Alex Megos


Quick Info

Nationality: DE
Date of birth: 12th August 1993
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8C
Hardest Boulder (Flash): 8B
Hardest Sport (Worked): 9b+
Hardest Sport (Onsight): 9a
Hardest Sport (Flash): 9a
Hardest Trad (Flash): E9
Social Media

Alex Megos grew up in the Frankenjura area Germany and specialises in sport climbing and bouldering. He's famed for very fast ascents of hard testpieces as well as establishing some of the hardest sport routes in the world.

Alex was the first person in the world to onsight 9a with his ascent of Estado Crítico in Siurana.

Sources

[1] Interview with RockClimbingUK

[2] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alexander_Megos

Contributors: remus

Quick Info

Nationality: DE
Date of birth: 12th August 1993
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8C
Hardest Boulder (Flash): 8B
Hardest Sport (Worked): 9b+
Hardest Sport (Onsight): 9a
Hardest Sport (Flash): 9a
Hardest Trad (Flash): E9
Social Media

Alex Megos grew up in the Frankenjura area Germany and specialises in sport climbing and bouldering. He's famed for very fast ascents of hard testpieces as well as establishing some of the hardest sport routes in the world.

Alex was the first person in the world to onsight 9a with his ascent of Estado Crítico in Siurana.

Sources

[1] Interview with RockClimbingUK

[2] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alexander_Megos

Contributors: remus

Lists


Podcasts


Pics + Vids

Wrestling With an Alligator (8B)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 20:10 on 30 October 2023
Action Directe (9a)
Added at 10:12 on 16 December 2023
Sleeping Lion (9b)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 16:01 on 05 January 2024
Wonka Vision (9c)
Added at 16:01 on 05 January 2024
Sleeping Lion (9b)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 19:01 on 06 January 2024
Sleeping Lion (9b)
Added at 20:01 on 07 January 2024
Sleeping Lion (9b)
Added at 17:01 on 15 January 2024
Sleeping Lion (9b)
Added at 20:01 on 24 January 2024
Upgrade U (8C, FA)
Added at 07:01 on 30 January 2024
Montecore (8C)
Added at 07:01 on 30 January 2024
Meiose (9a+)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 06:10 on 05 October 2021
The Maze (9a, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 21:10 on 16 October 2023
Perfecto Mundo (9b+, FA)
Added at 18:12 on 18 December 2020
Fight Club (9b, FA)
Added at 18:12 on 18 December 2020
Hubble (9a)
Added at 18:12 on 18 December 2020
Bibliographie (9b+, FA)
Added at 18:12 on 18 December 2020
Louis Cut (8B+, FA)
Added at 12:01 on 20 January 2021
Bibliographie (9b+, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 12:02 on 10 February 2021
Das Pumpenhausen (8B, FA)
Added at 23:02 on 15 February 2021
Chan Chan Bastards (9a+, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 22:11 on 22 November 2022
Mejorando Imagen (9b)
Added at 21:05 on 07 May 2021
Za Staro Kolo In Majhnega Psa (8c+)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 10:03 on 26 March 2023
Chromosone Y (8c+, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 06:10 on 05 October 2021
Meiose (9a+)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 06:10 on 05 October 2021
King Capella (9b)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 22:11 on 21 November 2021
King Capella (9b)
Added at 18:11 on 28 November 2021
La Furia de Jabali (9a+)
Added at 22:12 on 07 December 2021
Intermezzo XY Gelöst (9a)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 21:09 on 22 September 2021
La Furia de Jabali (9a+)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 22:11 on 29 November 2021
Kulebras Gemelas (9a, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 22:12 on 13 December 2021
La Capella (9b)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 20:12 on 14 December 2021
Za Staro Kolo In Majhnega Psa (8c+)
Added at 06:04 on 03 April 2023
The Full Journey (9b, FA)
Added at 16:11 on 30 November 2022
Bat Route (8c)
Added at 22:12 on 11 December 2021
Unjustified (8b+)
Added at 22:12 on 11 December 2021
Cadafist (9a, FA)
Added at 19:03 on 28 March 2021
Wunderheiler (9a)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 22:11 on 02 November 2021
Wunderheiler (9a)
Added at 22:11 on 02 November 2021
Mejorando Imagen (9b)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 08:04 on 26 April 2021
Intermezzo XY Gelöst (9a)
Added at 17:09 on 28 September 2021
Northern Lights (9a)
Added at 08:11 on 03 November 2021
Hubble (9a)
Added at 08:11 on 03 November 2021
Kaa'bah (8c+)
Added at 08:11 on 03 November 2021
Evolution (8c+)
Added at 08:11 on 03 November 2021
Perfecto Mundo (9b+, FA)
Added at 10:11 on 03 November 2021
Era Vella (9a)
Added at 10:11 on 03 November 2021
First Round, First Minute (9b)
Added at 10:11 on 03 November 2021
The Finnish Line (8C)
Added at 10:11 on 03 November 2021
Dreamcatcher (9a)
Added at 11:11 on 03 November 2021
The Path (E9)
Added at 11:11 on 03 November 2021
Kulebras Gemelas (9a, FA)
Added at 17:12 on 24 December 2021
La Capella (9b)
Added at 16:01 on 07 January 2022
La Castagne (9a+)
Added at 19:12 on 05 December 2022
Lucid Dreaming (8C)
Added at 11:03 on 21 March 2023
Lucid Dreaming (8C)
Added at 11:03 on 21 March 2023
Jungle Boogie (9a+)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 16:06 on 10 June 2022
Ratstaman Vibrations (9b, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 19:07 on 31 July 2022
The Full Journey (9b, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 05:10 on 12 October 2022
Red Ram (9a+)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 05:10 on 20 October 2022
Ratstaman Vibrations (9b, FA)
Added at 15:10 on 27 October 2022
Pink Patatas (9a+, FA)
View this post on Instagram

Added at 20:11 on 06 November 2022
Estado Crítico (9a)
Added at 15:03 on 24 March 2023

Ascents

71 recorded ascents.

This timeline is missing some ascents where the date of the ascent is unknown. Use the other tabs to view these ascents.
Year Climb Grade Style Ascent Date
2009 Pain Makes Me Stronger, Every Day 8c Lead | worked 29th May 2009
Second go.
2010
2011 Raubritter 8c Lead | flash 10th Aug 2011
2012 Estado Crítico 9a Lead | onsight 24th Mar 2012

The first ever onsight of a 9a. Doubly impressive as up until that point the hardest route Alex had climbed was 9a.

Alex had originally planned to try La Rambla Extension but couldn't find the route from the topo and so got on Estado instead. When he reached the point where the route splits with Kalea Borroka he nearly went up Kalea instead as he felt very pumped, fortunately he persevered!

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ryd5hG9EC2A

Roof Warrior 8c Lead | flash 1st May 2012
Pure Imagination 8c+ Lead | flash Nov 2012
2013 La Rambla Extension 9a+ Lead | worked Mar 2013
Second go.
Classified 9a Lead | worked 26th Apr 2013
First ascent. Third go.

Alex's first new route in the Frankenjura.

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/alexander-megos-frees-frankenjura-classified-9a-.html

Das Pumpenhausen 8B Boulder | worked May 2013
Corona 9a+ Lead | worked May 2013
The Wheel of Life 9a Boulder | worked 6th Jul 2013
RED 9a Lead | worked 18th Aug 2013
First ascent.
2014 Montecore 8C Boulder | worked 2014
Mecca - The Mid-life Crisis 8b+ Lead | worked 2014
Second go.
Action Directe 9a Lead | worked 3rd May 2014
Bat Route 8c Lead | worked Jun 2014
Unjustified 8b+ Lead | worked Jun 2014
Biographie 9a+ Lead | worked 11th Jul 2014
Los Revolucionarios 9a Lead | worked Oct 2014
Second ascent.
2015 Lucid Dreaming 8C Boulder | worked 27th Jan 2015
Third ascent. 11 sessions.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EdMsY5st2J8

Supernova 9a+ Lead | worked 2nd Oct 2015
First Round, First Minute 9b Lead | worked 31st Dec 2015
2016 Hubble 9a Lead | worked 31st May 2016
Kaa'bah 8c+ Lead | worked Jun 2016
Progress 8c+ Lead | worked Jun 2016
Second go.
True North 8c Lead | worked Jun 2016
Second go.

Second go.

Evolution 8c+ Lead | worked 3rd Jun 2016
Northern Lights 9a Lead | worked 5th Jun 2016
Louis Cut 8B+ Boulder | worked 10th Jun 2016
First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5YJh5ZRHg58

The Path E9 Lead | flash Aug 2016
Dreamcatcher 9a Lead | worked Aug 2016
Fight Club 9b Lead | worked 14th Aug 2016
Super Crackinette 9a+ Lead | worked Oct 2016
2017 Monkey Wedding 8C Boulder | worked 2017
TCT 9a Lead | onsight May 2017

I felt really bad warming up. Got pumped on a 6c. Felt weak. Didn't want to try the 9a because of that. Did an 8a for second warm up and still didn't feel good.

Then Claudia Ghisolfi (Stefano's sister) talked me into trying it.

Since there were not many options either. I just thought "Ah whatever. Nothing to lose."

Marcello Bombardi was belaying me.

I climbed the first 8c part quite well, but got quite pumped as well.Managed to rest a little bit before the last part. An 8m long 45 degree head wall with big moves on incut crimps. Got the sequence right, and somehow found myself on top. With a few difficulties at the end to clip the anchor because I couldn't find the top jug.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2017/05/tct_second_9a_onsight_by_alex_megos-71104

Clash of the Titans 9a+ Lead | worked 17th Jun 2017
First ascent.
Jungle Boogie 9a+ Lead | worked 21st Jun 2017
The Finnish Line 8C Boulder | worked 22nd Jul 2017
Capricorn 8c+ Lead | flash Nov 2017
2018 Era Vella 9a Lead | worked 17th Apr 2018
Perfecto Mundo 9b+ Lead | worked 9th May 2018
2019 Zoolander 9a Lead | worked 2019
First ascent.
2020 Wonka Vision 9c (approx) Lead | did not finish After 1st Jan 2020
Bibliographie 9b+ Lead | worked 5th Aug 2020
First ascent. 60 sessions.

Alex initially suggested 9c but after a (relatively) quick repeat from Stefano Ghisolfi (who found some new beta and suggested a downgrade to 9b+) Alex adjusted his suggestion down to 9b+.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CDjw8CqK3KJ

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=COuxNFuAS1Q

Underground 8c+ Lead | flash 14th Sep 2020
2021 Upgrade U 8C Boulder | worked 2021
First ascent. Around 10 sessions.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZBS6dzEq9hk

Cadafist 9a Lead | worked 2021
La Castagne 9a+ Lead | worked Mar 2021
Second ascent.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kvQvqiQwbvY

Mejorando Imagen 9b Lead | worked Apr 2021
Intermezzo XY Gelöst 9a Lead | flash 22nd Sep 2021

I had a lot of information about the route. It's not very long, just three quickdraws in its 7 or 8 meters. Very similar to climbing in the Frankenjura. Two people were climbing there, and Roland explained all the move, went up and cleaned the holds, and then belayed me. I knew exactly what to do, and it worked out pretty well I’d say. [1]

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/alex-megos-9a-flash-on-intermezzo-xy-gelost-at-plombergstein-austria.html

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/CUIeGmUM3Ex/

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bjqJ-FNEUAs

Meiose 9a+ Lead | worked Oct 2021

Today I had a look at the harder version called "Meiose" and I have to say, the way @pirminbertle climbed it, it is 9a+. That's not the way it makes sense to me though as it eliminates some holds that are totally in reach and in the line too. I did climb route (in my eyes) and clipped the same line of quickdraws, but I used very different beta and also different holds for some parts. I just did it the way it seemed logical to me. The way I did it was around 9a, but it has nothing to do with the original beta Pirmin used. [1]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CUinA5bM6hV/

Chromosone Y 8c+ Lead | flash Oct 2021
Wunderheiler 9a Lead | worked 1st Nov 2021
King Capella 9b Lead | worked 21st Nov 2021
Second ascent. 9 sessions.

Alex used slightly different beta to Will (taking a wide pinch).

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CWi9rQKspaj/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5CUvvxcr1EU

La Furia de Jabali 9a+ Lead | worked 29th Nov 2021
Second ascent. 7 sessions.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CW4F7nvstKb/

[2] https://youtu.be/P7WG0lUopY4

Kulebras Gemelas 9a Lead | worked 13th Dec 2021
La Capella 9b Lead | worked 14th Dec 2021

Interestingly Alex struggled with La Capella, saying he found it harder than both King Capella and La Furia de Jabali.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CXeXIXHrmpx/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GsTeCJ2XAb0

2022 Patatas Pantera 9a Lead | worked 2022
First ascent.
Ratstaman Vibrations 9b Lead | worked Jul 2022
Chan Chan Bastards 9a+ Lead | worked Oct 2022
Pink Patatas 9a+ Lead | worked Oct 2022
Red Ram 9a+ Lead | worked Oct 2022
Second ascent. Third go.

https://www.instagram.com/p/Cj1A34ir_wA/

The Journey 9a+ Lead | worked Oct 2022
The Full Journey 9b Lead | worked 5th Oct 2022
2023 Za Staro Kolo In Majhnega Psa 8c+ Lead | worked Mar 2023
Wrestling With an Alligator 8B Boulder | flash Oct 2023
The Maze 9a Lead | worked 16th Oct 2023
2024 Sleeping Lion 9b Lead | worked 4th Jan 2024
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Wonka Vision 9c (approx) Lead | did not finish After 1st Jan 2020
Perfecto Mundo 9b+ Lead | worked 9th May 2018
Bibliographie 9b+ Lead | worked 5th Aug 2020 9b+
First ascent. 60 sessions.

Alex initially suggested 9c but after a (relatively) quick repeat from Stefano Ghisolfi (who found some new beta and suggested a downgrade to 9b+) Alex adjusted his suggestion down to 9b+.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CDjw8CqK3KJ

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=COuxNFuAS1Q

Fight Club 9b Lead | worked 14th Aug 2016
Ratstaman Vibrations 9b Lead | worked Jul 2022
The Full Journey 9b Lead | worked 5th Oct 2022
First Round, First Minute 9b Lead | worked 31st Dec 2015
Mejorando Imagen 9b Lead | worked Apr 2021 9b
King Capella 9b Lead | worked 21st Nov 2021
Second ascent. 9 sessions.

Alex used slightly different beta to Will (taking a wide pinch).

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CWi9rQKspaj/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5CUvvxcr1EU

La Capella 9b Lead | worked 14th Dec 2021

Interestingly Alex struggled with La Capella, saying he found it harder than both King Capella and La Furia de Jabali.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CXeXIXHrmpx/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GsTeCJ2XAb0

Sleeping Lion 9b Lead | worked 4th Jan 2024 9b
Supernova 9a+ Lead | worked 2nd Oct 2015
Super Crackinette 9a+ Lead | worked Oct 2016
Clash of the Titans 9a+ Lead | worked 17th Jun 2017 9a+
First ascent.
Chan Chan Bastards 9a+ Lead | worked Oct 2022 9a+/9b
Pink Patatas 9a+ Lead | worked Oct 2022
La Rambla Extension 9a+ Lead | worked Mar 2013
Second go.
Corona 9a+ Lead | worked May 2013
Biographie 9a+ Lead | worked 11th Jul 2014
Jungle Boogie 9a+ Lead | worked 21st Jun 2017
La Castagne 9a+ Lead | worked Mar 2021 9a/9a+
Second ascent.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kvQvqiQwbvY

Meiose 9a+ Lead | worked Oct 2021 9a

Today I had a look at the harder version called "Meiose" and I have to say, the way @pirminbertle climbed it, it is 9a+. That's not the way it makes sense to me though as it eliminates some holds that are totally in reach and in the line too. I did climb route (in my eyes) and clipped the same line of quickdraws, but I used very different beta and also different holds for some parts. I just did it the way it seemed logical to me. The way I did it was around 9a, but it has nothing to do with the original beta Pirmin used. [1]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CUinA5bM6hV/

La Furia de Jabali 9a+ Lead | worked 29th Nov 2021
Second ascent. 7 sessions.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CW4F7nvstKb/

[2] https://youtu.be/P7WG0lUopY4

Red Ram 9a+ Lead | worked Oct 2022
Second ascent. Third go.

https://www.instagram.com/p/Cj1A34ir_wA/

The Journey 9a+ Lead | worked Oct 2022
Mutation 9a+ Lead | did not finish
Classified 9a Lead | worked 26th Apr 2013
First ascent. Third go.

Alex's first new route in the Frankenjura.

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/alexander-megos-frees-frankenjura-classified-9a-.html

RED 9a Lead | worked 18th Aug 2013
First ascent.
Zoolander 9a Lead | worked 2019
First ascent.
Cadafist 9a Lead | worked 2021
Kulebras Gemelas 9a Lead | worked 13th Dec 2021
Patatas Pantera 9a Lead | worked 2022
First ascent.
The Maze 9a Lead | worked 16th Oct 2023
Wild Público 9a Lead | worked
First ascent.
La Ley Indignata 9a Lead | worked
First ascent.
Estado Crítico 9a Lead | onsight 24th Mar 2012

The first ever onsight of a 9a. Doubly impressive as up until that point the hardest route Alex had climbed was 9a.

Alex had originally planned to try La Rambla Extension but couldn't find the route from the topo and so got on Estado instead. When he reached the point where the route splits with Kalea Borroka he nearly went up Kalea instead as he felt very pumped, fortunately he persevered!

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ryd5hG9EC2A

Action Directe 9a Lead | worked 3rd May 2014
Los Revolucionarios 9a Lead | worked Oct 2014
Second ascent.
Hubble 9a Lead | worked 31st May 2016 8c+
Northern Lights 9a Lead | worked 5th Jun 2016
Dreamcatcher 9a Lead | worked Aug 2016
TCT 9a Lead | onsight May 2017

I felt really bad warming up. Got pumped on a 6c. Felt weak. Didn't want to try the 9a because of that. Did an 8a for second warm up and still didn't feel good.

Then Claudia Ghisolfi (Stefano's sister) talked me into trying it.

Since there were not many options either. I just thought "Ah whatever. Nothing to lose."

Marcello Bombardi was belaying me.

I climbed the first 8c part quite well, but got quite pumped as well.Managed to rest a little bit before the last part. An 8m long 45 degree head wall with big moves on incut crimps. Got the sequence right, and somehow found myself on top. With a few difficulties at the end to clip the anchor because I couldn't find the top jug.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2017/05/tct_second_9a_onsight_by_alex_megos-71104

Era Vella 9a Lead | worked 17th Apr 2018
Intermezzo XY Gelöst 9a Lead | flash 22nd Sep 2021

I had a lot of information about the route. It's not very long, just three quickdraws in its 7 or 8 meters. Very similar to climbing in the Frankenjura. Two people were climbing there, and Roland explained all the move, went up and cleaned the holds, and then belayed me. I knew exactly what to do, and it worked out pretty well I’d say. [1]

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/alex-megos-9a-flash-on-intermezzo-xy-gelost-at-plombergstein-austria.html

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/CUIeGmUM3Ex/

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bjqJ-FNEUAs

Wunderheiler 9a Lead | worked 1st Nov 2021 9a/9a+
El Potro 9a Lead | worked
Chromosone Y 8c+ Lead | flash Oct 2021 8c+
Pure Imagination 8c+ Lead | flash Nov 2012
Kaa'bah 8c+ Lead | worked Jun 2016
Progress 8c+ Lead | worked Jun 2016
Second go.
Evolution 8c+ Lead | worked 3rd Jun 2016
Capricorn 8c+ Lead | flash Nov 2017
Underground 8c+ Lead | flash 14th Sep 2020
Za Staro Kolo In Majhnega Psa 8c+ Lead | worked Mar 2023
Pain Makes Me Stronger, Every Day 8c Lead | worked 29th May 2009
Second go.
Raubritter 8c Lead | flash 10th Aug 2011
Roof Warrior 8c Lead | flash 1st May 2012
Bat Route 8c Lead | worked Jun 2014
True North 8c Lead | worked Jun 2016
Second go.

Second go.

Mecca - The Mid-life Crisis 8b+ Lead | worked 2014
Second go.
Unjustified 8b+ Lead | worked Jun 2014
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Upgrade U 8C Boulder | worked 2021
First ascent. Around 10 sessions.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZBS6dzEq9hk

Montecore 8C Boulder | worked 2014 8B+
Lucid Dreaming 8C Boulder | worked 27th Jan 2015
Third ascent. 11 sessions.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EdMsY5st2J8

Monkey Wedding 8C Boulder | worked 2017
The Finnish Line 8C Boulder | worked 22nd Jul 2017
Louis Cut 8B+ Boulder | worked 10th Jun 2016
First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5YJh5ZRHg58

Das Pumpenhausen 8B Boulder | worked May 2013
Wrestling With an Alligator 8B Boulder | flash Oct 2023
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
The Path E9 Lead | flash Aug 2016
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
The Wheel of Life 9a Boulder | worked 6th Jul 2013