Hubble | 9a Sport route at Raven Tor

UKClimbing.com | 8a.nu

Hubble is a route at Raven Tor in the UK's Peak District. Ben Moon made the first ascent of the full line in 1990 suggesting a grade of 8c+, making it the hardest route in the world at the time. It is now considered closer to 9a, making it both the first 8c+ and the first 9a!

The route is unusually bouldery and powerful with the meat of the difficulty being a short section on undercuts at the start of the route that is around 8B/+ as a boulder problem. The top of the route is roughly a 7c sport route so shouldn't present any issues for a climber capable of getting through the bottom, though Ben Moon famously fell off the top the first time he managed to climb through the boulder problem.

A kneebar on the crux undercut match move was first discovered around 2014 which apparently makes this move slightly easier. It was first successfully used by Mathew Wright on his ascent in 2020. This method has now been used on several successful ascents. So far, ascentionists using the kneebar method have suggested it doesn't significantly alter the overall difficulty with leg length being a crucial factor.

References

[1] https://open.spotify.com/episode/0Cai72J2Sn9BulGmXw7vYE?si=i-sq4M9RShin62B56rWk8A

Contributors
remus
16 contributions since 14th January 2022.
Ted Kingsnorth
1 contribution since 19th April 2022.

Pics + Vids

No pics or vids yet.

Ascents

13 recorded ascents, including 1 unsuccessful ascent.

Climber Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Ben Moon Lead | worked 14th Jun 1990 8c+
First ascent.

The first 9a in the world.

While working the route Ben managed to drop the french 7c upper section after climbing the start, much to the horror those watching. However he came back a few days later and finished the job.

Ben originally gave it a grade of E9+ 7b/8c+.

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/3419096724823145

[2] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/464271993638981

[3] https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.140838060706413/140838637373022
Malcolm Smith Lead | worked 1992
Second ascent.
John Gaskins Lead | worked Sep 1994
Third ascent. 12 sessions.

References

[1] On The Edge 120, page 51.
Steve Dunning Lead | worked Jul 2003
Fourth ascent.

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 131, page 71
Richard Simpson Lead | worked 25th Apr 2005 8c+

In the context of his other claims there is doubt around this ascent, however his belayer Dan Tounley has been contacted (by Chris Doyle) and has confirmed the ascent:

Yes, I can confirm Rich done these routes [Liquid Ambar, Hubble] as I belayed him. Makes me laugh that people are doubting him. I tried to log on to U.K Climbing website when I read about the story but unfortunatly my schools sever wouldn't let me (I am in Thailand). Maybe people will stop doubting him now! Maybe he upset someone, I know he can be an arrogant little twat sometimes!!! [1]

Simon Lee has separately been in touch with Dan to confirm the ascent.

References

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,16602.msg292046.html#msg292046
Steve McClure Lead | worked 30th Jul 2009 8c+ (hard)

Steve's 581st route at 8a or above. [3]

A real milestone, possibly my biggest achievement in climbing, even bigger perhaps than Overshadow. Hubble is special, it's a massive trophy and a world icon with a real history.

Steve on the successful ascent:

On the say I did Hubble I totally didn't expect to do it; I so didn't expect to do it that I didn't even have any quickdrawers in at the top! So hanging on a hold half way up I had to get someone to throw up some quickdraws. [4]

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2009/08/steve_mcclure_-_hubble_f8c+-48867

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d0cq2CZe_40

[3] https://www.instagram.com/p/Czt-_eItyVN/

[4] https://open.spotify.com/episode/1YbEX5LbR0aS1h2oOnrxaf?rYxlKw
Alex Megos Lead | worked 31st May 2016 8c+

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cEHebU6RtG0

[2] https://www.facebook.com/AlexanderMegosSportler/photos/a.428895480583768/730615073745139/?type=3
Will Bosi Lead | worked 25th Oct 2016 9a

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KU_mbM1zdI4
Pete Dawson Lead | worked 13th Aug 2019 9a

References

[1] https://vimeo.com/352458505
Mathew Wright Lead | worked 30th Sep 2020 9a

Matt was the first person to successfully use a kneebar on the route, though he commented that he felt it didn't change the grade for him.

I used the knee pad because it’s obvious. When you do the move on it’s own your knee naturally pushes into the roof, so avoiding it is a little silly in my opinion. The knee bar is actually really bad for the right knee, it’s a knee scum as British people would call it! It didn’t take any weight off my arms, it just slows me down when I release the good left hand pinch to give me a little bit more time to stab my fingers into the blind two-finger pocket in the roof. This move is also very bunched for tall people. [2]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CFxCUI8jHrs/

[2] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/mathew-wright-repeats-hubble-ben-moon-masterpiece-raven-tor.html
Buster Martin Lead | worked 11th Oct 2020 9a (soft)

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M_r7yp_itLM

[2] https://open.spotify.com/episode/3u2BAjPtmo06CTOJMJkq9B?X8UGkQ
Toby Roberts Lead | worked 26th Oct 2021 9a
3 sessions.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CVgFH4PoCoT/

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/CViuQMuoT-3/
Adam Ondra Lead | did not finish 9a