Action Directe | 9a Sport route at Waldkopf

UKClimbing.com | 8a.nu

Bolted by Milan Sykora.

Action Directe is a sport route in the Waldkopf area of the Frankenjura in Germany. It was first climbed by Wolfgang Güllich in 1991 who suggested a grade UIAA grade of XI which equates to roughly 8c+/9a. It has since settled at 9a making it one of the first of the grade in the world.

The route is named after the french terror group.

References

[1] Written in Stone, Nov 2023 https://open.spotify.com/episode/3XjUWgzU7IMJgEWPzequbq?

[2] Written in Stone interview with Ben Cossey, Nov 2023 https://open.spotify.com/episode/0jLxfy5CRlOTykTmtG7MZe?

[3] Written in Stone interview with Alex Megos, Nov 2023 https://open.spotify.com/episode/5nhDlvoMlXj4jvCROnwSh6?

Contributors: remus

Pics + Vids

Wolfgang Güllich
Added at 20:10 on 16 October 2022
Alex Adler
Added at 08:11 on 15 November 2022
Alex Adler
Added at 07:02 on 09 February 2021
Iker Pou
Added at 09:02 on 09 February 2021
Iker Pou
Added at 08:07 on 29 July 2021
Dave Graham
Added at 13:11 on 03 November 2022
Richard Simpson
View this post on Instagram

Added at 05:07 on 14 July 2022
Dai Koyamada
Added at 09:07 on 03 July 2021
Dai Koyamada
Added at 11:12 on 16 December 2023
Jan Hojer
Added at 07:02 on 23 February 2024
Adam Pustelnik
Added at 11:12 on 16 December 2023
Ben Cossey
Added at 18:11 on 27 November 2023
Rustam Gelmanov
Added at 11:12 on 16 December 2023
Alex Megos
Added at 10:12 on 16 December 2023
Mélissa Le Nevé
View this post on Instagram

Added at 12:02 on 10 February 2021
Mélissa Le Nevé
View this post on Instagram

Added at 08:07 on 29 July 2021
Buster Martin
Added at 07:11 on 04 November 2022
Buster Martin
View this post on Instagram

Added at 16:10 on 10 October 2022
Moritz Welt
View this post on Instagram

Added at 16:10 on 14 October 2023
Stefano Ghisolfi
Added at 08:02 on 26 February 2024

Ascents

27 recorded ascents, including 2 unsuccessful ascents.

Climber Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Wolfgang Güllich Lead | worked 14th Sep 1991
First ascent. 11 sessions.

With this ascent Wolfgang became one of the first people in the world to climb a sport route graded 9a, though at the time he suggested a grade of UIAA XI which translates to 8c+/9a. Famously, he trained specifically for the route by doing single finger campusing.

Ben Moon Lead | did not finish Apr 1992

Ben spent 3 days working the line and 2 days on redpoints. He reached a high point moving left towards the top of the route. He then got injured and was unable to try the line any more. [1]

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/ben-moon-british-rock-climbing-legend-interview.html

Alex Adler Lead | worked 9th Sep 1995
Iker Pou Lead | worked 7th Jun 2000
Dave Graham Lead | worked 21st May 2001
Christian Bindhammer Lead | worked 14th May 2003
Richard Simpson Lead | worked 13th Oct 2005

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/B_5YoPZj3Jm/

[2] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/rich-simpson-makes-6th-ascent-of-action-directe.html

[3] https://www.thebmc.co.uk/action-man

Questions arose around whether Rich actually climbed the line and when asked he was unable to produce a belayer or any witnesses.

Dai Koyamada Lead | worked 15th Oct 2005
Markus Bock Lead | worked Between 15th Oct 2005 and 23rd Oct 2005
Kilian Fischhuber Lead | worked 26th Sep 2006
Patxi Usobiaga Lead | worked 24th Oct 2008
Gabriele Moroni Lead | worked 17th Apr 2010
Jan Hojer Lead | worked 22nd May 2010
Piotr Savack Lead | worked 23rd May 2010
9 sessions.
Adam Pustelnik Lead | worked 10th Oct 2010
Felix Knaub Lead | worked Oct 2011
Ben Cossey Lead | did not finish 2012
Rustam Gelmanov Lead | worked 26th Mar 2012
Alex Megos Lead | worked 3rd May 2014
Stefano Carnati Lead | worked 14th Jun 2016
David Firnenburg Lead | worked 29th Oct 2016
Stephan Vogt Lead | worked 4th Apr 2017
Mélissa Le Nevé Lead | worked 21st May 2020
Buster Martin Lead | worked 4th Oct 2022
Dylan Chuat Lead | worked 21st Apr 2023
Moritz Welt Lead | worked 13th Oct 2023
Stefano Ghisolfi Lead | worked Nov 2023