True North | 8c Sport route at Kilnsey

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First ascent.

1 session. Third go.

Ian's first 8c!

When I first dogged up it putting the clips in, I did every move bar the last slap but my feet were all wrong. On my second go I managed all the moves and some good links, so I went for the redpoint and found myself at the top. [1]

On his preparation for the route:

On my last climbing day before red pointing True North I had a really hard session, I started by going to Longridge and doing the 300' 8b+ traverse [Traverse of the Gods] three times. It's absolutely superb for the basic stamina needed to complete hard routes in a quick time as there are no moves harder than 6b but it is extremely long. After a brew we drove to Kilnsey and did a 7b+, two 7cs, two 7c+s, an 8a and finished off doing a few laps of Urgent Action. [1]

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 71, Page 8 and 20

2 sessions.

Should have got this first go in an hour really, Got to within 2 moves on the flash. SO close. Easy RP in the end after a rest day. Good route for sure! Classic Kilnsey.

References

[1] Email correspondence

References

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=7758.0

References

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10607.msg210060.html#msg210060

First of the grade.

Date a guess but pre 2014

Second go.

First redpoint!

Ted Kingsnorth:

Pete Dawson did True North 1st redpoint this afternoon in about 2 hours. It was one of the most impressive redpoints I have seen. Pete had never been on the bottom pitch before, Full Tilt 8b. We gave him beta for all of True North and he went up it bolt to bolt in about 20 - 30 mins working out the moves. Then after 2 people had had their own redpoints, Pete did it from bottom to top!! Our jaws were pretty much on the floor when he lowered back down!

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=epaW9492-N0

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2023/06/true_north_8c_for_anna_wild-73367

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/DMntmOLCCRC/