Hubble | 9a Sport route at Raven Tor

First ascent.

The first 9a in the world.

While working the route Ben managed to drop the french 7c upper section after climbing the start, much to the horror those watching. However he came back a few days later and finished the job.

Ben originally gave it a grade of E9+ 7b/8c+.

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/3419096724823145

[2] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/464271993638981

[3] https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.140838060706413/140838637373022

Second ascent.

Third ascent. 12 sessions.

References

[1] On The Edge 120, page 51.

Fourth ascent.

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 131, page 71

In the context of his other claims there is doubt around this ascent, however his belayer Dan Tounley has been contacted (by Chris Doyle) and has confirmed the ascent:

Yes, I can confirm Rich done these routes [Liquid Ambar, Hubble] as I belayed him. Makes me laugh that people are doubting him. I tried to log on to U.K Climbing website when I read about the story but unfortunatly my schools sever wouldn't let me (I am in Thailand). Maybe people will stop doubting him now! Maybe he upset someone, I know he can be an arrogant little twat sometimes!!! [1]

Simon Lee has separately been in touch with Dan to confirm the ascent.

References

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,16602.msg292046.html#msg292046

Steve's 581st route at 8a or above. [3]

A real milestone, possibly my biggest achievement in climbing, even bigger perhaps than Overshadow. Hubble is special, it's a massive trophy and a world icon with a real history.

Steve on the successful ascent:

On the say I did Hubble I totally didn't expect to do it; I so didn't expect to do it that I didn't even have any quickdrawers in at the top! So hanging on a hold half way up I had to get someone to throw up some quickdraws. [4]

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2009/08/steve_mcclure_-_hubble_f8c+-48867

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d0cq2CZe_40

[3] https://www.instagram.com/p/Czt-_eItyVN/

[4] https://open.spotify.com/episode/1YbEX5LbR0aS1h2oOnrxaf?rYxlKw

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cEHebU6RtG0

[2] https://www.facebook.com/AlexanderMegosSportler/photos/a.428895480583768/730615073745139/?type=3

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KU_mbM1zdI4

References

[1] https://vimeo.com/352458505

Matt was the first person to successfully use a kneebar on the route, though he commented that he felt it didn't change the grade for him.

I used the knee pad because it’s obvious. When you do the move on it’s own your knee naturally pushes into the roof, so avoiding it is a little silly in my opinion. The knee bar is actually really bad for the right knee, it’s a knee scum as British people would call it! It didn’t take any weight off my arms, it just slows me down when I release the good left hand pinch to give me a little bit more time to stab my fingers into the blind two-finger pocket in the roof. This move is also very bunched for tall people. [2]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CFxCUI8jHrs/

[2] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/mathew-wright-repeats-hubble-ben-moon-masterpiece-raven-tor.html

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M_r7yp_itLM

[2] https://open.spotify.com/episode/3u2BAjPtmo06CTOJMJkq9B?X8UGkQ

3 sessions.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CVgFH4PoCoT/

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/CViuQMuoT-3/