

Sources

[1] Interview with RockClimbingUK

[2] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alexander_Megos


Podcasts


Pics + Vids

Perfecto Mundo (9b+, FA)
Added at 18:12 on 18 December 2020
Fight Club (9b, FA)
Added at 18:12 on 18 December 2020
Hubble (9a)
Added at 18:12 on 18 December 2020
Bibliographie (9b+, FA)
Added at 18:12 on 18 December 2020
Louis Cut (8B+, FA)
Added at 12:01 on 20 January 2021
Bibliographie (9b+, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 12:02 on 10 February 2021
Das Pumpenhausen (8B, FA)
Added at 23:02 on 15 February 2021
Mejorando Imagen (9b)
Added at 21:05 on 07 May 2021
Chromosone Y (8c+, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 06:10 on 05 October 2021
Meiose (9a+)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 06:10 on 05 October 2021
King Capella (9b)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 22:11 on 21 November 2021
King Capella (9b)
Added at 18:11 on 28 November 2021
La Furia de Jabali (9b)
Added at 22:12 on 07 December 2021
Intermezzo XY Gelöst (9a)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 21:09 on 22 September 2021
La Furia de Jabali (9b)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 22:11 on 29 November 2021
Kulebras Gemelas (9a, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 22:12 on 13 December 2021
La Capella (9b)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 20:12 on 14 December 2021
Bat Route (8c)
Added at 22:12 on 11 December 2021
Unjustified (8b+)
Added at 22:12 on 11 December 2021
Cadafist (9a, FA)
Added at 19:03 on 28 March 2021
Wunderheiler (9a)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 22:11 on 02 November 2021
Wunderheiler (9a)
Added at 22:11 on 02 November 2021
Mejorando Imagen (9b)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 08:04 on 26 April 2021
Intermezzo XY Gelöst (9a)
Added at 17:09 on 28 September 2021
Northern Lights (9a)
Added at 08:11 on 03 November 2021
Hubble (9a)
Added at 08:11 on 03 November 2021
Kaa'bah (8c+)
Added at 08:11 on 03 November 2021
Evolution (8c+)
Added at 08:11 on 03 November 2021
Perfecto Mundo (9b+, FA)
Added at 10:11 on 03 November 2021
Era Vella (9a)
Added at 10:11 on 03 November 2021
First Round, First Minute (9b)
Added at 10:11 on 03 November 2021
The Finnish Line (8C)
Added at 10:11 on 03 November 2021
Dreamcatcher (9a)
Added at 11:11 on 03 November 2021
The Path (E9)
Added at 11:11 on 03 November 2021
Kulebras Gemelas (9a, FA)
Added at 17:12 on 24 December 2021
La Capella (9b)
Added at 16:01 on 07 January 2022

Ascents

49 recorded ascents.

This timeline is missing some ascents where the date of the ascent is unknown. Use the other tabs to view these ascents.
Year Climb Grade FA Ascent Date
2012 Estado Crítico 9a (Lead Onsight) 24 Mar 2012

The first ever onsight of a 9a. Funnily, Alex wasn't aware of the grade of the route when he climbed it and only found out afterwards what he'd done.

2013 La Rambla 8c+ (Lead) 30 Mar 2013 (approx)

Second go!

Das Pumpenhausen 8B (Boulder) 01 May 2013 (approx)

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/05/alex_megos_climbs_new_8b_at_porth_ysgo_wales-68080

https://vimeo.com/70930275

Corona 9a (Lead) 13 May 2013 (approx)

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/05/corona_9a+_by_megos-68050

The Wheel of Life 9a (Boulder) 06 Jul 2013
RED 9a (Lead) 18 Aug 2013
2014 Mecca - The Mid-life Crisis 8b+ (Lead) 01 Jan 2014 (approx)

Second go.

Action Directe 9a (Lead) 03 May 2014

In 2 hours!

https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/alexander-megos-the-action-directe-frankenjura-interview.html

Bat Route 8c (Lead) 01 Jun 2014 (approx)

https://vimeo.com/93236289#=

Unjustified 8b+ (Lead) 01 Jun 2014 (approx)

https://vimeo.com/93236289#=

Biographie 9a+ (Lead) 11 Jul 2014

Third go and in a single day!

https://www.facebook.com/AlexanderMegosSportler/posts/440127572793892

Los Revolucionarios 9a (Lead) 06 Oct 2014 (approx)

Second ascent.

2015 Lucid Dreaming 8C (Boulder) 27 Jan 2015

Third ascent.

Supernova 9b (Lead) 02 Oct 2015

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2015/10/megos_climbs_supernova_9a+b_frankenjuras_hardest-70015

First Round, First Minute 9b (Lead) 31 Dec 2015

Alex's first of the grade.

https://www.facebook.com/AlexanderMegosSportler/photos/1057809127692397

2016 Hubble 9a (Lead) 31 May 2016

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cEHebU6RtG0

https://www.facebook.com/AlexanderMegosSportler/photos/a.428895480583768/730615073745139/?type=3

True North 8c (Lead) 01 Jun 2016 (approx)

Second go.

Progress 8c+ (Lead) 01 Jun 2016 (approx)

Second go.

Evolution 8c+ (Lead) 03 Jun 2016

Third go.

https://www.facebook.com/AlexanderMegosSportler/photos/a.428895480583768/731664970306816/?type=3

Kaa'bah 8c+ (Lead) 03 Jun 2016 (approx)

Fourth go.

https://www.facebook.com/AlexanderMegosSportler/photos/a.428895480583768/731664970306816/?type=3

Northern Lights 9a (Lead) 05 Jun 2016

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2016/06/alex_megos_repeats_northern_lights_9a-70498

https://www.facebook.com/AlexanderMegosSportler/photos/a.428895480583768/732079860265327/?type=3

Louis Cut 8B+ (Boulder) 10 Jun 2016

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5YJh5ZRHg58

The Path E9 (Lead Flash) 01 Aug 2016 (approx)

A very impressive effort given Alex had done very little trad climbing.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2016/08/the_path_514ar_trad_flash_by_alex_megos-70630

https://www.facebook.com/AlexanderMegosSportler/photos/767732296700083

Dreamcatcher 9a (Lead) 01 Aug 2016 (approx)

https://www.facebook.com/AlexanderMegosSportler/photos/773706999435946

Fight Club 9b (Lead) 14 Aug 2016

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N9H8gcpZhss

Super Crackinette 9a+ (Lead) 14 Oct 2016 (approx)

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2016/10/supercrackinette_9a+_first_ascent_by_alex_megos-70740

2017 Monkey Wedding 8C (Boulder) 01 Jan 2017 (approx)
TCT 9a (Lead Onsight) 01 May 2017 (approx)

I felt really bad warming up. Got pumped on a 6c. Felt weak. Didn't want to try the 9a because of that. Did an 8a for second warm up and still didn't feel good.

Then Claudia Ghisolfi (Stefano's sister) talked me into trying it.

Since there were not many options either. I just thought "Ah whatever. Nothing to lose."

Marcello Bombardi was belaying me.

I climbed the first 8c part quite well, but got quite pumped as well.Managed to rest a little bit before the last part. An 8m long 45 degree head wall with big moves on incut crimps. Got the sequence right, and somehow found myself on top. With a few difficulties at the end to clip the anchor because I couldn't find the top jug.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2017/05/tct_second_9a_onsight_by_alex_megos-71104

The Finnish Line 8C (Boulder) 22 Jul 2017

Second ascent.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2017/07/alex_megos_repeats_the_finnish_line_at_the_coop_8c-71201

https://www.facebook.com/AlexanderMegosSportler/photos/1043566919116618

2018 Era Vella 9a (Lead) 17 Apr 2018

Second go.

https://www.facebook.com/AlexanderMegosSportler/photos/1120128374793805

Perfecto Mundo 9b+ (Lead) 09 May 2018

Alex became the third person in the world to climb 9b+ with this ascent (after Adam Ondra and Chris Sharma). 15 days of effort [4].

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SbWvFjUIt5k

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2018/05/perfecto_mundo_9b+_first_ascent_by_alex_megos-71571

[3] https://www.facebook.com/AlexanderMegosSportler/photos/1132511353555507

[4] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/alexander-megos-perfecto-mundo-margalef-9b-plus-interview.html

2019
2020 Bibliographie 9b+ (Lead) 05 Aug 2020

60 days of effort on this king line next to biographie.

Alex initially suggested 9c but after a (relatively) quick repeat from Stefano Ghisolfi (who found some new beta and suggested a downgrade to 9b+) Alex adjusted his suggestion down to 9b+.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CDjw8CqK3KJ

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=COuxNFuAS1Q

Underground 8c+ (Lead Flash) 14 Sep 2020

https://www.instagram.com/tv/CFIbe3YqEfL/

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2020/09/9a_flash_for_alex_megos_in_arco-72486

2021 Cadafist 9a (Lead) 01 Jan 2021 (approx)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kSHUfh3z3tE

Mejorando Imagen 9b (Lead) 25 Apr 2021 (approx)

Alex suggested an upgrade to 9b.

https://www.instagram.com/p/COD4HL9hyHz/

Footage from an earlier attempt https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uYmtaitHdWA

Intermezzo XY Gelöst 9a (Lead Flash) 22 Sep 2021

I had a lot of information about the route. It's not very long, just three quickdraws in its 7 or 8 meters. Very similar to climbing in the Frankenjura. Two people were climbing there, and Roland explained all the move, went up and cleaned the holds, and then belayed me. I knew exactly what to do, and it worked out pretty well I’d say. [1]

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/alex-megos-9a-flash-on-intermezzo-xy-gelost-at-plombergstein-austria.html

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/CUIeGmUM3Ex/

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bjqJ-FNEUAs

Meiose 9a+ (Lead) 03 Oct 2021 (approx)

Alex suggested 9a.

Today I had a look at the harder version called "Meiose" and I have to say, the way @pirminbertle climbed it, it is 9a+. That's not the way it makes sense to me though as it eliminates some holds that are totally in reach and in the line too. I did climb route (in my eyes) and clipped the same line of quickdraws, but I used very different beta and also different holds for some parts. I just did it the way it seemed logical to me. The way I did it was around 9a, but it has nothing to do with the original beta Pirmin used. [1]

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CUinA5bM6hV/

Chromosone Y 8c+ (Lead Flash) 03 Oct 2021 (approx)

Alex suggested 8c+.

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CUinA5bM6hV/

Wunderheiler 9a (Lead) 01 Nov 2021

Second ascent? Alex suggested 9a/+.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CVujk0EsU-J/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CXgT7SUyBlo

King Capella 9b (Lead) 21 Nov 2021

Second ascent. Alex used slightly different beta to Will (taking a wide pinch). 9 days.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CWi9rQKspaj/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5CUvvxcr1EU

La Furia de Jabali 9b (Lead) 29 Nov 2021

Second ascent. 7 days of effort.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CW4F7nvstKb/

https://youtu.be/P7WG0lUopY4

Kulebras Gemelas 9a (Lead) 13 Dec 2021

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JNi1hHNK8nY

https://www.instagram.com/p/CXb1m2zLJJo/

La Capella 9b (Lead) 14 Dec 2021

Interestingly Alex struggled with La Capella, saying he found it harder than both King Capella and La Furia de Jabali.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CXeXIXHrmpx/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GsTeCJ2XAb0

Climb Grade FA Ascent Date
Perfecto Mundo 9b+ (Lead) 09 May 2018

Alex became the third person in the world to climb 9b+ with this ascent (after Adam Ondra and Chris Sharma). 15 days of effort [4].

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SbWvFjUIt5k

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2018/05/perfecto_mundo_9b+_first_ascent_by_alex_megos-71571

[3] https://www.facebook.com/AlexanderMegosSportler/photos/1132511353555507

[4] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/alexander-megos-perfecto-mundo-margalef-9b-plus-interview.html

Bibliographie 9b+ (Lead) 05 Aug 2020

60 days of effort on this king line next to biographie.

Alex initially suggested 9c but after a (relatively) quick repeat from Stefano Ghisolfi (who found some new beta and suggested a downgrade to 9b+) Alex adjusted his suggestion down to 9b+.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CDjw8CqK3KJ

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=COuxNFuAS1Q

Supernova 9b (Lead) 02 Oct 2015

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2015/10/megos_climbs_supernova_9a+b_frankenjuras_hardest-70015

Fight Club 9b (Lead) 14 Aug 2016

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N9H8gcpZhss

First Round, First Minute 9b (Lead) 31 Dec 2015

Alex's first of the grade.

https://www.facebook.com/AlexanderMegosSportler/photos/1057809127692397

Mejorando Imagen 9b (Lead) 25 Apr 2021 (approx)

Alex suggested an upgrade to 9b.

https://www.instagram.com/p/COD4HL9hyHz/

Footage from an earlier attempt https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uYmtaitHdWA

King Capella 9b (Lead) 21 Nov 2021

Second ascent. Alex used slightly different beta to Will (taking a wide pinch). 9 days.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CWi9rQKspaj/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5CUvvxcr1EU

La Furia de Jabali 9b (Lead) 29 Nov 2021

Second ascent. 7 days of effort.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CW4F7nvstKb/

https://youtu.be/P7WG0lUopY4

La Capella 9b (Lead) 14 Dec 2021

Interestingly Alex struggled with La Capella, saying he found it harder than both King Capella and La Furia de Jabali.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CXeXIXHrmpx/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GsTeCJ2XAb0

Super Crackinette 9a+ (Lead) 14 Oct 2016 (approx)

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2016/10/supercrackinette_9a+_first_ascent_by_alex_megos-70740

Biographie 9a+ (Lead) 11 Jul 2014

Third go and in a single day!

https://www.facebook.com/AlexanderMegosSportler/posts/440127572793892

Meiose 9a+ (Lead) 03 Oct 2021 (approx)

Alex suggested 9a.

Today I had a look at the harder version called "Meiose" and I have to say, the way @pirminbertle climbed it, it is 9a+. That's not the way it makes sense to me though as it eliminates some holds that are totally in reach and in the line too. I did climb route (in my eyes) and clipped the same line of quickdraws, but I used very different beta and also different holds for some parts. I just did it the way it seemed logical to me. The way I did it was around 9a, but it has nothing to do with the original beta Pirmin used. [1]

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CUinA5bM6hV/

Mutation 9a+ (Lead Did not finish)
RED 9a (Lead) 18 Aug 2013
Cadafist 9a (Lead) 01 Jan 2021 (approx)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kSHUfh3z3tE

Kulebras Gemelas 9a (Lead) 13 Dec 2021

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JNi1hHNK8nY

https://www.instagram.com/p/CXb1m2zLJJo/

Wild Público 9a (Lead)
Classified 9a (Lead)
La Ley Indignata 9a (Lead)
Estado Crítico 9a (Lead Onsight) 24 Mar 2012

The first ever onsight of a 9a. Funnily, Alex wasn't aware of the grade of the route when he climbed it and only found out afterwards what he'd done.

Corona 9a (Lead) 13 May 2013 (approx)

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/05/corona_9a+_by_megos-68050

Action Directe 9a (Lead) 03 May 2014

In 2 hours!

https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/alexander-megos-the-action-directe-frankenjura-interview.html

Los Revolucionarios 9a (Lead) 06 Oct 2014 (approx)

Second ascent.

Hubble 9a (Lead) 31 May 2016

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cEHebU6RtG0

https://www.facebook.com/AlexanderMegosSportler/photos/a.428895480583768/730615073745139/?type=3

Northern Lights 9a (Lead) 05 Jun 2016

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2016/06/alex_megos_repeats_northern_lights_9a-70498

https://www.facebook.com/AlexanderMegosSportler/photos/a.428895480583768/732079860265327/?type=3

Dreamcatcher 9a (Lead) 01 Aug 2016 (approx)

https://www.facebook.com/AlexanderMegosSportler/photos/773706999435946

TCT 9a (Lead Onsight) 01 May 2017 (approx)

I felt really bad warming up. Got pumped on a 6c. Felt weak. Didn't want to try the 9a because of that. Did an 8a for second warm up and still didn't feel good.

Then Claudia Ghisolfi (Stefano's sister) talked me into trying it.

Since there were not many options either. I just thought "Ah whatever. Nothing to lose."

Marcello Bombardi was belaying me.

I climbed the first 8c part quite well, but got quite pumped as well.Managed to rest a little bit before the last part. An 8m long 45 degree head wall with big moves on incut crimps. Got the sequence right, and somehow found myself on top. With a few difficulties at the end to clip the anchor because I couldn't find the top jug.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2017/05/tct_second_9a_onsight_by_alex_megos-71104

Era Vella 9a (Lead) 17 Apr 2018

Second go.

https://www.facebook.com/AlexanderMegosSportler/photos/1120128374793805

Intermezzo XY Gelöst 9a (Lead Flash) 22 Sep 2021

I had a lot of information about the route. It's not very long, just three quickdraws in its 7 or 8 meters. Very similar to climbing in the Frankenjura. Two people were climbing there, and Roland explained all the move, went up and cleaned the holds, and then belayed me. I knew exactly what to do, and it worked out pretty well I’d say. [1]

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/alex-megos-9a-flash-on-intermezzo-xy-gelost-at-plombergstein-austria.html

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/CUIeGmUM3Ex/

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bjqJ-FNEUAs

Wunderheiler 9a (Lead) 01 Nov 2021

Second ascent? Alex suggested 9a/+.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CVujk0EsU-J/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CXgT7SUyBlo

El Potro 9a (Lead)
Chromosone Y 8c+ (Lead Flash) 03 Oct 2021 (approx)

Alex suggested 8c+.

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CUinA5bM6hV/

La Rambla 8c+ (Lead) 30 Mar 2013 (approx)

Second go!

Progress 8c+ (Lead) 01 Jun 2016 (approx)

Second go.

Kaa'bah 8c+ (Lead) 03 Jun 2016 (approx)

Fourth go.

https://www.facebook.com/AlexanderMegosSportler/photos/a.428895480583768/731664970306816/?type=3

Evolution 8c+ (Lead) 03 Jun 2016

Third go.

https://www.facebook.com/AlexanderMegosSportler/photos/a.428895480583768/731664970306816/?type=3

Underground 8c+ (Lead Flash) 14 Sep 2020

https://www.instagram.com/tv/CFIbe3YqEfL/

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2020/09/9a_flash_for_alex_megos_in_arco-72486

Pure Imagination 8c+ (Lead Flash)
Bat Route 8c (Lead) 01 Jun 2014 (approx)

https://vimeo.com/93236289#=

True North 8c (Lead) 01 Jun 2016 (approx)

Second go.

Mecca - The Mid-life Crisis 8b+ (Lead) 01 Jan 2014 (approx)

Second go.

Unjustified 8b+ (Lead) 01 Jun 2014 (approx)

https://vimeo.com/93236289#=

Climb Grade FA Ascent Date
The Path E9 (Lead Flash) 01 Aug 2016 (approx)

A very impressive effort given Alex had done very little trad climbing.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2016/08/the_path_514ar_trad_flash_by_alex_megos-70630

https://www.facebook.com/AlexanderMegosSportler/photos/767732296700083

Climb Grade FA Ascent Date
The Wheel of Life 9a (Boulder) 06 Jul 2013